You're very welcome. Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment. Take care.

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. The pads on a flight controller are used to transfer electricity in one way or another. Some are meant specifically for power delivery, while others are intended for information delivery via electrical signaling. Information sent down wires from a receiver or GPS unit to a UART is sent using encoded electrical signals.

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. At the start, the geese seemed OK, but as soon as the small group lifted off the water, I pulled back over land, dropped down and away from the birds. I didn't want to startle them, and certainly didn't want to fly with them in the air too. That is also why I left the geese and went over to the field. I always try to keep a respectful & safe distance from wildlife/animals when I fly. They don't need me harassing them. The drone was a 6" tbs source one v3, home built freestyle quad.

Thanks for the comment. I guess it was kinda. I'm still working on gaps and tight spaces. Takes stick time and a willingness to try.

Yep. It was a nice flock. The noise of their honking was really loud too.

You are very welcome. I'm glad the video helped you. Thank you for your kind comments. I appreciate them.

Thank you. I appreciate you taking time to watch and leave a comment. Take care.

Gotta love it!!! Thanks for commenting.

Love the video with the drone and the bacon 🥓 thank you.

Thank you for watching and leaving a comment.

Thank you for taking the time to watch. I'm glad that you found it helpful.

Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. I'm happy to hear it is helpful for you.

Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave a comment. Lipo and Li-ion are very different in their lifespan for sure. As for lipo's 'sucking'...they simply have different uses than li-ion. For example, I've never seen a 300 mah li-ion cell that weighs 7grams and puts out 15 amps like the lipos used on tiny whoop drones. You also don't see li-ion cells in any modern smart phone. You see tons of Li-ion cells in power tools, yard equipment, scooters and such where the cells may get banged around. They just have different use cases that each is best at. I don't have the skills/wish to try to disassemble a Li-ion cell. I wouldn't recommend anyone do it without being VERY sure of what they are getting into and knowing the safety precautions they need to take first.

Thanks for the kind comment and taking the time to watch. Have a great day.

Hi, Thanks for taking the time to watch and ask the question. I'm sorry I didn't make that more clear in the video. "Lipo" is a short form for Lithium Polymer. It is another type of lithium cell. Instead of a steel can of a standard size, they are made out of foil pouches. They vary in size from cell phone batteries to massive one used to power city busses. Smaller lipos are very commonly used in the RC hobby world because they can provide very large amounts of power for their size/weight in very short time periods. Hope this makes it more clear. Eric

@@blueskyfpv Thanks, I'll go back and watch it again.

I'm happy you were able to enjoy the video. I put this stuff out to help people with their drone questions, I hope it did that for you. Thank you for the grammar tips. Cheers. Eric

This video is exceptional in all respects. First learn how to spell "grammer" before you pick on others - grammar NOT grammer. Whatever you are rattling about I do not understand. This video is absolutely great in content and presentation. I truly appreciate blueskyfpv!

Thanks again for taking the time to leave a comment. All the best.

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. It is -24c for me today too. Its too cold to fly, so I posted a bit of summer. Glad you liked it.

Thanks for the comments and for watching. The fpv feed was pretty bad at times - I know I trimmed quite a few branches. I was there, I had a quad, so I had to try. It was way more open than the normal forest in the area!

You're very welcome. I'm glad that it was helpful.

Thanks for watching and the question. Nope, I didn't water proof it, but a thin layer of conformal on the FC and back of camera would be a good idea. Usually if it drops in the snow, I just blow off the loose snow, whack it gently against my leg a couple of times to get anything out from the canopy, and let it dry out (or not). The snow and air are cold enough it doesn't melt very much. Also, if the temp is anything under -5c or so, whoop batteries die very fast. Because we average -20c for most of the winter around here, I don't really fly whoops outside that much, so I don't bother with conformal on my whoops. If I was flying in snow daily, or anywhere with lots of moisture (wet lawn), I'd put conformal on.

You're welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for leaving the comment.

Hey thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I use e6000 for many things. It's strong, light and stays stuck.

It is a little scary flying around up there, especially in places I don't know so well, or where I know I can't get the quad/wing back if it crashes. It is a place to spend time. Where you at in MB? I spent 12 years or so in Winnipeg.

Thanks for watching and leaving comments.

Thanks for the comment and the frame. I really like it. It was an easy build, tunes nicely, flies great, and I can't break it! Perfect combination for me!

Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave a comment. Very sorry to hear about that crash and its outcome. I know I would far prefer to drop another 10 quads in a lake than hit a person even once. Safe flying.

Thanks for taking time to watch and leave a comment. I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Thanks for leaving a comment. Glad that you were able to get a working cable. I hide the ones I know work so that my family doesn't take them. Happy flying.

Thanks for watching and asking some questions. I would choose the v4 today. There was a small issue with v3 that has been fixed in v4. This FC can use 2 different firmwares (betaflight and iNav). All firmwares use a separate app to flash and configure the firmware. Betaflight configurator (github.com/betaflight/betaflight-configurator/releases) or inav configurator (github.com/iNavFlight/inav-configurator/releases). Betaflight also has an online configurator (app.betaflight.com/) that works the same as the standalone configurator. If you are just starting or coming back, I'd suggest sticking to Betaflight. It is more popular and so there is a lot more information and help available. iNav is very good, just not as popular, so there is a bit less help/info available. Hope this helps. Ask more if you need. Eric

Hi, Thanks for watching the video and taking time to add your valuable comment. I didn't go into specifics about any board really; I was mostly trying to give an overall general idea of how flight controllers work. Knowing max input voltage for the flight controller is essential so you can have right battery voltage, or power it from an external BEC. Thanks for pointing out that there are many other sensors that could be added to the SDA/SCL pads - proximity sensors, lidar, speed sensors (pitot tubes) and others for sure. RSSI means Raw Signal Strength Indicator. It is a measure of the strength of a RECIEVED radio signal at the aircraft. It is essential know this information because it shows how much range you have left before you lose radio signal to your craft. RSSI information is essential to safe flying, but the RSSI pad is not as common to use today as 4 years ago. It is used to provide RSSI feedback for radio systems that don't do telemetry natively, for example older Flysky, FrSky and others. The setup isn't very simple. However, if you fly a newer radio system (crossfire, ELRS, ghost...) the RSSI pad isn't used because all RSSI information is sent automatically with other telemetry data. Its very simple to setup. The Cur pad is used to provide current measurements from ESC's. This information allows us to manage battery use during flights. The Cur pad is also a hold over from older ESC/Flight controller systems. It is less commonly used today in quadcopters because digital bi-directional ESC protocols like Dshot can provide that information, and so no extra wiring is needed. The Dshot protocol is most commonly used with FPV quad copters, and is much less common with other RC aircraft, boats, cars etc. This means that if you are using an esc protocol (eg. PWM / Oneshot) or firmware (eg. Blheli_S ) that doesn't support bidirectional telemetry you will need to use the cur pad to get proper ESC current readings. Safe flying Eric

@@blueskyfpv Thank you for replying. Your explanation was so detailed and clear that it solved some problems for me. I am just soldering up my first drone (my own single motor design, basically an airplane with no tail or wings). Have never even flown before. I was unsure if RSSI and the current pad were necessary, but thank you for clearing that up. 5 years ago I did not even know how to wire an LED, but youtube is very useful.

@@Willy_Tepes Glad I could help. Your project sounds interesting. Good luck with it.

Yep. I should. Thanks for pointing that out.

Thanks for the comment. I'm glad it helped you out. Happy flying.

Thank you for the kind comment. I'm happy that you found it useful.

Hi, Thanks for watching the video. Sorry to hear you're having some trouble. Grinding motors on the desk after an esc updates often means the esc and motor aren't talking to each other properly. I can't say for sure why this is happening, but there are several things I would check and try. Check and then change/try these things one at a time. With the esc flashing1) make sure that you are using the correct firmware for your ESC (it will be a code like 0-H-5 or A-J-2). Usually esc-configurator.com selects it automatically and correctly. It is the same code for bluejay and blheli_S. Also use the newest version of bluejay (currently 0.21) 2) use 24 khz PWM frequency; sometimes higher pwm frequencies cause issues. 3) After flashing, check the start-up power setting in the esc-configurator and raise it slightly to 1050 or 1100. In Betaflight you can check a few things also. On the Motors Tab, if you are using bi-directional dshot, make sure it is turned on. The next are very unlikely to cause the issue, but make sure your motor protocol is dshot300 (f4 processor) or 600 (f7 processor) 3) make sure you have the number of poles is set correctly (but these do not change from blheli_s, so they should work for bluejay too). I hope this helps you solve the problem. Let me know what happens. Take care, Eric

@@blueskyfpv ha. Got it, thanks. It was the start-up power in the esc configurator. Not sure why, but the default values were way too low. Thanks a lot. Have a great day.

@@guytas Awesome. Happy flying.

Thank you very much for taking the time to leave a comment. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Have a great day, and happy flying.

Yes, you can. As close to the center line is usually best, but you could use the side compartments if it fits

Thanks for the question. My answer assumes you are using ExpressLRS as your control link. I'm also assuming that it is built into the flight controller (like on a mobula 6). In betaflight you need to be on the 'receiver' tab. Make sure the receiver is set to SPI-RX and the receiver provider is set to CRSF (or EXPRESSLRS in betaflight 4.5+). Save and reboot. Go back to receiver tab, there will now be a place for you to enter your ELRS binding phrase, and there is also a new BIND button at the bottom right corner. If you use a binding phrase, just enter it and then save and reboot. Turn on your radio and it should bind automatically. If you don't use an ELRS bind phrase, it is a little different. Go the the ELRS lua script on your radio and scroll down to the bind option (on your radio). Then push the bind button on your radio and in betaflight at the same time. They should bind. Hope this helps you out.

Thank you. I'm happy it was helpful for you.

They are a lot of fun. I've recently switched to 1002 motors @ 23,000 kv and 45mm props (on 75mm ductless carbon frame). Way more power than 0802 motors I had been using. It is a great backyard ripper. Still love flying my mob7 too. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Happy whooping.

You're welcome. Glad you found it useful.

Hi. Thanks for watching the video and leaving a comment/question. I have two temperature controlled irons, and I typically keep them both at 750f. It really helps to have a larger chisel style tip on the iron, especially if you are using 12 gauge wire. Negative pads also always take more heat. I almost always do 3 steps: 1) heat pad and tin well (or simply reflow solder if already tinned). Then, #2 right away heat wire to fully tin (or simply reflow solder in wire if already tinned). Lastly, #3, and again right away, reheat pad and merge to melt both together. Flux is your friend with this too, and so are cross-locking tweezers. Hope this helps a bit. Eric

Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks

Thank you for the very kind comment. I am glad you found it useful. All the best to you.

Hi. I'm glad you found the video helpful. I can try to help with your questions about solar panels/18650s. A few years ago I recycled close to 5000 used laptop batteries by hand to extract the good 18650's from them. I used 1000's of individual cells to make 48v battery systems for the panels and other power packs. Its a lot of work! Since it is a bit off topic from the channel, send me an email; I should be able to give you some basic guidance.

Glad you found the video helpful. The wing was designed before '4-wire' receivers were common. Basically what you need to do is put the ELRS receiver in the far compartment and use one of the 3 wire plugs as the Power, Transmit, Receive. From the flight controller, just run power and the 2 UART connections through the 3-pin plug and out to the receiver and connect as normal (keep track which wire is transmit and which is receive). You then use another single wire to connect the ground from the ELRS receiver to the ground on the OTHER plug (or other nearby peripheral like the servo). The other 3-pin MUST be grounded out on the flight controller for this to work. Hope this helps.

@@blueskyfpv thanks a lot for your time! greetings from Argentina!