Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave a comment. Very sorry to hear about that crash and its outcome. I know I would far prefer to drop another 10 quads in a lake than hit a person even once. Safe flying.

Thanks for taking time to watch and leave a comment. I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Thanks for leaving a comment. Glad that you were able to get a working cable. I hide the ones I know work so that my family doesn't take them. Happy flying.

Thanks for watching and asking some questions. I would choose the v4 today. There was a small issue with v3 that has been fixed in v4. This FC can use 2 different firmwares (betaflight and iNav). All firmwares use a separate app to flash and configure the firmware. Betaflight configurator (github.com/betaflight/betaflight-configurator/releases) or inav configurator (github.com/iNavFlight/inav-configurator/releases). Betaflight also has an online configurator (app.betaflight.com/) that works the same as the standalone configurator. If you are just starting or coming back, I'd suggest sticking to Betaflight. It is more popular and so there is a lot more information and help available. iNav is very good, just not as popular, so there is a bit less help/info available. Hope this helps. Ask more if you need. Eric

Hi, Thanks for watching the video and taking time to add your valuable comment. I didn't go into specifics about any board really; I was mostly trying to give an overall general idea of how flight controllers work. Knowing max input voltage for the flight controller is essential so you can have right battery voltage, or power it from an external BEC. Thanks for pointing out that there are many other sensors that could be added to the SDA/SCL pads - proximity sensors, lidar, speed sensors (pitot tubes) and others for sure. RSSI means Raw Signal Strength Indicator. It is a measure of the strength of a RECIEVED radio signal at the aircraft. It is essential know this information because it shows how much range you have left before you lose radio signal to your craft. RSSI information is essential to safe flying, but the RSSI pad is not as common to use today as 4 years ago. It is used to provide RSSI feedback for radio systems that don't do telemetry natively, for example older Flysky, FrSky and others. The setup isn't very simple. However, if you fly a newer radio system (crossfire, ELRS, ghost...) the RSSI pad isn't used because all RSSI information is sent automatically with other telemetry data. Its very simple to setup. The Cur pad is used to provide current measurements from ESC's. This information allows us to manage battery use during flights. The Cur pad is also a hold over from older ESC/Flight controller systems. It is less commonly used today in quadcopters because digital bi-directional ESC protocols like Dshot can provide that information, and so no extra wiring is needed. The Dshot protocol is most commonly used with FPV quad copters, and is much less common with other RC aircraft, boats, cars etc. This means that if you are using an esc protocol (eg. PWM / Oneshot) or firmware (eg. Blheli_S ) that doesn't support bidirectional telemetry you will need to use the cur pad to get proper ESC current readings. Safe flying Eric

@@blueskyfpv Thank you for replying. Your explanation was so detailed and clear that it solved some problems for me. I am just soldering up my first drone (my own single motor design, basically an airplane with no tail or wings). Have never even flown before. I was unsure if RSSI and the current pad were necessary, but thank you for clearing that up. 5 years ago I did not even know how to wire an LED, but youtube is very useful.

@@Willy_Tepes Glad I could help. Your project sounds interesting. Good luck with it.

Yep. I should. Thanks for pointing that out.

Thanks for the comment. I'm glad it helped you out. Happy flying.

Thank you for the kind comment. I'm happy that you found it useful.

Hi, Thanks for watching the video. Sorry to hear you're having some trouble. Grinding motors on the desk after an esc updates often means the esc and motor aren't talking to each other properly. I can't say for sure why this is happening, but there are several things I would check and try. Check and then change/try these things one at a time. With the esc flashing1) make sure that you are using the correct firmware for your ESC (it will be a code like 0-H-5 or A-J-2). Usually esc-configurator.com selects it automatically and correctly. It is the same code for bluejay and blheli_S. Also use the newest version of bluejay (currently 0.21) 2) use 24 khz PWM frequency; sometimes higher pwm frequencies cause issues. 3) After flashing, check the start-up power setting in the esc-configurator and raise it slightly to 1050 or 1100. In Betaflight you can check a few things also. On the Motors Tab, if you are using bi-directional dshot, make sure it is turned on. The next are very unlikely to cause the issue, but make sure your motor protocol is dshot300 (f4 processor) or 600 (f7 processor) 3) make sure you have the number of poles is set correctly (but these do not change from blheli_s, so they should work for bluejay too). I hope this helps you solve the problem. Let me know what happens. Take care, Eric

@@blueskyfpv ha. Got it, thanks. It was the start-up power in the esc configurator. Not sure why, but the default values were way too low. Thanks a lot. Have a great day.

@@guytas Awesome. Happy flying.

Thank you very much for taking the time to leave a comment. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Have a great day, and happy flying.

Hi, thanks for the question. I am not familiar with the xt60i connector. A little bit of research seems to show that it is mostly used in solar panel installations. The little tabs allow for more current flow than a normal xt60. I have never used one, so I don't want to give you incorrect advice on soldering them; however, I don't think the tabs get soldered together, all pictures I have seen show that you simply solder them as you would a normal xt-60. The little tabs provide an extra contact surface, and from what I can tell from photos they are already connected inside the plug. In the RC world I have never seen xt60i connectors, but I can't see a reason they wouldn't work. I hope this gives you a bit of help. Eric

Yes, you can. As close to the center line is usually best, but you could use the side compartments if it fits

Thanks for the question. My answer assumes you are using ExpressLRS as your control link. I'm also assuming that it is built into the flight controller (like on a mobula 6). In betaflight you need to be on the 'receiver' tab. Make sure the receiver is set to SPI-RX and the receiver provider is set to CRSF (or EXPRESSLRS in betaflight 4.5+). Save and reboot. Go back to receiver tab, there will now be a place for you to enter your ELRS binding phrase, and there is also a new BIND button at the bottom right corner. If you use a binding phrase, just enter it and then save and reboot. Turn on your radio and it should bind automatically. If you don't use an ELRS bind phrase, it is a little different. Go the the ELRS lua script on your radio and scroll down to the bind option (on your radio). Then push the bind button on your radio and in betaflight at the same time. They should bind. Hope this helps you out.

Thank you. I'm happy it was helpful for you.

They are a lot of fun. I've recently switched to 1002 motors @ 23,000 kv and 45mm props (on 75mm ductless carbon frame). Way more power than 0802 motors I had been using. It is a great backyard ripper. Still love flying my mob7 too. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Happy whooping.

You're welcome. Glad you found it useful.

Hi. Thanks for watching the video and leaving a comment/question. I have two temperature controlled irons, and I typically keep them both at 750f. It really helps to have a larger chisel style tip on the iron, especially if you are using 12 gauge wire. Negative pads also always take more heat. I almost always do 3 steps: 1) heat pad and tin well (or simply reflow solder if already tinned). Then, #2 right away heat wire to fully tin (or simply reflow solder in wire if already tinned). Lastly, #3, and again right away, reheat pad and merge to melt both together. Flux is your friend with this too, and so are cross-locking tweezers. Hope this helps a bit. Eric

Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks

Thank you for the very kind comment. I am glad you found it useful. All the best to you.

Hi. I'm glad you found the video helpful. I can try to help with your questions about solar panels/18650s. A few years ago I recycled close to 5000 used laptop batteries by hand to extract the good 18650's from them. I used 1000's of individual cells to make 48v battery systems for the panels and other power packs. Its a lot of work! Since it is a bit off topic from the channel, send me an email; I should be able to give you some basic guidance.

Glad you found the video helpful. The wing was designed before '4-wire' receivers were common. Basically what you need to do is put the ELRS receiver in the far compartment and use one of the 3 wire plugs as the Power, Transmit, Receive. From the flight controller, just run power and the 2 UART connections through the 3-pin plug and out to the receiver and connect as normal (keep track which wire is transmit and which is receive). You then use another single wire to connect the ground from the ELRS receiver to the ground on the OTHER plug (or other nearby peripheral like the servo). The other 3-pin MUST be grounded out on the flight controller for this to work. Hope this helps.

@@blueskyfpv thanks a lot for your time! greetings from Argentina!

Thanks for the kind words, and I'm glad you're finding it helpful. I'm not sure about "how it happens on the sim", but the INav autolaunch system is an amazing feature. You don't need to throw the plane over your head like I do with this wing. I just feel more comfortable launching it that way. Many people use a side arm toss to keep hands away from the propeller. The autolaunch system just takes over and makes sure that the plane levels out to a controlled flight position and then climbs. Of course you can always launch in full manual mode which completely bypasses the flight controller and is essentially the same as flying with a receiver and servos only. I fly in manual mode a lot, but I'm not good enough to launch in it. I hope this helps out a bit.

No problem. Thanks for leaving the feedback, I'm glad it was helpful for you. Happy flying.

If you are having 2 separate 2s packs that you join with a parallel connector, then you'd balance them separately as individual 2s packs. If you want 1 pack that is 2s2p, it should end up balancing exactly the same as a single 2s pack. First, you make 2 'cells' that are 2p (join positive to positive and negative to negative), and then you solder them into a 2s pack (solder the positive end of 1 of the 2p cells to the negative of the other 2p cell.). You then just add balance connectors as if it is a 2s pack. Be sure to use cells that are designed for high amp draw, very few 18650 cells manage more than 25 amps continuous draw, some 21700 cells can manage 40-45 amps. Molicel and Samsung are among the best. Pulling high current from li-ion cells that are not designed for it is DANGEROUS (think exploding cells)! I hope that makes some sense.

Hi. If you are using a proper battery charger for lipo batteries, the charger will stop charging after the battery is full.

Hi, thanks for taking the time to ask a question. You can absolutely use this flight controller without a GPS, I have it on several quads without. GPS is only ever needed for automatic navigation modes/rescue modes. The FC will also work 100% perfectly without any video system. To fly LOS, a flight controller only needs to have a standard IMU (accelerometer/gyro), and all flight controllers have those. I have almost zero LOS experience with quads, but if you're just starting LOS, I'd suggest using an autolevel mode (angle or horizon) and looking into 'head free" or "headless" modes in Betaflight (if that is what you'll use). As you get comfortable, you can make a switch to full acro if you want. If you've never seen, QuadMovr (www.youtube.com/@quadmovr/videos) has wicked LOS skills and quads. Good luck, flying LOS freestyle is a top end challenge.

Thanks. Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks for the question. I have been using HQ 7037 and 7040 tri blades. The 7037's have been working well for me, good speed, handling and decent flight times (5 - 7 minutes hard flying with 2200 6s). You would get a bit more cruising time with bi blades, but lose a bit of thrust and grip in turns, but if you are mostly cruising and light freestyle they'd be just fine. I can't recommend any specific bi blades (I don't use them), but you could try HQ Durable 7x4.5x2 or Gemfan Flash 7042. Hope this helps a bit.

Hiya, thanks for the comment and question. You could use either the 9v or vbat. In fact, I swapped the Speedybee vtx for a Mamba 1W last week and made the exact change you're asking about. I used use the 9v pad. Many analog VTXs actually only use 5v internally and use a buck converter (step down converter) to manage higher input voltages. You get a bit more heat and power loss if it is converting 6s from vbat. vs. 9v. The 9v is intended for DJI, but works for anything else as a power source too. Hope this helps you out. Eric

@@blueskyfpv Thx. Your effort is highly appreciated🙏

Glad it helped you out, and thanks for letting me know.

Thanks for leaving the question. I don't own a Speedybee f405 wing flight controller, however, the two things I would try first are: 1) a different USB cable, because it is easy and then 2) Use the boot button to enter DFU mode, and then go to the flash page in the configurator and flash. For the Speedybee f405 wing, the boot button is on the small extension board where you plug in the USB cable. Simply hold the boot button down as you plug in the USB cable. If that doesn't work, I'm sorry, but you'll need to search a bit more online.

Thanks very much. Glad you found it helpful.

Hi Klaus. Thank you for the kind comments and watching/using my videos. Good luck with the wings and have fun flying them.

Thank you for the kind comment.

Very glad you found it interesting. I appreciate the kind feedback.

Glad that it was helpful. I appreciate the feedback..

I appreciate the feedback on the videos, and I'm glad they are clear. I was pretty nervous setting up my first quadcopter too. Looking back on it, it was a bit of a mess - but it flew and I learned a TON. If you are patient and take things slowly, you should have very few problems. Matek makes good quality gear, so you're ahead of the game there. Take a look at some of my other videos, and don't be shy to ask questions. I always try to help out as best I can. Happy flying.

Glad it was helpful! I appreciate the feedback.

Maybe a spot of conductive grease as well, eh ?

Yes, they are small neodymium magnets. I've used them like this a few times when I've needed a really quick source of power to test something or to demonstrate a concept (like this video). You still need to use a proper conductor between the batteries, the magnets just hold things in place. Without some better engineering to make sure nothing moves, I don't think it is a safe thing to do for any situation other sitting on a desk and not moving. But for quick, on the desk 3 - 4 volts/low amps, its helpful.

Hey Andrew, thanks for leaving the comment. I'm glad that the video was helpful for you. Good luck with the build you're doing.

Hi thanks for the comment and questions. Raspberry Pi are great little boards to work with, but they are much more general in purpose. The boards in this video are designed for one primary purpose - remote flight control. These boards are most commonly used on quadcopters and slightly different variations are used on rc airplanes (mostly it is pin layout). They have standard UART control, so it is possible to connect components to them (GPS, RC receivers, video transmitters, etc.) As you saw in the video, there are other connector types as well (I2C being one) as well as multiple voltages available for external components. The most commonly used opensource flight software for quadcopters is Betaflight. It is designed more for free flight and racing. If you are interested in more programmable flight (return to home, position hold, waypoint missions...) then INav is the firmware you'd be looking at. They are close cousins; they just focus on different flight styles. Betaflight is only designed for "XXcopters" (tri, quad, hexa, octo); however, INav is designed for both copters and fixed wing aircraft.

Glad it was helpful! I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I tried to translate German to English, but the translation wasn't very clear. I think your comment was that to understand this video, you need to watch the other videos too. I can't disagree with that. The videos were as a series so each video isn't always perfect as a solo video. Making the wing and the videos was a great learning experience for me - I've still got tons more to learn. Happy flying.

@@blueskyfpvYES..and sorry .. but..for example ..don't tell people about RTH_Options to prefer "at least" ..cause first ..from that height it's activated, you will climb or descend by the value you have set as RTH altitude..Take "FIXED" and IT goes straight to the RTHaltitude and : "don't climb before returning" otherwise you will initially fly a mostly pointless round that will not improve your battery charge..and the same goes for other explanations in the video.. so sorry .. don't worry

Thanks for the extra feedback and information. If I made mistakes, or there are better ways to do something, I appreciate learning about it.

You're welcome. Thanks for watching and taking the time to drop a comment.

Gotta love bad instructions ... glad you got it sorted out. How is the frame other than that?

@@blueskyfpv I think it’s good, but being a newbie, I’m not sure any weight should be put on that :) I’ve been thrown off a little by the need to flip my ESC. The stack came with a short FC connector, and a long one (in case you have to flip it). I’m not sure if I should route the fc/esc connecting wires between the FC and ESC , or under the whole stack. I’m sure this is pretty basic for everyone else, but for me, I’m not 100% sure and I’ve stopped the build :)

For routing the ESC/FC connector wire, it won't really matter if you go under or through the stack. You just want it out of the way of other wires/connectors and not stretched tight. See if one way interferes with where other wires need to go. You can use a bit of double sided tape to hold it down if you need to. Also, because you flipped the ESC, you will need to do a few changes on the MOTORS tab inside Betaflight to set the correct motor outputs.

Glad to hear the videos were helpful. Good luck with the quad.