Top tip: put a razor blade between the next pin and the one you are soldering to stop the solder bridging the gap, great video.

Nice and straight forward

Great video, got the dread display issue on my 07 civic! Wondering if you’d be able to assist? Obviously pay for your time

Well done showing everything that needs to get done. Great vid!!

Wow and you did all that with one hand amazing job thanks bro.

Will this issue fix my temperature guage? My mr2 91 2.2l 5-speed m/t, temperature gauge is not working

How did you remove the old material from the engine block? I looked up all parts but could not find one where you clean the old gasket left overs from the cylinder block Did you plug the oil pasages when scraping it off?

Did you take the head to a machine shop to skim the head? And is the leaking hg fixed after this?

Anyone watching this in 2024, don't put the grease in the boot. Just in the cv joint.

While you're at it I suggest doing the half circle rubber gasket and metal flat gasket under the cam chain tensioner. Only requires the tensioner release tool they're around $15 online.

I did this and it worked. But the next day it went back to how it was. Any ideas what i did wrong?

Temporary fix a stretch boot fitted with shaft and joint still on the vehicle is a much more permanent solution.

Do you know what the reservoir behind that is?

How much DOT-4 fluid did you use to complete this job mate?

Inside diameter of the bleeding tube?

Can you get these in the U.S. ????

Bad description, how do you disconnect the injectors. There is no place for the Hand.

How many bar in ct26?

Ive done alot of split boots from different companies..They can hold up well but the Single Most Vital point is that the boot be kept Immaculate while slipping it over the axle and attempting the glue bond...One greasey finger touching the seam or the cv boot being slid over a greasy axle, those things will cause early failure and a weak bond in the affected area.. it may Seem to have bonded ok but a few months later, that spot will start to leak and let go...its happenned to me enough, thats for sure! areas of the bonded seam that were grease free, literally fused together...very strong...Never bring the unglued boot anywhere near the axle grease end untill the seam has bonded and cured!...Recommend covering the axle end that has the grease in it with plastic saran wrap and do same with the axle itself.. that way, if the boot touches any of these areas, no grease will contiminate it...not rocket science, just patience and hospital level cleanliness and the project will last as long as a normal cv boot...

Nice video. I had used a different split cv boot from UK (Bailcast CVS18 Universal Split Constant Velocity Gaiter) and it seems to be working well. Should use nitrile gloves as that black rubber cement is a f*cking pain in the a$$ to get off your hands. And yes you are right it will stick your fingers to whatever when it starts drying. lol. Much easier and cheaper than pulling out the axle. The small end of the split cv boot is the hardest which is why I started there and put cement at the flat and first elbow part holding it together till it set and held. Then I did another elbow/ridge area section holding till it set until I was at the end of the boot. I had extra rubber cement left and ran a bead all along the seam to ensure no leaks if any part of it should separate. The kit I got included pinch style clamps and although I didn't have the pinch clamp tool I somehow managed to the get large clamp tight enough. Will probably get the pinch clamp tool and re-tighten the large clamp. Could NOT get the small pinch style clamp on properly so I simply used a small stainless steel hose clamp which worked perfectly. Job done 10-15-2023 and holding up so far. Time will tell.

First video where you actually zoom in on where you have to solder thank you gonna give it a go today

he got the bottom 10m nut like it was magic. if the nut gets stripped.....RIP

That's how you do it after you've done it. It's actually much harder first time round

Deseo.comprar..Para ford focus zx3 2001

Nice. I kinda want this now, but probably not the hassle of wiring them up on a USDM MR2.

Empty reservoir first and wipe it out ,fill with clean fluid then bleed like you shown otherwise all the crap is still inside the reservoir.

That thing is gross

Hi mate sorry to ask a few questions but…. 1 - was this done alone or is it a two person job? 2 - You’re saying stick pipe on suck it slightly with nipple open to start it flowing? Or just let it naturally come out? 3 - what is the purpose of fluid in the bottle on floor to start with initially? Thanks.

Thank you so much for this, had an overheat issue and like this car the thermo was rusty - replaced it, flushed and bled the system and no more problem. Life saver!

How? Where? Links??

If only u lived local id av asked u to sort mine mate!

Where did you jack the engine up from please???

Does this type of honda have a power steering fluid spot ?

Did you like the ride quality of the kyb exel-g? And is it better than oem ride quality or just as good?

Hello! Does the same notion apply here to the brakes too?

Brilliant little info vid showing how to get it done without the “KZbinr” nonsense that some of the others do. Will get mine done when the weather picks up.

the bleeding was only due to gravity!! or pump the clutch pedal???

Can do an MX-5 roof about 3 times in that long.

Hi. My filter black top snapped where can I get a new one for ford Kuga 2019

Can you do a video on the rear window weasher on a Ford Focus.

Hi Newbie Mechanic, any update on your installed Hippo Red CV boot, still working fine? I am looking to use this CV boot after seeing your video. Thanks.

…as you said don’t let the level drop to minimum as you will get air in system, oops too late , ahhh did not notice it !!! so I’ve topped it up with clutch fluid and pumped the clutch pedal and tried gears and drove it up and down the street ok. Left car parked few days thinking everything was ok and now it won’t go into any gears at all when the engine is running however they do change smoothly when engine is switched off however the clutch pedal is dead ie right down to floor and very very loose. Help , does the need master or slave cylinder bleeding or do you reckon the clutch is shot, any advice would be appreciated btw I’ve got the Honda civic mk8.

that's quick. only downside is that you actually have to drive that POS

атлича

How long did these new split boots last on your MR2?

Do you not put air in the system and do you have the blue pip in old fluid before you start?

Brillaint vid, need to get this done asap. Is the top filter and motor for the rear washer?

where can i buy one similar to this

Thinking of getting one for my build, but confused, when I buy the dash then buy the sensors for it such as water temp oil temp do I need a data logger to display these or is that part of the package ?

Thanks to your video I managed to fix the problem with my 2016 Kuga. I only had the one filter on mine but it was completely clogged with an algae like substance. Needed hose jet to clean it properly and then flushed the whole system with 10 litres of water to remove all the residue. Now have a clean windscreen on demand. Very many thanks for this.