Ricky. Yes, you should always check the o2 sensors. Most of the time it’s the Cats that have degraded over time. As these cars tend to have higher mileage now. To confirm and condemn this for sure if you have a laptop with techstream or a good scan tool. Monitor and graph the response of your o2 sensors signals/waveforms live data. Compare the upstream and downstream pre and post sensors. On both sides of the cats. You can see what known good readings are on bank 1 and compare it with the values on bank 2. This will tell you whether the catalytic converter is actually operating correctly (efficiently) you should see this on the data list if the o2 are responding. There are a few other variables you can check that can be causing your p0430 codes. But the first is to check for exhaust leaks, second the o2 waveforms, last the cats. These cats are expensive a p0430 is on the bank 2 side. And p0420 is on the bank 1 side. If you want to rule out the o2 sensors. If the catalyst is functioning normally, the waveform of the oxygen sensor after the catalyst switches back and forth between rich and lean much more slowly than the waveform of the oxygen sensor before the cat. If both waveform change at a similar rate, it indicates that catalyst performance has deteriorated. If you have a known good o2 sensor you can swap one in before replacing it and recheck the values on the data list. It won’t hurt before purchasing. Take caution when removing the o2 sensors they can be tricky and strip out the threads leaving you to either retap or buy brand new sensors and cat assembly. Sometimes the original o2 sensors can be brutal to remove and almost easier just to replace if the threads rust inside the cats. It can be a disaster repair. Just some advice. Do your fair diligence diagnosing the voltages the o2s read so you have an idea of the sensors are dying, slow to respond, or at the thresholds of operation.

Haha I see how it can be a waste of time this was shot many years ago for my reference. I was no way intending on showing how to repair it. It was for my benefit and letting people know it’s a common issue on these models back then. I was showing the owner how most of these models over time have bulbs that will the burn out. You can remove the combo meter and replace the bulbs. Since the indicators use bulbs back then and the drive light commonly burns out you can swap the L gear position into the D since it is hardly used. Or just replace the bulb completely.

Leak no longer exist. If you like this video please subscribe. Thanks

Test the connection before replacing. Jump it it will force it on. It could have other issues. If you like this video please hit the like and subscribe. Thanks

They tend to do that as they age when they clog. If you like this content please hit the line and subscribe thanks.

@@RJayStyle will gutting the cats also help to instead of just buying new ones

@@coolex8852 Gutting it will allow it to flow freely but the o2 sensors will recognize the signals look the same and cause the check engine light to still set the codes. The o2 sensors when working properly change voltages. The ecu uses the rear o2 sensors just to monitor the fronts o2 signals. A good working cat switches the o2 signals when air flows through them. Once the air reaches the secondary rear sensors. The o2 sensors on a good working car will slow down the signal. If the o2 sees both signals are the same and look identical the 420-430 catalyst below threshold codes illuminate the check engine light. Some people put spacers at the secondary sensors to trick them. But it is illegal in CA it’s considered tampering with an emissions control device. Gutting the cats will allow you to accelerate but it will stink and the check engine light will still stay on. Other states laws may differ and you may be able to get away with it just to drive it around. Our state requires a California legal Catalytic Converter, Carb exemption #, and emission control devices that meet or exceed bar CA standards. This the only reason why I used Magna Flow it’s a cheaper alternative to factory.

@@RJayStyle hello . i am located in chino Ca and im dealing with code p0430. I have been told by mechanics to replace the cats but they run about 2k for brand new ones and its fairly hard to find a OEM one. before i do that, if i replace B2S2 with a brand new one (assuming there are no exhaust leaks) could that make the code go away?

@@rickyaguilar7572 Ricky see other reply. Good luck

It has lasted 2 years so far. No issues. Passing smog with flying colors. It’s a quality aftermarket made by Magnaflow. I do have to agree factory will always be superior. This is a great option though for aftermarket and CA legal. If you like this content please hit the like and subscribe. Thanks 🙏🏽

The cap is meant to close off the end because the new shaft will be going in the opposite direction this cap prevents any fluid / gear oil from escaping. Is your selector length and installation correct. This won’t work for a front wheel drive setup. This is to convert a front wheel drive transmission shifter arrangement to allow the transmission to shift in a rear wheel drive configuration if you are puting a motor in a mid engine configuration such as the MR2 Spyder since the shift cables won’t reach correctly. Before you cap off did you test the selector shaft and make sure it is shifting correctly it should not bind or hit the cap. Unless something was installed wrong or you may be using the wrong shaft. I have no problems shifting in all gears whatsoever. It’s very smooth like factory. The old seal gets trashed and won’t be reused that is for a front wheel drive setup. If you’d like send me a video of what’s going on and I can guide you in the right direction. If you like this video please subscribe. Thanks

Hello, I do have a Spyder. Donor trans is from a 2000 GTS Celica. I purchased the conversion shaft and reverse lockout. I understand the purpose for the cap. But as I stated, the shaft was making contact with the cap when put directly in the trans casing. Also, it states in the instructions to press the cap into the oil seal, which would put it out further for no contact with the shaft. Maybe for some reason, your shaft is shorter. Where did you get it from? Mine is the MWR shaft. Also.....excellent video!!!!

I installed the belt myself. And what is the question you are trying to ask? This was taken years ago for my reference. This is not a how to replace your belt video if that is what your referring to.

Yes, but you will need to drill out the radiator core support and rivet it back on if pulling from the top. It’s doable but if it’s your first time just take your time. If you’re familiar with removing engines shouldn’t be to hard. First time may be difficult. If you like this content please subscribe. Thanks. RJ

They make a factory Lexus Denso Oxygen Sensor this is the equivalent to the factory Lexus oxygen sensor which is also made by Denso except for the connector it will not plug in if you look inside the connector lock it doesn’t plug in the same way. This sensor connection does not plug in like factory. For a plug and play Lexus oxygen sensor you’d have to buy it directly from Lexus which will cost more. This is the more affordable Denso Oxygen sensor and you have to swap your original connector if you’d like it to plug in like factory without cutting, splicing, butt connecting.

@@RJayStyle Thank you very much for the information!

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Thanks for the comment. You sir are partially correct but let’s make it clear to not mislead people and clarify a few things. Many reasons why, save money, readily lole available, and for compatibility. You are wrong they don’t make these like this from factory you have differences in design and gear ratio. If you have data or info. to back up your comment please share and enlighten. Many reasons I chose to do this is for the “gear ratio” preferences of a C60 a EUDM C66 is pre made to shift from the rear which are not suitable for the motor I’m using those had 1ZZFE platforms which I’m using a custom 2ZZGE they do not sell a C60 from factory like this so please be careful with your statement. This is a C60 6 Speed conversion made for a 2ZZGE converted MR2 this not a 1ZZFE with a 6 Speed. Toyota never put the 2ZZGE in the MR2 USA, yet alone legalize it. I have done it though and legalized it. It is rare to do legally. Many people do it Illegally. Did I say it was a European C66 6 Speed pre built transmission I never did. If I wanted to buy one like that I would have and it would bolt up but not work for my application it’s just a waste of time. A Pre built off the shelf ready to go bolt on wouldve been nice, but that’s not the case. There are many different versions of similar casing that you have to identify. Maybe an aftermarket company can supply you one. Good luck with That. I don’t trust many people to build my stuff and internals as well you never know what they put inside. C66 are rare as well along with not being suitable for “lift”. I chose how I wanted to build my transmission. It has nothing to do with, “if you want to buy a EUDM C66” yes those are prebuilt to shift from the rear. Those are euro transmissions that you can get from Europe off the shelf but don’t shift even close to enjoy the 2ZZGE format Purpose. I have these easily accessible in many Celicas GTS, Matrix XRS Corolla XRS lying around as well. I have quite a few of them. Some people can’t source off the shelf parts quickly enough which cost 3x as much. This also saves many from that hassle of sourcing and waiting. I made this video as a reference to those who have the means to build/customize an MR2 Spyder and do a front wheel drive transmission for the “2ZZGE” and turn it into a rear wheel drive transmission. If you want to buy a EUDM C66 pre built feel free been there that that. Be warned it does not work the same. I’ve done and played with them the gear ratios are not built for a 2ZZGE Yamaha motor again and not suitable with lift to summarize. Be warned waste of money to unless you drive a under Powered 1ZZFE which the entire world does. The C60 or C64 is what you want for a 2ZZGE. I’ve been doing this for years.

@@RJayStyle yes the c60 and c64 come like this already , it’s already like that from factory

@@Harrymcnani Again, wrong information. The the c60 & 64 do not “come from the factory” shifting this way. You have to build it to shift from the rear. All Toyotas with these gear boxes are made for fwd. the only option is a $9,000- $10,000 Lotus new gear box. And that is not supplied or readily available as a direct swap off the shelf purchase through Lotus even being a Toyota transmission the gearing is not made for a Toyota as well. Unless you go through an aftermarket source factory Toyota never built this “factory” as an off the shelf full assembly.

@@RJayStyle wrong again , in Australia they came already like this in the sportivo corolla

@@Harrymcnaniyou are absolutely incorrect. In Australia yes they have a c60/64 on a 2zzge platform. But it is not a mid engine rear wheel drive. Those Corollas are front wheel drive. Which is equal to Celica GT-S, Matrix XRS, and Corolla XRS USA models. They are all “front wheel drive” vehicles. Nothing equivalent to a Lotus gearbox that “shifts from the rear”. You are confusing this video with front wheel drive transmission setups. This video is to convert your front wheel drive selector shaft to shift from the rear. The Australian Corolla Sportivo again is front wheel drive. Please get your facts correct and stop misleading.

Thanks for the comment. This can be confusing yes. Just to clarify one is a switch and one is a sensor. The E.C.T at the fan here is the “E.C.T. switch” for the fans bolted and screwed into the radiator. It’s sold purpose is to activate the fans on and off at a set temperature. The other E.C.T you may be referring to is an “E.C.T sensor” it is on the engine block driver side. It is used to to detect actual engine temperatures. It’s what you can monitor to see how many degrees in temperature the engine is running. You can see this data live on a scan tool that reads obd2. Hope this helps. They are different part numbers. Not the same, one being a switch and the other a sensor. If you like this video please subscribe. Thanks ❤

Amazon

Yes, I used the intake manifold and tied it up on the throttle body stud/bolt area. It’s strong I’ve used this point many times. Check this video out kzbin.info/www/bejne/lWelgH9jfqiClac Slow the video down at the 30 second mark you can see the location. Good luck. Be safe. If you like this video please press “like and subscribe”. Thanks.

Focus, you got this do a leak down test, block test, compression test, just to make sure the engine is still ok. These engines are know for head gaskets failing. I wish you luck. If you like the video. Please hit the “like & subscribe”. Thank You. RJ

Yes, I’m showing that this is another possibility for those who can’t drop the subframe and want to do this at home without the clearance to bring the body high enough. You are correct dropping the motor is typically the route to go if you have enough clearance to bring the body up and drop the motor with subframe.

@@RJayStyle I just did the same thing after seeing your video. It wasn't too bad actually but I welded the rad support bad in place. Now I have a JDM J35A from an Acura RL in my MDX so I have Vtec on intake and exhaust cams. Doesn't matter really, I just wanted a motor that ran and didn't burn oil.

JDM 👍🏽 Excellent. If you like this video pls hit the like and subscribe appreciate it. Enjoy.

Drilled the spot welds out and then riveted back together. It’s the only way to remove the motor if you’re pulling it from the top. You don’t need to do this if your dropping the motor. It’s another alternative for those who can’t drop the motor and lift the body off.

​@@RJayStyleThank you so much for your video, I'm currently doing this plus rebuilding the motor 😢

The old selector shaft came off a front wheel drive Celica. I took the components apart to swap them on a new selector shaft that will allow me to shift the vehicle as a “rear wheel drive setup” when the transmission will be mounted on the rear (mid engine) rear wheel drive.

Yes, new fog lights where installed and use a bulb with yellow output.

Any salvage or wrecking yard. Online suppliers as well.

DDM Tuning, Amazon

Typically dealership will cost that much. The factory is much more expensive plus add the labor.

@@RJayStyle What? This a video about Transmission mounts lol.

@@MRMAN-wb1tv Good catch just testing to see who’s watching haha. Fixed

@@RJayStyle Lol. Yeah right.

Only human. Hit the like and subscribe if you like the video 👍🏽🙏🏽

Yes it can sound scary. You can just replace the servo that’s acting up.

I think mines acting up in its early stage. Haven't did it on last 5 start up. It's weird cuz I have ac n heater setting off n I hear it buzzing. I also wanted to make sure by taking the Glove Box off. Nonetheless I'm sure this is my same issue. Thanks to ur video I can order and replace it.

@@kongchan916 oh no. Yes, it can act up it’s best to catch it soon and replace it before it jams up completely. If you like this video please subscribe. Hopefully it’ll be the servo that’s in the easy position to remove. It can be a little tricky to get out.

I'm in the same position. The parts yard motors come with no history and questionable mileage claims and they aren't cheap. There are some JDM motors out there with claimed 50k on them that appear to be pretty nice. I've bought them for my Civic's in the past and they were solid. I think I will go this way but what a job to change it out! I have my old motor out but I pulled it with heads off and it fit. A complete motor will not get past that rad support. I can drill it off but rivits??? really?

Depends on who and where you’re getting your motors from. This is just an example of how I can do it. You can also remove the heads and manage to build it within the engine bay. I did not want to split apart the block but rather do it this way as one unit. The engine I got was low mileage and comes with a warranty so I have no worry. You can spot weld it back together or rivet it’s your preference. Rivets are easier to remove for me so I have no issue with using them and never had a problem.

Off a local body kit shop that sells bmw kits. If you like this content please subscribe. Thanks.

This was many many years ago. I removed the combination meter. On the backside are twist bulbs. I replaced the bulb with a factory one and it worked like brand new. If you like this content. Please press the like and subscribe.

All those lights just mean that the engine computer has stored a code in it. It can be either one or many codes have been stored causing that light to illuminate. It will need to be scanned and interpreted/diagnosed. The reason why the engine was replaced was because the motor was running rough, lost compression, and misfiring due to oil burning. If you like this content please subscribe. Thanks ☝🏽👌🏽

@@RJayStyle can a bad coil pack or maybe spark plug cause this that’s the only thing that came up with the scan but I highly doubt that

Yes, a bad coil pack or spark plug can cause misfires. You can swap the coil plug and spark plug in different cylinder positions and see if the code changes and moves to the new positions you place them at. It’s a possibility but make sure you diagnose the code/problem with the repair manual first before throwing any parts at it. Start with the basics.

@@RJayStyle thank You so much

@@RJayStyle never knew that could cause my sh awd to go off

Ok, I saw your other comment. You just drill out the stamps. Thanks again!

It was brittle the hoses were extremely hardened by heated it was part of my preventive maintenance as I was already in the area when I changed leaking valve cover gaskets.

Sorry to hear about your engine. Plan ahead proper tools, procedures, and equipment. Yes, follow the factory service manual procedure always you can purchase them online or at the dealership depending on what vehicle your working on. Your first engine swap will always be the one you remember. The manufacture of the vehicle sells the f.s.m as well. Take your time and safety first. Make note of items that you are unfamiliar during the engine swap along with perhaps taking photos and such. If you have a friend who’s worked on the engine beforehand you may want to have them on hand as well as they guide you. Plan ahead and prepare for what you need to accomplish for a successful engine swap. Good luck.

A few things you may need to check. Check the basics start at your fuses first. Then proceed to find a possible electrical issue that is related between all those 3. An e.w.d would be helpful as well. Scan the vehicle for any codes as well. Good luck.

@@RJayStyle Thanks for your help I ended up replacing the ABS & TRC Traction Control Module & everything works now. I scanned & nothing came up I also checked all the fuses & all were good.

@@loneric550 glad you were able to figure it out!

Always use a new gasket between the Exhaust manifold and head. The nuts to studs on the head torque down to 30 ft lbs. the bolts downstream to the rear cat pipe torque down to 32 ft lbs and new gaskets are needed. The oxygen sensors torque down to 33 ft lbs.

Thanks. Appreciate it. If it’s your first time you can do it in the engine bay but will be tight and be cautious because you don’t want anything to smear. It’s much easier for me to do it outside of the engine bay but it can be a handful if it’s your first time removing the motor. Just take your time like with anything and don’t rush. I don’t like rushing things and do it right the first time. That way it’ll be done correctly.

One cup does a lot!