in my country, titebond 1 is too expensive than other same type glues and also us prices, its like specially imported for luthiers for my country. but i see most of luthiers and woodworkers are using titebond, has it seriously different than others?
@joshuahouseguitars3 ай бұрын
@@zampara236 in most cases you will be fine to use another brand of yellow wood glue. It does not have to be Titebond. Oddly enough where I am in Canada Titebond 1 isn’t stocked by my local hardware store. So I use the Le Page brand which I show on the video. It has worked well for 20 years
@BryanClark-gk6ie4 ай бұрын
Corduroy effect is a sign leading to cracks
@bagginsoddie64345 ай бұрын
Helpful, thanks
@John-wr6yo6 ай бұрын
It is my opinion that red spruce tops are mutch more sensitive to humidity or lack of than other top tone woods. Red spruce tops take some warming up,a few minutes of consistent playing,then they attain more volume and clarity. Could it be my imagination,no i dont think so. Red spruce,and engelman spruce are my favorite soundboard tone woods,but i think they have the tendency to move a little more than others.
@danielbreaux18426 ай бұрын
Would it be easier just to nail a stick of wood on both sides? Guess that might have to be deeper and more difficult to remove the nails.
@reekreeks6 ай бұрын
instead of using nails just clamp a 3" or so wide piece of mdf along each edge. you could even glue one of them perm. in place and just clamp the other side. faster, easier.
@joshuahouseguitars6 ай бұрын
That is a good idea, and I should probably make one of my joining boards with a permanent straight edge. One of the reasons that I haven't done this is that it seems like a lot of my wood sets do not have straight edges. Often they have partial tapers from the upper bout to the top of the pattern. The nail method works even with these odd shaped plates.
@Stillkickingarse7 ай бұрын
I'm currently in the midst of overhauling a good friend's old Kay guitar that was damaged beyond repair. Aside from replacing the crappy stained wood fretboard with a rosewood one, I'm also replacing the laminated top with a solid one along with Martin-style X bracing. Now, I have never done a top from scratch before... your videos will definitely come in great help for my project.
@neondynamite20717 ай бұрын
Hello Josh, I was wondering if you might know why I have vertical dimpling in the shape of the 2 underside vertical braces perpendicular to my bridge on both of my gypsy jazz guitars?
@RmsPaintStudio7 ай бұрын
I almost run out of wood, but all ok, thx for share!
@jerrylowman92910 ай бұрын
Have you ever tried Osmo on the fret board? I'm working on a scalloped fret board.
@hereasafanofallsorts516411 ай бұрын
240 grit sandpaper on a beam is my go to after the Jointer - creates a good glueing surface as the grit is finer than the striations in the wood surface and it creates an absolutely light tight joint
@untunglaksito2389 Жыл бұрын
Thanks Josh!
@USA4thewin Жыл бұрын
this is actually one of the best videos ,, cuz I am having that middle section sticking out more than the edges ill try this method
@joshuahouseguitars Жыл бұрын
A razor sharp blade and extremely shallow cut help. You can do this with a #5, but it is easier with a 6 or 7. All the best!
@USA4thewin Жыл бұрын
am trying to do this with a no5 planner
@tombloomer8928 Жыл бұрын
I use this method. Learned it from the book "Classic Guitar Construction" by Irving Sloan, 1966. I read the book in 1972. ;-)
@brianwarford8312 Жыл бұрын
Hello, just wondering how far this product goes. I’m about to finish a couple of tele bodies and am wondering how much I will need, the 125ml cans or the 750ml cans if the small ones won’t be enough. Great video!
@joshuahouseguitars Жыл бұрын
Hey Brian, It goes a long way. I can get several necks or even a couple acoustic bodies out of a single 125mm can (usually 3 coats is what I do). Keep it covered whenever you're not using it. Leaving it open for long periods will shorten it's life and I often find I may have to discard part of a can because it has started to thicken before I've used it all up. Still if you use it all up within 6 weeks of opening it you will usually be good.
@robertnewell5057 Жыл бұрын
Nice demo. Any thoughts on using it as an acoustic guitar body?
@joshuahouseguitars Жыл бұрын
Yes, I am using it on some acoustic bodies. Because the finish is so thin it does not have a lot of dent protection. But on the upside, because it is so thin it does not damped the vibration of the instrument. I do notice that the instruments I finish with it (acoustic guitars, or mandolins) are a bit livelier sounding then when I use even a Nitro lacquer finish.
@joshuahouseguitars Жыл бұрын
I should add that I'm still experimenting with using it on Rosewood bodies. It doesn't dry the same on very oily woods and so I'm working to figure out a process for that. It's great on non-oily woods like Mahogany or Walnut.
@JohnRotonto-ql9ds Жыл бұрын
Classic Cornier!! Priceless!!👍👍👏👏👏👏👏
@warloshernandez Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this idea, I like it better
@CYAw-fj5dm Жыл бұрын
How much
@micdunsmore3553 Жыл бұрын
Josh is there any bleed out issues with say rosewood headstock on a maple neck? Or rosewood bindings
@joshuahouseguitars Жыл бұрын
Hey Mic, I have not experienced any bleeding issues, but have not tested that extensively. Most of the woods I've used this on are not oil or prone to bleeding. I have always done what they suggest and seal oily type woods with the thin finish before proceeding to the matte and so far it has worked well. I would certainly glue up a maple rosewood/scrap and test this out before trying a whole neck.
@micdunsmore3553 Жыл бұрын
@@joshuahouseguitars thanks for your info!
@kwaktak Жыл бұрын
I’ve seen many different techniques for bending using a Fox style machine. What made you decide on using two nylon heating blankets instead of just one? Does it reduce the potential for scorching or minimize cupping later on in the build because you’re cooking off the moisture in the wood more evenly? Or does it depend on the species of wood? I know from experience that mahogany is very tricky!
@cswann8 Жыл бұрын
I saw a video by a big name builder who was using a white/carpenters glue and was a little surprised, but after seeing this, I now understand why he uses it. I wasn't aware that hide glue was so fidly. Being able to go as slow as you want when clamping and then being able to unclamp in an hour is a big deal I'm sure.
@DougHinVA Жыл бұрын
I use 1/2 a dampened sponge in the case ... A pack of 6 sponges are $1 at a Dollar Tree and I cut them in 1/2 and wring theme out and put them in the case with a guitar when not playing. Easy and cheap.
@johndewitt54 Жыл бұрын
Excellent demonstration of this joining method which was described by Irving Sloane in his book, Classic Guitar Construction (1976).
@jimdent351 Жыл бұрын
I guess I've gotten lucky because I've got a 1991 Gibson J-45 in storage essentially since new in our Canadian climate. It shows almost no signs of drying. I didn't know they were so effected by the climate, but I've just bought a sound hole humidifier that I'll check regularly. Is it okay to close the case with this type of humidifier in there?
@joshuahouseguitars Жыл бұрын
Hi Jim, Yes, and with these type of humidifiers you want to use them in the case when it is closed. Most of the sound hole or case humidifiers used with instruments are small and can only humidify a limited space. If you have the case open, or you try to use them with the instrument on a stand then the majority of the humidity will escape and the humidifier will have little or no effect. Hope that helps.
@sustainablelife1st Жыл бұрын
How do you determine the radius of the guitar top? I have a 10 mm Arch in the center of the guitar between the bridge and the tail. A straight edge rocks 10mm each direction when parallel to the bridge. 8" to the edge of the guitar from the center. GS mini. thanks.
@joshuahouseguitars Жыл бұрын
I find that if it is a factory made instrument the best option is to google the top (or back radius) for the specific model. You can measure it, and figure it out using some math, but the radius on the top can change a lot based on the current state of the instrument. If it's dry then the radius will show as being flatter than it should be, and if the instrument is over-humidified then the radius can show as being larger than it should. Finding out the original radius that the instrument was built to is the best starting place.
@conorgorman8664 Жыл бұрын
You must have had some structural failures in the past from string tension. I totally get it, but from what i have gathered through a limited amount of acoustic build, is that the sound board repsonds better the lighter it is without sacrificing strength. Just noticed that you focused alot on adding strength to the upper bout, sound hole, and bridge. i know the patches for example are relatively small, but "small" is subjective. The soundboard itself is not huge. Any percentage of the surface area that has extra pieces of wood glued to it, will take away from the potential total resonance of the top. Especially added around the bridge plate. The transfer of energy from the strings to the top all happens in that area. Adding to the upper bout for strength has to hender its potential also. I understand that 160lbs is alot but these methods have been studied and tested for well over a hundred years. Personally, i have never experienced structural failure due to the string tension on any builds or purchases. (which have been plenty to have an opinion after 30 years playing, but only building for three years) You most DEFINITELY could be WAY WAY more knowledgeable than me for sure. Just wanted to put my point out there. Civil discourse is healthy and thats how we all get better together. I sincerely wish you the best, and i hope to be able to play one of your creations one day. thanks
@joshuahouseguitars Жыл бұрын
Hi Conor, Sorry for the slow reply! I often miss comments on my videos. My bracing designs have not been informed by top failures on my instruments, but rather observing failures on vintage and factory instruments over 20 years of repairing and building. While many of the failures are only partial, I've seen lots of top deformation around the fretboard extension/soundhole area. On vintage guitars this often leads to the instrument needing a neck reset, and other work. But these type of failure do also show up on newer instruments that simply don't have enough bracing in the area above the bridge. Philosophy of bracing varies a lot! But with my instruments I've always focused on having a lot of strength in the upper bout to guard against longterm top deformation, while relying on the area bellow the sound hole for my primary tone production. Also, the guitar in this video is not the best representation of my bracing due to it's small size. It is a very small guitar! But it needs to have the strength to withstand as much or more string tension then a regular size guitar, since these models are often tunned up a few steps (Terz style). The result is a top that may look overbraced, but in reality it is what is needed to withstand the string tension on this instrument. All the best in your journey as a luthier.
@stephenleak183 Жыл бұрын
Lovely looking guitar and the basses and trebles sound even and balanced…
@ollianddelphine Жыл бұрын
Just watching this as I polish some frets. You can just add some white spirit (mineral spirits ) to thin the normal Polyx for the first coat. Instead of getting the thin version.
@micdunsmore35532 жыл бұрын
Josh…have you ever done an acoustic body with polyx?
@forestsoundsguitars2 жыл бұрын
Thank you a really helpful video, really appreciate this level of detail. I just have one very quick question, can you apply Osmo 1101 over a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil? Warm regards! Jon
@joshuahouseguitars2 жыл бұрын
Hi Jon, glad you found the video helpful. I really haven't worked with linseed oil, but my understanding is that all Osmo products are designed to go directly onto bare wood. There are several finishes that have come to market over the past couple years that are meant to bond with the wood on a molecular level, and my understanding is that Osmo is one of these. It means that it doesn't stick well to other surfaces, and especially other finishes. You could try it, but my guess is that you would end up wiping it on and wiping it right off again without any of the product sticking to the linseed oil. I may be wrong, and you could give it a try, but it's not how it is meant to be used so I wouldn't be too hopeful.
@aze2162 жыл бұрын
THANK YOU!! I've been looking for a video on side bending where they identify the temperature... 240.. AND thanks for the tip on veneer softener..
@Longtongstudio2 жыл бұрын
Perfect Idea 👍❤️
@cantilever732 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot!
@joshuahouseguitars2 жыл бұрын
You're welcome. Hopefully it was helpful.
@oliverk1912 жыл бұрын
Caveman stuff
@joshuaparkerrains53402 жыл бұрын
With that type of music it seems he would be better served placing a hollow body electric.
@rasbydorton12 жыл бұрын
Josh when you make your bending form how much smaller than the female mold do you make it to allow for the first blanket , slat and side?
@rasbydorton12 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the good video Josh. Have two questions. 1: do you wrap the wood in paper or foil to prevent staining by the spring steel slats? Do you profile the back edge of the side before bending? I studied with Sergei as well and am evolving in my approaches, always looking for more info. Thanks again!
@joshuahouseguitars2 жыл бұрын
Hi Fred, Sorry for my slow reply! I forgot that you had left a comment on this video. In general I don't wrap the wood, and I typically don't have issue with any staining. I think one of the keys to this is that I use a very small amount of water. Typically just spraying the underside of the wood lightly. If I'm bending light coloured wood like Maple or Mahogany I may get some surface staining, but it easily sands out. In the past I found that when I was using more water than staining was more of an issue. The water would seem to pool and boil under the wood and cause a deep stain. And to answer your other question, no I don't profile my sides before bending. It would be a bit of a time saver, but I have such a wide variety of shapes, and often 2-3 depths I use within those shapes, that I've never gone to the effort to figure out all the profiles I would need. In reality It would probably save me 10 - 15 per build. Maybe that would be worth it..... If I can be any more help please let me know. You can always email me direct as well.
@rasbydorton12 жыл бұрын
@@joshuahouseguitars Thanks for your generous reply. always gleaning and always learning. God bless!
@jonsnider30842 жыл бұрын
Wow!!! 🫣🫣🫣 This scares me, but love your videos
@gustavocoimbradosreis40892 жыл бұрын
Hello! Thank you and congratulations on the video! I love hardwax oil and as I'm building my first acoustic I was thinking it could be an option for finish. It's a stewmac 000 kit with a slotted head, and I'd like to give it a vintage look. As I understood, this could be a good option for the mahogany neck and rosewood back and sides. What you be a good option for the sitka spruce front, to make it go along with the rest of the mate look? Thank you!!
@raulands2 жыл бұрын
I have a Recording king RO328 and have recently noticed that the neck is slightly bent downwards (not much). So if looking from behind the bridge at eyes level you can see a dip starting from around fret 13. I've completely realeasd the truss rod (no change in neck position ) and I'm keeping the strings with tension hoping it returns back to its normal position. Where I live we've had very high temperatures for weeks or even almost 2 months sometimes over 40C. I'm curious, what could have happened? Would you say its reparable? Or would it be the perfect excuse to start thinking about getting another guitar 😜😂 Thanks!
@joshuahouseguitars2 жыл бұрын
Sorry for the slow reply! It is hard to say exactly what is happening with your guitar. Is the area you live in dry or humid when you hit those high temperatures? Often when an instrument dries out the neck can flatten out or even bow backwards. If your guitar is dry then this could be what is going on. If this is a dryness issues than keeping the guitar in it's case with a humidifier should help restore the guitar to proper moisture levels, and when the happens the neck should move back to it's proper position. There could be something else going on, but again without seeing the guitar it is hard to say.
@raulands2 жыл бұрын
Very helpful and interesting, thanks for posting!
@TheCleaner69692 жыл бұрын
Hanging guitars use a plug humidifier.
@Canoeland2 жыл бұрын
Super helpful, thanks man
@mailvilla2 жыл бұрын
June 08, 2022: I just bought a Guild D-150CE Westerly Collection Dreadnought Acoustic-Electric Guitar Natural ($1,049.00 + tax). this is a nice sounding all solid wood guitar. But, one side of the top is a lighter color than the other side. I would think if I was truly book-matched, then it would be the same color. What do you think? If it is book-matched, then why are two different shades?
@jasper_north2 жыл бұрын
Does the ball need to be “lined up” with the slot…no way to check that…thanks
@jasper_north2 жыл бұрын
Is it wise to lubricate the nut slots with a carpenter pencil? Wipe off strings when finished playing? And a different tuning often means downtuning …does that cause stretching?