Awesome video. Loved it when your kids popped in. :-)

My car the fan runs evn if the car ts off without the key and it wrote PRE SAFE....it refuses to change gear seems to be stuck on gear 1. Nd sometimes like ths it refuses to start please help

Your video helped alot!!! I’m having trouble finding the o-ring that goes on the top of fuel rail( right in between plastic and stainless fuel line). any suggestions?

No good

great video . but dont take credit away from dealer thats what they charge for diagnosing issue and parts and labor along wit reprogrammed , not doing anything wrong , dont like the price dont do it at a shop or dealer , no need to trash them .

WHAT FUCKING IDIOTS MAKE THESE CARS??? Oh yeah. US ...not the United States but just ignorant ASS FUCKS.

I love the humor! lol good job!

Great Video Thanks! I like others are going to try Dorman kit, I'll let you know!

Would my.2019 traverse be the same? I also can't find good info for 2019 specific

I want see you put the sensor back in.

That was one of the dumbest videos ever watched All you want to do is pull the goddamn high beam fuses

is left and rigth side is same part number?

Bro buen dia, gracias por los videos justo veia los que hiciste hace algunos años del altima v6, sabes si podría contactarte, si es que se pudiera, para unas preguntas, llegue con el video de los solenoides del altima v6 5speed

please my Kia Sportage 2012 came up with P0661 code what is the solution

I know that voice!!!

Thank you so much! My issues and tips. I welded 2 small allen wrenches together and made a pick to release the clip. Raise the red tab, twist allen wrench to push clip in and it released. I used a 4 prong spring holder to start the new one, then GENTLY used a straight screw driver in the end of the sensor to insert a few threads. A large screwdriver is required for this. The tools mentioned from AUTOZONE are a must. The socket, swivel, and long 1/4” extension is a must. I lost about 3-4 ozs of coolant. No burping needed. Took about 20 mins from start to finish. 5 star rating. Thank you for the video.

What kind of beer?

Bro thanks for this. I only needed to do intake manifold gaskets but still curious about the rest. I want to know how you cleaned the cylinders tho

Just buy the part. Takes about 10 minutes to get into and 10 minutes to put back together. Cost is $52 at AutoZone. Not worth hacking just fix it right.

Good stuff!

You are the best, thank you very much, you helped me locate the fuse!

Is it common for the check engine light to come back on again without deleting the code when putting everything back together even with disconnecting the battery?

What an an absolutely retarded design. Leave it to Ford to do something so stupid. God forbid you can just remove the hose from the solenoid and just replace it without have to go through all of that. Thanks for the video.

What voltage did you measure at the terminal end of the connector from the truck that goes to the solenoid? I am measuring 11.5 - 11.6V. When i function the solenoid from the direct battery connection like you did it seems to work great but when I connect back to the van it seems dead (no observed movement and no noise). I cleaned the terminals on both sides so am not sure what might be going on. Thanks for any help.

I had 3 different 15mm sockets and had to go to auto zone for that specific 1/4" drive to make this work. Started the car after the repair, didn't fix the problem. Discontented the battery for 2 hours to clear the codes and drain all the temporary memory. Fixed!

lol not to mention that the stat is $100 plus vs $ 10 for the ECT.

thanks for the helpful video! i’m having a really hard time finding front struts for my ‘17 outlander. any idea where to find em aftermarket?

Great video my guy and thank you for showing us the rear of the manifold!

Did mine today. Just as you said, it takes the exact socket to fit on there and break it loose. Took about an hour, nd I had to replace the little plastic clip but we are good to go without spending the 700 bucks the mechanic wanted for the same job which cost me a total of 70 bucks for parts and tools. Thank you VERY much!!

What if you just remove the high beam relay ?

How did you got the oil neck filter?

Good video on the removal but was hoping to see the new installation. Do I presume correctly everything lines up and it can only go back in one way?

Fantastic 😀 You covered all the points and make it super easy

Excellent video. I'm a pretty handy guy. I like fixing things myself. Years ago it was because I couldn't afford having someone do it. Now because it seems today that you pay a lot of money and when you get it back it's still not right. I've looked at quite a few videos for all different type of complicated repairs. Most of them "leave you hanging" somewhere along the way. This one was fantastic!! I'm probably going to let the dealer handle this one anyway (because I can afford it now, haha). But a least I'll be able to tell them what they did wrong if something is not right.

I just did this job and I would say it’s mandatory to remove the windshield crown. I was not able to remove the back connector otherwise. Also, I broke the air inlet plug because to connectors are so hard to remove. Had to glue it back with Polypropylen glue… Those inlet are se expensive.

the "Giggidy Giggidy"🤣

I used the Dorman kit and was able to easily cut the line right before and right after the purge valve with wire cutters - not much space to get larger snips in place to cut the tube on the back. It was a super easy swap out and works as advertised!!!

Do the solenoids need to be relearned?

So just replaced the TCM and you don't need to reprogram anything?

Ooooor with the same amount of effort and time and $30, you could just undo 2 screws and 3 small wire harnesses and pop the bad turn signal switch out and put in a new one. That way you dont lose functionality of you're high beams.

Something I didn't see in this video was a close up of the plug that connects to the sensor and I am seeing two different replacements online. Of course the latch for the plug is on the backside so I'm going to try to look at it with a dentist mirror... gonna have to break out the spectacles for this one! Great video, though. Thanks for the help

While you were fighting the steering wheel I was getting in my truck to go buy a puller

I have a p1450 code on my 2013 escape. I pulled this out and it appears good because the was no air flow when I blew through it. Is the problem midst likely to be in the solenoid on the charcoal canister?

Thanks

really hope you see this and reply time is not on my side, I stand correct it goes up to 70kmh which probably means gear 2

Could you please take a look at the diagnosis I've made with the quotation marks and let me know your opinion (simply just an opinion, nothing else ) if this solenoid and or conductor plate failure 2006 ML350 4MATIC is equipped with the 7G-Tronic transmission, which is also known as the 722.9 transmission " is stuck in gear one after recently getting the gearbox oil change. It won't go past gear 1. I did two things; first, I checked the contactors on the right of the oil drain plug. And it did have oil on it. So I cleaned it with contactor spray. The second thing we checked was if the gearbox was overfilled with oil by opening the plug to see if any oil did come out. And a lot overfilled it, but neither helped. Additional things: I've noticed that the car makes a big noise & shakes when shifting from park to drive, or reverse. The second thing is that there are no error codes. (but there was some before the problem occurred) The third thing I noticed was that it was not in limp mode. It would rev to the red line in gear 1. The fourth thing was that it wouldn't work with paddle shifters either. (prior to the oil change, only to gear three and after the gearbox oil change, all the gears for one day then the problem occurred) Errors that showed previously but after the ABS sensor replacement cleared never came back. This was the original problem. The gearbox oil change was just precautionary. C1103: Wheel speed sensor left front. Check tolerance C1399: CAN communication with the component <Gear selector module> Communication error C1102: Wheel speed sensor left front Faulty C3271: Wheel speed sensor front Value unreasonable C3266: Electronic stability program: Control Interruption to ES ""

10:55 - Those bolts are torqued to 4Nm then turned an additional 180° which means they are stretched. It's a risk you take re-using them especially if you torque them the same again. I would only tighten them firmly hand tight given they are a 6mm alloy bolt.

Thanks for the great video on the purge valve replacement. I like the Auto Zone part since it is much easier to replace the part in the future.