@@okobojo Proline Solo wireless tach. Works well but you can’t recharge or change the batteries so once dead you need to buy a new one every 2-3 years. Other option is more expensive FastTach wireless tachometer that allows you to replace the batteries. You can get the proline solo from Sawzilla, and the FastTach from amazon. Sometimes I find the FastTach is a bit too sensitive, why I bought the Solo, but when my Solo battery is dead I’ll go back to my FastTach.

@@henrymckean4586 From Matthew Olson at mattschainsawparts.com/crankcases/chainsaw-crankcase-assembly-tool-kit/

@@coltonrhine9229 dealer

@@walker11288 Yes, you can use the Husqvarna splitter on many saws, and is a bit quicker/easier to use. But, can also be a little harder to line up, and the part of that tool that nestles inside the case can sometimes mar the crankcase, but in the end gets the job done.

It's very weird, but I believe it's a 3/16" Allen wrench that you'll need. Not sure why they didn't stick with metric. At least that was the only hex wrench I could get to work.

it depends on the year of saw. On some I've found they use SAE/Imperial ¼"-20 bolts. On others I've found them to be 4.5mm or 5mm. Thus, if you have a bare crankcase, you'll need to purchase some spare bolts and test which ones fit. I don't have any spare ones lying around for 395 so can't measure the length for you, so you'll need to experiment with that as well. Unfortunately, the IPL doesn't state the size, type or length. Good luck.

@@АртурШиробоков-з5я Factory settings are 1.25 turns out from fully seated position on the Low jet screw, and 1.5 turns out from seated position on the high jet screw. But, every carb is different, and best practice once you get there is to further tweak the jets using the aid of a tachometer if you aren’t experienced enough to fine tune the carb by ear. Maximum overspeed rpm is 12,500 (8,500 under load), and idle rpm is 2,500 for the 395. If the saw is new or the cylinder assembly and piston has been replaced, then you should run the max overspeed rpm about 600-700 rpms lower during break-in before tuning the saw to specification. Also, it’s important to retune the saw if you use it at a much higher or lower elevation than normal, and if running the saw all year, you should also tune it for both cold and warm weather. Also, assuming nothing else is wrong with the saw, the carb should be retuned any time it’s not idling or throttling up properly. Hope this helps.

Sorry, don't have the part no. for the SKF bearings. I usually just look them up on SKF's website, or a distributor that sells them using bearing specifications. If I track down the SKF bearing part number I'll let you know.

Does it matter which side of bearings are installed? Some applications of bearings does is purpose of silly question.

@@rhemamachaira8763 oke

Yes, they are very similar

@@beliddel saya suka dengan konten seperti ini. Saya ingin sekali memahami mesin2 bos. Trimakasih anda sudah berbagi ilmu.

New tank assembly

Not that big, although by no means the smallest available. 10 litre capacity if memory serves. Can only fit ½ of chainsaw crankcase plus a few small things. You learn to be efficient w/ it and reuse the fluid multiple times before discarding.

For future reference on repairng/rebuilding this saw, I suggest you download the illustrated parts list from Husqvarna's website, which would answer these types of questions. The sealing ring for both the clutch and ignition side of the crankcase on this saw are identical. Husqvarna OEM part number 503 26 02-05

The handle is super easy to remove. 3 bolts on clutch side of handle, and 2 bolts on the bottom of the tank assembly. That will allow you to remove the handle. Assuming the spring you mention is the anti-vibe spring coming off the right side of the cylinder, that too is easy to remove. You need to insert a long-enough Allen wrench (4mm in size) through the threaded hole in the end of the spring after the handle is removed,, and so long as the head of the bolt securing it to the cylinder isn't full of gunk, you should have no problem inserting the Allen wrench into the head of the bolt to loosen it so you can fully remove the spring from the cylinder.

@@beliddel yeah,mine was modified by the previous owner( the handle is crooked and he put a bigger screw inside the av mount) and the tiny sleeves that come on the bottom where you screw in the handle have come off. My chainsaw is a bit worse than the one you rebuilt. I'm gonna have to work a lot on it. I already got 3 projects so its a good way to start my chainsaw rebuilding journey

@@mirceacrusitu6620 if you can’t somehow find inserts to repair The bolt holes in the tank assembly, then you might be in for a new tank assembly, unfortunately. Sounds like you definitely need a new handle also. I always check the bolts on a 395 frequently to retorque them as necessary. That saw has a lot of vibration and loosening bolts have always been a problem. You can also use Loctite on those mitigate a lot of that.

@@beliddel i have the inserts,I just have to refit them,if you got any tips they're welcome, i got the saw for 350 bucks,I'm getting a new handle as we speak and she:s in for some work, I will follow your videos on the rebuild and get her in a proper shape again,she's been through 23 years of hardships and deserves a restoration.

In case I do lose the inserts,I'll try to get two big screws through the plastic holes,maybe even heat the screws for better seating and secure the handle using two nuts. Its stupid I know but it will keep the handle there till i get a new assembly

It is

@@beliddel quick question when you heat treat your piston do you take off the rings and pin or do you leave just the pin in while heat treating?, just wondering because steve morris (billet engine builder) heat treated his mostly done block and it came back 80 thousands off in the bore from the heat treatment, Then he does the final milling to specs. so it makes me wonder does heat treating the piston take any of the original specs away?

@@diggindiggenit6540 Only heat treat the piston. Most folks don’t do it. I do it because it strengthens the piston…..more durability and that’s what I want in a work saw. I also sand or lightly grind off all sharp-feeling edges on the piston to further minimize/eliminate any light scoring it may cause in the cylinder.

That’s an option. Blue locktite works too. I’ve personally not had that problem, but I routinely check the bolts on the saw anyway. But, other than bolts on the top cover have rarely had anything loosen. But, if you don’t want to take the risk, then use it. I often use locktite of some type on the case bolts and ALWAYS use locktite on the cylinder bolts.

Mine has a tillston With the small Needle.

The catcher is a cylindrical hard plastic piece that is mounted to the bumper spike on the crankcase. It’s not uncommon for that to be missing and folks don’t even know it. Never run them without a chain catcher!

@@beliddel okay thanks on my saw there is a broken bolt below flush on the lower spike my best idea to remove it is to maybe first use a small die grinder to make the broken bolt a bit level then using a drill press to carefully drill a hole in the middle of the broken bolt and hopefully use a small (forgot what they call them) tool that will remove the broken bolt? in the middle of part 5 watching carefully the process

Sorry, can’t answer that question. I don’t fool around with timing at all. I go stock all the way. I don’t port, about the only customization I do is consider using a modified muffler to very slightly more horsepower and help the engine run cooler.

@@beliddel I see so many people porting the saws but i think of it like comparing two birds a hummingbird (ported saw) VS a parrot (stock saw) the hummingbird heart beast faster so his life span is shorter as he wears out faster then the parrot who's heart is much slower

@@diggindiggenit6540 ported saws run hot, and due to that NEVER run as long before they blow up. There is a reason why manufacturers don’t set up their saws to run like a hotrod, and it has very little to do with adhering to EPA regulations. Some like it, but it’s never truly necessary in the practical world. If you are good at cutting & felling, you should never need a ported saw. But, like anything else, to each his/her own. If you need more oomph in a saw with the type of cutting you’re doing, then get a bigger saw.

Glad you found some value in the videos. That’s why I post them. I find it therapeutic repairing and getting nice saws like these up and running again.

@@beliddel yes i agree, i am totally new to all this at 63 yrs old just getting into saws, i have acquired many different brands mostly vintage or b4 plastic several are plastic/metal just now the mailman dropped off a china clone 395 that i won on ebay less than 250 total very good to have that as i will be trying to fix the real 395 so comparing what i am missing is crucial. fantastic videos you make just subscribed today

OEM

I have two. Fast-Tach wireless tachometer. Works well but sometimes too variable. Proline Solo wireless tachometer seems to be more reliable, but either one works. The Fast-Tach one allows you to replace batteries. The Proline Solo one has an integrated better that cannot be replaced, so when it runs out you’d need to replace the whole thing. However, the Solo is quite a bit cheaper than the Fast-Tach one. I do not purport to know the best wireless tachometers on the market, these are just the ones I found that seemed to get some of the better reviews at the time I purchased them.