@@maximoflores4524 I’ve done both hand reaming and machine boring for tapers. For hand reaming I’ve used the Ferrees reamer with varying degrees of success. I’ll be making my own soon.

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@@svantepersson9735 thank you for your comment! I will try- I don’t really have a good set up for recording as I’m working but I try to make footage here and there (it’s just that that kind of video will require a ton of footage). Good to know there’s interest!

The quality of your videos is very good and i would not have i any other way, however i do understand that it would be difficult to record whilst making the barrels. Thank you for the fast answer Mr. Park. I really adore your work!

Good question- not as much as I thought. But since it is untreated, after a minute or two of playing the bore got all furry (smaller diameter) and very difficult to play. Same thing happened with oak abs walnut barrels.

@@tpark89 In my opinion there would be 2 reasons for that. First, those woods will fuzz up far more than the exotics. Secondly, that is moisture. If you sand it very fine, then moisten it with a damp cloth, dry and resand a couple times, that should stop happening. Also, most exotics have a lot more oils in the wood. Perhaps a couple of coats of oil on the inside will help. Have you tried woods like jatoba or ipe?

@@jamescranefinecarpentry7146 you’re absolutely right, I did both of of those things. Sanded it many times and also oiled it- seems to play much more stably now.

@@tpark89 With guitar building, there is a lot of lore around wood species. In reality, the options are a lot wider than most would admit. Look into Ken Parker. He is an unknown legend in guitar innovation, and I love watching his videos. I would love to play one of his archtops someday if I had the 25K + for a used one. He has such interesting perspectives on wood and how to get tone from it. I know it doesn't correlate directly, but I am sure you would find him fascinating.

@@eugenwall7908 I think it was either a V12 3.5 or a Rue Lepic 3.5+ sorry I don’t remember 😭

Thank you so much for listening and for your kind comment! 😊

No, but I sometimes use sandpaper or razor! I honestly don't do a ton of work on reeds. Do you use Reed Geek? I've heard great things!

@@tpark89 i just start using Reed Geek and it works good!

It’s the AB model by Ramón Wodkowski. I think he only made them for a short period of time before moving onto other models.

That's great! NAPBIRT is also a great resource to check out if you can afford the yearly membership. Their facebook page is super resourceful and supportive and they have regular classes/ meetings. But yes I agree, try to meet the people at your local music store and see if you can talk to the owner about your situation. Best wishes!

it's all about the thumbnail

Thanks a lot for listening! I agree, Vandoren tend to have far fewer hurdles and are more user-friendly.

I’m really not sure! Probably Vandoren or Leuthner

Thank you for listening! What do you play on?

Thanks for watching and good question. The answer is yesm you can get trained at the job, but you usually have to earn your place by working other jobs before they trust you will stick around. Imagine if you were a small business owner and you rely mostly on relatively small modern sales margins, rentals, and school rental repairs. Taking in someone to train them for a month or two before they start becoming proficient at tasks takes times (money) out of my business. If you come in the beginning of summer let's say June, get trained, start making some progress through July and start doing some good work in August, in reality you've lost two months of profit and therefore lost money on someone. Unless they stick around long enough to make up for the loss and start bringing profit. Now, this is all hypothetical and everyone has different background/ skillsets/ learning curve, etc., and every store has different training programs and needs. Usually when you get paid to learn/ free education, it is the least predictable trajectory. You will learn a lot for sure, but you really have to take the initiative to try to make sure you're always learning something new and that they are toward your goals. Versus, if you pay to go to a school to learn, you will get a lot more focused and concentrated education. No repair school is cheap by any means, but you will make valuable connections and get a pretty good overview of almost every basic band instrument repair. My opinion is that it's probably best if you get all kinds of education, at least as big of a variety as you can. At a music store I learned a lot of stuff I can't really learn in school. And I'm sure there's a lot of info I missed out on by not going to school. Do what seems the most appropriate for you and your situation and go from there.

I'm not certain... but maybe?

@@tpark89 They started doing so recently, you can still the ones with the adjustable barrel easily though

Thank you so much for watching and commenting!

Yes! M30D

I paid very little compared to how much they usually go for- I'll probably never get this lucky again. Kaspars expensive but depends on the type also. Chedevilles are almost impossible to find these days for most people.

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Yes, I would say work on your scale from the starting note to the ending note of your passage with out glissando, really pay attention to what your fingers and embouchure feel like. And then keep the same embouchure, start introducing finger glissando. At the end when you feel this is as good as it can be, add finesse by manipulating your embouchure/ voicing. Have fun!

@@tpark89 thanks!

Thank you Zisl!!

Thanks so much Zisl!!

I wish, my lathe is unfortunately not big enough to do that. Even making a barrel is a stretch haha. But someday!!