Crap I don’t. I know I had to use the 120 link force chain and didn’t cut off too many. It’s a fairly long chain stay though so I had to use the longer chain

Also, this is the "standard 2x" rival derailleur, not the xplr model right?

@@boostenmkiv That’s correct. I have the 36t max derailleur just in case I still want to use the 10-36t cassette without using the wolftooth adapter which what I have on my road wheelset.

@@JaypsWRX which Wolf Tooth Road Link did you use?

Haha nice!

@@JaypsWRX this video helped me do my seat and I’ve been sending it to other people cause it shows perfectly what you have to do, Ty for making the video

I don’t believe so. The offset needs to be around +35-38

@@JaypsWRX do you think with slight spacers it would clear?

@@kil3rblood148 yes it would work. Don’t quote on this but I believe the stock wheels are +45 so I think a 10mm spacer would work. I’d advise against it thought unless you’re gonna get extended wheel bolts. 10mm is a lot to take off the stock wheel bolts which could strip.

@@JaypsWRX the wheel spacers I'm looking at bolt on and have their own studs and replacing studs on the civic would mean splitting the wheel bearing open I believe 😅 but thank you 🙏

@@kil3rblood148 understandable. I remember having a lot of this conversation with myself before attempting the BBK since ARP studs are almost out of the question lol. I think that why I ended up getting new wheels for cheap. Either way it sounds like you got this handled! You got this

If it’s for the main harness I used a pick to push in the tab for the main harness. It was a pain at first but it gets easier after that

so you do have to remove the mirror glass...I was hoping to avoid this step but it looks like I can't. I have a WRX so I have to thread 3 wires through the mount and into the door. Would a hollow tube (think metal straw) help w/threading the wires through the mount? I also plan to lay some sound deadener while I'm in there so it will most likely take me several more hours per door.

I think so. I haven’t tried it but you can add multiple lighting equipment under the app

Yup, I just tried it. there are way too many interconnected harnesses with the power. T_T

No I ended up leaving them alone because I was trying to look for a better budget solution like used CTR calipers better match brake bias. Figured I would need to look into a new master cylinder as well if I did so I didn’t want to invest into too much if the braking matched the driving I was doing

I cleared with +38 offset. What time do you have?

For me, 100% more comfortable since it has more bolster

I had the exact same question. From my understanding I think rl rotors have a different diameter around the hub area which doesn’t make up for the different in height that the 350z rotors make up for. I noticed that the rotors sit perfectly with the rl caliper toward the top but still have a gap around the hub area. I think this is probably to make up for the adapter that’s placed on there. I also think the distance from from the hub face to the rotor brake area is also different spacing.

350z disc rotor have the correct hub spacing, and it center itself on the caliper. Subaru wrx can also be use coz of correct hub spacing.

Hey what’s up, sorry I didn’t have much detail on the brake lines since it was a straight swap just like many other videos on how to replace brake lines/bleeding brakes. One major note though is that the RL calipers come with a hard line that runs from the banjo bolt then up the knuckle. For this you would simply run the stock or steel braid line straight to the caliper via the banjo bolt. I also just used the gravity bleeding method to get the air out of both side. Hopefully this helps!!

@@JaypsWRX would 12.9 inch work?

Hey what’s up, yeah new rotors are needed for this caliper. They were 350z Brembo rotors if my memory serves me correct. The stock rotor size won’t work since they are a different offset and diameter, basically making them too small for the RL caliper

@@JaypsWRX What year was it

Haha! It’s honestly not that bad. Trust yourself and measure twice lol

Nope! Glad to say that I have these in my daily which is a WRX and they are working super well after a year. Installing the govee underglow next.

Nope! Glad to say that I have these in my daily which is a WRX and they are working super well after a year. Installing the govee underglow next.

Any issues with them now? Any issues with using the 12v since making this mode@@JaypsWRX

This is a hatch but I think both cars have similar interior

Hey this should work because all civic hatches have the same from wheel hub. The only thing that might be a problem is the oem wheels unless you have aftermarket wheels.

Hey these will clear the oem 18in wheels with a 10mm spacer. I know for sure the rotors might be slightly heavier but the calipers are for sure lighter. I don’t have the specs in front of me but I remember looking at the data. I think the most concerning part of this swap was just making sure brake fade was nearly gone which it was.

Brake bias was a little different but I have a pedal spacer to compensate for it. No abs lights and works amazing! Definitely worth getting SS brake lines.

@@JaypsWRX how is the bias different? Is it more front or rear?

@@deepeddyracing mainly since the front calipers have a lager amount of brake fluid compared to what the master cylinders was intended to handle, it took a little more pedal travel to find the right braking points that I was used to. The rear pads will catch first then as the pedal get pushed more then the front pads kick in. Also rear pads can go bad faster this way. There’s a bunch of forums that this can be elaborated on but this is the short version lol

@@JaypsWRX oof, that sounds pretty bad for track use. Thanks

Thanks! Yeah I recently traded in my civic sadly. @jayps_wrx is my new account!

@@JaypsWRX thanks and how’s the switch? Worth ?

@@girthydino556 in all honesty if you’re willing to learn a new platform then Subarus are way to go because they can be challenging at times because they’re really different than most cars. This will be my 4th Subaru and my 2nd WRX so I can’t stay away from them. I love Subarus lol.

Thanks! My grille mesh pretty simple to paint. I just got spray paint and laid the paint layer then did a 2k clear coat.

How does it look along with the type r wing?

Looking at the stock brake lines they look like they can work but just making sure that some good ol’ loctite is applied before tightening the banjo bolt should help with from backing out. For the few months I’ve had this set up, I checked up on the lines and no issues to report!

Looks like r1 still has them in stock right now and I think they have a promo going on for 25% off. www.r1concepts.com/detail_catalog/index/r1-carbon-geomet-series/ref=NISSAN+350Z+2008+Brembo_Brakes+Front+Slotted_Rotor+?gclid=CjwKCAiA4KaRBhBdEiwAZi1zztLJXb9tuo6owhpqfVCZ7k4BLyDqsDUdC0KaqZlCfQGS5YOkrqOnPhoCrJoQAvD_BwE

Thanks! Those are Enkei TS5 18x8.5 +38 with 255/35/18 rs pros. I got those rims because they had very little concave to the face of the rim to clear the caliper. I had about 1cm gap from the caliper with those!

@@JaypsWRX do you think 18x9.5 38 wheels will work??

Thanks for the follow! Here’s the link to the lip. www.socalaccessories.com/2017-21-honda-civic-2-4si-5d-type-r-style-front-lip-flat-black/

@@JaypsWRX I like the big brake kit I think am going to get it for my 2018 Honda CR-V soon.

Nice! Meh we didn’t run into any because we only flew outside landmarks because it’s all restricted. Plenty to fly out there though!

@@JaypsWRX Awesome! But I came across your vid when looking for the black canyon of the Gunnison. Come to think of it, this isn’t it is it?

Thanks! This build had almost all Megan racing parts. I used Megan coilovers, roll center adjusters and rear adjustable camber arms to achieve this look. The ride was smooth but it definitely took some time to find the right damper setting.

Thanks! Yeah I thought it would worth sharing how this can be done with the mindset of longevity and cleanliness.