Hi Simon, not heard a lot from you recently. Hope all is well. I’ve just removed my A-frame from my 2002 XKR. This can be done quite easily provided all the boats come out and there is no need for extra support for wishbones etc. Biggest problem I had were the two boats at the top of the A-frame go onto the connecting rods they were solid and I eventually had to axle the top of the boat off when that was done. The A-frame came out very easily. Hope you have some success.

Thank you so much! You just saved me some money!

Hya buddy, I’ve owned my 2004 XKR for about two years, yours sounds really good, John

Legend! No other word for it 😂

Hi, I have a 2013 model and since having a new battery fitted often have problems when the car won`t start. I open the boot and wiggle the battery terminal cable for a second and it gets the ignition going. Push button starts the car again and the only issue is that the clock has reset to 00.00. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks 🙂

Let's see the car ! Too much face

Im trying to locate the fuel pressure sensor?

Is that tool set a Blue Point kit?

I do have similar problems like your even I could see that the battery is working fine there is no problem but the car won't start

Hi guys Im a bit confused now with my faulty tailgate. It meets all the criteria of a faulty switch (upper tailgate opens from dash lower tailgate opens ok with switch ) After research I went to go change switch & someone had already attempted the repair. Touched the stripped wires together to check latch unlock functionality without switch - nothing. Is there a voltage reading I should expect on the two stripped switch cables? Is there another step before moving onto the lower tailgate solenoid change? Plus if there is nothing happening at my switch not sure how the lower tailgate solenoid change will alleviate issue upper tailgate switch not functioning? Hope this explanation of my situation so far with tailgate makes sense and any help of the ideal next step would be greatly appreciated Thanking in advance

If you dont already have it try and get hold of the JTIS software as it has a full workshop manual for these cars with all torque setting etc along with a graphical step by step instruction set for each job. I have a copy somewhere I can send on cd if that would help but there are downloads available for free for it as well.

I thought the handbrakes on these cars were drum brakes but I cant see a hole in the disk for rewinding it. Is the XKR different from the XK8 in this respect ?

Think of getting one but not sure, what’s the 2.5L like? How much to fill and what do you get on a full tank?

I’ve only just seen your video and as it was posted 9 months ago I assume it’s all sorted. However, if your battery went flat all sorts of electrical things need resetting including the immobiliser. I bought a cheap version of the jlr sdd software and the mongoose lead for about £70 and was able to fix all sorts of faults on my 2.2 xf 2015. I’ve also programmed a new key as the car only came with one when I bought it. Many people online tell you not to touch the cheap software but I’ve had no problems with it and it’s saved me loads of money in terms of not seeking the services of a dealership.

Hi Simon, I also wish you much success in this difficult task. Unfortunately I have no experience with the job, but I will follow this work with interest on your channel. 👍🇬🇧

for people doing this that want to keep the exhaust , if you undo or cut the nuts and bolts where the cats connect the exhaust , and release the hangers, the exhaust will lower with the subframe and then you can reach in and undo the nuts a lot easier. the gaskets are the same as a ford Grananda and sierra and are a third of the price of the Jag ones, which have Ford stamped on them as they are a ford parts. Also if you are careful you can actually lower the exhaust without undoing the nuts from the cats but be mindful and have a jack that lowers slowly . I done this to my XKR a few years ago, have to say it was great fun and very rewarding. if i may give you my advice, use epoxy chassis paint from rust buster and gets some phos B , done mine in 2018, sand blast phos B, clean off with chlorx and paint with epoxy with a brush , 6 years later not a single bit of rust has come back. uprated to polybush and its better than new. good luck mate absolutely love you r channel

That car is getting some serious TLC! I bet the original owner would love to watch this. I would never dream of tackling this on mine, hats off you Simon!

Good luck with this project as always I enjoy your channel. When faced with the same dilemna I elected not to drop the subframes. the main reason being the inordinate cost and headache for a low value car in which I cover 1200 miles per year. I only start on the rusty bolt routine when I have to. I did however go through and inspect very carefully every bush and link and replace anything that was a bit worn. To be honest at 118000 miles my convertible was not very bad. I replaced front shocks springs, and top mounts(twice!!!!) and anti roll bar bushes. I did the front roll bar links but they were in excellent condition and did not need changing. I couldn't find anything to replace on the rear. I have cleaned up and protected all the rust as I am not a concours participant. It is probable the car will go on for another 20 years at my low mileage. Your poll indicates you had already decided to take the subframes off it was just a matter of timing for you. I would have opted for repair as required with the subframes in situ, my decision is based on the low value of these cars. The low value/cost vs enjoyment factor is the best thing about these cars.

Looking forward to watching you remove those nuts Simon 😀

Hi Simon. Really looking forward to watching this restoration project. If it works for you then as the car is already off the road it does seem to make sense to get the whole job done before putting it back on the road 😊

Definitely go the whole hog I think you’ll regret it if you don’t.

would not it be more cost effective to replace some of these parts with second hand ones

Hi Simon, Full support for this project from Canada. Some tips. Mark the drive shaft including the bolts. Also mark the parking brake cable. The rear springs may be under some tension so please be safe. If using the original bolts dont torque them to the higher end of the recommended setting as I snapped a bolt costing $100 for a new one from Jaguar. Im also upgrading all bushes to Poly and a brembo upgrade with an adamesh stage 1 &2 Good luck from Canada 🙏🏽

youtube.com/@pierswebster?si=4_D2es6GCGyz1O20 This may help going to do same myself very best of luck but drop the frame first will help remove suspension

No going back now mate :) I am hoping to drive my XK8 down your way from Worcester later in the summer!

Good luck buddy 👍🇬🇧💪

Before anything, take off the back springs i.e..the rear suspension. Will made it lighter and less 'stressed' Hello from sunny Toulouse...without sunglasses 😂

Will you give out the torque settings on each each job Simon.

Fair play to you buddy. I voted remove, just to hear new expletives unknown to me when those bolts wont "lefty loosey".

Good luck my Son ❤

Are you replacing the rear springs while you are at it?

Hello Simon , I'm in total agreement with you , drop the subframes , free the car car from rust it's all job done then and it will give you piece of mind, definitely go for stainless steel exhaust stage 1 and 2 straight through , you won't regret it and the sound is just wow , all the best 👍

Go for it Simon. Looking forward to seeing the completed project in person next summer if not this one...

Hi I like most would take the plunge and drop the subframe when you have the chance and do the work as it should be done will love to watch your project unfold as time goes on.

I have a 2004 XK8 and am currently facing a similar dilemma. Both floor pans around the seat wells had corroded clean through, so I had these cut out and replaced. A relatively straight forward job as it turned out. However, the subframes now look like those on your car Simon, as do the rest of the suspension components. No rot as such, just horrible looking surface corrosion. This and both rear wheel arches that have started to bubble and rust. My plan is to replace/restore the suspension/sub-frames and coat the entire underside with a preservative. Dealing with the wheel arches is another matter, as I will need to pay a bodyshop to have this done. Is it worth the time and money I'm wondering? Or is it time to cut my losses and trade my XK8 in for a later X150?

Hi Simon, I agree that the entire car should be freed from rust. It's a huge job, but it just makes sense. I wish you success and have your summer fun with the Porsche. Udo greets you.😊

Enjoy the Porsche this summer and drop the subframes and get a nice Adamesh exhaust 😊

I envy your opportunity to do what it takes to completely restore your car. If you don’t do it you will only be cheating yourself. You know it will be great fun and you’ll have all of us to cheer you on. Have fun and keep the videos coming. Rick Klein from the Deep South of Mississippi, USA.

Sounds like a plan. Does it actually run ok now? My only thought is its only worth it if the engine is ok.

Definitely. If I had the garage space it restore the whole lot.

I think if you have the opportunity to do this work go for it. I’ll be following you all the way . This could be a step by step how to do this kind of work that maybe I could be and others brave enough to do. Go for it Simon 👍👍

I would definitely drop the subframes. The front and rear vertical faces of the chassis are a known rust trap, so much easier to check/ repair if the subframes are off.

You have the Boxter for the summer so drop the frames

Great sound

Sounds great. That said, I thought the picture was very dark: that is til I got to the end and realised I 'd got my sunglasses on !! Do it properly now. If you dont you'll keep putting it off and will never get round to it. Plus, of course, we get to remove the subframe vicariously...! Q from sunny hot France

Well done bit by bit and good mic !