Yep. It now has a 507 Comp.

Great! I have like 4-5 thousands rounds through mine with the VolQ bolt with only ammo or magazine malfunctions.

@@AllSoWavyReese It would definitely depend on the screws for your specific optic plate.

From Page 14 of the Ruger Mark IV 22/45 Manual. DRY FIRING Going through the actions of cocking, aiming and pulling the trigger on an unloaded firearm is known as “dry firing.” It can be useful to learn the “feel” of your pistol. Be certain that the pistol is fully unloaded (both the chamber and magazine are empty) and that the pistol is pointing in a safe direction when you are practicing dry firing. The RUGER MARK IVTM pistol can be dry fired but a snap cap is strongly recommended for anything more than occasional dry fire practice. I'd say 5 or 6 hammer drops for a YT video firmly fits into the category of "occasional."

Thanks!

Thanks! I appreciate that!

Yeah, the kid did good. Had the drill chucked high, used the best fluid for the job, didn’t flood the workpiece with more fluid than needed, recovered like a pro from the chuck slipping on the drill. Used soft jaw pads for the vise, right on. The chuck-mounted tap holder was such a good idea. So slick and safe to do it that way. Beginners so often tap a canted hole manually. Not cheap though. The best tool, but not cheap. The biggest issue was not backing the tap off every quarter turn and breaking the chip. Since the material was thin, he got away with it. Always do that when tapping manually. Pro tips: If drilling and tapping aluminum, use the Tap Magic meant for aluminum. When clamping workpiece with the needle nose vise-grips, put two or three layers of dry paper towel material where vice-grips contact the surface of the workpiece. This prevents marking the finish. You had some friction when test-fitting the screw after tapping. It should be very smooth with no friction. This is from varying feed pressure on quill feed handle during tapping. Not really a problem. You can switch to a small precision tap wrench and chase rhe threads again to make them perfect, but not necessary in this case. But be careful if you do that. It’s a perfect way to ruin threads by cross-threading a tap while starting the chasing pass. (Been there, did that.) You had a problem with the drill slipping. Typical beginner thing. Here’s the fix. You see the three chuck key tightening holes in the Jacobs chuck? The right way to tighten it is to put the chuck key in one hole and tighten that b!tch good and tight, I mean like it owes you money, THEN do the same to the other two chuck key holes. You need to always tighten in all three chuck positions. That’s how you eliminate slip. In the second or third hole you’ll often feel more slack being taken up in the chuck. That’s the chuck mechanism truly developing a full and balanced grip on the drill shank. So now you know. After the first hole was drilled, tapped, and the fastener inserted and tightened, go to the far end and repeat. Then do the other fasteners in any order you like. By going to the far fastener, you pin the adapter rail down positionally. Then the other screws just help to secure alignment and mating to the receiver. The quality of job you did here is probably as good or better than quite a few guys who call themselves gunsmiths these days. Good work.

Absolutely!

I’ve got a few thousand rounds through a VQ bolt, still wipes clean with a finger and looks nearly brand new 😅

Literally no one asked for your opinion, but here you are. If you're afraid of guns and don't understand how they work, I guess that's your own choice. Pound sand.

@@teknofiliakI seriously applaud your ability to respond to haters. I aspire to your level lol 🍻

@@MillisConstruction LOL. I appreciate it. The Internet RSO stuff is as lame as it gets. "But what if a bullet magically jumps in your gun, despite checking the gun multiple times and having zero ammo in the same room?" Well, then I guess I'd have seen a miracle and I've have a bullet wound to prove it.

Yes. The Zastava guns are great, but are not true AKM pattern. Parts interchangeability is so important for AKs.

What type of competition? I mainly shoot Steel Challenge, so almost everything I do is geared towards drag racing.

You can rent the items needed to thread the barrel yourself from Brownells

Lucky gunner has a video up on how to do it. And drill and tap for a mount👍🏽

​@@BarikadeYeah. Chris did a good enough job as far as I'm concerned. Like he said though, for the price of tooling & fluid, it'll probably be cheaper to have it done by a Smith unless you have a few barrels to do. Found a Smith, named Michael Orlen, from the Shotgunworld forum, that only charges $80 per barrel + S&H and many many people swear he's a shotgun wizard. Haha

@@CarlPapa88 oh awesome. With NY inflation I'd be lucky to find one for around that much. Awesome brother 👍🏽

MadMaccs sight mount. Stock irons. I actually pulled them off because I'm solely running this with a dot.

Why Omg no?

If it works, it works.

Drop in.

Not entirely sure. Just a medium speed. It's just a WEN press. Nothing exciting.

8-40

I think either would be better than the stock Ruger.

That "gunsmith" is full of shit LMAO mossberg drills and taps all their current production model 500s, 835s and 590s to this drill pattern. The Maverick 88 uses the same basic receiver template as the 500 and 590 minus the machining needed for the tang safety. As long as you torque down the rail screws to the required torque and use blue loctite, whatever rail you have mounted should never budge.

Recievers are the same as the 500 +. Just not milled for tang safety as stated above. I was told not to worry about threading barrel cause I wouldn't need it for HD so I'm looking to thread that myself as well.

Thanks!

Eh, it's a pretty cheap shotgun. Worst case scenario, I had a shotgun with misaligned holes on the top! :D

Nope. Really just used the vise as a second set of hands. Not doing milling with it.

I literally just used the pic rail as a template for the holes. I initially bought it to use, but then found the direct mount for my Vortex dot, so I went that direction. The pic rail was like $7, so I figured I'd just use it as somewhat of a sacrificial template.

Fine in moderation.

Noted, I guess. It works out completely fine the way I did it. I was worried the flimsy pic rail could have some bend in it. If I did it your way, it's possible that I would have had misaligned holes.

I would not use this for EDC. This is a competition gun. I would not use a 320 at all for EDC, personally.

@@teknofiliak what about the P356 macro comp? I installed the MCarbo trigger and lighter sear spring but i’m hesitant to put the lighter striker and striker safety springs in. Its pretty solid so far. Not sure how the p365 and p320 compare, Is it just a universal rule to run a stock EDC carry?

@@Humangarbage6don’t run one in the chamber if you feel that way

Yes.

All semi outos are like that, unless you have a double action hammer fired of course.

I'm honestly not sure. I don't know that it would really change what cycles. Maybe a little bit because of the smoother bolt, but if they don't cycle with the stock bolt, I doubt they cycle with the Comp bolt.

@@teknofiliak Thank you for your reply, i will keep searching for this info before buying it.

Post a video!

You want RMR

Yeah, I wouldn't do it without removing the bolt. Would be awful if you drilled into the bolt. :D

@@teknofiliak yea true. I also noticed mine those little ridges aren’t true square with the barrel. Seems like it’s all plastic in that area. Guess I’m going to run a laser. Or pop a string. Idk.

You really can't beat an upgraded Mark IV though. You're on the right track.

Anything volquartsen makes is worth the money.. the adjustable trigger and acurizing kit is awesome, but they do 10/22 stuff too!

There's a reply to another comment with that info.

You got it!

​​@@teknofiliakThank you for this tutorial. Will do the same to mine. Did you use locktite to screws? Is it safe to drill closer to the barrel? I want to use 12cm long picatinny.

I used blue loctite. I wouldn't see why it wouldn't be safe, but do it at your own risk. I had the barrel pulled out when I did all this stuff.@@metralf

Manuals even says it's fine in moderation.

8-40 Tap and Number 28 Drill bit. Got both on Amazon. I don't think brand matters.

He did: 0:48

Yeah, definitely an option. I think that looks awful, especially that Amazon junk optic. Not really what I wanted, as I wanted a low heigh over bore pistol optic on my shotgun.

@@teknofiliak It's reasonably easy to find a Romeo5 for close to $100 - that's what's on my 1301 Comp and will be adding one to the M88 I just ordered.

@@rfdsrd Yeah, I have a few Romeos. I preferred the more open pistol dot on this shotgun.

THose rails are absolute junk. You sight picture is wayyyy above the barrel. Youll end up shooting something right in front of you thinking you have a clear shot. His red dot is much more practical for a shotgun. Any hunter will tell you the drilled and tapped install with a lo profile reflex sight is better for killing stuff. same thing would apply for self defense so in no condition is that big honkin rail better. i had one on my 88 and it was AWFUL

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Significantly crisper trigger and more positive reset.

Mine goes full auto. I had to take it out unfortunately.

I'm super happy for the like $75 total I have into the springs and the trigger.