FORD JUNK WOULD START IN NORTH DAKOTA IN FORD JUNKJUNK😅😅😅

You're a mad lad, props for getting it done. Watch the edges!

Smokey pawn shops, custom socket adapter, and failed voltage regulator. It's good to see an update.

This is gonna be sweet

I love this project very inspirational

how wide is your garage door ?

"My next self inflicted ER visit" 😂

Please upload a full video

Thinking of doing this to my 2002 excursion. Thoughts?

Que modelo es bauer. Necesito perforar un muro de concreto 45 centímetros

I would think you would want to use Hydraulic Oil not Grease as lube so as to not contaminate the system.

On that 40 x 80 shop I told you half the roof blew off.. and flew out into the field basically still in whole pieces.... That shop had rafters like yours- that were 40ft span... And he had those rafters 8ft apart. lol.. So again: every 8ft was 1 rafter and a big pole on each end.. and nothing in between; and then his purlins were 2x6 FLAT, spanning that 8ft.. and he had them spaced 2ft apart, going up the rafters... crazy. the purlins were ALL only 8ft long... with no over lap.. meaning that they all butted end to end on each rafter. lol. It was sketchy. So you can see why the wind blew it apart. Those purlins were spanning 8ft, and only sticking 3/4 inch on each end, sitting on that 2x4 rafter.. smh, wild.. When we rebuilt it, I just built it the same way/ layout that he had-- only we used a few long purlins, so that they would at least stagger and overlap a couple of rafters and tie it together better.. but it was not safe to climb on. You could not walk out in the middle of the rafters until you put metal on it... and even then, it was quite spongy and bouncy out in the middle... The rafters were only nailed to big round posts-- like telephone poles.. and they were tall like yours. (that's when we added the rebar/bolts) Sketchiest job we ever did-- but the guy was poor and we were just helping get the roof back on------- he had called us to come tear it down.. and we talked him into fixing it; since it was stacked full of crap and tearing it all down would have been even more work; it was worth it mainly because we were able to pull the broken pieces all apart (out in the field) and reuse nearly everything........... I'm just telling that story again (with more details) so that you can judge it against how well yours is overbuilt. lol.. You are WAY over built, by that farmers standards... He said that shop had been there since the 80's, and I believe him....... He didn't have any bracing in the rafters either.. So we put some long purlins (stringers) along the bottom of the rafters and put some X-bracing down the center and beefed everything up with long 2x4 bracing....................... So when I see people questioning the strength of their roof structure-- I just judge it against that one. lol.... 8ft apart is really stretching it for a flat purlin.. 6ft seems ideal.. and 4ft like yours is plenty overkill, (plus you added even more in between- double overkill).. So you probably spent a little more money than you needed to.. but that's fine. (especially if you have really deep snow loads)

Pretty nice... I built a similar lean-to against my shed (30ft long).... I put my posts at 6ft spacing, and I just kept it 1 rafter per post, and didn't even put any rafters in between.... Then my flat purlin 2x4's were every 3ft going up the rafters........ So those 2x4's spanning that full 6ft, while flat-- doesn't sound like it's very strong.. but it was actually still surprisingly solid... and then when you put the metal on there, it's plenty strong and I can walk all over it with no problems.. I think my rafters were 16ft 2x6.. (maybe only 14ft, I forget now) So I was definitely stretching them to the limit, being 6ft apart. lol.. but it's just a shed full of dirt bikes and riding lawn mowers, etc.. with a dirt floor.. It has worked great for nearly a decade now.. and held up well to snow loads (we would rarely get over a foot of snow, total.. if any now).. It's hard to beat a good lean-to.. haha.. It's just a perfect design.

I wonder how strong it is as a magnet? Maybe lift a little basket with it and keep adding weight until you see how much it can hold? I wonder if it's just a few lbs.. or like 200 lbs?? I actually don't have any idea

You can use it for a magnet drill , typically used for iron work layout and on site fabrication

Where did you get injectors?

You're medival there was never a flail 😂 just swords them hammers them pikes

Beninca is much better than this

Enjoy, just be careful, some of the new ones have very weak cast aluminum heads. Unlike that Mac you have there. A good fall or pry and it can split. Cheers!! Funny how you can have 5 of them and still not have the correct one for the job sometimes 😂

Rotor

Here is the video of me adding the manual control glow plug button. Helps a ton when its extra cold out kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYixpIh-r7x5jpo

Rebar is awesome. Can use this shit for everything.

Where’s the tip? All I seen was a few buttons being pressed and nothing was said

i’d recommend checking out litebar if you do a lot of pads with little bends

all the foundation documents I've read specify Grade 60 rebar.

At least in nevada where i live u cant build anything with 40 grade, it needs to be 60 grade.

Grade 80 is considered weldable

U need grade 60 not 40

In Boolk is the way to go

I just get mine off of job sites at night. Doesn't cost me a dime.

Nice build

Ok but you still charge the customer what Lowe’s would charge you . ??? You a thief brother!!!!!

I am not a steel guy so I cannot leave a comment

Men in real life are smart and savvy men in commercials and movies are bumbling idiots.

They can cut to size and bend it for you too. If you have plans they’ll do the entire take off and send you everything the sizes you need. Save a lot of labor time.

Okay my bro. Please tell me how to get a deal on insulation. please and thank you.

I believe those fins are called apex seals.

I bought a years worth of product. Then you make more

40 feet!? Good lord lol.

Bruhh 🤣

Let’s talk about butter sausage what it is and what it does

First of all, I don’t buy my rebar! I buy someone else’s rebar.

Bro are u slow or something?

Yeah, Lowe’s is a scam

#4 means 4 eiths of an inch, #5 is 5 eiths of an inch and so on. So #8 = 1inch

He talks like hes trying to hold in a burp

I go even cheaper and dig through the scrap yards.. You can get it for scrap prices (if they have it).

Waaaw an actually useful not painful to watch short, you're a blessing. Keep up the informational content

Good to know

I was very impressed until you decided to skip out on the vapor barrier.