These updates are informative and insightful and truly appreciated by all of us, rookies 💯 TYVM 🙏

REQUIRED VIEWING FOR ALL VOCATIONAL COLLEGE'S COURSE: PAINT AND BODY CONCOURS RESTORATION ✅✅✅

Whats the color code for this color if you dont mind me asking?

Linear blocking tools are the best blocks in the industry! Best blocks I've ever used... Guys thank you for making such a high quality tool 😎👍🏻

I love the fact you blasted it once, fixed it and then hit it again to prepare the new metal 👌. One of the perks of owning my db500s is I can do it to my own stuff. Most guy’s don’t have the money for me to go back a second time.

I have a question why do you use sand not soda blast

hey, just got in the project, great car choice, sad to hear it will be another trizilion black car, sorry but i think they are just dull, will keep watching this project tho

Have a couple of cars I did almost 50 years ago a Cadillac and a Lincoln still look perfect and we're done with filler over metal and all Sherwin-Williams lacquer products including ultra fill lacquer primer , Sherwin-Williams sealer Sherwin-Williams Acrylic Black Lacquer still looking perfect no cracks blistering or shrinkage ! I did use claussen company ZChrome Body Filler which state is rust inhibitor also used their non shrinking Nitro red glazing putty which they don't make any longer use UPol now

What is the difference between dp lv and lf?

Always great videos and awesome work. I'm very interested to see the follow-up video to the primer testing, the corrosion/salt spray test. It looked like you are getting your own blue primer made by someone, but I am curious if that is still in the works since you are still using the PPG primers? I hope it is going well because you do such a good job with explaining the different products with actual facts and if you are using something I can assume it is really good. Thanks and keep up the amazing videos!

Thanks for those good painting tips

What type of blasting media are you using? How much pressure are you using to sandblast? What areas are you blasting, only the door jams, the bottom of the car, the inside floor pan, the firewall, and inside the trunk? Are you concerned about metal warping? Are you doing anything special on the inside of the doors?

👍✌️

Love your work is there a video on the bodywork for this paint job

Have you finished this???

Wow

The 770 results are very disappointing. Doesn’t seem right, Bob Barney claims it’s 78% solids, yet your tests are saying 40%. I’m not saying you’re lying, or that are method is bad, just doesn’t seem right. I’ve use several high builds, including half of what’s in this test. A 770 puck has no shrinkage in the cup, fits back in like a perfect mold. I know that’s not nearly as scientific of a test, but it does give you a rough ballpark. Congrats on this new product, make it in black and white please. Look forward to trying it.

I have never even used the ultra flex block on anything, don’t even flex hardly at all

Im a little confused. why spray DP90 and then VP2050. aint they both epoxy primers? plus why aren't you using the linearblocking Blue high build epoxy? is that just a new product that you've found and started using? EDIT: I just now saw that vp2050 is a high build primer that's DTM. now i understand why you do the two steps before filler. I'm assuming so you can rough up the sub straight with 80 grit for the filler to bite into.

What did you use for a base on the firewall?

Still haven't invested in mics for your audio on these vids?

Shrunk the bulges , meaning in the metal work ?

Cool ...

Hot Rod Lincoln...!!!

Not sure what comparing epoxy, which is non-statable by the way, and cross-linked isocyanate urethane have to do with anything. Cured urethane, like 5310 is a different product after cross-linking. Epoxy is two products which combine, but have the properties of both components. Also, not sure about the comment that urethane isn't dtm. Even if that's true, applying 2k build primer over epoxy makes that point moot. And who's to say initial shrinkage is a barometer to future shrinkage, especially when comparing two completely different types of products. I'd always prefer to have an iso catalyzed substrate barrier under iso cured base and clear than a non-statable epoxy under urethane base and clear. Guess it comes down to what works for you.

I would have enjoyed the video in real time... didnt learn anything about techniques or much of anything really

Sometimes a car that long and fitting so flush and tight can look like it’s made of Lego and looses its original look that makes it lose the shapes that make it cool

Jobs like that 69 Camaro rework are sometimes questionable. Some customers will say it don't have to be perfect and they "want a nice driver" when initially talking cost. So they get what they pay for. Other scenario is they pay for certain work done and the shop hacks it to save money, usually when they write an estimate on restorations and they try to make bank. BTW, good to hear Jeff Matauch is still in circulation. Last I talked to him, he'd retired from PPG. And is the next upcoming class info on the website or how do I find out? Thanks

The music does not suit the video.. Anyway life goes on..

I never liked those replacement quarter panels that don’t go all the way up to the sail panel . Do not making those long cuts 😢

How are you getting even coverage if you painted hood , fenders and doors separately? Paint match is excellent and nice work btw.

I'll stick with SPI

Why wouldnt you take the broken glass out of mirror 1st ?

I have a 69 Camaro to do in nearly the same color. Lime frost green. I’m a little worried about the metallic looking uniform as I will paint it in pieces as you did. Any advice on how to keep that metallic looking consistent so the panels will all match up when assembled? Love your channel. Best on KZbin. You do fabulous work. I will be using the same products you do. Thanks, Bill

I do the same. I always start out with 100p or 1500 by hand with blocks, then move to my DA with 2000 mirka microstar, then for 3k and 5k with 3m trizact disk. Then go with my rotary or DA polisher and 3D compound. Alot of people make mistake of not realizing that it works better with the pad being a little wet. Recently switched to Linear Blocks with the last fiberglass Cobra kit car i painted for a guy

Dude, turn the damn fans off for your commentary PLEASE. It is so hard to understand WTF you are saying.

The epoxy primer you developed, can it go over bare aluminum?

Like the paint, is there a final video unmasked and wheels?

How much in weight was the thinner in each product?

Opinions are like Rectums especially to somebody that's been doing it for 50 years and never used epoxy first with body filler over it still have cars that I did when I was a kid 47 years ago in Sherwin-Williams acrylic lacquer and there was No KZbin with a lot of ' Know it All's "

Love the real world testing technique. I have been using the HOK for years now solely because I do small custom paint and use mostly HOK products so I am just simply sticking to the same brand. I do love how easy it is to sand but because it is an epoxy-acrylic I always wondered how great it is for corrosion resistance. I also like how smooth it is when you reduce as recommended with 2 parts reducer for a sealer. I have noticed it is a bit thin, as your testing clearing shows so I am really interested in how your new primer holds up to the corrosion test because your primer would be a no brainer for a first coat over bare metal to block over and not have any burn-throughs. Love the videos and keep up the awesome work!

Very good information!!!. But here in my country the only primers they sell that you use in the Review are PPG CRE and VP 2050. With the PPG primers, what would be the most suitable drying time to paint and not have problems?

Are you saving the pucks from the left overs on these products to compare? I'd be interested in seeing the Linear puck compared to the SPI.

As long as you can sell your product at an affordable price. That’s the kicker.

I've been using Sherwin Williams SU 522 spray it with a 1.4 tip and stack 4 coats it has been one of the best primers for the price I've used in a long time

Do you mean .644mm? As 6.44 mills is quarter of an inch thick, great video

You have some error in the mixing. Ratios by volume don't equate to same ratio by weight. And unfortunately by weight is better but many TDS don't always provide by weight ratio. You'd have to measure yourself first time for give product. Some of the mixes might have been under or over by some amount. But very good thought process.

Great test! I used All U Need on my last car 12 years ago, so far so good.

Surprised to not see the VP2050 even though you've tested it before. Any pricing yet on the Linear primer?

who makes the linear epoxy primer?