Do you have the same headlights but I want to have the high beam bulbs with the low beam. I do not like having only one bulb option.

Installed these on my car and all they do is flicker…. I saw the comments that additional parts are needed, but have no idea what that might be.

Does it matter how much you tighten down the stud for the height adjustment?

Esta de lujo pero aquí en México donde los consigo 😊

I purchase a set of spyder pro and the bar light went out.who can tell me how 5o fix it

I got spyder headlights for my impala The bar on the headlights went out how to fix it

do you have a video on how to do the halo wiring

Do you know where to find bolts?

I wish the wiring was different. I had to modify mine. DRL's should be wired into a harness with marker light. This way you don't have the ugly yellow low beam turn signal on all the time. Remove the low function and use high powered LED's for a high only turn signal. Much cleaner look.

Can you out the links to the part 2’s In the comments of part ones because it took me forever to find this 😩 😂 not that all your videos aren’t great but I really just needed this one for now lol …:thanks again you make my job so much easier w your vids 👍

Does anyone know the lift on the truck ?

Does anyone know the lift on the truck ?

Does anyone know the lift on the truck ?

I bought some 24 headlights and the plugs are totally different

The bottom socket doesn't fit

Do they still sale these lights??

This reason alone is why I will never buy Spyder headlights again. They are impossible to adjust once installed.

what if my turn signal is out. how to i replace the bulb if it doesnt have access to one?

Just finished install on my son's car. Helpful (?) tips for subsequent DIYers: - Recommend having a plastic pry tool / trim kit on hand. There's a bunch of inexpensive options available on amazon. Recommend having a helper (another person) on hand. - The forward pin snap on each outside, corner light makes a tight grab. The outward, lateral pop-off in the video does not represent the actual force required. The front pin releases the best with direct lateral (parallel to the ground) outward force. Use of a plastic pry tool may be required. Use of masking tape around the assembly is a great best practice. The video doesn't show making a cut to separate the over-tape between the light assembly and the car body. That's something you might do with a finger nail (or something like a guitar pick, often found in plastic trim kits). - The inside lights, the ones on the hatch, do not release as easily as in the video. The three guide-post snap-pins -- which you must reuse -- can easily be damaged on removal. Recommend use of a pry tool on the outside of the assembly with gentle-to-medium pressure while using a hook pick (looks like a bent small screw driver with a point on the end) to push/pull in the expansion flanges from the inside. There is a slight flange on opposite sides of each of the white posts. As you push / press / pull them in while applying medium outward pressure on the assembly from the side, they will compress into the body holes. Start from the outside post and work in. Once they are started back through to the outside of the body, the inside light assembly will release similar to what you see in the video. - Lateral-connection wiring: The main difference between and OEM fix and this installation is the need to connect the hatch lights and the corner lights electrically to obtain sync from one to the other. This requires the additional wire routing that represents the majority of your effort. The video shows the progress of this wiring starting from the hatch, but the box ships with the extra wiring connected to and bundled with the corner lights. One thing not discussed in the video is simply disconnecting these wires from the corner assemblies after unpacking so that you can then connect them to the inner assemblies and route them back to the corners from there. Both connection wire bundles (R and L) are the same length. But, do pay attention to the video's point about keeping "left with left and right with right" -- so I suggest marking the connectors for, say, the passenger's side run with a Sharpie (black or any color) and leaving the other plain. - Lateral-connection wire routing down toward the hatch hinge (toward the front of the car): There are two paths down the ‘tunnel’ from where you see the wires stuffed in on the video. You need to route toward the farthest inside path you can find. I couldn’t get either or both wires simply to stuff down the path. Recommend the lightest gauge coat-hanger wire you have and “fishing” the wires one at a time or two at a time (tape them together) down the tunnel. If you start toward the outside of the hatch, you will run into a blockage about 10 inches down. You can get a fish wire down the wrong path, but you will not be able to get the connector heads of the wires through. - Stuffing the wires through the flex-hose was significantly more challenging than implied by the video. There is not much extra room, and there is an anchor tab on the main car-body side of the hose that is taped well to the existing wire bundle. I had to make a small coat-hanger fish tool to pull the wires through (be careful, tape the fish to the wire jacket to avoid putting too much pull in the connector). It is best to do them one at a time. (You might consider a squirt or two of silicon lube to help the rest of the pull-through?) - The route into the hood of the main body (toward the front of the car) and back toward the hatch-bay opening was significantly challenging. There is an existing wire bundle that makes seeing what you need to do hard. Also, the partial disassembly of the inside trim is only partial, making it 1) hard to see what needs to happen and 2) hard to work with. Specifically, the gap between the roof liner and the exit point is thin. A helper with small or thin hands might be a real plus. But there is more actual routing space than at first it appears. I had to route the wires in beyond or in back of the existing wire bundle where they could just be felt & grabbed with the tips of my son’s smaller hands from in between the liner and the top of the car body. A more complete disassembly of this space is hard: you end up getting into the cover of the rear ABS covers -- not something to do without very exactly knowing where the snap points are; and even then, you are in for a lot to free more liner give. Still you want to be as easy on the top ceiling liner as possible. You’d likely be able to create a kind of hook fish wire from a large-gauge (stiff) coat hanger and feed the wires, one at a time, in past the existing wires and back forward (to the back of the car) --- but you’d have to know before hand that is exactly what you would need. Wire routing though the hatch lid, flex seal hose, and through the main car body is definitely the most challenging part of the process, and the least represented aspect of the process represented in the video. In between those jump cuts in the video is where 80% of your effort is going to be. On the passenger side, you'll end up with a lot of extra wire to stuff into the trim space available. I bundled it all up with two zip ties and targeted the largest open area available. (Pay attention to the point made in the video about being "below" the green snap pins on the inside cabin trim. End to end, this was a full four-and-a-half-hour process for me. Now that I know exactly what I’m doing, I think maybe I could do it comfortably in 60-90 min. if I pretended I was 'on the clock'? If this is a first-time thing for you, I’d plan on 3-6 hours and just be patient and work through it milestone by milestone. Oh, and do study the install video (45 min. prep). It is VERY helpful. Couldn’t have done it without it. Kid/customer is very happy with these lights. He really likes them.

Fyi: disconnecting the wiring harness is 100x more difficult than shown here 2:34

It looks like this only supports halogen bulbs for high and low beams? Isn't the whole point of the projector style housings to use brighter HID/LED lights???

On my 2011 chevy Silverado for me it was the black wire was ground and yellow wire was power for the low beam bulbs

The music is chill af what is it?

Hey I have the same one n my right turn light went off is it a bulb for it

What if I need replacement bulbs ?

How do you change the bulb

I have these on my e90 and the eyebrow bulb stopped working. Is there any way to change it? I didn’t see any way to take it out on the back of the headlight 😢

😮

“Just close the hood and you’re done.” Except you forgot to calibrate the projection angle of the headlight…

these lights are a piece of shit🤣🤣but they look nice

Struggled w the harness underneath for ages and could NOT get it undone. Brother-in-law and I ended up just unhooking the old connectors from the broken taillight and plugging those back into the new taillight.

Watched the video like 6 times enjoyed it very much , just you forgot to put the lock washer on twice

I got a 2011 & the customer give me a box of these led light & what I need was this guy to show me the master plug color two wires too spice in to but this fool shows me no colors wires nothing 😕 what the hell is the video good for after 2 hours i figure it out send them back home 🏡

recommend this video took me a little longer than the video (1.5hrs) as expected but got my new headlights in and they look great, followed step by step and got it done

Like that is not how you take them off at all

Those inner lights do not come off as easy as u did.

What LED BULBS does it take?

This is a headlight assembly replacement not a build replacement…

A ten minute fix, until you realize you’ve lost the 300th 10mm socket you’ve replaced

Thanks for your help 👍🏻

Do you take those little white caps off

My spyda lights came with no elctricals or plugs. Jus tail light case. Why?

Don’t buy these installed these head lites they Suck big time! Had them on my 05 Durango nothing but problems … They may look cool but The Night vision is Horrible.

Wow... only part I wanted to see how it's done, you just skip right over. Awesome video.... NOT

Will adaptive lights still be functional?

Nice

Who’s gonna tell her…?

How do you replace the low beam bulbs? I have a set of spyder c channel lights and the low beams both went out. Cant figure how to replace bulb

does it fit to honda civic 2016 with original LED headlamp ?

Nice