@@askebengtson Wow it must have been really stuck on there to break before it came free. It’s a pretty heavy duty part. Is the washer corroded? If it’s easily falling apart I would probably cut it off with a dremel. Another thought is maybe you could get something behind the pull’s jaw to grip the portion of the washer that broke off.

@@tcsadventures Thanks for the quick response! Mine looks as corroded as your part. I might have to remove the bearing carrier I guess. But it seems to be pretty stuck too. I might just try with a dremel :)

@ After I did that video, I removed the bearing carrier and replaced it. It came off without a problem. It was relatively inexpensive (around $50) and that way I didn’t have to hassle with trying to just replace the shaft seal (which was bad on mine). But you’re still going to have to get that thrust washer off.

@@tcsadventures Okay. I was hoping the thrust washer would come off if I tried to remove the bearing carrier. Do you know if I have to remove the clutch cam rod in order to remove the bearing carrier?

@ I’m sorry… I realized I wasn’t using the correct term for the part I replaced. I replaced the Prop Shaft Housing Assembly. It has the prop seal and bearings. Here is the link with pic. Is this the same part you’re talking about? www.tohatsu.us/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1000_1164_1180_16077&products_id=107617&srsltid=AfmBOoovYS27rF-5aFty1qqmfsb_4irtmRVeuShWbnQ9n2FxMwGPTnU4

@@Hermes-t6z I hope it helps! They definitely collect a lot of water.

@@WreckedBrewery I think the key is to line up the old and new cover and see where the level should be on the new dip stick. I didn’t install the covers, but the place I go to only works on the Jeeps and they install a lot of these ARB covers. Good luck with your project! Do you have a Rubicon?

@@tcsadventures I have a '24 JL Rubicon yes. That's a good tip. I was wondering if the fill level was different from stock covers. I couldn't find the fluid amount anywhere in the manual. I'd just be worried about a low fill. I've heard of this being a problem from the factory on some (mainly 392's iirc).

@@WreckedBrewery Check out the video I posted from the Mojave desert. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGSmnKKfacinmLMsi=HacwYbVG-atgsxW6 The Rubicons are really capable without a lot of off-road upgrades. Enjoy your new JL!

@@tcsadventures Thanks I've done a few trails already and it is amazing what a stock rubicon can do! I'm loving it!

@@robvog8134 You might already know this (don’t think I put it in the video), but 7 people drowned in the lake in one day in 1990. 3 teens who broke through the ice died and 4 others who tried to rescue them also died. The lake has a crazy and tragic history.

@@obiwanfisher537 Lol no horror or drama. There are caps that tightly fit into the bottom of the vents if you’re going to be in rough seas.

@@ivanbuldo7676 You’re welcome!

I don’t know off the top of my head, but I know I put a screen shot of the page from the owner’s manual with their recommendation for gear oil with and without towing. In the video I discussed the weights and the bottles were displayed on the tailgate table.

A couple things on that topic. I asked the mechanic at the Jeep shop who does all aftermarket installs on my Rubicon. He said very fine metal shavings is normal and that’s why the plug is magnetized. Larger pieces would be a concern. I would have still kept a close eye on it, but as it turns out I got a new carrier. It’s a long story, but I had a noise from the rear when making left turns. I thought maybe it was the right rear bearing making the noise when under load. It was under warranty so I took it to a Jeep dealership. They focused on the rear differential. After 2 Jeep dealers and several months: they replaced gearing, then the entire carrier assembly, and the rear axle (twice). Still had the noise. Because it was under warranty they were just replacing parts. I took it to the Jeep shop I use. We drove it and they focused in on the rear right braking. The rotor had an in perfection on it. They slapped a used one on they had laying around in the shop. Problem fixed in about 30 minutes. I guess that’s been over a year now and no more noise.

Thanks!

@@ChristopherAdrien-zt7tb I think the Winnerwell is better construction. It looks sturdier than the Coleman. But I wanted a propane oven. (one that works with my propane stove)

@tcsadventures I was looking at the winnerwell foldable oven because I have a couple of tent stoves. Recently I can't decide between having a 12v oven such as road chef or a folding one 🤔 😫. Perhaps I can research 12v heating elements?

@@ChristopherAdrien-zt7tb We’ll see how much longer this one lasts. I’ve looked at stand alone propane ovens where the propane connects directly to the oven. But they’re pretty big and more expensive.

Makes me hungry. Ya I camp where my nearest neighbor is a gunshot away. I also have about 12 or 13 originals made in USA liquid fueled Colman stoves from the 1940's to the 1960's all in good working order, ya Im a nut.

@@miniken1 I could be wrong (I usually am), but I think he’s using it to see if the nut loosens later. I have a friend who owns another Jeep shop and he puts a thin paint mark line across the bolt and nut during installation of parts. It makes later inspection easy to see if a nut is backing off the bolt (if the line on the nut and bolt are no longer in line). I think he’s doing the same thing with the thread lock. I suppose to, it could be of some help in keeping a nut from loosening. I don’t know the brand of thread lock he was using. I’m sure someone will let me know if they think I’m wrong.

@@onesjshrk I’m really glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment!

@@sh-df1bb We’ve gotten a lot of use out of ours too camping and off-roading. It’s been a good vehicle! Thanks for commenting!

@@rbutler8990 I got it from a brick & mortar store called Boatswain in Costa Mesa CA. But I put the part number in the video and I’m sure you can find it on line.

@@tcsadventures thank you! And thanks for the great videos!

@@skiffygear Lol! My origin story is a little different. I met my wife on a blind date 34 years ago. I hope you enjoy your Hunter as much as we have. We just came back from sailing to a nearby island for a week and will be going again in September. We are not your typical boat owners. We still get a lot of use out of our boat after 20+ years. I have a couple more videos to post on Spain, but after that I’ll post 2 videos on boat maintenance that you might be interested in.

@@jean-danielmathieu9223 More easily bleeding the air out is only real advantage of the electric fuel pump that I’m aware of. Otherwise you’re using the small lever pump on the engine. With that said, my engine has been starting much better with the new pump. But that may be a coincidence. The only time I’ve had any stalling was after someone else changed the fuel filters and didn’t bleed it.

@@intothewild9282 It’s worked for me. No more gunked up carb. Always starts on the 1st or 2nd pull. It’s been a good motor. Thanks for watching!

I have never had to bleed air at the injectors. I believe there are circumstances that might require it, but it has not been my experience thus far.

@@kennethsteinhilber9254 I’m glad it helped!

Lol! You could have done the walking part if you were blindfolded! Better to be sipping wine and enjoying the ocean view back in Almuñécar!

@@mexitechnology7838 I don’t know if one person can get a side-by-side like we were driving, but they had quads too for one person drivers.

@@tcsadventures Thanks amazing content

@@mexitechnology7838 Thanks! Much appreciated!

@@MrMkirk23 I buy most of my OEM Tohatsu parts from East Marine LLC. Typically they charge $5 to ship light weight parts to my location in CA. You can find non OEM gaskets on Amazon and pay less. The link below is for part #332 6006 1 (which is superseded by same number but last digit is a 0 instead of a 1). The page lists all the motors that the gasket is compatible with. My motor is a 2012 9.8 MFS A3. See link below: www.tohatsu.us/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1000_1164_1168_1169_15874&products_id=101092

@@jessnevares7861 Lol! My wife is Mexican & Japanese.

Got it. Mexicanese. 😊👍 We are heading up to mammoth tomorrow. 😊 Enjoyed the video.

@@jessnevares7861 Have a great time!

@@christianspain3015 Thanks! Hope it helps!

@@walkerphillips4203 You may have already fixed your problem… I have not had your issue, so I don’t have any experience with it. But I found 2 articles that claim it can’t be adjusted. The first involves a Tohatsu 9.9 (?) and the person claims he’s a mechanic and does give some pretty convincing details. (particularly covering other carb issues) and Includes a parts/service diagram. https:www.justanswer.com/boat/5bbfk-adjust-fuel-mixture-tohatsu-9-9-hp-stroke.html The other is just a lay person. forums.ybw.com/threads/tohatsu-9-8-outboard-stalling.356296/ Even if you have an adjustable mixture screw - you can cause a lot of problems if you don’t know how to make a correct adjustment - particularly when the problem is actually something else. Let me know what you find out. Good luck!

@@tcsadventures thanks for this! Exactly what I needed for future work. Turns out the carb really was gunked up. It’s clean and running great now! Loved this video too, I’ll be taking these steps every time now!

@@walkerphillips4203 It’s definitely worked for me. I constantly had carb problems before and now I never do.

It’s $50 on Amazon. $10 new is really cheap if it’s actually a Nordic waffle iron. We haven’t had any problems with the handles.

@@tcsadventures The ad has 4 pictures of the waffle iron and 2 are of the gray box and cornmeal with blueberry compote waffle recipe. Looks legit to me, and I think I'll pull the trigger on it! Thanks for your feedback, tcsadventures 👍

If you’re referring to the engine oil drain plug: it’s a metal washer and I didn’t replace it. I don’t know the part number. If you’re referring to the lower unit gear oil drain plug and level check screw gaskets: At 8:58 on the video I explain that I’m replacing them and show the OEM package with part number on the screen. The OEM gaskets aren’t metal, paper or rubber. Maybe some type of fiber.

Only a couple of small things. The heater stopped working and an emission sensor. Both covered under warranty. It’s been a great vehicle! We drove it from CA to TN camping across the country. Check out the video of us rock crawling in the Mojave desert. It performed really well.

@@tcsadventures wow, Hays great. It's only been a daily drive for us currently. Daughter took it to Virginia and back, for school. I'll check out that video. Thanks for feedback, and safe travels.

Thanks for the feedback! I’m on my boat right now varnishing… the work never ends. Let me know how it goes.

Lol you always take Vicky’s side!

Thanks! Much appreciated!

That’s a great question that I don’t know the answer to. I found info on the torque for the cap screws, but not the drain plug. It’s surprising how hard it is to find torque specs.

@@tcsadventures Yeah! it seems just tighten it enough like you did should be enough. Perhaps ARB should publish something.

I think an old stone basement would have been a big improvement from what my boat smelled like when I bought it, lol! Did you just spray the Odoban on everything or did you scrub/clean everything with it? I’ve never used it.

@@tcsadventures Hello, We soaked the cusion covers in a bucket with the Odoban mixed in. It was instant. They went under water smelly and came back up free from odor. We also mixed up some for a spray bottle and used that to wipe everything down.

I’m glad it was successful! Enjoy your Hunter!

Still getting over the jet lag… we saw so much I think it’s still sinking in. Yep the history was fascinating!