Hey Jared, I love that feature too! I have the pieces linked in my description they are the NICEYRIG Rosette Arm Connection and the Smallrig Rosette extension arms. Both linked in the description and the smallrig arms are on sale right now an Amazon!

Updated Video : kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3KWgmyZfLOSe8ksi=cTiQ9q2PtrDwAKSB

Thank you!

Thank you, everything should be linked in the description!

I believe this is what you are looking for? amzn.to/3sa3yXw fyi this is an affiliate link

Teradek is mounted via a cold shoe plate that's attached to the cage with a 1/4-20, than I have the coldshoe attachment to slide the Teradek in. Top handle is mounted that way for weight distribution, the lens, mattebox etc. is almost always heavier than the camera, so this way when I operate from the top handle the camera is balanced and horizons are level. Also it puts the mounting points for eyebolts closer to the center of gravity so when I attach an easy rig to the top handle the camera is level and doesn't tilt back or forward from being unbalanced. Hope this helps!!

Its not that heavy probably a bit less than 20lbs? I have not weighed it on a scale.

Hey Zack no problem! Best of luck on putting together your rig Id be curious to see what you come up with. One thing to note is I believe the 6k g2 and the original 6k have different body designs so some parts of this rig may not work with the G2. All the best!

@@caelanfisher4512 you are correct the G2 has the body design of the 6k pro, so I’ll definitely have to find a different cage at least, some of the stuff ill have to replace with a cheaper option like the battery you have listed, the main thing that seemed quite difficult for me was finding all the parts needed and being sure they actually fit or are compatible together since I’m doing it all online, it would be vastly better to have it done in person

@@Ah_Yote Hey Zack yes that's the unfortunate truth with building camera rigs. However, the more you do it and the more you stick with industry standards (and the more the companies stick with those same standards) the easier it becomes. I reccomend not mixing brands too much either go all Smallrig or all Tilta if you can. Tilta tends to be proprietary and not industry standard so I reccomend Smallrig generally even if build quality may not be quite as nice. Also friendly reminder that if you use any of my links and order anything from Amazon in the same tab as the link you used I will get a small commission, this helps me out but doesn't cost you anything.

@@caelanfisher4512 definitely used your links and added what I could use and afford into my Amazon cart, if you have any other sets up for lighting and audio equipment you should make a video about them as well if you haven’t, I plan on creating an entire indie production just out of passion, it’ll also be great for aspiring actors and actresses to get a great feel and good experience of being on an actually set

@@Ah_Yote well thank you very much it's greatly appreciated. I definitely will! Ill will say though that most of my invventory in lighting and sound is for commercial work. On the feature films and short films i am DP on i generally rent a grip truck and pick lights for the jon. That's a great idea I have done many shoots pro Bono or for lunches when I first was building my reel. I wish you the best on the Indie and I look forward to watching it if you post it on YT!!

thank you!

thank you!

I can understand your sentiment but I don't agree. I have used the Ursa Mini pretty extensively and found that I like the Pocket 6k better. Its a more affordable option with imo better recording specs, and personally even for a small camera I believe the ergonomics are better. I like the Image the 6k has so I rigged it out to fit my growing needs. At the end of the day I don't care what the camera looks like, I care what the images it produces look like and for that reason I stuck with a Pocket 6k and made it work for me. Its certainly not for everyone but it does show that there really are no limits for rigging various cameras anymore. I'll admit Id definitely love to own an Alexa Mini, LF, or 35 or possibly a Canon C series but with cost as a consideration It doesn't make sense for me at the moment, as i would just rent, and the Ursa isnt an appealing enough camera for me to merit the change.

Sometimes the pocket versions are better to use for certain people, the rigging is literally the same shit as adding upgrades, your question is like asking why doesn’t someone just get a better house instead of adding accessories to make their house more comfortable and better for use

@@caelanfisher4512 it looks good

Yea I am actually aware of this, what they DID change however was the focus throw. The proper Sigma Cine Zoom lenses have 300 degree focus throw from close to infinity like most cine lenses, which allows for fine tuning the focus for focus pullers making it easier to hit marks with more room for error. However, the Cinematics rehoused ones use photo lenses, so the focus throw is closer to 170 or 180 degrees which means less room for fine adjustments and errors. But they add hard stops removing the fly by wire focus. I didn't really explain that well but maybe ill do a full video on these lenses. For me it was worth saving the 4k to have the same glass in a similar housing but lose the better focus throw.

New version of the rig coming soon I think this week stay tuned! better lighting on this one haha

Old vid updated rig coming soon

I honestly can't remember the price of everything. Lots of odds and end. I included links in the description so you could get the exact price. My guess was between 4k-7k USD.

@@caelanfisher4512 ok thanks

So the Nano hand unit attaches to a 15mm rod clamp adapter the nano motor itself also attaches to the 15mm rod.

Hey Andrew I had the same issue and eventually switched to a Titla Baseplate/Rod Holder and a Tilta Mb-12 Clip on Mattebox. My update rig video will be out sometime this summer. Here is a link to a rod riser you could use to fix this issue you are having. I have not tried this but I would assume it would work. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1406494-REG/camvate_c1690_height_riser_offset_railblock.html OR

Hey thank you! I think all in all it was between 4k-6k. I dont know exactly I think I linked all pieces inside. My rig has changed a bit as I believe i have found better solutions but that also increased the price.

Hey Peter there is a link for it in my description the brand is Fotga. Although ill admit I have changed to a more expensive option after I had ghosting issues with filters due to light leaks on the mattebox.

Updated Video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3KWgmyZfLOSe8ksi=cTiQ9q2PtrDwAKSB

I just updated my rig with a Nucleus M (New video is up if youd like to see) the handles with the M give you the ability to focus and zoom with one hand, two motors are needed.

Updated video kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3KWgmyZfLOSe8ksi=cTiQ9q2PtrDwAKSB

Hey man the controls on the monitor is exclusive to the BM5. thanks for the compliments!! I have actually changed the rig a bit since this video, had some issues with lining up the matte box perfectly without a riser. So i changed to the tilta rail block that proprietary and haven't looked back since. I still mount the whole handheld unit on a tripod with a manfrotto plate on the bottom of the rail block, and now the mattebox lines up without a riser. only downside is gimbal use but its quick to throw on a plate if your remember markings on the plate and position on the cage. good luck on your build.

but I hope you brighten up your lighting a little bit next time, just to help us see the parts a little clearer. :)

@@DruMUSIC06 Hey man thank you, just did an updated rig on the BMPCC6k with better lighting this time lol :)

Ive never measured it with a timer but id say around 5 hours with everything running and the bm5 at high backlight viewing.

lol true dark room shot at night hahaha

Hahaha thank you! Don't worry you will get a chance to trash talk me in the next video! hahah

Hahaha I would love to have an EVF. But to be honest I haven't needed one , the Bm5 is definitely daylight visible and I rarely run a shoulder rig where I would mostly use an EVF. So the BM5 for now is plenty bright enough to check exposure, frame etc.