I believe it would require some PCB modifications to add a third ignition driver circuit, since there wouldn't necessarily be 2 pairs of opposing cylinders to control with the wasted spark design in the current board. The distributor PCB would also need to be updated to match the timing requirements of the engine.

@@GhostLaughingMan Since I'm righ-handed, I felt that I would have better dexterity and control over the applicator if I used my right hand to operate it.

It requires commitment and self-discipline to perform the insertion. The pain is significant but persists for only a short duration. Put yourself into "auto-pilot" and convince yourself that there is no option to back out once you start. Record it with a camera or do it with another person around in order to motivate yourself to keep going until the procedure is complete.

For speed-density control, MAP is one of the key measurements for determining the airflow into the engine. However, it is possible to use an MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor instead of the speed-density calculation to measure the airflow rate into the engine. Note that a MAF sensor uses a hot metal wire to measure airflow, so it is a somewhat laggy measurement. Alternatively, you could also use throttle position as a rough estimation of intake air density; however, you would need to apply a transformation to the throttle position value that is dependent on engine RPM in order to effectively estimate air density in the intake.

@@abdullaharmghanmehboob9787 There's a chance the resin would flow underneath the glass and affect the LCD or OLED panel below. But if the screen is likely to get replaced anyway, then it might be worth a try!

I have found that the best way to do cross-pattern rotation is to get the entire car up onto 4 jack stands. Tesla would probably tell you it should only be done with a full-size car lift, but I have done it myself with a floor jack, jack stands, and several short sections of dimensional lumber. The procedure I use for this is roughly as follows. It is probably not the only way, or the best way, but I used it successfully. Also note that you may need to alter the sequence of steps slightly if the weight distribution of your car happens to be different from mine. Either way, be sure to use common sense and stop/backtrack if things start to get unstable. 1. Lift on the designated lift point until the entire side of the car is high enough to place a jack stand under the opposing lift point on the same side. Place a jack stand under the lift point. 2. Gradually lower the floor jack. The side of the car should remain aloft on the jack stand. 3. Place the floor jack under the free-hanging tire opposite the jack stand and lift on the tire. Beware that the suspension will compress when lifting on the tire, so it may store some spring energy. 4. Place a jack stand under the unoccupied lift point. 5. Gradually lower the floor jack. The car should now be supported on one side by two jack stands. Note: From this point on, lifting on the opposite side may begin to pivot the car one direction or another on the opposing jack stands. Each time you lift, verify that the jack stands remain stable and level. If they begin to tilt, go back to the other side with the floor jack, lift on the tire adjacent to the affected jack stand, and reset the jack stand to a level position. 6. Lift on one of the lift points on the opposite side of the car. With one side on jack stands, the floor jack will most likely no longer lift the entire side of the car; rather, one corner will remain on the ground or will only lift partially. 7. Place several pieces of dimensional lumber beneath the tire adjacent to the floor jack. 8. Lower the floor jack so that the lifted corner is supported by the lumber beneath the tire. 9. Lift on the opposite lift point and place lumber beneath the other tire. 10. Repeat steps 8-9 until there is sufficient clearance under the unoccupied lift point to place a jack stand. Place the jack stand. 11. Now that the car is close to level again, the floor jack should be able to lift the entire side of the car. Lift until the dimensional lumber adjacent to the jack stand is freely movable, and remove it. 12. Lower the floor jack and lift on the tire you just removed the lumber from. Now you should be able to place the final jack stand under the 4th lift point. 13. Lower the floor jack and verify that all 4 jack stands are stable and level. Now you should have access to all 4 tires for rotation as you like, or access to the undercarriage for service. Follow the same steps in reverse to get the car back onto the ground.

@@DielectricVideos Brilliant! 👍👍👍 Thank you so much for the detailed instructions!

If Tesla had created two additional jack points, positioned in the middle of the existing jack points on each side, then it would be so easy for DIYers to lift a Tesla and place it on 4 jack stands!

@@DielectricVideos One question about the step 3 of your procedure: place the floor jack under a *tire*. Is there any risk that the tire may roll? When I push the model Y Parking button, does it lock the wheels and prevent them from rolling?

@@jk23233 The tires can roll, although I didn't have issues with this when I was lifting on them. I believe the electronic parking brakes are only applied to the rear wheels, at least on my model year.