It is very dark and opaque unless the model is hollow/thin.

I use this long handle razor and when I ran out of plastic blades, just got a huge pack. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C7DGB2X www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YXZ2W9F

I don't remember exactly, but I bought roughly 10 to 12 rolls at once so it was cheaper ;)

How much do you lower the exposure?

@@kasperia5259 12s, they don't stick below that. I have to main theories. One being I sanded with 120grit and the scratches were too much. And second that my base layer is tough resin so it bends before it pops off. Third my number of base layers was 9. Now it is four. It is better but still does not "pop off"

Surface texture and base exposure makes a difference. The smoother the surface, the less prints will stick to it. Similarly the lower the base exposure time, the less the prints will stick. If all of your prints stick, regardless of settings and resins used, then I would make your surface smoother and make sure to re-level the bed. Exposure times will depend on the resin and printer. It is helpful to print exposure test models that have holes all the way through so you can see how much those get filled in on the base layers (more filled in, lower the exposure), but you'll have to find a good balance for each resin. I also tried the magnetic flexible build plates and it's the same. I ultimately didn't like them and switched back to the standard build plate. The one good thing about the flexible magnetic build plate is you can make one side really smooth and the other side a little rougher, so if you do run into something that is more difficult to get off even with lowered base exposure, you can just flip it over to the smoother side.

@@geek-happens I fixed it by flipping too the smooth side. Prints pop off now and I had the same idea.

They were my first attempt at shell dice. I'll make a video on how I did it, but basically I made a mold of just the dice shapes that are slightly smaller than the original dice. I made the inner shapes with clear that I then just painted random lines and dots on them after they had cured and then put those inner shapes inside the normal dice mold and poured in clear resin with some shimmery yellow alcohol ink to give it an outer "shell" layer.

I wouldn't recommend using UV resin products outdoors for long periods of time. They will become yellow and brittle faster. That being said, I play D&D with printed miniatures outdoors all the time, sometimes they get dropped and break, but I just print more if needed.

Yes :)

You shouldn't need to. The k1 should have something similar already installed on it that you can access once it's connected to your network. I don't have either, so that would be a good question to ask Creality.

If you're looking for a printable table that works a bit better you might want to check out gameframe. It basically bolts onto a normal table doesn't work like stagetop which I think is more suitable for rpg stuff like terrain etc, but works nicer I think for normal board games.

Better because it was originally designed to run on Linux, typically on a raspberry pi. There is now a windows installer available and other options on the OctoPrint website.

I personally don't use multiple baths, but you certainly can. I use shop towels to sop up excess resin from the print before cleaning and then just cure the soaked towel in a UV light before throwing away. That helps increase the longevity of whatever cleaning liquid you use. If you want to use two baths, I would say to use one or the other, rather than mixing. If you do use both, I would do the alcohol after the Resinaway since you'll want to rinse off the Resinaway before curing anyway, though you could just clean your prints in the Resinaway and then rinse/clean it in water after.

Yes, I have various models for sprue mold and cap mold tools available. You can get access to those and several other models by making a membership donation on ko-fi through the link in the description :)

@geek-happens That's awesome thank you, I'll definitely do that. The video was a great lesson on a new style and I'm thankful for you bringing this about. Thank you again!

You can repurpose an older machine. Resources used will depend on how many instances of octoprint you run and whether or not you use a camera with any of them. If you aren't using a camera and processing video, you should be able to easily handle two or more printers on older hardware.

Thank you too for the recipe :)