That's not red.. its magenta lol.. the browning is making me wonder if the magenta used the same pigment as alcohol inks.. they are notorious for browning in the red/pink/purple hues.. to the point i wont use alcohol inks in dice beyond petti now or black and white.. and if thats the case.. the magenta is unsuitable for printing like this

Can you share the stls for the mold enclosures?

You should try Anycubic tough ULTRA resin. Its very flexible and rubbery, its better to mix it with other resins to give them better impact resistance but it does make it softer.

can anyone tell me if this is the same recipe used for reusable picky pads? Thank you

lol the downloadable sirayatech profiles don't work as is, they need to be tweeked. and their customer support nothing back from them for days. Which i was upset about as i do think they are being complacent

Did you cure the models as requested from Siraya tech? Like curing in water or distilled water to take out sulfur? Or just normal curing?

Nice experiment

Thank you for the video. How is the smell? The advertise it being very low odor.

Thank you for this. Some water washable resins can be brittle. How would you rate this one?

meanwhile I use swirl filters and radial flow filtration in the sun and its done , unless you want to do Distillation back to 100%

You can use a mortar and pestle to make smaller flakes to work with

how did this work out?

I am about to print a pedal for a trash can and was wondering exactly this, between silk and matte PLAs, since they are the ones I have right now in the colors that are "reasonable" for it. Good that you also shared the PLA and PLA+. I guess I'll now have a chrome trash can with a bright green PLA pedal then 😂 Thanks for sharing!

Hey, i have a plaster of paris sculpture. I want to make it into a chocolate mold. Do you think this will work for copying the plaster?

stupid final video dirty impossible to see difference

So why do you have to play with the a "Test Print?" Should it not have the optimum settings installed? Sorry Im new!

Hey Do you know if its really a ultrasonic cleaner I mean we all know how china just attach a vibrator motor under a ultrasonic cleaner and said its an ultrasonic cleaner but it was a vibration cleaner Do you know if its really a ultrasonic cleaner If you can try this turn it on and take one of your finger tip in water if it feels bit of current then its a ultrasonic cleaner but if it feels only vibration then its an vibrator I was wondering to get one of these but I'm bot sure if its really a ultrasonic cleaner

You can always use the Resione G217 technique and dip the cured part into a cup of the heated resin and cure it again. The heated resin is watery and gives it a very thin layer and makes it almost like glass. I have no idea how it would work with a clear that isn't G217 but it's worth a try,

how long did you cure each resin miniature?

hi nice video, any upgrades or i stick to the same recipe, coz the video is 2 years old? i want to make few molds with Gelatin coz Silicone Rubber or Alginate are way expensive, pls reply

every color was looking good till you put a drop of black in them.

I'm not sure of the nethod You are using, but are you m of the impression that I saw you in it an earlier video? And maybe it is the case of revealing v. Message employed. Is what I am going to suggest now?Is the same method you are adopting then my apologies. When it comes to adding the ingredients together , it is important that the gelatin is not directly to the glycerin .Ideally first add cold water to the glycerin in a 2:1 ratio, that is tbe amount of water being half the amount of glycerin. Mix well unyil the glycerin has become more fluid.Thatvis it has become less thick tjan itcwas prior mixcing eirh water. You will then add gelatin, thecampubt bring equl too thst kf glycerin but add little by ittle, asmd mske sure itchas been dikuted amd you can't see jt anymore before proceeding to add more. Ot is ery important that when it cimrs to heating. Thisxdhpuld be dome graduskly a d making sure it never reaches bailing paint .Ideally, don't put it directly to heat source but place the contsiner inside another contaner filled with hot water a d let it dissolve gradually. Bear in mind that when the revipe is usex fir tbe purpose of manufacturing suppositories the temperature never exceeds 90 c.

Try using less resin at any one time. Instead of pouring all resin at once you may try adding Jr little. Y little rhR way minimising heat concentration a d allowing ot to disperse. Also take into account the volume of resin against rne volume of gelatine/glucerine used fir mold.Rhe dice you're casting is a huge blob of resin right ast the centre of a rather thin walled old by comparison. You need to make tbe. Mold much wider on rbe sides. Ot needs to stand a d retain its shape without difficulty or persuasion.

That "better than you expected " model looks so cool, i gotta make my own lil cards like that

Thanks for trying this. I will be increasing my gelatin. I wonder how you store this, and how long before you see bacterial growth? Sometimes on other video comments. people say it has happened. I wonder if the way its stored, the brand/source of the gelatin makes the difference in mold growing.

It would be great to know what the melting temperature of the gelatin mold is. That way, people will know if their resin will get too warm during a cure to be used in these molds.

I hope you can redo the same kind of comparison soon between these two recent products: Elegoo Photopolymer Resin Cleaner VS Formlabs Resin Washing Solution. Both available in 5L cans. Especially the part about their ability (or not) to partially cure hence separate liquid resin diluted in them when exposed to UV light (to filtrate out the resin and recycle the cleaning solution, which is a real bonus, considering their price point)

Hello , how did you get the curing strips in the black box ?? Thanks.

Did you give these a good shake before use?

Your biggest problem you are going to have with the gelatin is the heat from the curing process of the resin. Unless you are doing something to keep the resin cool (putting it in the freezer), or using some of the really slow set stuff, that resin is going to heat up past the melting point of the gelatin and deform your mold as it cures.

This video helped me to put everything inside again for moving home. Thanks mate.

Yoo my printer when I try to level it just keeps going down until it eventually touches the bed and it still tries to go down I don’t know why you know how I can fix this ?

it's a smooth ride from here boys...😏

Very interesting idea! Have you tried increasing the amount of gelatin in the recipe (maybe 3 oz rather than 2) to see if that makes a more durable mould that is less prone to tearing? It seems like it would be easy to alter the mix to increase the "hardness" of the rubber-like gelatin, just by adding more of it. Whether or not that would reduce the propensity of the mould to tear is an open question that only testing would answer.

Does SAILSEA has a website? I only found their product on Amazon US and nowhere else :/

THIS. 4:22. The impossibility to cure liquid resin diluted in these dedicated resin cleaners (I confirmed it to be impossible for now at least with Sunlu Resin Detergent and MonoCure3D ResinAway) is what prevents me to switch to such solution and ditch IPA. Not only these products are most of the time more expensive than IPA, but the impossibility to cure suspended liquid resin wit UV means that it cannot be filtered out, hence the cleaner cannot be recycled contrary to IPA, and must be disposed at a local waste collection center when dirty and ineffective. What a waste of money! There are other cleaner detergents out there (Elegoo, Phrozen, FormFutura, BASF, Sailsea, BlueCast…) but I fear they all act the same. @Geek Happens did you eventually find one that allows diluted resin to cure inside when exposed to UV light?

Awesome setup! Just curious, how often do you reuse the same alcohol before calling it?

Is this suitable for repairing bubble holes in epoxy toys : "> ?

Metric system you hear of it?

Thanks.

I've been scouring the internet looking for exactly this. This video should be posted on every 3D maker site. Nowhere have I heard about Defiant's line of resin capable silicon molds until I stumbled on your video. I cannot thank you enough for posting. Thanks!

Thank you for this video. I needed to make a silicone copy of a wearable medical device, and this method worked! ❤❤

Would be cool to see how they mix with a clear resin. How opaque would they get after mixing the dyes in the clear?

This is fascinating. When I get more into DND, i'm going to test this.

I don't know all those, but the esun hard/tough is kind of an engineering resin and has to be cured for about 30 minutes and it gets even better properties when you bake it for a few minutes at 50°C afterwards

If you use glue most of the tge patterns will be in the glue layer, so if you remove the glue from your oribt afterwards you renove most of the effect.

Promo-SM

I saw in another video where someone adviced to freeze the build plate after the print. I just pour very cold water over my build plate after it's cleaned. The prints fall of quite easily

Your gelatin mold is getting smaller and lose shape do to water evaporating from it. Not totally sure about this but i imagine if you start out with no water then nothing should evaporate? Seems like not all recipes call for water.

What type of razorblade did you use?