Very clever. Everyday is a school day.

Thanks got a audi 80 and is go lean

CC=Richer CW=Leaner

How do I know the right criterion

Just made a video about this restoring an old 635CSI. I found the info in an old BMW manual. Pity I failed to see this b4 hand.

This helped me! I was running rich the afm was factory set. Running on LPG i had really toxic exhaust and the car was running really slow. As you know LPG uses more air than gasoline for the correct mixture, mine was running rich on LPG and low on air. Resulting in poor torque toxic smell and bad gas mileage. Ive been fought with this searching for air leaks sensors and so on. But after I have opened the AFM and set it 3 click clockwise making the mixture leaner. The results amazed me, the acceleration dynamic is better, the toxic smell is gone, the car is running really smooth cant belive!

I think you should be careful spreading misinformation saying that fuels are radically different now than it was so many years ago. Yes, fuels have become better. NO that does not change your AFR's or fuel mixture. You're also wrong in saying they come lean from the factory, that is Infact wrong. Nearly every EFI car ever has come from the factory on the rich side. ESPECIALLY Toyota's.

I live in Australia, and we have an old car called a VK Commodore. Some were carb fed and others EFI. I had just done an EFI conversion, and started playing with the AFM. The unit looks identical to this one. Thanks for giving a rundown on how to enrichen/lean.

Clarification: If it's running rich, the opposite would apply, or could I get other issues 2001 vanagon vw 2.3i

i come from the future . its 2023.-

Hello sir, Could you please help me how to adjust my bmw e30 m10b18 afm because i think its too rich? I have an excessive fuel consumption

ON the adjuster screw on the outside of AFM (Alan wrench) Idle mixture, do you have any data on factory setting and which way to turn it?

Should be very careful with this. Most of the time this is the wrong decision, people often overlook other problems and try to cover up the symptoms with AFM adjustment. A rich setting will cause power loss, waste fuel, damage your cat and make the exhaust stink. If an AFM has been tampered it is difficult to get it dialed back in. Early AFM's are more tolerant of sloppy settings as the output voltage is in proportion to air flow rather than flap angle. Later AFM's are calibrated to flap angle and small changes have a major effect on fueling. The spring tension is the major factor but the bypass setting is very important as well, if this is not right it will completely throw off the 02 sensor correction. In my experience, don't do it. My e28 had been messed with and while the wideband 02 got it close on the spring tension it still required a lot of effort to fine tune it before the hiccups and driveability were resolved.

Hi, I need your help. I have 88 e30 m20b25 082 coded afm. To make the mixture richer, which way do I have to turn the black wheel? Clockwise or anti clockwise? Thank you🙏

What car are you working on

Dam that’s the one I messed with 🤦🏻‍♂️

So if my 320i M20B20 when its cold outside it have white smoke from exhaust and rev better at cold, but loses power when warm, what and how many clicks should i adjust? 7 clockwise clicks leaner?

Mine was adjusted by mechanic which way I dont know, car is stalling when engine is cold its around (1000rpm) when engine warms up it drops to 800 and car runs fine, can this be fixed with adjusting or just coincidence?

Isn’t there an adjustment screw already on the AFM?

Thanks for your quick response. I have a 85 manual beamer 318i. I did a mayor tune up, including valve adjustment before the test, but the vehicle did not pass the emissions test. When I checked the oxygen sensor, even though it is new, the reading was 0.8 volts. I disconnected a vacuum line but the oxygen sensor reading was still 0.8 Volts. When I manually adjusted the air flow sensor lean it out (clockwise) and confirmed the oxygen sensor reading, it showed that the O2 sensor started fluctuating. I checked the gases with the 5 gas analyzer and this time the emission readings were much better.

I have a question. Is it possible to adjust the gear moving clockwise leaner or counterclockwise richer using the oxygen sensor reading. If I connect my voltmeter to the oxygen sensor, voltage is between 0.1 to 0.9 Volts. Is it possible to adjust the Air Flow sensor using the oxygen voltage readings instead of the Wide band Air Fuel Ratio Gauge. Thanks Thanks.

85 4runner hasn’t been running in 10 years…brand new battery, ran 12 volts directly to the fuel pump and it runs/ turns on, cleaned throttle body. When I spray starter fluid into the manifold, vehicle bogs and hiccups to start up…that tells me it’s getting pressure. it actually ran for about 10-15 seconds til the starter fluid dissipated. No response when I throttle. Only when I used starter fluid I rev’d it pretty high.

Will this adjust so that all Ohm tests are within spec? Or just a crude adjustment?

i dont know how to open my afm to where i can see this wheel an spring

Thank you so much this really helped me with setting the airflow on my old kadett gsi that im restoring

Thank you! You saved my money, nerves and time with my Audi 80 B4 2.0e 😎

1:32 is my favorite part! i always let off the brakes for that slope

Is this on a 3.0 or 4 cylinder?

His hand has no circulation. Adujust the watch on the wrist first!

Ok im having the same problem but where do I put the wheel

Can anyone tell me how to get it back to factory settings if it wasn’t marked?

I have a 90mm from a 240sx any tips on the best afm tune?

Very good video!! I so needed this. I have an 85 vanagon there is no obvious entrance into the AFM to make the adjustment no screws. Can anyone help, I would appreciate. ✌

At risk of resurrecting an old thread, I did this with my '82 Porsche 928. I moved the spring counter-clockwise by 6-7 teeth. Wow, it makes a difference on how quick the throttle response is now. What this does is actually change the resistance to opening the air meter given the command from your right foot. Out of the factory, it is set for relatively slow (higher tension on the spring or clock-wise). This results in a leaner mixture (a byproduct of the change in the spring tension) as you push the throttle and results in slower throttle response and better emissions (not entirely sure about the emissions part). As I said, the throttle response is MUCH quicker now! Really quick and inexpensive performance mod for an L-Jet system.

How do you know if it’s lean or rich ?

I probably shouldn't mess with this. hopefully my ecu chip will help with more fuel

i hope this works for me .. my e34 is running soo rich that if you come close you will smell fuel from the exshust.. some steam smoke ..

I have a issue on my 89 525i. Driving around 80mph for 5-10 minutes will give a check engine light as long as your still holding gas and light goes away most of the time when you remove your foot off the gas pedal. Sometimes it will go to a complete stop from highway speeds but not stall, just poor revving. Any ideas folks?

Tbh your engine isn't brand new that's why it was that radical..

I love you more😅

Without a A/F meter, you wouldn't be able to know if you're running rich or lean, right?

What the hell? Even though my AFM is a bit newer, there is no way to access the board underneath to move it ever so slightly if the carbon track has worn other than messing with that exact screw. That being said, a slightly newer versions seem to have wiper arm connected to amplifier board.

The only way to correctly change the air fuel ratio is by changing the mapping of the DME. In closed loop operation the oxygen sensor input will determine the duty cycle of the injectors.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/inmbfml4dr50qNU welcome in my Chanel

Great video.. But I find it impossible for your vehicle to run 7 steps out of adjustment in either direction, you’re state must be blending 1:10 fuel ratio ? I just did this to mine 1 tooth richer. It’s like night & day difference owning the same truck since ‘02. I’ve read other articles that 1 tooth makes a HUGE difference, so take small steps.. But 7, the door in your maf must be completely closed off having to force it open, or it’s just wide open. It depends on the elevation you live at also living @ 4300ft above sea level !!! Lol..😂

Get your hand out of the way can't see shi%

Hello Vern2765, I own a 1984 Porsche 928S US version with L-Jet . Recent dyno shows better than stock HP and TQ , but also shows very lean AF ratio. Your video was recommended to me , I am excited to see if the Dyno results can be improved . I have sent your video to one of the USA 928 parts supplier / racer ( Carl Fausett ) . Gonna see what Carl says . I hope i can use your solution . I hope maybe i can do this adjustment myself . I was told to turn the dial 11 clicks counter clockwise . I hope you get my message , and can reply . Thank you . ....Susan Jan 2019

my sensor spoiled, I installed in its place a tps sensor that replaces the original card and reads 0.24 volts up to 5 volts

Problem with the click method, on my aw11 mr2 anyways, is the fp is designed to turn on if I lean the wheel too many clicks. In the end by clicking my AFM, I am just trying to compensate for a bad part or faulty wiring. I clicked right and left and each one begins to change the vehicle along with adjustment of the air bypass which leans out the system as well. After I put ECU out of diag mode, the system ends up running better in the factory position. My car has an FP switch, TPS, and other timers on the AfM that work with the ICV and dist and injectors making this kind of adjustment only ok for a few clicks in either direction. It's a good method to diagnose the vehicle, however, in the end, if the ECU isn't adjusting for variations in the octane and temperature at the factory setting, them it's either a bad AFM or other parts linked to it.

My 1981 has a rough idle and almost stalls, and I smell unburnt gas in the exhaust. Ideas?