@@parneetsingh4493 red to red, blue to black, and yellow to white

Thankyou

@@parneetsingh4493 you're welcome

@jmpaq51 Thanks for the info

I assume so, because the motor controller is sealed with silicone gaskets, but I haven't tested yet if it's waterproof.

I mean is it okay to take bike out on rainy day?

One last question, what is the top speed when you pedal and throttle together

@parneetsingh4493 I didn't test that, but I assume it can reach almost 30mph if I would pedal hard while giving full throttle

@@DavidKennamerphotography what does it sound like when you give it throttle?

@@ElectronicLab. Nothing, will not run. Display comes on shows errors. motor will run slow when I connect learn wires.

@@DavidKennamerphotography tell me the errors you're getting on the display

@@ElectronicLab. Flashes between E001 & E005 . There is also a red triangle on the left side of the display with an ! in it. What I think is the battery gauge at the bottom of the display shows empty although the battery is fully charged.

@DavidKennamerphotography what voltage is your battery?

It also has a warning sign

@thomasgoheen1895 The motor controllers manual says: "E002 = brakes" So I would recommend trying to unplug all the brake wires and see if that solves the problem.

@@ElectronicLab. I have unplugged all the brakes and when I power it on it sounds like the motor is running, and the speed shows it’s going 25mph without the tires moving at all. Any recommendations? Thanks

Try switching around the three thick motor wires until it spins

Ps, If you scroll through the comments from this video, you might find the perfect configuration for the 3 thick motor wires

Try switching around the connections from the 3 thick wires going from the motor controller to the motor until it starts spinning. The white wire is usually either a motor temperature sensor or a motor speed sensor, which is not needed to use this motor controller.

@@ElectronicLab. Hi, new update: I can hear the rub motor beeing activated but it's not spinning (color matching the pair). After switching the 3 wires as you suggested it spin very little (just little kick) but I can hear a very loud noise from the motor as if it was going to break. Only the color pair doesn't give me that terrible noise but it doesn't even spin lol. Also I've connected the 2 green wire together on the controller that rotate the wheel without me pressing the throttle (As soon as I turn on the display the hub motor turn itself) so I disconnected the green, and still can't figure out what is wrong now ... any other idea you may have for me?

@kayriesshin6533 I've already had a similar situation where either the motor sounded like it was spinning or it was very jittery for a few seconds, but all I did was continue trying different wiring configuration until it worked. The 2 green wires are most likely a direction switch, which have to be connected for like 3 to 5 seconds in order to change the direction.

@@ElectronicLab. Hi =), Okay I found the combination that made the wheel spin now (from the Hub Motor to Controller: Blue to Yellow, Yellow to Green and Green to Blue). However, I can still hear a terrible noise from the motor =/ I don't think id even throttle with this insane noise... originally from pedal assist when it activate the motor it is not this noisy... I was expecting to be around the same noise. Do you think there's something I did wrong again ?

@kayriesshin6533 continue to change the configuration because I remember also seeing my motor spin, but making a noise as if there is something damaged. To save time, maybe write down the configuration you're already tried. (You can leave the 5 thin hall sensor wires as is)

@esqueue I ended up using 4awg copper stranded wire and made 3 turns as the secondary coil. But what is also important to get good welds, is to strictly use copper electrodes, use a relay at the 120volt primary coil and not a solid state relay, and yes sharper electrodes will give you better penetration with less power or shorter pulse time and talking about pulse time, make sure to have proper pulse length, between 10ms and 300ms should be plenty range. Cleaningwise, I don't go crazy, I just use a Dremel to flatten the surface from the old nickel strips if the cells are salvaged (I do recommend using a Dremel if everything fails). I also recommend getting the electrodes I used (linked in the videos description) because it has a pressure switch that closes at a certain pressure, which should give you consistent welds.

@@ElectronicLab. thanks

You're welcome!

@minutemarlow4291 you're motor doesn't come with a throttle cable, but it does come with a cable that has 3 thick wires and 5 thin wires

@andyb7754 The reason why I put a 100watt resister in the description is because the 50watt resistor I used in the video, is because it became hot enough for me to mount it to a heat sink, In theory the 100watt resister I linked in the description should be able to stay kind of cool for it not to need a heat sink. also wiring wise, if you look at the pictures from amazon, you can see the bottom of the capacity tester were it indicates plus and minus for the battery holder and two "R" terminals for the resister (polarity doesn't mater for the resister).

I just added to my patreon the 3dprinter file for the enclosure I designed for the boost converter: www.patreon.com/ElectronicLab

Giant bikes are mid-drive. The Speed controller is built into the motor housing. Not exactly a swipe system as hub motors are. Most Mid-drives have the ESC built into the mid-drive motor housing compared to Hub systems that split that Motor and ESC into two different units. I recommend just upgrading the front wheel to a Hub motor and putting the new ESC controller on the rear like a motorcycle with a rear frame basket rack, That way you can also put the extra battery to the rear and counter the frontal weight to the rear so the bike is balanced again and makes the front wheel feels less stiff when turning. There are quite few E-bike upgrade wheel kits for the front wheel that come with everything needed to make as a Ebike. Just snag one of those and a good 10-15ah battery of such voltage and a rear rack system. Then you'll have dual motors now and more performance. Just be careful not putting the metal clamps of a rear rack around the rear frame arms to tight. I use this one www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Z8PVNV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it comes with clamps for non-frame bolt holes. But for my Hyper E-Ride i had already pinhole frame holes. So i didn't need to use those clamps. So if yours does then no need. But if not use those and the rubber pieces to prevent scratching the frame.

If it has a brushless motor, then it should work. Brushless motors have 3 thick wires coming from the motor, and most of the time, 5 thin wires as well, which is for sensing the motors position.

110v

@kingomega150 Yes, a larger battery capacity should work

@amazingamx1255 The motor controller I've installed onto this e-bike gives all the power from the battery to the motor. but in this video, I've actually increased the speed from this particular e-bike without replacing the battery for a higher voltage one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXPLZ3yBm8agZpo

@user-hn7gx5zh7x Some bathrooms only have windows and not a ceiling vent

@@edwardlove4300 I assume if the battery is on one side and thick connector going to the other side, the motor controller should be on the side we're the battery is not.

That's right. The company told me there controller is not compatible as it doesn't have a throttle wire connection. The person told me it's not a PAS but a PES system. I just want a throttle can you please advise me as what to shop for? 😵

@edwardlove4300 If your ebike has a brushless motor (3 thick wires and at least 5 thin wires coming from the motor), then it is most likely compatible with this motor controller I changed out with: amzn.to/46CmSMi

@_ItsGh0st_ I'm pretty sure I was able to use both the pedal assist and throttle at the same time, but there's a setting that has to be changed on the display that will allow you to use both at the same time. I show how to change settings at the beginning of this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXPLZ3yBm8agZposi=tk5mpqpmcc2bZ0DB

@@ElectronicLab. Cheers brother for helping me out, what video do I watch to change the LCD screen?🙌🙏

@_ItsGh0st_ In the beginning of this video I show how to excess the settings from the display: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXPLZ3yBm8agZposi=tk5mpqpmcc2bZ0DB Once you excess the display settings, go to "P10," and select settings number 2, which should allow you to use both the throttle and the pedal assist at the same time

@@ElectronicLab. alright thank you so much for all the help, you are a real one 👆🙌

You're welcome

@@rzhavyy90 from the motor?

​@ElectronicLab. Yeh a small gage brown and white wire I have I video on my channel that shows the problem

@@rzhavyy90 For the e-005, try checking if the the display is programed for 36volts. I have some Information about how to check/change that in the beginning of this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXPLZ3yBm8agZpo

@@rzhavyy90 To fix the e-001 error, check out this video, which has a solution, and also shows what the error codes mean

@@rzhavyy90 Most E-bike motors come with 5 thin wires. black for negative, red for 5volts, and than green, blue and yellow for sensing the motors position. some e-bikes come with an extra white and/or brown wire usually for speed signaling (not always needed), and/or temperature sensing (not always needed)

@@JoseEarthDolera I used these parts to build the capacity tester: ► 18650 battery capacity tester: amzn.to/3RXkNoW (Amazon) ► 18650 battery capacity tester load resister: amzn.to/4cTBM3t (Amazon) ► 18650 Battery Holders: amzn.to/4buzoyN (Amazon) ► 18650 battery charger: amzn.to/3PZzl5A (Amazon)

@mattias77 The two extra wires coming from the display are for a light output(optional), which will give you the same voltage from the battery after pressing down the mode button for a few seconds.

​​@@ElectronicLab.Ok awesome. There is still three wire connector on that controller that is labeled throttle. Do we not use that at all seems like the wire coming from the controller already has a spot that lines up color to color. (Labeled LCD) Also thanks for the response ☺️

So far, from my experience of opening over 10 e-bikes, there was always some way to get to it by removing screws, but if you want to find out how to get to you’re e-bikes battery, then search on youtube: "how to remove/replace the battery from a (you’re e-bikes name and model) e-bike"

thanks

Thank you for the feedback

thanks

Thanks

Thank you!

I'm not sure, but it definitely sounds like an interesting thing to try out.

Any luck yet with the brown wire

Good idea!

The mode button allows you to choose between 3 speed settings, and on the display, you are able to play around with a lot of settings, which I tried out in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXPLZ3yBm8agZposi=syjbgBKD9_uuHbmC

@@ElectronicLab. Alright, thank you so much man 🙏

You're welcome

Most pedal assist e-bike speed controllers don't come with throttle input wires, but to find out if you're e-bike speed controller does have a throttle input, you're going to have to have a look at you're e-bikes speed controller to see if it has an extra pair of 3 wires (usually red, black and yellow). to find out how to get to the speed controller from you're e-bike, you're going to have to search in youtube "how to replace a Huffy Everett 27.5 Inch Class 1 eBike, 20MPH, 7-Speed, 350W Motor speed/motor controller"

Thanks

I linked it in the description. It is included with a motor controller kit

Faster than most cheap e-bikes