Thanks so much for these tips. Just discovered them

Just discovered your helpful videos. Thanks for the clear explanations

I'm a 70 year old newby to woodworking. Great tip, better than using a router, and much safer. Thanks! Still "gots" all my fingers!

Super helpful. I can't get it to print tho.

I'm a newbie. Could you please do a demo on making a tenon from scratch on a piece 2 3/4 by 3/4 thick

Damn dude so sick! I have the Shaper Origin and am looking to make a bass and a guitar....

Great tip I’ve been looking for just the right type of corner trim pine to match my knotty pine T&G paneling. The big box stores have been very disappointing with what they stock. Now I can use the wood I want that matches. Thanks again and disregard that last grump, you made it very clear how you did it.

That's a great tip~! I get my Origin this week and I'll definitely keep this one in mind. Thanks~!

I know this is an old video, but I'm curious why the router bit doesn't damage the template. Is it because the blade is shy of the bearing? If that's the case, we're not actually creating a true duplicate of the template, right? Maybe it's too small of a difference to be worth bothering with, but I wanted to understand the detail.

I wish these had just one more inch of height. 6 inch boards are the sweet spot i find for alot of projects. Still a nice setup thanks for sharing

After listening to you go on and on about WHAT you did, I came away with nothing as far as any knowledge of HOW you did it because you said nothing about the settings on your table saw to make the cuts to remove the middle so the final cut was just splitting the wood into two outside corners. This is NOT a how-to video. It's a how-YOU did this without providing essential information for someone to do this themselves.

Exactly! NOT a climb cut. Cutting downhill vs uphill on the grain is a thing, but it is not a climb cut. Origin won't let you make a climb cut, which would be the opposite direction of the way the dashes move in the cut path.

What router bit you use to cut the fret slots with the Shaper Origin?

Not a climb cut. Why do you keep saying climb cut?

I just ordered and received mine, I can’t wait to use it for resawing and all the things bandsaw can do so I’m thrilled

Just ordered this saw, and based on your video I decided to order the feather board too. I've needed one for the table saw for a long time and this convinced me. After two years are you still happy with the saw?

Love it

Thanks very helpful

Great video lots of info. I didn’t catch how you drag the origin point over the length of your work piece to make the mortise. Another word how do you click and drag to make your with and length of the mortise on the create rectangle. Hope this makes sense. Thank you. 😎

Thanks for the tip. Great idea!

Thank you for a clear explanation of that process!! That is the type of information that is needed. No tik toc dancing and rev'd up Sham wow crap, jus the facts. thanks again

Thanks! Explained from beginning to end just right. Now I get it.

THank you! There must be a "select all" button to save you from having to click on each item.

single pass on each slot? how did you lay out the spacing? In Studio or on tool? and those slots in the MDF, are those just trial cuts or do they have something to do with lining up for the final cut/pass?

I'm thinking about getting a Shaper Origin for aiding in building guitars...do you use or necessarily the Origin plate or Origin workstation for anything?

It turned out beautifully! Enjoyed seeing the process.

Right there with you regarding the Laguna. I lust for it but simply can't justify the current $2000 for it. As a hobbyist I would rarely if ever need its capabilities. I just bought the Rikon and I'm sooo glad I did. Saved a huge amount of money, and the Rikon is one sweet machine. Best wishes, and thanks for the video.

Magswitch

the model number in your description is dyslexic 10-3061

Round over router bit much faster just as good end results much cheaper.

Thanks for this video.

I’ve had my Shaper Origin for about a month now. Usually use it for cutting joinery but I’ve gotten a lot of pointers from your videos, thanks. So when you cut this design, I’m curious how you approached it. The “lines” of the ivy are essentially narrow shapes (as opposed to a line) so if you used the engraving bit wouldn’t you have an outline of those shapes? They look too detailed for a standard spiral bit. How do you fill in the black area so it looks like the original filled image?

Camera keeps moving, I'd suggest reconsidering that technique. Sorry to whine

Nicely done. So far I haven't tamed my shaper like you have, but I am hopeful.

Thank you for this video! I’m having trouble getting outside trim and might use your idea.

Wow. This tool is the coolest tool I have ever seen. I am for sure getting one of these plus the work bench and accessories. Probably sell one of my cameras for this.

I make charcouterie boards too. I have a branding iron with my name and hometown on it. I burn it on the bottom. I think thats where personalization belongs. Your boards are very nice. I like them both equally well. very ni

Nice setup. Shouldn't the featherboard be pulled back so it's not applying pressure past the cut?

The hole fits inside the circle guide on the shaper. You can helix cut as deep as your bit and shaper will allow all in one pass. On another note, the smacking you’re doing every few words is annoying. Struggled to watch the whole video.

Is there a particular tension you use on the blade? I get a drift toward the fence when I resaw. I do have the stackable feather board and will give that a try.

This is really smart. I've cut a couple telecaster necks with my shaper and wish I had something like that for being able to go back and refine the truss rod slot.

Great tip. I just did a big intense engrave job.

I like it. One time I realized the piece being removed was big enough I still wanted it to stay put because I needed it to support the Origin. Figuring there is a spoilboard behind it anyway, IO just popped a couple appropriate length brads in and all was great.

Nice work on vids. Try positive .02 or .03 for initial cuts until you get to the desired depth. Then creep up on the offset by .01 at a time until you achieve dimension. Cleans up any weird movements you may have had on the rougher materials or climb cutting.

Thanks

how's this holding up a year later?

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Seems really close to the edge for a mortise. Did it hold up ok?

Not tried this myself yet, but maybe instead of channelling it like that and having to make multiple incremental passes you could have cut the piece in half again and then set the table saw to the required thickness of the corner trim and the blade depth to the required internal depth and make two passes with that at 90 degrees to each other?

Thank you for taking the time to share this review - What made you choose the 10-3061 over the 10-305? It appears you are pleased with the decision, but didn’t know if there was anything in particular that swayed you towards the 3061. Thanks again for your review.