I did jlt intake, spd 3 inch hi flow catted downpipe, and 3 inch duals with x pipe on my 14 with an oz tune that has been adjusted to more of a performance base than their regular tune. Not sure how much power im making. Guessing around 400-420 crank or so on 89

i took my 2016 Chevy Traverse Lt AWD to the auto parts store they put on scan tool Found out bunch of codes spark plugs, coil packs and malfunction bad throttle body making service traction control and stability light on the dashboard to come on

What if you have a top mount and there’s no code because it’s custom tuned😅

Jesus fuck bro just get to the fucking point

lol I feel like this video was made from my Yukon it’s doing all of that

I have a 2010 Camaro SS I just got was driving on the highway and the service stability light came on my RPM gauge stopped working and the car had zero power and I barely got it off the road. I turned it off and turned it back on and now it seems to be running fine. I changed the throttlebody but a week later the car did it again do I need to probably check the plugs next?

Cheers ❤

Bottom line, whatever could be wrong with your car may or may not be a problem with the ECU.

2015 chevy captiva 2.4 liter ecotech 170 thousand miles keep oil changed regularly..the only thing I have to replace about once every two years is the 2 manifold selinoids but they are cheap and easy to replace

2017 to 2019 2.0 ecoboosts, avoid! 2020+ models they fixed the block design causing the head gasket failures.

I have a 2020 2.7L, and honestly I love it. No issues up to 75k miles (I know that seems like a new engine at this point), outside of a little oil burn but not surprising with a turbo. My 8-speed seems smooth, but I am doing all the recommended maintenance. I love how responsive this engine is and prefer it over the last couple of trucks I've had. Only downfall is prior to 2021 they are only rated to tow 6600lbs, which for me is fine, but I feel like it takes a lot of people who want a truck out of that market. The 2020's take regular gas, and I get 19/20-23 mpg.

So. When shopping how can I make sure not to buy one with AFM? If I stick solely to 2500s? Safe ?

It’s a great engine like anything else if you take care of it. Always use motorcraft products no excuse I have one with 208k miles never had any issues not even trans issues. always use synthetic oil and filters.

Very good information in the video, helped alot! Thank you!

I got old ford fiesta 1.3 petrol engine and i discovered a little leak around the valve cover seal and it leaks a little bit on one side nearby sparkplugs.But oil lvl is stil good.I ll replace the seals soon till then keep the engine clean with break cleaner.😂

S55 doesn’t have forged pistons. Only the s58. Rods aren’t forged on both.

M52TU

Looking at upgrading my lmm, don’t do anything crazy with it, looking for a bit better fuel economy and longevity out of the motor. Would you suggest the PPE xcelerator BEFORE upgrading the exhaust. Looking to do pcv reroute, lb7 up pipe etc etc, any advice would be appreciated! Thanks

I have a 2015 chevy tahoe lt, I'm replacing the oil pump, and i cleaned this sensor with electrical spray cleaner!! I'm hoping 🙏 to get it done this week and nothing fails. ANY RECOMMENDATIONS PLEASE AND THANK YOU.!

😅how many cans of food is that cat is getting paid 😅

Quality information thanks 🍻

Ok mine is a 2008 nissan pathfinder 4.0 at night we will be going down hwy and battery guage starts fluctuating headlights go dim or bright depending on battery guage. Oreillys tested alternator, battery, and starter. Alternator and battery test good, starter tests bad at 60 amps. I replaced the alternator in may because it was not putting enough volts out to recharcge battery. They said the starter could be causing a drain on battery while running. We have never noticed starter dragging to start engine. What are your thoughts?

All true All true! I love the "Corn Binder" 7.3 . My 4r100 is pretty good too for all the talking down I do to her. I go around and around with the glow plug solenoid but the truck is a beast. I do have the torn seats and she never has been under a hose.

I am looking into this because I have a weird steering problem. If you didn't know you would think a bad tie rod or ball joint was causing it. The vehicle is not undrivable but sometimes I notice a bit of a sway in turns and also I feel it when changing lanes. My steering also does not feel as precise as it used to. It is not yet causing abnormal tire wear but that may be because I had it aligned. I have a 2017 Nissan Rogue Sport SV (AWD). It is drivable but the steering seems a loose or imprecise. What bugs me the most is that when I have gone to 3 different shops none of them were able to find anything loose. It is frustrating because I know something is wrong yet none of 3 different mechanics (one of which was a Nissan dealer) were able to find my problem. If it is not a bad strut I don't know what it is since it will have exhausted all possible ideas. I even had them check bushings. I went back into the Nissan dealer's service area with one of the mechanics and shook a couple of things myself and I could not feel anything loose. It is driving me insane! I hear they are oil shocks and struts but do they have to be leaking to be bad? Also there is a possibility of a bad spring. I may even be better off with all new shocks. struts and springs. I would just have to explore pricing on all of that stuff and see if I decide to just get an OEM from strut and replace the bad one. I will have to look into it and see if I can afford to do them all. I am also aware that these vehicles have a steering angle sensor that can cause problems if it is bad or just not calibrated. Maybe the darned vehicle is just cursed. If I drove any other vehicle there is a strong chance it would not feel like that!

This past weekend returned to Ford since my 2003 Ford Explorer. Traded a 2018 Subaru Outback 3.6 with 91k miles. Purchased a 2025 Explorer ST. 84 miles, most obtained from drive from dealer. Went to garage next day and received a Powertrain Malfunction / Reduced Power notification on the dash on the Ford App. WTH? Perhaps Ford should include a Forscan code reader w/spare tire!

If someone bought a truck with this engine that failed what can they swap it with? 5.3?

My battery warning light is on and all my light flicker. Both the battery and alternator checked good.

Very informativ vid 👍 Anyone that can show where MAP sensor is located in my Mazda 5 2010 diesel? 😊🇳🇴

I hear it’s common for the cam bearing to wipe out I rebuilt a 5.9 magnum for my 85 dodge that’s all I replaced every thing else was fine

Every day I drive a 2024 Chevy Colorado with this Engine for work and have put 17,000 on the Truck. The Average MPG reads 22. I would say there is definitely something wonky about the Transmission. Also it already threw a check engine light at 45 miles...hahaha lol Evap...

I Love dodge since I was a kid, I'll say with any make do your maintenance and the vehicle last alot longer, Gm has the same issues, but are a bit worst stop bashing dodge/ram

have 2002 2500hd with 6.0 an 5 speed manual. 390000 miles an still working every day pulling 16 ft enclosed lawn care trailer.

My 2002 F150 with the 2 valve 5.4 runs like a champ

I get weak crank just got new starter in wish me luck installing.

My shop sees 2.7 failures because lack of oil changes &/or a hot tune. The less u modify this engine the longer it will last. Also I would change oil before 5k miles. Oil already getting black at 3k miles, which would be the perfect time to change. Dont go by the oil life monitoring system, u will destroy your motor. We dont see any 2.7’s where a person avoids the 2 above issues.

The 7.3 power stroke is more than driving or towing from here to there, its about creating something unique to yourself and powerful. The cost/benefit is there. Even an expensive buy can be upgraded for about $5,000 which still brings the overall price to way less than a new truck with similar performance.

Are PCM codes generic for all vehicles or do manufacturers attach descriptions that are specific to a given model?

Not that old engine? The 3.0TT came out in 2017... It's 8 yrs old

They seem to have high oil consumption from what I can tell, every one I've worked on a had low oil some to the point of oil light flickering. Plenty of examples of dropped rods too resulting in catastrophic failure.

I just want to clear some things up. A cold air intake is not necessary for these cars on stock turbo. Changing the air filter to an open ended air filter is all you need to do. Intercooler will get you 20-30hp gain. An intercooler only ST will always dyno out to around 240whp(stock is 222whp). The stock intercooler in the ST is a parts bin item. You will find the same intercooler in a ford Fusion, Explorer, and so on... You should also look into charge pipes to keep you running consistent. Stock charge pipes are made of rubber. Enough said... Do not mess with your fueling. You will not make over 300whp with stock turbo. I literally bought a powermax turbo ($1,000), a depo racing intercooler ($300) and made 300whp. I did not buy a down pipe, no exhaust, no E85, no cold air intake. Your problem making power in these cars comes from the garbage intercooler and the hair dryer of a turbo that they come with. This vid has knowledge behind it but isn't 100%...

Very informative and to the point. You've sold me on the 6.1

The purge valves on the 1.5 ecoboosts should be recalled. The engine shuts off when driving. Ford is the most negligent manufacturer!

Good battery, new alternator, starter sounds whiney and like it struggling to start it but does. What's that mean?

Thanks man !

bro clean ur desk, u dont need that many props lol

I should swap my 2.0 ztech into with my 4 speed into a nice escape my focus worn but i had it since new in 2003 and i gave it to my mother afyer her kia engine fail and its solid

99 rt Dakota. Still out handles lots of new cars in the mountain roads, taking advantage of that torque monster ……rusted out body panels , and. That’s my only complaint

A symptom I had on a 75,000 mile Subaru Forester was weird. For a couple of months whenever I drove over a rough part of a road the dashboard would be triggered with several trouble lights. I would clear them with my installed Scan Gauge unit. This happened multiple times. Then one day all of the lights would come on and I couldn't clear them, and had to get home in limp mode. After a couple of weeks of chasing codes and sensors I noticed the scanner said 11.2 volts. So I replaced a two-year-old premium battery. No trouble codes but still low voltage. Replacing the alternator was the solution. You get "no communication" messages on the CAN-Bus system if the voltage is low. Duh. I felt like the dummy who wonders why his laptop is acting funny because its battery is low and isn't plugged in : -) My guess is that the alternator was failing on rough roads because the brushes were bad enough to respond to jiggles.

How is it possible to be so inefficient with almost 6 liters of displacement...... Not even getting into mds issues, lifter failures, poor quality control and most importantly cheap metals. Theres a large list of excellent motors for modifying, the 5.7 "hemi" aint one of them. This is not meant as disrepect to anyone who owns a 5.7 motor just putting some truth out there. Seeing alot of comments saying things like "the 5.7 is a great motor!" again not saying its the worst thing ever but lets stop the cap plz.

Can't see a 4 cylinder with a turbo charger being able to be sustained in the long run. Especially when the truck will be pulling & hauling stuff. I will always gravitate to either V-8s.