For those who don’t speak English, I attach written text you can translate via Google, or other means “Spearguns are trade-offs when it comes to design What you gain on the slides you’ll most likely lose on the seesaws You have to be careful with how you modify, or you may compromise the function of what was a good speargun. I don’t usually modify spearguns. I find it cleaner and neater to build a new one. But this once, I thought I might try to upgrade and oldy and a goody Back in 2006, I built what was a light Euro pipe gun, but made from wood. The goal at the time was to make a speargun suitable for taking pinky snapper in Melbourne’s Port Phillip Bay. I wanted something very accurate but manoeuvrable enough to track the pinkies as they ducked and weaved The stock was minimalist, reducing water resistance. The spear was narrow, 1/4 inch in diameter, making the gun easy to swing, and, once the spear was launched, the spear flew fast. With the co-planar rubbers and elevated handle position, the forces were aligned, resulting in very accurate spear flight It’s been one of my more successful builds. Since I made it, it’s accounted for hundreds of pinky snapper, quite a few flatheads, some King George whiting and sundry other species. Its narrow body is really easy to push through the water, allowing more time in the kill zone. There’s no doubt the design has been fit for purpose. But I decided I wanted to change the design a little. I’ve set myself a goal of going to the Mediterranean and shooting a three kilogram dentex Some people may think this a bit ambitious for someone at my skill level, but let an old man have his dreams. I need the gun to be better suited to take the similar, but larger and stronger fish. Hopefully the modifications will make it fit for the new purpose. The first modification will be to change the spear to 7mm diameter. The heavier spear should have more range, better penetration through fish flesh, and be less likely to be bent by a struggling fish But it will mean a heavier gun with increased recoil, and the spear will fly slower. I’ll put in a shorter spear, which should reduce the weight a little. The trade-off for the shorter spear is the front overhang may reduce aiming accuracy a little. Perhaps. Maybe. Whatever, I’ll just have to live with it. The gun has a closed muzzle : there is just enough room for the 1/4 inch spear and the monofilament shooting line to pass through. I’m a bit worried that a fatter spear might jam, so I’ll get rid of the thicker mono shooting line, and replace it with a thinner one, giving just a little extra clearance. The thinner mono should be strong enough, and it might let the spear fly just a little faster. Tying a float cord to the gun decreases manoeuvrability (and this applies to both tethering and breakaway rigs) Historically my preference has been to use a drop rig. This has been my practice for Port Phillip snapper, and I suspect it will remain true for Dentex in the Mediterranean. I think it’s best to let the fish run, and exhaust its energy, before pulling it in. So you may need to drop the gun after the shot, and retrieve it later. But the Mediterranean can be deep. I decided to add a reel, as is common practice in the Mediterranean. I generally don’t like reels : they can spool (jam) when under tension, and they make the gun more bulky. But I did a search and found that there are some quite small reels Kind of cute I think. Anyway, I want to use the reel as a fish finding device, not as an aid to fighting a big fish, so the reel doesn’t have to be big and it should be less likely to spool. The scenario I dream of is to hit my three kilogram dentex, and let it swim off with the spear while I head for the surface, unspooling as I go. After I’ve got my breath, and allowed time for the fish’s first burst of adrenaline to dissipate, I can use the reel line to find where my quarry has holed-up in the rocks. To fit this gun, the reel needed a base. and I had to chop a mortise and inset a base into the gun. The previous set of rubbers pushed the 1/4 inch spear pretty well, but more power might be needed for the heavier spear. If I find it needs more power, I plan to replace the existing rubbers with shorter progressive rubbers. Will it work? I hope so. The theory seems sound, but the only real way will be to use it in the water.”

My original description for the gun was given at kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6CbiJVvf75peMUsi=0u85RT_lKVbD3xft

Erratum : I said the gun was initially built in 2006 : that was wrong, it was in 2010

Good idea

What are your opinion on using oil finishes vs epoxy or polyurethane?

How aren't more people more people watching your videos? Joined a bit late, but your videos helped me answer so many questions I had making wooden mid handles. Keep it up

Muito criativo esses contra peso. Show!!!

Não entendo nada que vc fala, mas gosto do seu trabalho

Falo do Brasil. Show sua empunhadura

Thanks. Veryj nice. 👏👏👏👏

Good video

Thanks for your videos they are so good

Really enjoyed your presentations Rick. Good to know what can be done with locally sourced Timbers. Tony - Qld.

New supporter mo pala idol😊

Great video series

I like your video but thats gun Made video ples i will made at home thats gun

Nice Speargun sir, beautiful handle I like your design.

When are we testing this :)

Nice lookin rig! Double band it an get at it! Happy hunting

does it have safety mech?

😚 'promosm'

Hell yeah.

Hello firend whats your name wood

Boa noite gostaria de saber como e o nome dessa cola de madeira.

Dude. I wish you show mote of your work and less of your face!! I guess you love too much to see yourself on screen!

Los felicito por ser tan injeniosos por favor merregalan las medidas q Dios los vediga

*_wooow Amazing_*

Gostaria de o cisterna de gatilho desse arbalete

That's a really cool weapon.

你好，你的whatsapp是什么？

Good morning mr.bahan yg sangat bagus sekali untuk membuat tembak ikan.mantap semoga hari yg menyenangkan.salam sukses kawna

oh my dream trigger mechanism. i hope i have that one someday

I have received comment from a person who is familiar with using these mechs. He suggests that in his experience, weakening of the stock and/or the handle/stock joint is not an issue in the practical world of everyday use.

Nice gun, I shoot a very similar style gun 125cm, 3 x 14mm bands that I originally had a 7.5 riffe shaft on but it flexed to much so I put on a 8mm south african shaft. 8mm works great with the neptonics and trigger mechanism and 3 bands. For king season next month, I'm tempted to go to 16mm rubbers or build a different gun. With your break away set up if the fish fights in the opposing direction will it break away or bind? I've just never seen that style before.

I use a bent pin so that I can drill perpendicular to the face, Then I glue my pin in with epoxy. Your method is nice because it removes the need to glue the pin to keep it straight

I like it!

👍 Credits for originating the name have to go to Rick Trippe. The gun is good for big fish in low viz. very easy to swing. Good for yellowtail, but perhaps another design would be better for tuna on a clear day.

I like it! I'm building something very similar for yellowtail. But I'm realizing how difficult setting up a perfect gun is. I'm already planning a new gun. Perfect name as well. Cheers

I’ve had a question . . . It’s my normal practice to put a seal coat onto the gun once I’ve done the basic shaping and sanding. Usually, I apply Everdure or similar brand of penetrating epoxy. But I have used thinned polyurethane floor varnish and that seems just as effective. Then I do the ballasting and balancing in the seawater, take the gun home, wash it down, dismantle all the hardware and start to work on fitting the ballast, adding the sign-writing, applying coats of varnish (usually three or so) and applying anti slip to handle and butt. (Thanks for the question : it helps me identify where my vids can be improved.)

Good stuff Ric. I like to use very dense and durable timbers for my handles. The additional mass helps counteract the weight of the mech aiding in minimal rotational forces felt through the hand. Lots of good Aussie timbers suitable for this. I also add fibreglass to the trigger guard and a stainless steel base plate for protection of the handle.

Keep up the great videos mate. Really enjoying them.

Thank you so much sir! This is very useful! Can I put the ballast in the butt of the speargun? Or must be somewhere in the middle of the gun?

At this stage, it’s important to keep the stock in the square. Don’t round-over the corners, as this will make it much more difficult to fit the trigger mechanism, and to cut the pockets for the roller pulleys.

Way to go mate its great teaching people. The more people like you would be better instead of hiding your knowledge

For those who might be interested : the piece I was inserting into the stock is/was a fitting to hold a stretch-rubber breakaway.