So when I try to slide the tube off, the tube will not slide past the upper bushing that covers the pins. It’s like the bushing is stuck in there. Any tips on how to move the tube past this bushing?

Brilliant video, helped me get my dropper nice and smooth again. Thank you 👍👍

Don’t suppose you would know who might have these service kits, I really need the brass pins as mine is worn badly??. 😮

Daft question, since the demise of CRC qs we know it, can you still get the service kits for these?

now what if that top bolt wont tighten or come out when i try loosen it and theres still play

I added another spacer, perfect, thanks

If the post has a left to right wobble, couldn't you use 2 of the other 6 slots that might still be tight?

I have re-watched this multiple times, every time I service my post. Thank you, RP!

Do these brand x dropper posts have much side to side play ?

Thank you for the excellent presentation about bleeding hydraulic bicycle brakes.

Thank you for this video. Do you have a link for the service kit. Thanks

Hey quick question. can I increase the drop? I have a 100 and it is about 30mm short to my liking. thanks in advance

Thank you for giving me the confidence to just unscrew the top cap. Mine just wouldn't budge.

Easy peasy - thanks a lot!

This also works on the v1 post aswell. Nice straight forward video so that anyone can do the job with minimal skills 👍👌

can you please compared this method to the (simpler) gravity fed way described in this video? I'm somewhat confused why there just isnt one "really solid, easy" way to do this...one of these ways must be really the "best" :). thanks! :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/pV68p4CIf9qhrdE&ab_channel=SydFixesBikes

What the heck is a „play“? Sorry English is not my first language!

This was so easy to follow!! Fixed my slow post issue!!!!

While this is Shimano's official bleed procedure, for the life of me I don't understand pushing all that dirty fluid into the relatively clean lever. The dirty fluid is isolated at the caliper where the heat is generated as well as the pistons and seals being subjected to filth, so it makes so much more sense to do a gravity fluid flush first to get all of that dirty fluid out at the caliper and once that's done, begin pushing up. This isn't a knock on you, but rather a knock on Shimano.

The brand x dropper service kits are sold out everything at the moment. Is the pro koryak service kit compatible? Looks identical to what I’ve seen from my post and your video.

Disagree. Gravity bleed is the best way. This is the inferior way. More complex. Filthy fluid through the lines going up. Air bubbles possible in the system. Just not a good and dated method. Gravity bleed. All day long.

Hi, great video. I will try this myself. Could you make a video on how to service Specializedo "egg beater" Command Post IRcc, 12 position micro-height adjustable, alien head design, bottom mount cable routing, remote adjust SRL lever, 30.9mm, 125mm travel. If you don't have any in stick I could send you mine. The problem with this post is that after 2 months of service it ejected the main sealing gasket while it was pressed down and left in that position during the ride in the back of my car. Service dude said he installed new service kit parts.

You bloody legend! Great video

Why would you do all this vs just a gravity bleed? Puck bucket of clean fluid up top, drain from bleed port until the fluid runs clean, close bleed port, squeeze out any bubbles if any, insert plunger remove the oil bucket, reinsert lever screw and done. I don't get what benefit there is to pushing vs gravity draining.

Thanks for the easy-to-follow video - will definitely be doing this with my dropper soon. Currently on my second Ascend, with the first one's cartridge completely failing (going down when you sit on it and up when you get off it) in three months, and this second one requiring all my strength to push down. They don't seem the most reliable post, but maybe it's just my luck. Would definitely go PNW instead in future.

Great video very helpful.

Great vid👌i noticed just under the seat clamp the collar on mine came a smidge loose, so i just done it up hand tight, haven't had any problems🤔the bushing seems to be still intact?

It's amazing to me that your voice is so quiet I have the volume all the way up on my phone no other background noise and it's very hard to hear you and I know it's not my hearing. And the other gentleman who uses an empty spray bottle as a nice clear voice for gosh sakes speak up and we can't hear you if you're turned away from the microphone when you speak

Hi, I have a onoff Pija with the same gas cartridge inside and it's supposed to be 125mm but 4 years after the cartridge only extends 8cm ( it works perfectly and I can even hear the full extension bottoming out click) do you know some way to fix this? Or it's new cartridge time? Thanks

There are better ways of doing a bleed and flush. Pushing dirty fluid up into the levers is not a good technique, hence your fluid still seemed to be dirty at the end. Again, every person has different pov, this is how I've been taught to do.

Very clear and easy to follow, thank you! Saved me a few quid (LBS want £25 for a dropper service)!

Struggling to remove the actuator, even with a strap wrench! Any suggestions?

Helpful!

How to service almost everything. Have tools and know how bloody thing works

My post is struggling to return to its full height. Do you think this will fix it?

Is this the shorter version of the mud guard or just the normal size

I just bought one of these posts from Chain Reaction, and there is quite a bit of play in it already, is that normal?

The green thingy at the bottom of the dropper is extremely tight and I can’t open it. Any suggest on that?

Thanks for the vid! Super helpful

Good value for the money

Thanks for sharing 👍🚴

You said it was the best way but you are doing too much😂🤣😅🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🇬🇧🇺🇸🇨🇦🇪🇺💯

I dismantled, cleaned, and reassembled everything as described but my seat is only going up about half way. PSI is at 300 but a tiny bit escapes when I remove the pump. That plus the housing and seat post seem to not be gliding smoothly despite how much grease I put on there. Is this both a housing and leaky air pressure issue?

Thank you, very helpful video! I serviced mine today and its soooooo much better. Recommend you watch this if your thinking of doing yours and saving yourself a few $$

Nice, helpful video. Is it the mk1 or mk2 version? Mine also has a little piece of string attached to the bottom part (actuator?). You mentioned replacing the cartridge. My post does return when I compress it by hand, but when I push then release the lever (with the cable still attached to the post), the post doesn't stay down. Any ideas about that?

Opened my post for the first time and the head of one of the two 2mm Allen bolts that hold the actuator was already stripped and I'm unable to remove it, any ideas ?

It look like ran out of CO2 coca cola

Will this service fix the lateral play in the seatpost? Mine has a little lateral play.

Super

Thanks for this, it's an excellent video. I'm a newbie at disc brake maintenance. It seems like it would be fairly simple to bleed air out of such a little system, but I'm amazed at how much fiddling around it takes to get all the air out. I've bought a used bike that I think needs it, but it would be my first attempt. I'm sure your method works, but as a point of discussion, pumping the fluid back and forth kind of confuses me. Doesn't the air always move more easily upwards? Is the air still moving up into the open funnel while you pump the lever to move the fluid down to the caliper or are you pushing air out the top and bottom? If you're pushing air into closed syringe at the bottom caliper, it seems to me the air has nowhere to go? Or you keep the syringe angled upward so the bubbles stay near the plunger and not go back into the line?