I think they are two different weapons entirely lol. If you are a boulderer I’d stick with phantoms or something a little on the softer and very downturn side. If you are sport climbing frequently I’d try the TestaRossa. I wear size 45 euro and a size 43 in the TestaRossa.

5 euro. Feels great! My new pair fit amazing and the side tension is tolerable. I have genius now too that I have to make a review on, I wish I went another size or two down in those, they are a little loose but the toe box is different / feels different

I do own the new katanas. Personally I think if the climbing was relaxed I’d probably pick the katana for the day, but I’d actually wear socks in them 😳 kinda weird but those shoes are COMFY! I do think that the TestaRossas are a great option! I sized down 1/2 a size in my new pair compared to the one in this review. Still love them :D

@@MPHshoots thank you for your reply :) I say this with shame but I climb with very think socks too. Can't seem to decide what to get between Katana and Testarossa..on very thin edging on vertical or slightly slab walls which one do you think performs better? thanks

@@noiseforthealgorithm4668sorry this reply took forever. I think on thin edges I’m more comfortable with testies, but I also downsize HEAVILY. If you like comfort, you might like that the Katana is very very stiff. Hopefully this answers your question! Gonna be making some disc golf content and maybe some crash pad content soon

@@noiseforthealgorithm4668also slab is terrifying. I think the katana would be better if you are doing multip, but I’m a sport kinda guy.

yeah dude! Glad you’re stickin it out with them :)

😂😂😂 the masochism is part of the fun!

I would love to review the genius for you, I’ll spend the next week thoroughly testing em as much as I can, outdoor bouldering, leading in the gym etc. I would say my personal favorite overall climbing shoe is the La Sportiva TestaRossa, they are INCREDIBLE on outdoor face climbing. The grip literally feels like you are cheating (if you like softer shoes) but they are quite painful. The TestaRossa and the Genius are Brother / Sister shoes with the genius being a no edge variant of the classic TR. for bouldering I’d say that the phantoms are good, but I think the Do All bouldering shoe is probably the Drone HV in size 9.5 / 9. They are super comfy and have decent rubber, but the Toe Hooking capability of the shoe is absolutely incredible

I actually have a pair of the Drones HV and was thinking of downsizing my next pair since my current ones are my street shoe size. Which size do you like in the Drone? I actually kind of want to hear you talk about those now too.

@@oldriggins I will have to make a vid on them, I went size 9.5 in mine and I’m a 10.5 in running shoes (Hoka 10.5 wide) they are insanely comfy

(For an aggressive shoe)

@@oldriggins okay I know I said I’d make the vid soon- if there’s decent sunlight tomorrow I’ll do my best to produce a vid about the drones. I really liked mine, other than a slight heel slippage issue (should’ve sized maybe a half size more down.) but I climbed my max outdoors on lead in them! I think for the money they are pretty much unbeatable

Ignore his so-so review and try them. Like the A-10 Warthog, they won't win a beauty contest but they WILL destroy everything in their path!

I think I went a full size down in mine 😂 they are decent shoes, but I prefer grip2 / Sportiva as they use leather instead of synthetic materials. Oracles are really awesome shoes for super steep terrain which is why I loved mine, plus they are badass when you first get em. Only thing I don’t like about them is the upper for people with large volume feet (they tend to not close all the way) hope you enjoy yours!

I replied to one of your comments, but I will do my best to get a vid done on the phantoms! Do you have any specific questions about the phantoms?

@@MPHshoots mainly about its overall performance, capability for bouldering, sizing, and anything else you think might be useful to know!

Hey Jason, the video is currently uploading!

You got it dawg. Just takes a little bit of patience and you’ll be right back into the swing of it :)

So actually leather shoes are the easiest and most comfortable typically! Don’t think cowboy boot leather, more like pure grain / high quality leather. It is decent on slabs, but it excels at face climbing and is pretty good with overhangs. Personally I would get Oracles if you want a lace up slab performer that works well on overhangs but is unique to learn. It’s less comfy but still extremely nice and has a unique toe bump on the inside of the shoe (it also uses no-edge which is really unique and kinda hard to explain!) the rubber stiffness is relatively soft, it uses Vibram XS Grip 2 which is vibrams softest rubber, which personally I love. It excels on small edges ESPECIALLY OUTDOORS, and is decent on smears. Hopefully this helps, if you have more questions you can reach out to my Instagram at @mphshoots

I think I went half a size down, I’ll check for you right now and drop another comment 🙂

Never mind, I went street size in them, I think you could definitely run half a size down and they’d stay pretty comfy as long as you keep ‘em inside and not baking in sun like mine 🤣

@@MPHshoots Thanks!

@@outwildest you’re welcome my dude! Consider subscribing :)

I bought mine half a size down! Sorry for the late reply. They are INSANELY uncomfortable to break in, but once you tough out the pain they become incredible shoes. I’ve warmed up on 5.10c outdoors in them // climbed gym V7 in my phantoms. I hope this helps!

Gonna be making a vid on the phantoms tomorrow angel!

@@MPHshoots thanks for the follow up!!! I’ll be subscribing just for that

@@GlitchMan1011 video is currently uploading. Apologies for the voice cracks lol, I don’t use a script

I have pretty wide feet, but I usually am able to suffer through the pain. All of my toes have large bumps and callouses from how far I downsize, but I appreciate the lengthy comment and I’ll do my best to accommodate! Thank you Jeff :)

I’ve got a feeling we will be talking in all of these comment sections 🤣

Thank you for your unconditional love even tho we have differing opinions. Gear heads need to come together :D

Haha I see your point, but a toe patch and velcro is what sets this shoe apart from the phantom in the first place. It’s not a bouldering shoe, it was designed for being on ropes and hard sport climbing. Laces keep a tighter toe box, allowing for better use of soft rubber. It’s also hard to compare these with the phantoms because they are a stiff shoe, not a soft shoe.

@@MPHshoots Phantoms and Testarossas are both stiff shoes made for power and precision though, with focus on sensitivity, tension (downturn) and soft rubber, so I think its fair to compare them. Also I think you can do some clever fastening design that tightens the area above the toe as well - you can split the rubber in the middle for example, like in the new vapor, and put loops for a strap in that gap.

@@alexbarcovsky4319 TestaRossas are not stiff shoes. They are made with XS Grip2 which is the softest of the vibram compounds.

@@alexbarcovsky4319 I really don’t think you can compare a bouldering shoe with a sport climbing shoe though. They are meant to be used in rotation, not for every style of climbing.

@@alexbarcovsky4319 also just to note Alex- I’m not arguing against your point, I just can’t agree with saying one shoe is bad over the other because they are meant for different things.

okay! Sorry for the late response but I can definitely get into that for you, I’ve been slacking.

Oracle is way different, its pretty narrow and not as sensitive and I feel like it just falls into a different category, although it sure wants to be in the same one as testarossas.

I just uploaded the video!

@@alexbarcovsky4319 tbh I have to agree here. Oracle can’t compare to the TR. Oracle is stiff but is much less comfy than the TR’s.

Thank you broski!

I’ve gotchu! Leopard 2’s will be the next review! :D

Most interested in the evolv oracles personally

MAGO

@@ernestfrigelj2876 already did the magos buddy

@@ernestfrigelj2876 kzbin.info/www/bejne/naDdcox3eMenrdU

Phantoms!