Great videos! Lots of Brackish water where I live. Speaking with the experts at an anode manufacturer, zinc anodes aren't really appropriate in brackish water. They will quickly passivate with a layer of zinc oxide and stop protecting the running gear. Aluminum anodes will continue spalling off and protecting in brackish water and are also fine in salt water.

I know nothing of boats or boating but two questions if I may.. 1) Why are steel bolts being used when surely stainless bolts (of appropriate tensile strength etc) might be used? 2) Is there any steel (ideally stainless) set into the bottom of the boat to which the keel is attached and which would also prevent "hogging"?

Put the camera down when talking and point with something too shaky

i bet an Aquadrive shaft coupler makes these mounts last alot longer, because they have a thrust bearing, eliminating forward/reverse loads on the mounts

What a crappy boat- steel (not stainless) keel bolt hardware?. Galvanized pipe connecting a bronze thru hull? I would recommend scrapping not repairing.

What retard thought it was a good idea to use mild steel? any body knows every structural bold on a boat/yacht need's to be marine grade stainless steel

Some people appear not to be interested in their and other peoples health and lives. It keeps surprising me. Thanks for pointing out! Cheers, Harry

Good video. Maybe you could do one explaining how the hydrostatic release works.

To get that fixed you need a lot of fiberglass, at least an area of 3 sqm needs to be reinforced for that keel

Another indication of the quality of the workmanship is leaving the bare plywood exposed.

And why such a big hole...and why not use the limber hole or at least make a small hole!

😮 A recepie for disaster!

Very useful. Thanks.

In a similar vein, I’ve often seen flush mount car audio speakers installed into the bulkhead taking the mast compression and rig loads. The cut outs probably make nice teak faced coasters…

What an interesting, informative and very well detailed, concise video this is! Subscribed.

I could never go to sea in that even after repair with confidence

Great advice! Thanks for also pointing out, that there must be no "U" in the pipe.

Not in good shape but a least she didn’t loose her keel

Great video and advice

I dont think these keels should be allowed. Stressing is too much and they fall off or snap off. These are not serious cruising boats; more like an in harbour floating caravan

Flat bottomed boats are floating caravans.

That boat must be very close to being a write off, certainly the cost of a proper job in a yard that knows what it is doing would out way the value of the boat????? I would want to know how much the current owner would be willing to pay me to take it away. Still it could have been worse look what happened to the Puritan.

Another very useful video! And yes, on the average yacht the hoses are less thick but the issue is the same. Actually we experienced it with one of the hydraulic hoses connected to the 1974 Mercedes OM636 (which is still running as new by the way) on board our Nic 35. Cheers! Harry

Yep

In just a few minutes you showed some serious things to check when buying a boat.

Just found your channel, it's brilliant. Thank you. You deserve waaay more subscribers, but you've just gotten another one. Those keel bolts and that damage is frightening.

Best video for Blakes servicing on the internet. Thank you so much

You might also mention that, obviously, all structural "glass" repairs really must be done with epoxy resins and never with (long chain molecule) polyester resins. I've sometimes seen some long, very laborious and otherwise lovely repair work utterly wasted at the end, simply by way of using polyester resin. So irritating.

Very interesting video, thanks. Would a more traditional hull construction be more likely to hold up better in a grounding? Would it be easier to repair?

Scrap time

Sawsall time😢

who the hell would build a boat like that?

I can attest to the importance of regular inspection and timely replacement of engine mounts. I didn’t do this and thus recently had to replace all four mounts, the torn but still functional shaft seal, and the cutlass bearing. All that work was not enjoyable - though of course being fixed again is. I have a look (all mounts are easily seen) as part of my pre-start for every sail now.

😂I think the engine mounts was was not the main problem on this boat…..

Yeah I agree those were beyond shot. I do want to mention when putting the drive traine in gear, you seem to indicate there was a problem by the amount of movement. I know the mounts were shot but I dont feel that was excesive even with good mounts. Maybe I'm off base and should be changing mine, your thoughts?

What cost will the owner need to account for when calculating the replacement?

boats glory days are over needs to be scrapped

Very informative video. Ρepair and disposal.

Or, convert the boat into a displacement hull trawler. Leave a 6 or 19 foot mast for a steadying sail, antennas, navigation lights, etc. drop the keel, repair the hull to be watertight and reasonably fair. Fill the bilge with cement for ballast. Would make a slow but decent live aboard trawler.

You can do nothing in the terms of repair. Boat is from 1990's. Dismouting antimould far exceeds the value of the boat. Second option i lot of to do or invest for poor outcome. Simply for the amount of the cost of repair it is possible to buy similar boat with such great damage or defect. Problem is in the design as well. Keel bolts are not aprochable and what material of the keel bots and nuts that came too rusty. It mast be more carbon out than in the structure of the austenite crystal lattice of steel from which the keel bolts and nuts should have been made.

This is the symptom, now look inside. Inc sufficient backing plate?

There is an option 3. I think the sailboat may have reached it's life expectancy. What year is this boat? I see this was posted about 18 months ago.

Really appreciate these vids as a boat owner. Thanks for sharing your expertise.

Thankyou Sir

Wouldn't be going any further than swimming distance from land on her... Sad but totally knackered

Structural liners are a curse. I wouldn't own a boat built like that. I've seen a french built 35 ft boat that had a keel you could swing sideways by hand. The liner had been crushed by a grounding and got totally detached from the hull.

If I could afford the fiberglass, it would get an aluminum keel with a zinc cast bottom. There would be a big wide Tee at the top of the new keel with bolts a good foot wide. Your next video would be a big granite rock with a gash being filled in by rock repair specialists.

Ct1 that'll fix it !

I will check next time on board, 😳

Do you find that keel bolts like this come out promptly? I am feeling like I would take off the keel, tear out the grid, one bit at a time to maintain the boat shape, and then glass in floors and stringers. I am not a pro, and I am thinking the job would take two months including drying time. The amount of fiberglass itch is beyone calculation: Defcon 4. Lay days in the yard alone would be $6K where I live. At least 10-15 gallons of epoxy, plus some Kay-Cell. And an acre or two of roving and stitchmat. A small fortune in sandpaper. A small plastic cup for my tears. Am I wrong?