Yeah I learned a long time ago when to chime in and when not say anything and just enjoy the show hahahaha. In most of those forums, you can tell who the real engine builders are and who's just guessing.

@BruceCoggins That right!!!! Lol!!! With experience come The BS METER!!!! ROFLMFAO!!!!

ROFLMFAO!!!!!!

Very cool! Thanks for watching.

Yes and no...you can remove the weights and install the lockout plate and you can remove the vacuum canister and install that plate but you will most likely need to pull the distributor and advance it a couple of teeth.

Thank you so much💯🫵🏻🥇

What kind of issue are you having? As far as phasing the distributor...all you're doing is lining up the magnetic pickup and making sure the rotor is pointing at the number one terminal. I have a video showing how this is done. Thanks for watching.

I think people get confused because all instructions specifically say to install the timing gears dot to dot (which is the best way to ensure you are not off a tooth) so, they assume dot to dot is where the distributor should be installed. What baffles me is when you point out that dot to dot is the compression stroke for number 6 and not number 1, instead of doing any research, they want to argue. Then they point out that dot to dot is TDC for number the number 1 cylinder without realizing the piston is at TDC on number 1 twice. I made the mistake of chiming in on one of those "debates" about a year ago...oh boy was that a mistake. That conversation lasted for days and days until I deleted the post and then some random guy reposted the photo I used and started it all over again...it generated hundreds, if not thousands of comments most of which firmly believed that dot to dot was the correct way to install a distributor. I eventually left the group because certain people would argue on just about every post and that got really old, LOL.

@BruceCoggins that is the part of "social media" that doesn't become very social... I've had similar conversations like that over the years too.

No, that's how they came. You can buy aftermarket Vortec heads with a dual bolt pattern. If you want to use an old style intake on Vortec heads, make sure to use the correct gasket or else the top of the intake port will be uncovered.

There is no difference either way, but if you buy a lockout kit, it comes drilled for the full advance position.

I have not tested a proform coil but for a street car or a street/strip application, it will probably be satisfactory. I would recommend installing the MSD low resistance bushing in the HEI cap. For racing only, I prefer to use an external coil.

@@BruceCoggins Thanks I just did order the bushing from summit was like $21 ...Do you know I heard people ground that distributor inside the cap and run another ground wire outside as well . Interesting why people would ground it twice . Could you help me out on this ? I also have a new MSD coil 44,000 volts I have not yet open up

I have never ran a separate ground wire to the distributor body...not needed. If it was needed, the factory would have put one there...IMO ;)

@@kennysmith6824 you should be able to match up the old O-ring at your local auto parts store. The accumulator is fairly easy to remove....a large C clamp and a pick to remove the retainer will work just fine. When you remove it, make sure the piston is at the top and not bottomed out. If it's bottomed out, you will need to replace the accumulator.

Thanks, The accumulator is wobbly loose without pulling it off yet. It spins freely too. More that likely it is bad but the brakes and PS work fine. I'll pull it apart and check its condition.

@@kennysmith6824 yeah, keep me posted and let me know what you find. If you need a new accumulator, I found mine on eBay. They are supposed to be pressurized with something like 350 to 400 psi of nitrogen.

​​@@BruceCoggins I got it off today without pulling the unit off the truck. The plunger is weak and does push down. The only ebay unit I found was for a GM 6.2L. I'll probably just put a better o-ring on it and send it. The leak got worse after moving it around yesterday. Too bad these aren't easier to find. Every place just wants to sell you the remanufactured unit that are hit or miss.

Check these guys out and see if they have an accumulator for your application...www.powerbrakeservice.net/hyacshgo.html

No, I have not tested that one. I have used it multiple times over the years but have not tested it on my machine.

Wow, that's a lot. Thanks for sharing.

@@BruceCoggins At the crank.

This is a 602 crate engine and yes, it has been ran for a while. The internals look great and very clean but the outside obviously has a thin layer of build up but overall this engine looks very good. There is no paperwork probably due to the fact it was originally purchased some time ago by someone who eventually sold it to the guy I got it from. I have no idea of the history of this engine so that's why I'm looking it over before it gets sold.

@@jeremygoodin6764 it's a hydraulic flat tappet....it needs a hydraulic roller though IMO

Well, that depends on what you're talking about. Installing the timing set, yes...trying to start the engine, no.

@@JohnDoesItAll Yes, by moving the magnetic pickup, the timing will change. Adjust the distributor to compensate. Thanks for watching.

I'm not sure what RPM I tested these at but I'd guess about 3000 RPM on the tach so about 1500 RPM (dist turns at half speed when installed into the engine). This is the kind of stuff I do in my spare time when I'm sitting in my garage with too much time on my hands. I like to do some rudimentary testing on different things hahahaha

@@BruceCoggins Oh well, it keeps you off the streets.....😅

Great point...yeah, I should have really opened the gap as wide as possible. I have things I want to try...just haven't had a whole lot of time lately. Thanks for posting.

This TBI distributor doesn't have mechanical advance...not really sure what you're asking, but if you want to have mechanical advance, you'll need to use a different style distributor.

Here is a link to one on Amazon...www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFQ4YJJ/?coliid=I1S6DNBJALUZ96&colid=1087UX0Y8RZ9M&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I've been trying to buy a SUN distributor machine for many years and no one would sell me one or they wanted an arm and a leg so a couple of years ago I was looking up how to build my own and stumbled across this design so I pretty much copied it and made a few changes to make it my own. Google search "homemade distributor machine"...the guy did a nice write up with pictures. I made mine large enough so I could put different ignition systems on it and I cut a long extension cord and put two clamps on it to hook it up to a standard 12 volt car battery. The motor is your basic blower motor (PM102). For the coupling, I cut an old oil pump drive shaft and attached it to the blower with a couple pieces of hose...you want this connection to be somewhat flexible. I control it with a DC motor speed controller. For the wheel, I recommend using some lightweight corrugated plastic. I am using a slip collar to attach the wheel to the machine so I can run it with or without the degree wheel. The top plate is just a piece of metal I had laying around and I bought some spark plug thread inserts so I could screw spark plugs into to it. There are not really any exact measurements...just make it as large or as compact as you want

I've repaired lots of hydro boost units and every one I've seen takes that figure 8 gasket and one of the seals....the kits I order come with the figure 8 gasket and 2 seals...one larger and one smaller. I don't see why one of these won't work in your situation. I'd pull it apart and see what seal it has and then order a kit from Amazon

Speak for yourself...dude.

I was about to do the same thing with the Mallory module...I wasn't sure if it could handle full battery voltage but after looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like if it's wired through an ignition box then it is safe. I think I will look into the 9 volt battery test a little more though.

Well, I thought I saw the diagram in a Chiltons manual years ago..but a simple voltmeter set on continuity should show opening & closing on terminals B-C. My issue is creating the AC signal at W-G, without pulling out my distributor. Read where an old Weller soldering gun would create a strong AC field on W-G, but it doesn’t. Tried a 9V battery in series with a 12v test light on B-C & it never pulses the light.

That's a good idea. I'll check it out....thank you.

Yes, I very highly recommend checking it at idle as well as 3000 RPM or higher. You need to see if it stays the same or if it retards as the RPM increases. If it retards at higher RPM, you can readjust the idle timing to get the results you want or that the engines requires.

I bought a fast brand lockout kit we'll see how it works

The best way to get the holes lined up is to use a piece of cardboard or a piece of paper and press it on the top of the posts. Transfer that to whatever you're using and drill the holes. Hope that answers your question.

Thanks...I haven't even seen one of these in about 30 years. I never got the chance to play with these very much but we did have these units in the shop in the 80s and 90s...I mostly just watched and learned from the guys who knew how to use them. Can't wait to spend more time with it.

Oh yeah...it's been a long time, LOL. I was going to try to search for one but now you got me thinking...thanks for your input.

@@BruceCoggins you're welcome.

Same here. To some people this is just old out dated equipment or "junk" but to me this was a part of my past and something I am super excited to have and I plan on experimenting with this as much as possible.

@@BruceCoggins we had a large Allen Test equipment one at a shop I worked at back in the day. It had a 4 gas analyzer with it as well. It was huge and took up a lot of space! I like these as it lets you see what the spark line is doing. Especially in each individual cylinders.

In order to remove the module you will need an aftermarket ignition box...MSD, Crane, Pertronix, etc...hook that up to the magnetic pickup and you're golden.

This was one of the first videos I ever made and I didn't really want to talk on it so I put in the background music...I need to redo it without music and explain each step. I made a Part 2 video explaining things and answered a few questions though...

Great question...I'm sure it would run but I think it wouldn't run very well for the reason you stated. Thanks for watching.

Disc brakes do have a tendency to slightly drag but the wheels should turn freely when you spin them by hand. One thing you can try is loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder on the booster and see if you can feel the rod pushing it away...if it does then the rod is too long or the pedal isn't returning all the way. It shouldn't cause all 4 wheels to drag because as you push the brake pedal the fronts activate first and then the rears.. or vice versa but either way only one or the other will be in play. As far as the whining noise in the power steering, as soon as the bubbles disappear the noise should go away. Check the ps fluid with the engine running and add as necessary.

@@BruceCoggins ok thank you I’ll let you know how it goes tomorrow!!!🔥🔥🔥

@@BruceCogginsnew subscriber 🔥🔥🔥

Did you figure out what your problem was then?

@@Hallnout master cylinder.

LOL, yes you are...thank you for subscribing.