The Midway USA target stand is #606439, which is now listed at $24.99 (!). The square tube that holds the stand uprights actually measures out at 1" x 1.75" internally. Not sure why the manufacturer went with that since it is sloppy for real 1x2 dimensions. I guess they figure the adjustment knob will snug it up anyway. You can tell from the pictures on Midway USA that looks too big to be a 3/4" slot.

Great mods. I thought about doing a shootable activator using a magnet attached to the target frame, then the trip wire strung through the upright to the falling steel. Your idea sounds better.

Yes, I got tired of staking cheapy blue tarps a few years back and graduated to Harbor Freight mesh tarps. They will stay put in a gale with no staking. Never thought about painter's drop cloth. HF mesh tarps obviously more expensive, but not too bad if you wait for a coupon to come along. They pay for themselves and then some with the brass they catch!

With some ingenuity, that should work! Didn't know clotheslines got so fancy. For me, it would be total spray and pray to try to hit two moving targets!

Very True

This was replied to in a comment below: "I used just the cheapest $1.25 zinc plated wire variety that comes with two screw eyes and a hook. One screw eye attaches to the target frame. The latch part I actually screwed on to a 1x2" piece of wood, then I attached a magnet on to that to stick it on the metal upright (but it could be permanently mounted). I used mason string to tie on to the latch hook, then just a tug and the hook pulls free of the screw eye. I looked at some type of remote control actuator system, but quickly gave up on that (batteries, wires, and motors)! One tip, put little distance 'flags' on the trip string using duct tape so you can quickly figure out how far away you are (old Navy technology)."

Unfortunately, turning requires simple brute force. I recommend pushing from the lighter end of the coup and when you want to turn, just shove the whole rear end of the coup on around to where you want it. It works easier if the ground is wet!

@@ricktriebwasser4287 that is what I thought. Thanks for the quick reply.

Agreed! I also watched several videos and this is the best and simple idea.

No issues with the axels - the weight it holds is really not all that much.

@@ricktriebwasser4287 thank you!!

Just the cheapest $1.25 zinc plated wire variety that comes with two screw eyes. One screw eye attaches to the target frame. The latch part I actually screwed on to a 1x2" piece of wood, then I attached a magnet on to that to stick it on the metal upright (but it could be permanently mounted). I used mason string to tie on to the latch hook, then just a tug and the hook pulls free of the screw eye. I looked at some type of remote control actuator system, but quickly gave up on that (batteries, wires, and motors)! One tip, put little distance 'flags' on the trip string using duct tape so you can quickly figure out how far away you are (old Navy technology).

Roof panels depends on your situation. My coup is in my deeply shaded yard, so clear panels provide light and (in winter) warmth. If it gets too hot, you can always throw a tarp over it. Heat is obviously a big problem if you have nothing but cactus where you are!

Actually on my coop, the wheels roll on the blocks, but when you take it off the wheels, the coop sits just inside the blocks. That way you don't have to have the blocks perfectly level. Best thing for leveling the blocks is to use at least a 2' level and play sand as a leveling base.