This is a Spektrum DX4S

@ thank you

One side of the rod is reverse thread. Make sure you are driving the correct side into the suspension arm. They should all be oriented the same way on all 4 corners so when you make an adjustment they all must be spun the same direction to adjust.

I just thought that you might mean the ball stud into the arm. Do yourself a favor and invest in a set of MIP hex and nut drivers. It will make the build so much more enjoyable.

@@EvolVillainRC wow, i didnt even think of that, they went right right on! 😅 thank you so much

I used a 3 racing magnet setup

correct. Brushed motors are ideal for crawling

I know! I love that thing. I'm thinking of doing a mid next. thx man - Evol

@@EvolVillainRC Go for it bro! Do the Mid next!

yes it does!

Not really, its just the RR Gearbox, Steering rack, Hydra Shark flex chassis. The rest is off the shelf Yokomo YD2 SX/ZX parts. I did do the 6 hole pistons and TN shock shafts from Yokomo. Blue o-rings. Cant forget the CLSD diff as well.

Fellow Chiefs fan. I myself am leaning this way.

I think so, it ony sources suspension and I think those are the same between RX and SX

Since I removed the dbag who orginally responded to this question from my channel I'll at least post something for everyone else. I'm guessing in the 4 months since you have posted this you have this figured out, but for those who may not know....Servo centering is done mechanically, and electronically. You need to adjust the physical linkage to get it as close to centered as possible. Mostly using the book lengths on the steering linkage that should get you close. The rest must be done when the radio is installed. You first must power up your radio/reciever and servo WITHOUT any linkage attached. Make sure steering trim AND subtrim are 100 percent centered in the radio programming. I also make sure endpoints on the steering channel are at 100%. Once that is done you can then attach the servo horn and see where you are at. Attach the servo horn with the radio and servo powered up so it stays centered as you attach the horn. If the steering is off adjust the SUBTRIM, not the trim as Mr Percival suggested. Use the subtrim to get the wheels pointed in the right direction. IF you don't have enough adjustment within sub trim to get them centered, then you must go back and work on the physical centering. Subtrim is for the last 5% of getting it dialed in. Physical adjustment of linkage is the other 95% - I should say this should be done with the gyro out of the loop. That adds a whole other level of complexity. But at least without the Gyro in the loop and you get everything straight you can at least assume the initial setup is correct when you introduce the gyro into the loop. Anywho sorry I took so long to respond, life happens. Happy drifting.

I love it! They are popping up all over the country. RC Drift has hit critical mass:) Good luck with your venture. LMK if you need some custom drift barriers! driftitch.com/2023/04/29/drift-itch-track-decor-introducing-the-di-crash-barrier/

anytime you use an external BEC you need to exclude the ESC onboard BEC, by cutting wires, pulling pins etc.

Both style fit. You do have to trim the tabs to get a proper fit, but I have not any issues with it.

@@EvolVillainRC sweet. thank you

I think im pretty well stock with the RAD, 5 degrees of boost and 22 degrees of turbo (36 deg physical on the Fledge) . Thats what a few of the guys are running at our track for a conservative setup. As for rear end, it's a work in progress. I switched to 6 hole 1.2 mil pistons and 100wt oil at all 4 corners. MST medium rear springs on Yokomo bigbores. I try to keep a pretty major rearward rake to transfer as much weight to the rear. I still have more work to do, but its leaps and bounds better than it was.

@@EvolVillainRC Awesome brother, thank you so much! I noticed you have the camber on squat setup for the rear, how much static camber do you recommend? Also, what gearing or FDR did you settle on?

@@bacon9896 I actually dont have a recommendation here because this car is a work in progress. I zero out on the bench and go from there. It looks like under throttle is more like -1 deg based on the wear strip on the tire. I need to probably test some more here, but the car has been so good I just haven't messed with it.

I know man, my jaw hit the floor the first time I saw Daltons with the body off....

Yep 2 strips of servo tape. I moved it to the top plate though.

@@EvolVillainRC thanks, another question, I am actually finishing this conversion from a yd2 RTR. I notice the rear turnbuckle connected to the shock tower is much longer than usual, can you tell me what ball stud you are using there? I also had to change my rear shocks from the backside of the shock tower to the front of the shock tower.

@@richardr.waithe1301 Its a 10mm threaded stand off with the ball stud threaded in on one side and a 12mm m3 button head on the backside of the tower. I bought a set of 10 on ebay for 8 dollars. You can run the shocks on the back of the tower using the same trick, 1 20mm theaded stand off or 2 10mm spacers.