There is a take up reel for the release liner, but no rear rewind for finished product.

We have a video that goes over that. If you have questions let us know. www.youtube.com/@graphicfinishingpartnersll4723/search?query=reverse%20wound

You are correct. There was a change in the 200 series and it goes now into a cutout in the machine. Thank you for catching that and letting us know we need to update the video

Ideally you match the length of the overlaminate to the print. If you are trying to use up short rolls you can splice the new film on to the old material.

The laminator is a Gfp 563TH

Great, we are glad you found these videos helpful.

Anything you have learned so far that you would like to share?

I've learned about PSA Lamination and how to properly apply that procedure on vinyl sir.

Hi Keith, it will give you a substate with the adhesive on it. You can mount an image then to the substrate on a second pass. Here is a video where they apply an image with the adhesive on it. It could be the same but you would remove the liner from the substrate instead of the print kzbin.info/www/bejne/apXGgn9um9V4fJI

thank you. Going for a Gfp 355th

When setting the tensions for your overlaminate unwind and release liner rewind it is important to keep in mind that it is a balance between the two adjustments. For a base setting, I will start by backing both tensions off, then start adding tension to the overlaminate unwind to get the film tight and flat to the roller, I will then adjust the release liner rewind to control where my release point is. This is keeping in mind that adjusting one tension affects the other. As an example, If my release liner is coming to far forward, I can either add tension to the liner rewind or remove tension from the laminate unwind. Or if the release liner is pulling the film with it onto the liner rewind, I can remove tension from the rewind or add tension to the unwind. What adjustment you make will depend on where the tensions are currently set when you make the adjustment. I try to keep my tensions as low as possible to avoid stretching the film. The goal is to find a good balance between the two adjustments.

Hi Armando. Around 8-10 on the pressure reading. It all depends on the media and film. If you don't feel like it is enough pressure you can add more. Or if it seems to bunch to the middle go less but 8-10 is where I have found it to run well with most lams and media. Most go cold on wrap films and media. But you can add to 100-105F if you see some silvering. for calendared films I would go 105-110F.

The product we used is the GFP front mount adhesive for this application www.gfpartnersllc.com/_files/ugd/27522d_95fd2a20d8e4465ba9ad3359ed3ba540.pdf

If the film is stuck to the roller use a hair dryer or heat gun to soften up the adhesive before removing. If you try and pull it away cold it can rip out a section of the rubber possibly.

@@johncmanuel-gfp5559 thank you so much for your help. 🙏🏼 appreciate it.

Hi Tyler, check this video. There is also a Webbing Films 2 which shows another way kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2enoY2hnrVjfrs

Yes. But we also have videos for the 255C. Here is the link off our website. www.gfpartnersllc.com/200-series

Would you be able to get in contact with me I have one and don’t know how to use it! Your help would be greatly appreciated :)

@@Bogsly The guys from GFP are the pro's. I'm just a user of their products.

Thanks for the tips! The tapering makes sense since that's how I always start my prints onto my printer's take-up reel. The sticky-to-sticky tape method was useful, too. Much appreciated!

I read about people experiencing those exact same issues with those laminators and showing pictures of wrinkled film under the lamination. Can you please explain that and how to fix it? That's keeping me on hold of buying this model over other brands.

@@iliyandinev The main reason that can happen is not making sure the film and the media are tight against the rollers when you first start. When treading the web, keep those two items nice and tight against the rollers. If you see any gap between the roller and the film/media when you start, you will get wrinkles after a few feet of running. The other thing that will cause it is if the nip is off from one side to the other. The Gfp machines are extremely easy to reset because we do not have any springs on the rollers that can wear out. There is a video on our website that walks you through the process, www.gfpartnersllc.com/servicevideos 300 Series Applications Nip Adjustment. All the Gfp machines use the same procedure regardless of the model. Hope this helps.

@@robertelliott8797 You guys need to find someone else to do your demos, then. This guy manages to find something to muck up in almost every video. I've only owned my machine for two days and already I feel more competent than this goofball. This is utterly baffling considering these are the official introductory tutorials for how to use your machines. What on Earth is going on over there at GFP?

Thanks! We are happy to be of service and hope it was useful for you!

Hi Matt, to resolve the wrinkling of the graphic, we put the media alignment disks on the bottom supply shaft and added some brake tension. If you would like further assistance, we would be happy to help. Please email us at [email protected] or call us at (800) 986-2005 Monday - Friday, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM CST.

Yeah it kind of looks like it was starting to wrinkle and he just hid it from the camera with his arm. Hmmm

Yeah. my supplier was trying to sell me one today, but this video put me off. Going to go with something else.

@@marcomsignsprinting1567 That was 100% operator error, not the machine, (I know because that's me in the video). If you are still looking for a laminator, I highly recommend the Gfp models. You can't beat the quality for the price.

Like two years too late this but dude really missed a CRITICAL factor when setting up roll to roll and that is making sure everything is TIGHT before you run. He mentioned he added slack but then never removed it once it was all set. This will wrinkle. You need tight brake pressure all around, on your rewind, on your laminate, supply end and finish end. If anyone gets lose it's over. Roll to Roll is the most stressful setup in my opinion but then the easiest to run. Nothing worse though than getting into your 50"x50' image and seeing a wrinkle. start to form. Good to always have like 8 feet of setup ahead of the image.