Remove the carbon off the exhaust guide before you remove it.

If you remove the valve lifter assembly note the rotational timing!

Looks pretty good. You were lucky with that spring eh? Much better than my gearbox was. RusselL Motors are very helpful, they had tons of nos m20 bits. How is the rear wheel sprocket? they are rivetted on and difficult to replace. Not done mine yet. All the best, Pat

Good work

Enjoying the vid's, looking forward to seeing it running. My prewar Beeza has the same design of Burman gearbox, they are clunky. You have to hold the gear change lever up or down depending on which way you're changing, then ease the clutch out until you feel it go into gear. When changing down, you have to come to an almost stand still to avoid crunching gears. I made new pins for the gear change mechanism, any play at all will translate into dodgy gear change.

Thanks for showing that felt washer. I was scratching my head over the location of that, having heard it mentioned, but can't see it on any parts list or schematic. Draganfly do list one for early models, bit the photo makes it look like one for the other end of the pushrod. And gives the impression that it's an early version of the larger rubber sprocket seal. My gearbox sprocket isn't as bad, but is worn, and has 19 teeth, but should be 20, so I've got a replacement on the way. I'm gonna leave the bushes, but about to replace both bearings. The replacement large one came with rubber seals ? Any thoughts on leaving or removing those ? My gear selecter has very worn teeth, and I just got a NOS one arrive. Btw there is mention In the original road tests that when new, the B's were prone to a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd, but no mention as to the cause. Thanks for posting these vids, apart from the inspiration, every picture is worth a thousand words, when forgetting how things go back together. Good luck with it. Regards S.

Hi Andy I've been working on my 54 b33 , just make sure the banjo feed bolts have a .040" hole , I also aligned the rocker shaft groove to go past the oil hole in the rocker , you can check the oiling with the rocker covers off , I just put up a video of my B33 on my channel. Cheers.

sounds as if its got sand in the main bearings, new bearings, seals, rings and maybe a rebore and that is perfect.

Sounds all right to me

I had a B31 back in the 60s. I never managed to get the push rod tunnel to seal at the top, always had a dribble of oil running down the outside.

Fixer up , don't worry about the $ too much , it will be great for the mind when it's all done , I really enjoy riding my 54 b33 , I had lots to fix as well . Cheers

can you not use bearing fit? I am putting a b33/ b34 crank in my b31, it was rebuilt but not by me. the barrel is off and the crank feels ok. will know more when i split the cases

Bad Luck. Am thinking metal spraying for the bearing journal,and that the cam lobes might be repaired by building up with weld [Nickel based rod ?] and ground back Although not mentioning the condition of the cylinder you did say you had plenty of compression.Could the existing piston not be re-used with new rings and honed barrel,?.

Touring cams are a straight fit

I have gold star touring cams in my B31, works really great

Lovely bike!

You loaded E34 not E31

I already ordered I did follow your guide and download the Inpa yesterday but the version was updated and does not support ADS anymore. Do you still have downloaded file of INPA from last year. I have 750IL 1998 would love to be able to fix few issues with INPA ADS Interface support. Would you be able to share it. Regards, Tom

Nice, Where did buy the ads interface and software?