Thanks for the kind words Brad! Yes, corner cabinets get tricky quickly! I always aim for "visual balance." With that in mind, there are a couple of things you can do to get close. If the corner cabinet door overlay is adjusted so that the face of the door is roughly 1.5" narrower than the cabinet face I would recommend adding a filler piece above the door to bring the crown out even with the face of the door and angle the filler piece inwards at 45 degrees on both sides so you can miter the crown for the returns. This would create a slight gap where the door doesn't cover the filler, but I think this would provide the best visual balance for this situation. If the door is the same size as the cabinet face I would probably put the filler piece in the front, but cut the ends at 90 degrees, so it covers the full width of the cabinet face, then cut pieces for the ends (returns) that each have a 45 degree cut to join with the front piece. The end fillers will need to be proportionally thinner than the face piece (the 45 degree angle on the end fillers should be equal to the thickness of the face filler). What this does is line up the corner of the moulding very closely with the edge of the door and it reduces the imbalance between the face and the ends. If you use a face filler of .875" the corresponding end piece would only need to be .5" thick. This brings the crown forward .875" at the front and .5" at the ends. I do not think going with a 5-piece method where the crown returns in .875" between the face and the ends will be the best visual balance. I think it would bring unwanted attention to the situation, compared to either of the 3-piece methods listed above. I know that was a long and rambling answer, but I'm hoping it helps. Best of luck! ~Dan

Thanks for the comments! When I refer to the slide length I'm referring to the length of drawer they are designed to be used with. In other words, a set of 21" drawer slides is designed to be used with a 21" deep drawer. A set of 18" deep drawer slides is designed for use with 18" deep drawers. Physically measuring the slides could result in some incorrectly sized drawers because the slides stick out past the spur, as you mentioned. Hopefully that helps! Happy installing! ~Dan

Hi Fred! For side mount drawer slides the exact depth of the drawer is not as critical, although it's good practice to match the drawer depth with the slides so you can maintain "full extension." And with side mount slides, if your clearance is really tight (for example maybe your interior depth is 22-1/4"), you can mount the slides to the side of the cabinet instead of to the back of the cabinet and might be able to squeeze a 22" deep drawer in there. With under mount slides you need about 1" behind the drawer, no matter how you attach the slides to the cabinet, because the slides wrap around the back of the drawer. Also, check with the slide manufacturer about what sizes they offer. Most offer lengths in 2" increments, 22", 20", 18", 16", etc., but some manufacturers have unique sizes. Hopefully that helps! ~Dan

Hi Jarry, that is definitely a possibility! I always recommend testing it on a scrap piece first, if you have one. And if you're consistently getting tearout on your scrap piece I would recommend switching to a different type of corner hinge. Salice makes a hinge that uses a more typical cup drilling that doesn't cut into the edge of the door. Hopefully that helps! ~Dan

I'm pretty sure the doors come with the holes pre-drilled, mine did.

Thanks for the question! Based on your description of the situation I believe there are actually two issues here. I believe the new hinges probably require a deeper bore; that's likely what's preventing the hinges from sitting flush against the door. It's also possible that there's something under the hinge, maybe a piece of debris, that's preventing it from going against, so check that first. And the first problem likely caused the second problem: loose screws. The original screws could have been a larger diameter than the new screws and/or the new screws were over-torqued trying to get the hinges to sit flush with the face of the door. The result is a stripped out screw hole. My recommendation here is to either switch to a larger diameter screw or drill out the screw hole with a 1/4" drill bit, glue and plug it with a 1/4" wooden dowel, and then pre drill and reattach the hinges. Hopefully that helps! ~ Dan

Hi. Did you find a good link on the 45°? I’m facing the same issue now as I start my install.

Hi James, that is correct. Additionally, if you're using undermount slides, you would also need to decide how thick your drawer sides are going to be, which will also affect your overall drawer size (ex. a drawer with 5/8" thick sides will need to be a different overall width than a drawer with 1/2" thick sides, even if you're putting them both in the same size opening and using the exact same UM hardware). Hopefully that helps! ~Dan

Hi Marco, thanks for asking! The current Blum spec book indicates 12.5mm from the edge of the door to the center of the bore. And yes, the bore diameter is 35mm. Hope that helps! ~Dan

Hi Kurt, Great question! In order for the undermount slides to be secured to the drawer properly they need some type of horizontal stabilizer. In cases where the bottom is recessed by 1/2", the drawer sides, which extend 1/2" below the bottom, act as that stabilizer, and the front locking devices help secure the runners to the drawer and hold the runners against the drawer sides. If those stabilizers were missing (flush bottom), I don't believe the front locking devices provide enough lateral stability by themselves. Blum has an example of a 3/4" pull-out shelf that uses undermount runners. In order to provide lateral stability they simply add 1/2" high pieces to the bottom. That's on pg. 24 of my Tandem plus Blumotion spec guide. So the answer is, "yes, you can install UM track on flush bottoms if you add lateral stability." Just be careful about your depth sizing based on where you're putting your front locking devices. Hopefully that helps! ~Dan

The hinges used in this video are BLUM 60 degree clip-top (79T8500.10 with hinge mounting plate 175H6000) and BLUM 170 degree clip-top (71T6550). We recommend that you refer to the BLUM literature for the hinge that suits your specific application.