Just did this. All the evap stuff and fuel pump. Took bed off, way faster and easier than dropping the tank. 8 18mm bolts, lights, and filler neck. Two adults can muscle the bed off. Have blocks of wood to set it on if you care about it.

Wonderful video. EXACTLY what I needed to know. Thanks for making this!

Very helpful. I wonder if the lines can be blown out without removing the tank?

late to the show, but if u put a piece of black electrical tape on the part u want to measure (i guess the copper pipe) it will help your IR thermometer get a more 'accurate' reading.... Those devices are affected by the color and shinyness (sp?) of the surface u are trying to measure.

I really hope I don't have to drop the tank but I changed the evap solenoid and then the canister and it starting working again, check engine light went off but recently when I'm low gas it is shutting off again at the pump. It's not nearly as bad as it was but I noticed the whistling sound is pretty much the same. I assume the lines are also clogged. Any easy way to do this?

This video is priceless. I pull it up every time I have to put this thing back in.

I wonder how your truck is doing today after the steps you took here.

Keep in mind that the more bends you have in a pipe the higher the temperature will be created......i think????

There are two holes in the jack base that catch on the two hooks with the mounting plate when storing the jack

A tried and true way to extract a riser is by jamming a butter knife into the riser and rotating counterclockwise until it gets completely loose.

It was likely the screen near your oil pressure sensor, see the following. I have a 2013 Chevy suburban 5.3L with 183,000 miles which I had recently bought used.. It is often stored for periods up to 4 months. I drove it one day after storing and oil P bounced around between 20 and zero. The oil life indicator showed I had 50% oil life left, although oil hadn’t been changed in last 1.5 years. Dipstick showed it was a 1/2 quart low, so I added 1/2 quart and all of a sudden oil P was normal. I needed the truck for a 60 mile trip so I bought a couple more oil quarts and took the trip. About 30 miles in, oil P started decreasing again. I stopped added more fresh oil and oil P went back to normal. I got a complete oil change before return trip, and during the 60 mile return everything was normal. I got the screen replaced. The only thing I could deduce is that during storage the dirtier heavy oil settled onto that screen and when adding some fresh oil it thinned it just enough. You may find that your flush was mostly a temporary fix.

God bless you and the lords work you are doing making this video

Use diesel after draining your oil.

Thanks for the video !

I have a heavy smell of gas could this also be my problem?.

What’s the name of that blue line

This is the one I want. The pro might be a little too big.

Thanks will get blow gun..so won't have to drop tank

Question- I know it's been years but- when the trim unit is trimmed ALL the way up- Should it be able to be pushed back down with body weight?

Very helpful 👍

I I'm having problem with my 2018 tracker 40hp engine tilt trim assembly it trims down by it self when under load took it to the dealer amd they said I need a whole new part long story short they are scared to take it apart and check for bad seals . The easy numbers they gave me was $1900to replace ... but thanks to you tube I was able to figure it out myself I found that a 2 dollar o ring is bad at the safety presure valve ... hey man thanks for sharing your video

Those are wheel blocks thats why there are two

Get a bigger filter bud

Thanks for putting this video together. It saved me from struggling and getting stressed!

2012 Tahoe...vapor canister...evap solenoid...now dropping tank to clear lines...don't wanna buy a fuel pump but i guess its the wisest thing to do. Thanks for the vid

Good info thanks I've been having the same issues and replaced the same parts.

By the way, GMC dealer charges minimum $1200, most shops charge about 1000 for one side

Tire chocks so the vehicle doesn’t roll when jacked up

Good job. Like the ridgid pipe vs the flexible kits. One tip is you don't need to tighten the pipe itself if you hook the valve to it and using a wrench turn it as one piece.

A trick I was taught with fuel lines. When you go to reassemble. Get some ATF and a cheap spray bottle. Spray the areas around where the fuel line rubber fittings go. Not only will it make it 10x easier to get on and in place. But later on down the road. If you need to remove the fuel lines again for whatever reason. They'll be easier to take off

thanks I almost committed suicide trying to put this contraption together jajajajajajajajajajajajjaa thanks man you made my day

Will this unit repair 1\4" aluminum flatbar, cracked trailer ramp .thx

If you see the pellets ANYWHERE they are most definitely already in your tank! The pellets partially break down into mushy carbon and clog the fuel pump filter and damages the pump! I replaced the EVAP canister 6 months ago because of the "I can't fill my car" problem, and just now had to change the pump. I also had to replace the solenoid that sits up on the manifold (injects the fuel fumes into the intake for EPA regulations). That was FULL of pellets as well! I could shake it and it sounded like a salt shaker! I had to blow the line out from that solenoid back to the tank (which connects to the red clipped line that this KZbin creator had fully clogged). While your tank is out to fix a clogged line, pull the pump out and take a look at it and inside of your tank - you are going to be very surprised at how much carbon and pellets there is inside of the pump (and all over it), as well as the bottom of the tank. Again, if you see pellets when you pull your EVAP canister you might as well pull the tank and at least clean out the pump assembly. Pumps are about $75 on Amazon, so you might consider replacing it if you can't get it apart to dump the carbon and clean the filter. A few tips... loosen the lower clamp and pull the hose from the filler neck that way. There is a square notch cut out of the hose. This is an orientation key (notch) for the position of the hose. At first I thought that this was an anchor point, but it's not. Take your pick tool and pry back the rubber around the entire perimeter of the tube to break it free. Then squirt some WD-40 on the hose and neck where they meet - go grab lunch and come back after awhile. Use a pair of heavy duty gloves for good grip and just rotate the hose back and forth while pulling and wiggling. It will pop free and there is plenty of space to do this. Pulling this end of the hose will make life easier when you drop the tank as the fill neck will be short and easy to move out of the way as you tip it past the rear diff. Next tip - EMPTY YOUR TANK! My pump was going out (could not stomp on it or it stumbled and idle pressure was 20 psi), but it was drive-able. I just drove until the low fuel light came on, which is at about 2 gallons or so. That left only about 14 pounds of weight in the tank. You can use a hose to drain the rest of the fuel if you want, but the tank is very manageable with just a couple of gallons of weight. I learned that the fill neck has a one-way door in it. I went to dump the remaining fuel out of the tank into a bucket (by standing it on end) and couldn't figure out why the gas would not come out. I placed a rubber hose in the fill neck to hold open the door and out came the fuel - and pellets, lots of pellets! Next tip - once the tank is nearly empty, take a micro-fiber cloth and wipe out the entire inside. You can't quite reach the front of the tank with your arm through the hole (where the fuel pump goes), so I sloshed fuel back and forth to basically clean the front portion and wash all of the carbon debris to the back. You can reach ALL of the back of the tank easily with your arm through the hole. I pulled out literally hand fulls of pellets and mushy carbon! I can't believe it ran at all this way after replacing the EVAP canister, which stopped the pellet issue! So, thanks to this KZbin creator for this video.... I almost pulled the tank the first time when I still had the same issue he did where replacement of the canister did not fully solve the issue with being able to fill the tank. I found that after about the 3rd tank it would fill just fine at that point because I guess enough of the pellets had moved into the lines and the solenoid. I did not have any fully clogged lines when I inspected everything... just lots of loose pellets in them! I have a 2008 Tahoe LTZ.

You almost help my jack is the same but I have Cadillac escalate and it doesn’t have the inside support

On the bottom of jack is a hole.. on the mounting bracket there is a Nipple.. The Nipple goes in the Jack hole.. to also keep jack in place 👍

I worked at Miller in appleton and they literally treat their workers like dog shit. Management is so incompetent ive never seen anything so bad. Theyll send broken machines out on purpose just to meet quotas. Quantity over quality is the miller way. Also, if your direct boss does something they know they are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO, and you report it to his/her boss? Yeah they just fire you. Management fucks up so often and has ZERO consequences which is why they fuck up so often bc they get rid of the worker instead of the real problem, which is management.

I worked at Miller in appleton and they literally treat their workers like dog shit. Management is so incompetent ive never seen anything so bad. Theyll send broken machines out on purpose just to meet quotas. Quantity over quality is the miller way. Also, if your direct boss does something they know they are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO, and you report it to his/her boss? Yeah they just fire you. Management fucks up so often and has ZERO consequences which is why they fuck up so often bc they get rid of the worker instead of the real problem, which is management.

This is not very encouraging. I am waiting on a couple of parts for my cooler project and if it’s not going to do anything, I’ll be disappointed and several hundred dollars poorer. I do have a good stack downstream of the tank, but still…

I used a speed jack and pry bar to move the exhaust down a few inches and slid my pan out.

Thanks man. My truck ('08 Chev 2500) did some of this not being able to put gas in it in 2012 when I bought it (it had sat a yr when I got it), and eventually got to where it was fine after a while of driving it and few trips cross-country and to Canada, but about a yr and a half ago, the check engine light w/ EVAP code came on and about a yr ago, it started again with that whole can't put gas in it thing, but after 2 mos of not driving it, now she runs TERRIBLE and missing out like nobody's business. I'd like to avoid pulling the tank if I can since you had such a time with it, but I feel like to be safe, ALL the lines should be checked/cleaned. Also, I'll see if I can get one of those long-nozzled air blowers you found @ HF because that would be handy as all get out anyway. When I get around to that portion, I'll have to let you know how it went, but appreciate you putting the info out there for us. It's nice to have a gander at the work before doing it.

0:04 tarzan yell

Great video. By the time your lines are clogged you will have a ton of charcoal in the tank that needs to be cleaned out.

Gray video. I used this for putting back my jack and tools. Thanks for creating this video.

If you have any one drop of water in that filter its still going in the compressor that filter does not what you think

I have the same mower but I can't find the capacity anyone know what it is? For oil

Yep! Me Too! exactly the same experience, replaced all the parts to no avail, I should have first checked the Purge Valve for Carbon pellets which would have told me the lines were clogged, Unfortunately that was the last thing I checked, the purge valve tube is Very brittle and will break upon inspection, (p/n 12658354) would recommend getting a new one first, as well as a new Purge Valve (located at the Motor) both are cheap. the line that gets clogged the most is this Purge Valve Line, but there will be pellets throughout the system (Very Poor Design) a new Complete line kit (AC Delco Part # B7082580761AC) is well Over $300.00 add to that all the cost of parts thrown at this job before one realizes the lines are blocked and you have a parts bill of over $500.00. you can Buy the Exact same AC delco Line kit on that Jungle Website for $160.00 same part numbers same manufacturer but hundreds of dollars cheaper. there are Many Poor Design systems and Materials used in the 07 to 14 Chevy trucks, they hired the wrong design teams for sure. if you are cursed with the above issue, Good Luck, because once you go through the misery of fixing it, soon as the Evap Canister Filters go bad, it all happens again! a small sponge filter that can degrade rapidly is all that is preventing this from reoccurring.

Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. My gas gauge is always showing full. Can a bad gas pump and sending unit be the culprit?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Thank you, I didn't know how to put it back 😆

Thanks

This vid saved my ocd and blood pressure. Thank you😊