Don't you need an oil catch can if you remove the pcv?

I drilled out my pcv 7/64 on top 5/64 on the 2 holes on the bottom.

What size drill can I use to drill out a bigger hole in the pcv valve?

You could add another pvc valve in the middle of the valve cover and t it into the existing one

Can you drill that breather out on the drivers side rocker cover to about 5mm? And still use the same hose connection? To make it breath better?

Don´t understand how a ignition coil screw can get underneath the cylinder.. Pls enlighten me.

300,000km on this engine, 3 out of 4 timing position sensors are complaining 😔

The problem is lack of oil changes , 15,000KM is to long - end of story ! If you read the fine print in the owners manual that covers " Abnormal Service " and those circumstances that are considered " abnormal service " ( which essentially is everyone ) , then those under the abnormal service banner need an extra oil change at 7,500KM - Nobody reads the owners manual or pays any attention to it . This has become a common OEM trick and it is not only GM , - Ford , Chrysler , Toyota and just about every brand these days employs this B.S. so that they can tell the new car buyer that they only need a service every 15000KM and how cheap the car is to maintain ! If you read the owners manual for just about every new car made in the past 20 or so years this " Abnormal Service " B.S. or some form of it is somewhere in there .

I just cleaned my PCV valve you couldn't even blow through it it was that blocked so now I do that every 6 months with a oil change

Yes i agree bad place

So u got a care with correct software . Where most the mutable cam timing fails. Left pull righ chaon loss. To main chain. This is where chain is pulled and stretched. Im happy your the luckily one god bless

Update beautiful motor. Time flow. New update Mutable time on the cam. Is the fault. !!!!!!! Left to right cam adjusters do not communicate to main chain. . One tight . One loss. Main chain dont dont know. Its being pulled. Left or right. The block. Yes original video is correct. But a soft ware is wrong in the timing ((((( i love holden. This need be correctly be seen ? Will you do a video? And conclusion?

Cool

Many videos recommend drilling the orifice in the pvc valve out bigger. A retired certified mechanic of 40 yrs told me he would not do that as the computer could detect this and change the fuel mixture. Causing bad gas milage. Any thoughts? Thank you.

You got more wog the longer the video got haha

How about putting an old school pvc valve with a grommet in the valve cover like on the 80s model chevy v 8

UMM UMM UMM FFS DUDE STFU STOPPED WATCHING AFTER 10SEC

So would this also apply to the Alfa Romeo 159 V6 engine?

So what do you do with the plug that plugs onto the Pvc Valve do you just take that out and let the plug hang free??

don't do this, guys. this bogan doesn't know what he's talking about

These engines are horrible. I have a Holden rodeo, 190,000kms and I’ve had nothing but problems. But it always starts and drives no matter how badly it’s screwed. Always starts. Does have misfires and stuff when it breaks. But yeah.

Good call. I believe in the USA where they use a similar engine they have an after market fix for this issue.

Emission targets so have one side breath properly and the other restricted for GM to say they are saving the planet.

folks change ya oil member oil is cheap engines are not

Hey mate luv your video... ive drilled hole to 5mm made it smoth thanks for the idea...quick question can you please tell me where is the crank sharft angle sensor location is im looking everywhere no luck yet can you help mate cheers

great info, sick vid subscribed!

You guys fail to understand. Gm knows exactly what they built. Like the northstar.. its designed to fail after so many miles. Thus all rhoae cadillac northstars are in junk yard looking bettter than 2005 chyrsler products on the street.

Wait till the timing chain goes and then piss all that money down the toilet! Lol!!

I threw my shitty alloytec in the bin where it belongs and turboed a real engine.

How hard is it to get the pcv valve out while engine is still in the car I have a 2010 Malibu with this engine

Barra's dont have this problem 😏😏

mate, engineers these days are in their mid twenties and been in school most their lives....

Wouldn’t it be any companies out there that I’ve made a better timing chain kit for these motors

Thanks bloke.Simply put .Sensible analysis.

Haven't had a problem with my 2012 VE V6 Alloytec. But then mines factory LPG only and I use full synthetic oil changed at 10km intervals, it's 'gunk free'.

how much work has been done to this Engine?

I watched this one a few months ago after swapping a new engine into my VZ. Almost considered taking the PCV out/modding it as per this video but didn't feel like I knew enough about it and didn't want to bugger anything up. Well, it just died last week due to the timing chain. Rocker cover terrible on the driver side and PCV valve fully blocked. If you've got an Alloytec, do something about the PCV if you want it to last.

That's true

wow, thanks mate.

How do I piss this thing off?

You seem to have consused yourself. Bank 135 has the PCV Valve and Bank 246 does not hence the discoloration. I say upgrade the PCV Valve system 2 off with larger capacity and install Catch Can.

thank you for this explanation. i just bought a VE 2011 3.0 lt ( 235,000 KM ) and will be taking your advice .

I'm not sure venting to atmosphere would be a great idea unless you like your air a tinsy bit poisoned in the morning.. Or you don't ever wanna use your vents again and even then the pollution might get through to the cabin.. Just a thought 😆

That’s because of the pcv system, they have an updated rear valve cover with updated pcv baffles. But that has nothing to do with timing chain wear the problem is the engines need full synthetic oil and change it every 5,000 miles or less ( not sure what that is in km). You have the old valve cover but there is a re designed valve cover gasket that actually adds a baffle for the pcv. I use a drill bit to open up the pcv holes but just a tiny bit barely any bigger if u go too big u can get codes for maf sensor and/or fuel trim codes. You can’t just let the pcv vent to atmosphere again u can get these codes and you also want to have vacuum in the crank case it helps avoid oil leaks specially rear and front main seals. After 2011 gm switched to full synthetic oil, they programmed the oil life reminder to a lover millage and then had far fewer timing chain failures the oil life reminder was still too high but better then what it was at. If you run full synthetic from the start and change the oil in less then 5,000 miles the timing chains can last the lifetime of the vehicle. My dad has one that he bought brand new and still has the vehicle, I told him run full synthetic and change it at 5,000 or less but if u really wanna do urself a favor change the full synthetic oil at 3,000 miles so he did just that he has ran full synthetic and changes it every 3,000 miles and he still has the original timing chains in it, car has almost 200,000 miles (Google says that converts to around 321,000km) it runs great. I own a auto repair shop and have been a professional automotive technician for over 20 years so I know how to do this, go into my scan tool and go into the timing chain data and I can run tests and look at the degrees of the timing angles and the timing chains are only stretched about 3 degrees which is not much for 200,000 miles, for this engine to have a check engine light on for stretched timing chains one if the chains has to be out of time by 7 degrees or more so in theory if you doubled the miles so 400,000 miles or 640,000km then double the chain stretch so 6 degrees so just about 7 degrees it’s possible to make it to 400k before my dads engine needs timing chains. On paper it looks possible, probably wouldn’t happen but just doing the math it’s a maybe. I’m just stunned that after 200k it is only out by 3 degrees of timing but that just goes to show you that oil most certainly breaks down and can’t lubricate properly and people make the mistake of thinking because oil looks clean that it must still be good but that’s just not true! You can change the oil in ur car today then overheat the oil and bam that oil is no longer properly lubricating ur engine but to the naked eye you would look at the oil and think man it looks like it was just changed because it was but the oil has broken down from overheating. It’s too bad people don’t listen they could save themselves a ton of money just by simple maintenance just changing their oil more often. Some people really thing that mechanics tell them to change their oil more often to make money off them. I had these 2 customers say that at my shop before they said yeah this other shop were scammers so we stopped going there that’s why we’re coming to ur shop, they were trying to tell us we should change out full synthetic oil every 5,000 miles and I know they just want to make all the money changing out oil. I said with all due respect but that shop was 100% correct specially with the engines both of you gentlemen have. I will also like to tell u that I know oil changes are expensive nowadays but we don’t make money doing ur oil changes we only do them as a convenience thing for customers nobody really wants to be bothered doing oil changes. By the time I pay for the oil, oil filter, washer fluid, any other fluids that we top off, a floor mat, pay my technician to do to the oil change, pay to get rid of ur old oil and yes I have to pay to get rid of it which is about 53 cents per car there is 10 bucks left over if it’s a regular oil change and 20 bucks if it’s full synthetic oil change then don’t forget computer paper for ur receipt, ink for printer, credit card fees if u pay with a credit card, Internet to run the credit card machine, oil change reminder sticker, rags and cleaner to clean off any oil that got on ur engine or frame when removing the oil filter, oil observant for when oil is spilled on the shop floor that’s all apart of every oil change even though they are a very small part of it that’s still a cost, oh and then wear and tear on my lifts, then I have all the bills associated with running my shop and then I need to make something otherwise why am I in business. If a customer has a cup of coffee from with my k-cup machine then it literally just costed me money to change their oil. After I said that the customers said wow I never thought about all of that. I said yeah if I did oil changes all day long I would go out of business I would have to changed much more and do 100 of them per day. What really sucks is how much the price of oil has gone up just 1 1/2 years ago I was paying $350 for a 55 gallon drum of synthetic blend oil that’s what I use for my regular oil changes I don’t cheap out and get regular conventional oil I use blend so my customers have a great quality oil even if they just get basic oil changes well now that drum has gone up by just about 300 bucks! Then my full synthetic has gone from 62 bucks for 6 gallons to $144 for 6 gallons. I did raise my regular oil change from 30 to 40 bucks and my synthetic from 60 to 80 but that’s not really cutting it.

Champion! Thanks for the info

All these modern engines have shitty pcv systems n suck it all back thru muddling up the intake manifold and intake ports too. Vent this crap to atmosphere for sure.

Timing chains don't stretch and the hydraulic tension is built to take up excess slack

what ecu are you using

The replacement valve cover gasket blocks that pcv system even worse.

Ecotech engine is rock solid , timing chain is also rock solid . Over engineering killed the Alloytech , KISS = Keep it Simple Stupid.