You can reach me at [email protected]. I do have to warn you, I'm a busy person.

Actually, there is no flux in the core. I made sure the area was pretty clean and then I proceeded, I did have to hold it a bit longer than I did with the flux though.

@logictechratlab8787 how clean is the solder? There are enough oxides on the solder to keep it from flowing. You've got flux coming from somewhere.. maybe the Iron maybe a cleaning brush. ..what was the process for cleaning the surfaces to be soldered?

@@jdog4534 The solder itself wasn't cleaned just the pad. Solder will flow "ok" without flux. It just won't look too good and it might result in a cold joint or even cracking. But it's not like soldering without flux is impossible, in a lot of industrial cases, flux isn't used at all.

@logictechratlab8787 thanks for your replies. I'm not looking for an argument, I hope my questions aren't annoying. I just have a hard time believing there's no flux involved. Something is providing capillary action that allows the solder to bond with the copper(?), especially if the solder still has a layer of oxidation on it. Do you use any acidic chemicals to clean the copper (if not copper, what kind of metal is it?). In the video, the solder looks wet with or without flux. It's been my experience (most of which is in soldering copper pipe using an acetylene turbo 1torch , paste flux like nokorode and lead free solder like silvabrite) that it's the flux that makes the solder wet. That's the capillary action. I assume you're using an 80 watt iron? Do you know the heat it operates at and what's your solder made of? The stuff I use is 95.5% tin, 4% copper, 0.5% silver . Thanks and respect

@@jdog4534 Ah yes, if you're soldering pipes, you have to use flux or you'll have a very poor joint. However, with pcb's that's not always the case. If you're patient enough, you can get a "good enough" joint. I cleaned the pad with some IPA, nothing special. The pad is made out of copper but coated with some material unknown to me. My flux is 63% Tin and 37% Lead (this is not lead free solder which is harder to solder, especially without flux). In some industrial processes, they just use a tin bath where they did the PCB in it (or other components). Depending on the circumstances, there is also no flux involved since inside the bath, there is no oxidation layer. If you want to solder without flux (again, not something I recommend) you just have to be faster (to prevent oxidation), but keep the heat on for long enough so everything flows nicely. And my iron is at 400°C.

This paste melts aroumd 138°C. And unless you're working with very odd parts, you don't have to wory about heat damaging the components. It is recommended to follow the heat curve from the solder paste manufacturer though.

I admit, the soldar paste was awful. However a Q-tip and some IPA does wonders.

Awesome!

What kinda car. I’m fixing my Honda preludes gas and temp gauge

@@sosagam it’s a Mitsubishi eclipse 3g

I use a microscope

kzbin.infoC-UR7h1L3N8?feature=share

You can't solder on silkscreen.

@@logictechratlab8787 you could have scratched the edge and bridged with solder

@@LuisElectronico The gap was a bit too large to just use a solder bridge unfortunately.

Yes, of course!

Yes, tons of use cases.

The principles are exactly the same, however the code will be quite different. You'd have to use a LoRaWAN library (like LMIC) which makes the LoRaWAN code quite a bit more complex (and waaaayyy longer). However, the steps, the encoding and decoding of the payload, and the overall workflow stays the same.

I could do that, however I fail to see the usefulness in sending JSON data over the network, not only would that be an insanely big payload(and might breach the limit), the output can be converted into a JSON so sending a whole JSON file is irrelevant. As far as sending different types of information, the workflow is always the same, basic RUI 3 code, specific sensor code (see RAK RUI 3 examples or adafruit), convert the data into 1 byte intervals and then append that data to the payload[lenght++]. If you are working with GPS data, then two bytes will not be sufficient, which is why you can't just use highByte and lowByte. You would need to first right shift the data (first 0 times, then 8 times, then 16 times,...) and then send the individual bytes over the network. Finally, in the decoder, you need to then left shift these bytes again so you get the correct data. Here is a link to the RAK quick start guide for the GPS module: docs.rakwireless.com/Product-Categories/WisBlock/RAK1910/Quickstart/#software-configuration-and-example do keep in mind that this is written for BSP NOT RUI 3. However the specific GPS sensor code will be the same, but the LoRaWAN protocol is programmed differently.

Depending on the size of the JSON file, yes that should be possible.

I got mine from JOOM a while ago, and the flipper store regularly restocks. I recommend you join their discord server so you're notified when they restock.

I don't have a discord server (for LoRaWAN stuff) but I'm pretty active in the RAK discord server. So if you tag me there, I'll see it. (@lolboy007)

For the people reading the comments: We tried it again with the WisToolBox and it worked first time. Maybe restart your computer or WisToolBox itself if you have similar issues.

If for some reason that doesn't work, try using this guide: docs.rakwireless.com/Product-Categories/WisBlock/RAK4631-R/DFU/#updating-rak4631-to-rui3

Got it from this set: www.banggood.com/custlink/v33dsNANE7 But the name of the tip is the T12-J02.

@@logictechratlab8787 thanks, I ordered a JL02 which is a bit longer.

@@mrsaul3709i ordered both…..bent and chisel tips are amazing

I used a box cutter, but there are way better tools for this job.

@@logictechratlab8787 which tool? I tried many knife and tools but its not convenient and requires exact force and not more and precision

@@pipony8939 You can use an exacto knife or a cheap pair of tweezers.

@@logictechratlab8787 do you have link for AliExpress please?

@@pipony8939 I don't have a link to a specific AliExpress product. However any cheap pair of tweezers should suffice. I use these tweezers from banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/D3mEsnqf2J

The gray stuff is called solder paste. Components are placed on top of the solder paste and then the pcb is put on top if a hot plate. The hot plate heats up and melts the solder, the components are now secured to the pcb and make a good electrical connection.

I used CASTOLIN RT 3232

You can use both, just make sure the solder flows nicely.

It was a wire from Velleman, but honestly it's nothing special. It's a standard insulated copper stranded wire.

Ofc not 🤣

It's flux

I need more information before I can answer that question. That being said if the diode doesn't do anything special, then a generic diode will probably do the job. No guarantees though.

@@logictechratlab8787 sir my testing clamp meter pcb are short on the pcb the main smd ziner diode are short it's that possible ziner diode replace to 4007 diode .

@@prabhabajaj555 if it is a zener diode, then NO you can't replace it with a 1N4007. You need to replace it with a zener diode.

You can never have enough flux ;)

Yup I agree too much paste was used this was a new soler tube and I wasn't used to the pressure of the syringe. That being said, this is soldered on a practice board so in the end it doesn't really matter. For boards that actually matter I always use a stencil since that negates these issues.

@@logictechratlab8787 thats the best way to go!

As the wise louis rossmann once said; "There is no such thing as too much flux" 😉

Mucho grande flux

It's practice, of course there is too much flux