A 2-watt is fine. If you are in a high storm area, I'd go to 5K to keep the bleed more constant. The diodes are typical for temperate environments, you and use 2 or 5 amp diodes in you wish. The NE2 is just there for any transients that may get past the diode turn-on time, One NE2 will give some signal attenuation at 30 kHz maybe 1 dB loss at 27-30 MHz. Two NE2 in parallel will start to attenuate after 24 MHz and be about 4dB at 30MHz. I hope this helps.

@@n1kpr thanks so much for your help..2 to 5 amper for diodes enough ..am i right? So capasitors value is .01 uF? And just a ne2 is enough? Sorry I will try to make it myself and just a math teacher😂😂 i wannna learn well before making the circuit..

They are for sale on ebay single scanner or multiples combos

Thanks for sharing. Years ago, while sitting in the shack, I heard a loud snap. Then I noticed the PL259 laying on the desk was arcing from the center pin to the housing (160 meter end-fed). I went to ground it to the antenna switch and got the shock of my life. Some time later, I built a box with a Neon NE2 tube and a photo diode connected to the base of a digital counter. Every time the NE2 flashed it triggered the counter. One night there was a light snow fall and the tube was flashing away. At one point it registered 38 flashes per minute ... that's the most I've ever seen.

A bleed resistor is always a good idea but it will not stop a transient Spike which is what lightning discharges create. Even a nearby strike can induce very fast but very high voltages.

First: that would be illegal in the US. Second: there is no way to decode modern cellphone communication unless you have government backdoors. You might get some meta data using an IMSI catcher. You‘d better be the with the government with such tactics…..that sh*t is very very illegal for regular joe….

the powers that be are scared of you being able to hear there scrambled noise. from a off the shelf unit. but the real threat to them is the guy who can build his own stuff, including the decoding gear. but then they are employed by the cia working in the langley, va. phone hub.

Thank you for that info.

You are absolutely right. The 90-degree method I mention is to locate the exact azimuth for maximum signal and (hopefully) least noise. I also de-tune the position to avoid local noise pickup. Obviously, a rotatable antenna has many advantages. Thanks for your points.

I don't know about the headphone jack, but the speaker jack is a differential output and neither of the lines may be connected to common ground. If you use a remote speaker in a car, be sure that neither of the speaker lines is grounded to the speaker's frame which is 'likely' grounded.

Hi Andrew: All the info is here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKu9l3ykpdpggq8

Me too. Been thinking about it for way too long, then decided to "just do it."

Peter. Because of the bands we are concerned with, it isn't very critical. I generally use #26 solid wire.

John, the AGC circuit in a receiver is like an audio leveler. Loud signals are reduced to reasonable levels so they don't blast your ears, but also to keep from overdriving subsequent stages of th radio. Low or weak signals are automatically increased to allow the radio to operate normally and (possibly) increase noise refuction.

@@n1kpr Thank you

There are several videos about Proscan here that show active tvs displayes even telephone hookups

Steven. Because of the bands we are concerned with, it isn't very critical. I generally use #26 solid wire.

Hi Dan: Yes, I've played with that. I first used a Terk Advantage, but later one of my own design about 10" diameter. Your suggestion really works and I had a lot of fun doing that late at night with DX AMers. Later, I did the opposite of that and gimbal mounted a ferrite antenna within the air loop antenna. This allowed any angle vector and coupled nicely to the air loop. Again more fun during the hours of good skip reception. Thanks for looking and your perception of what can be done with this technology.