@@signandsealphilippines1040 I can only advise you to use whatever AMSOIL recommends in their online lookup guide at www.amsoil.com . Best wishes.

@@Sleepy731 It probably wouldn't be your best choice, especially if your engine is still equipped with emission controls, such as cat converters in exhaust. The additives in the Dominator could shorten the life of them. Signature Series motor oil would be your best choice for your 5.7 Hemi.

@ thanks for the reply

@@edwardoperez1663 Short answer - YES. Automatic transmissions go thru their own version of "break-in" during first few thousand miles of use, where the clutch discs mate with each other and shed the very thin top layer of material. This dust-like material gets into the fluid, and by changing the fluid after this break-in process, you get rid of it and allow the newly added fluid a much cleaner operating environment. I usually change the fluid again at least 2 more times (drain and fill) and if possible, change the filter on the 3rd service. I try to space the drain-and-fills out about 15,000 miles each, but that should be adjusted based on condition of the fluid coming out. After you complete the 3rd service, and assuming you are using Signature Series fluid, you may never need to change it again, depending on how you drive it.

@@MrTraverseCity What year is the car?

@@samsalem2793 This propylene glycol coolant can be mixed at any ratio, including 100% straight in extreme cold areas. No issues with copper.

@@Best-Synthetic-Oilscom Thank you very much. For submersible motors, what is the concentration of propylene glycol when the well water temperature is higher than 37°C and when it is lower than that?

Thanks for contacting me. First: Why are you using an SAE 60 oil in your engine? Is it heavily modified (high compression, high rpm, alternate fuel, etc), or does is use / leak a lot of oil that would push you into that heavy oil? Since you aren't concerned about Primary or Transmission, you can really fine-tune your engine oil for max performance and protection, and that might not be SAE 60. The lower viscocity of oil that you use, the easier it will start, the sooner the oil will flow to the top of the engine, and the less power you will be losing to friction created by the heavier oil. The RD 60 Racing Oil is also several dollars per quart more expensive, and it is formulated for extreme conditions, including high compression / high rpm alcohol fueled engines. I'd like to hear more about your engine and how you ride it before I make a more definite recommendation. Tom Brown 678.787.3028

My service manual tells me anything above 80F ambient temperature to used SAE 60. I live in 100-110 weather , by 9:00am it’s already 90f

I ride very aggressive in this weather being on an air cooled bike I want to keep temps low so I run an oil cooler. I am mostly riding through city but I also like to rip through the canyons as well.

@@Best-Synthetic-Oilscom I am also running Feulings 525 Cam, oil pump and Camplate along with their lifters and pushrods.

@@SimpleMistaken Ok thanks. H-D's nearly 25-year old recommendation for SAE 60 was 3 years before they released their own Screamin' Eagle Syn3 lubricants (2003), so all of the recommendations were based on their conventional oils available at the time. If you really wanted to dial-in your oil viscocity, start with 20W-50 (like AMSOIL MCV) run it for an oil change interval, and at the end of it, submit an oil sample to a lab for testing. If the viscocity held up (didn't shear down too thin), then you could try going to a LIGHTER viscocity, such as 10W-40, and repeat process. If the 20W-50 did shear down too thin, then go to the SAE 60, and I'd start with the Motorcycle oil first (cheaper) and only go to the RD60 as a last resort. The lighter/thinner oil you can run without doing any damage, the better your bike engine will run (less internal friction) and the longer it will last without suffering from cold-start wear caused by thick oil. Tom Brown 678.787.3028.

AMSOIL recommends their 10W-30 Small Engine Oil (product code ASE) for any application calling for SAE 30 or 10W-30. If you need additional viscocity to reduce oil consumption, you can move to the 10W-40 Small Engine Oil (product code ASF), or even 15W-50 (code SEF). There is also a 5W-30 Small Engine Oil (AES), recommended for colder climates.

@@Best-Synthetic-Oilscom thank you

If Yamaha calls for a 10W-40, then I would recommend AMSOIL 10W-40 Metric Motor Oil, product code MCF.

yes I have a gladiator and switched to 5w30 sounds alot quiter and better because the heat I'm in Central fl but yea my last oil change was free from the dealer ow20 synthetic blend my motor sounded like a sewing machine

I would say that the Scooter Oil wouldn't cause any wet clutch issues (slipping, etc), but it probably isn't the first choice for the Honda machine. Check out the Product Lookup Guide on AMSOIL website for best recommendations. If you have some Scooter Oil and want to use it, then it would probably perform better than any conventional ATV/UTV Motorcycle oil.

The AMSOIL European oils are formulated to meet the applicable European emission requirements and the change intervals are matched to the longest interval specified by the vehicle OEM. If a Signature Series and European oil from AMSOIL both meet the oil specification for your vehicle, the Signature Series can be run for either 15,000 miles / 1-year (Severe Conditions) or 25,000 miles / 1-year (Normal conditions). The European oil can be run to the longest OEM interval. In general, the more expensive an AMSOIL product is, the longer the change interval.

You could, but you shouldn't unless no other oil of lighter weight (lower viscosity) will provide the protection you need, and you will only really know that by conducting oil analysis. If you use an oil that is too thick/heavy, you will pay a viscocity penalty in the form of less power due to increased internal friction from the oil, and accelerated wear at start-up on a cold engine. Additionally, if your engine is equipped with catalytic converters, the RD series racing oils could cause harm if used for extended periods, as they have zinc and phosphorus levels that are above the limits for street engines.

Before I answer your question, I'll ask a question of my own: Why are you using such a heavy oil? Is the engine getting a lot of fuel into the oil? Is the engine running hot and you are trying to provide better heat protection? Do you have oil analysis services available?

Dexron 6 was always backwards compatible with all previous Dexron products, and recommended for use in all GM automatic transmissions that used any Dexron fluid. Dexron 6 fluid will provide you with better fuel economy and improved cold weather performance. If you use a premium full-synthetic version of Dexron 6, you can also extend service intervals as well. I highly recommend it.

AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient ATF (product code ATL) is superior to all AMSOIL OE ATF fluids (OTF and OTL). The SS fluid will provide better performance, especially in high-performance / harsh conditions, and will last longer as well.

I get better results in oil analysis with amsoil xl over signature series, oe should be same as xl.

AMSOIL European 5W-40 FS 5W-40 would be my first choice. For better start-up protection in cooler weather, use the FS 0W-40.

@@Best-Synthetic-Oilscom Any reason why FS would be better than LS or MS? I'm really trying to understand this. Mike

@@thechallengestradale Higher levels of SAPS additives can provide the oil with better protective and performance qualities, but is also believed to contribute to emission control equipment poisoning that is installed on newer engines. Higher SAPS are also believed to contribute to air pollution thru tailpipe emissions. The European car companies and regulating bodies starting using the FS / MS / LS destinctions several years ago to quickly and easily separate oils into these 3 broad categories. You can use lower level SAPS oils (i.e. MS or LS) in older cars that call for FS, but not the other way around - unless the emission control equipment has been removed, in which case, run whatever protects and performs best.

@@Best-Synthetic-Oilscom thanks for these replies. Do on a 2004 Ferrari, there is no drawback to FS? Only the benefit of more wear protection? Do the LS oils give less protection fur the engine?

@@thechallengestradale In general, the LS oils are formulated against newer oil specifications, and those specificaations generally require higher quality base oils. So while the LS oils have lower levels of SAPS as compared to MS and FS oils, if the LS oil is blended with stronger base oil, the protection level will be equal to or greater than FS oils blended with lower quality base oils.

AMSOIL MTF is the correct fluid for your transmission. Now whether it will cure all of your shifting problems is another matter, but worth a try. If you have a mechanical problem, such as worn synchronizer, worn or broken gears, bearings, shifting forks, this fluid won't perform magic tricks and fix those issues.