The ones that require no modifications are Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 and Dodge Hellcat. You'll need narrow wheels with 0mm offset on all 4 though. Personally I do my shopping at banzaihobby.com. They have all current Mini-Z parts. Another place is rcmart.com.

Any japan bodies?

The wheels are from Mini-Q and they are not available anymore. Nowadays you can find PN Racing, GL Racing and DXR wheels that are of much better quality and they aren't expensive either.

@@BeaversHobby thanks also whats a good body to fit on my wltoys k969 like a good one with no mods thats affordable

@@BeaversHobbymany of them i look at im like that will fit but i need an expert at this😂 since buying then right now i wont be able to find good ones cause all of them are offsale.

Here. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005665035474.html If it's sold out you can search for "JR Module Adapter Frsky Xlite" and you should find some.

@@BeaversHobby Is it good quality? Cuz I don't want this to break on me when flying 40km away😂

@@NorgeSquad Well, it's basically a bunch of wires stuck on a 3D printed frame. So, it's reliable but I wouldn't say it's good quality.

The best ESC + Motor combo for drifting is either Furitek Microboost with Lumapower motor or Hobbbywing Mini 28 with EZRun 1626 motor. Furitek has the lighting effects which is a bit of a gimmick but it's the right kind for a drift car. Hobbywing is a race-proven kit. Gyro, either GT55 V4/V5 or AFRC GTS-2 V4 are great. GT55 has better filter for the wheel shake. AFRC works great if you use a programmable servo. As for the servo, AGF A11CLS or AFRC D2114TG-S are the best. I'm not sure Kodama takes this size or the narrower AGF A06CLS so check again. Battery, can't go wrong with GNB or Gaoneng. I have a bunch if them and accidently over discharged some quit a few times and they still work great. Transmitter is really up to personal preference. Flysky Noble Plus or Noble Pro, Futaba 4PM and Sanwa MT-5 are all great. More than this are going towards extremely professional (and ridiculously expensive) radios like Futaba 10PX and Sanwa M17. All of them have micro receiver by GT55/DasMikro.

I'm sorry I don't know what JJRC cars use. There are a few JJRC on the project so you can take a look at the list. github.com/pascallanger/DIY-Multiprotocol-TX-Module/blob/master/Protocols_Details.md

The pinion is tight fit on the shaft so it's not coming off that easily. Just don't file the shaft or the screw too much and it won't come loose.

Yes, if you want to run it as a touring car or grip setup then changing the diffs to the original ones is better.

@BeaversHobby Thank you

Depends on the size of your track. If it's under 3M wide then 3500KV with 17T (original ratio) is the optimal. Otherwise 5500KV can be used in any size and you can adjust the motor pinion, use 12T-15T for smaller tracks and 17T for bigger tracks.

@@BeaversHobbyThank you very much for such a detailed answer! You are very responsive and do a lot for RC car lovers. Best wishes! )

If the output from the receiver is 3 pin and goes into 5 pin on the servo side then it can be done. You'll have to put the controller in between the 3 wire side and 5 wire side.

@BeaversHobby I think we shall leave his alone. My MAX seems simple to upgrade. Might just get him one as well for ease once he's killed the SG316 he has.

G7P will be more than enough and it already has a good latency with consistency. It also has crawler mixing that is easy to setup. MT12 is only good if you want to tinker with the settings and you are already familiar with the EdgeTX.

I personally like 94mm. But you can make anything work. If you have the narrow 98mm then it'll be a bit more stable but can't provoke a slide as easily as a shorter car.

@BeaversHobby Thank you for the reply. But which one will make me drift better as beginners?

@@TheGlitterMan It will be the same to learn how to control the drift. Don't worry about it. 98mm will give you a bit more leniency when you throw it into a corner and won't spin as easily as shorter wheelbase.

@BeaversHobby Thanks.

15T motor pinion with original spur is what I feel the best for drifting.

It's just a washer so anything the same size will work. If you have the version that came without bearing, it's the same washer that goes into the front wheel. Outer diameter 6mm, inner diameter (hole) 2mm, width (thickness) 2.5mm. Original part number MZ6BK.

@BeaversHobby Thanks for sharing!

@@fwfefrtefdv4719 My pleasure.

Yes, if the shaft is the same size. The gear itself is the same size for both new and old so it'll work.

@BeaversHobby same size how? So I need a new shaft to use the new pinion?

It depends if you still get the old version or has it been updated too. You really can't tell until you get the car. At the end of the day it's all the same car and you'll have to change the wheels anyway. So, just choose the body you like.

If it's the original part then it will wear down after a bit. The cogs on the pinion might be too thick.

Yes. But you might need a new shaft too. Mini 4WD motor pinion is 8T 0.5mod so outside it's the same as centre shaft pinions. However the shaft is too thick in the new version and in the old version it has a notch that won't fit the Tamiya gear.

Yes, it'll bolt to the mount just fine. The problem is at the back. Most sensored motor have flat bottom and won't fit inside the bracket. You'll have to find a mount that has only the hole at the front and no rear bracket. Take a look at PN Racing. They should have it. By the way, Mini-Z is always relevant. They don't really change things.

Yes, you will have to unplug the gyro and set the EPA with only the gyro first before plugging it in again to set new EPA. Unfortunately, so far I haven't able to figure out a way to reset this gyro to default (no EPA) yet.

No, it came out at the same time so it's just the bigger one.

@BeaversHobby do they still make these

@@JoshuaIsCringe Unfortunately, no. It's not in production anymore.

I don't know if I'll get it though. It's the same chassis with different CVD and wheels. That's pretty much it.

@@BeaversHobby I was wondering how the 1/28 wltoys platform would do as a buggy. My first thought when I saw the car was that the larger wheels would make the gears break faster.

@@JoshuaIsCringe The gears are now more durable but yes, the whole car will wear out faster with bigger wheels. I used to have the P929 which is a predecessor of the new buggy. It worked decently well on bumpy surface that the small wheels can't negotiate. But because of the small suspension travel it doesn't jump well. Well, the part where it goes up is fine. The landing is not.

Take a look at TG Racing. It'll be around $180. With wheels, tyres and body it should come in around $220 depending on the body you choose. The electronics, if you go with the budget but good set is around $65 for BYRC Hobbywing 18A combo ($25), AGFRC B05CLS servo ($10) and Dasmikro gyro ($30). You can swap the B05CLS servo with A11CLS and you'll have much better steering precision but it's $60. If you don't have a transmitter yet, Flysky G7P is a great choice. Otherwise if you want to keep the budget low, DumboRC DDF 350 will do fine. Battery: GNB 2S 350mAh is about $10 a piece. Charger, this one depends on your local store but take a look at SkyRC S65AC. I use ISDT 608PD for a pocket charger (and it uses my phone adapter for power supply).

I can’t find the motor esc combo listed in this comment can you tell me model numbers? Thanks in advance

@ It's this one. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002919336408.html Unfortunately, there's no model number. It's just 18A Brushless ESC from BYRC shop.

That gear isn't supposed to be glued but it has a notch that goes on the shaft and locks it into place. Try turning it around to feel the notch and it should slide into there. In the previous versions it coupled with the rear pinion gear that goes into the gearbox. In the new version it's locked into the shaft.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you beaver, you saved me haha

It might be that the gyro direction is wrong. Try and reverse the direction. It should turn the wheel to the direction you swing it to. If it can only swing one way and not the other, try and set the EPA again so it takes both sides. If none of these work then it's defective.

Yes, it is. In the current version there are light ports on the all-in-one unit and they output passthrough from the battery. So if you use that port, you might need a stepdown to whatever volt the transponder runs on. Otherwise if it's 5V you can use the output from the servo port.

@BeaversHobby thank you again for your quick response. I am new to hobby grade rc. I wsd thinking of purchasing the k989 and then adding the lapmonitor min transponder

No, this one is not. I only got the old one without gyro.

@BeaversHobby dude, you're the best, even it has no gyro but you were drifting so great

Yes, that's the DumboRC 10A ESC but with only necessary pins on it. I install it in order to use my own transmitter. Here's the tutorial. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eITXaIhjrrSUarM Although the ESC is different, the method is the same.

Yes. Remove the top plate or bar first. The ESC is bolted to the bar from underside. Then you'll see some screws to take out and you can open it.

@BeaversHobby i accidentally ripped the power cable from inside the ESC, can i just solder it back myself?

@@JoshuaIsCringe Yes, you can solder it back. There's nothing to worry about.

BMR-X is the best value as of now. TG Racing is also good. Find these 2 and see which one you can get the cheapest. Just look at the chassis and wheels (they use different wheels). All the rest will be the same, same motor, ESC, gyro, battery and transmitter.

No, K969 can't connect to Flysky. It's a different firmware. You can bind it with Multiprotocol though.