I have a mixed set of these and augers from my great-grandfather that have fallen into neglected state. Wgenever i tried to use them, they kept splitting the lumber. I couldnt figure out why. Im gonna be trying this and the auger video out to see if i can get them nice again. I much prefer handtools.

Sirji no do muje lena hai❤

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why use 400 grit before the wire wheel? Surely the wheel will remove surface rust and scale, even down in crevices, that the 400 grit wouldn't reach? Second order question: since this is an expansion bit and the hole diameter will be larger than the main body of the bit, why not descale and polish the outer face of the spur and main body, at least to reduce friction? Third, why is a handscrew needed to secure the backing board when both are secured in the same vise? Use of a backing board, and not going all the way through from one side, belongs also in you auger boring videos to prevent splintery blowout on the far side of the hole.

I'm always battling rust accumulation on my tools.... Suggest that a fine wire wheel would get the knurled grooves cleaner than 0000 steel wool, but maybe using power tools is not allowed. I wonder if anywhere there is a chart comparing the abrasive qualities of steel wool to the wet-dry sandpapers available? Maintaining patina is one thing but getting a fine finish is sometimes an end in itself. My dad's old brace had red tinted wood handles... probably another brand(?) Could be my next little project: cleaning and sharpening the drawknife I have that's identical to that in the closing shot. There goes the rest of the day!

Well done! I used the process shown in parts 1 and 2 when I recently re-sharpened one of an old set I'd gotten at a garage sale. My dad had a very nice set back in the day, Stanley I think, when they were still a respected name in hand tools. The wire wheel on a drill press (or in my case a bench grinder) will de-rust a bit well, but there are many other processes than can be used to remove rust from metal surfaces, including electrolysis. There are many YT videos on that process, with or without electrical current. I got a set of small files at Lowes which seem to cut the auger metal easily. It's not as tough steel as I thought it would be, but much of the restoration is simply removing old rust to achieve a smooth, sharp edge. One more thing to note is that the outer perimeter of the auger flights should be polished for minimum resistance and friction as the hole is bored deeper. This is easy enough with some wet-dry sandpaper and a flat surface. My bit now eats wood like a champ! Last note: drilling a small hole through the workpiece will keep the auger bit from blowing out the back side, or a wood backing will also prevent blowout. Question: how do you recommend keeping these bits from rusting up again? Lately I've used beeswax and turpentine, mixed to a stiff paste, which I rub on with a finger or bit of rag. Anyone who recommends Johnson Paste Wax has been out beyond radio for many years: the old yellow can is NLA or sells for over $100 if you can find it.

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Greetings from Australia. Nice work on the brace, my Dad had one. The small axe / Tommohawk on the board caught my eye. My brother & I have one each from our Grandfather, one is left, the other right handed. Have you done a restoration video on it? Mine needs a new / repaired handle.

Ty for this

As a carpenter and joinery 71 years old, I used abrade and bit all the time, it's a great cordless tool. I still have my original stanley brace and all my bits as well all of my other kit from the old days. Although semi retired, I still do a little carpentry for income with hi quality battery power tools. I maintain that for hanging a door , installation of handle and lock a brace and bit is a fantastic tool in every carpenter's arsonal.

Masterpiece work! Thank you! Suggestions: To start a cut with the saw, I learned to use my thumb finger against the blade, not the teeth, then pull the saw over the mark softly, 2-3 times pulled softly will or may be enough to make a grove to start pushing the cut, if regular saw or pulling if Japanese. I would not put my finger near the teeth of a saw while cutting. That's why I asked you "do you need to cut your finger?" I erased that comment. While you were cutting the pyramid tenon, your finger was at millimeters of being cut, I don't think you need to get it cut, please keep it away from your saw teeth! If you place a rule or square or perfect straight metal over the final tenon you'll see a belly you may want to work, and maybe a millimeter or little off of the initial diameter of the beginning of the handle because it may be stumbling its entrance, you may want to work it out with sand paper as of you were polishing shoes, all around. Just go easy until you feel happy with the results!

Bom demais

Beautiful workmanship!

Parabéns Mestre, muito bom ! ! !

Thank you for shareing this knowledge, I have learnt a lot and most of this stuff is lost

How do I sharpen top of snail screw when blunt as it does not pull into timber . Thanks

Love your videos! I also love restoring old tools that I find in antique shops. Junk yards and thrift stores. Thanks for sharing!

too good, thanks for bringing the legacy back and great share

Really happy to have found your channel, Can you share what are you using (Spraying) to clean the brace?

Simply beautiful!

WOW! I'm gonna try this on my auger bits!

cool video, as detailed as anyone could wish for.. i have one of these for a few years but had not yet got to work on it, and now when looking at it i'm afraid the rust and pitting is a bit to much to save it.. hope i come across another better preserved one to restore soon though.. cheers

Very nice gives me an idea.

Well done! I'm going to mention this video (and your channel) in the next episode of Wood Carving Weekly.

Beautiful

Nice job.

Beautiful.

Thanks for showing us your method and sharing your knowledge. I would like to know what it is that you mean by numbering the auger drill bits No. 2 and thru No. 8? Was there a numbering system ? .... A nieghbor gave me a box filled to remove the rust....Is it important. Thank you again...Deeman OORAH!!

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Great job on the Russell Jennings #8! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. This series is outstanding!

Very informative. Thanks.

I was mightily relieved to see how you preserved the patina on the handle, using steel wool and not a belt sander!!! Kudos to you for for that. However I noticed you didn't restore the medallion? While I understand your concern for the piece, the best, and safest method is to use ammonia and 0000 grade still wool, not foregetting good vernitalion for the fumes. Gentle but firm rubbing will give you a magnificent finish that does not remove but polishes, thereby preserving any tiny marks that give the saw its character. The well-restored medallion puts the final touch to a remarkable antique saw that will delight everyone who sees it.

That was fun, great job and thanks for making this video.

Brillante y mucha paciencia

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I’m the middle of restoring a vintage set of augers from the states and this video has covered every issue I’m having thank you!

Very nice to see hand work, especially done so lovingly. Thanks for sharing. By the way, that piece of Pearwood is particularly beautiful- it ended up looking almost like Alabaster!

Cuts like a dream, and that’s worth the price of admission.

Waaayyy too much work up front! Take a few paper towels soaked in vinegar and keep it wet for a few hours. Scrub with a vinegar-soaked ScotchBrite, rinse and 90% of that scraping is eliminated. Follow up with 120 grit sandpaper with oil and you’re done. Then the real work begins.

Nice work, beautiful restoration.

Man, you are way more patient than I am with those threads. I would have sprayed it with Simple Green and gotten out my brass brush!

Thank you Sir.🎉

Very useful.Thanks.❤

Really informative and helpful thank you

Pretty sure that's the exact same froe I have sitting next to me😆

Wonderful work! Very nice. Down the rabbit hole I go! 🫠

🎉🎉greetings from Suriname 🇸🇷. Nice job Sir

Nice job.

fabulous! Good work!

So Rad brother! Just awesome and absolutely amazing work 👍…. I am working on mine this week but no KZbin video yet! I’m about 2-3 years in restoration projects! So Fun and I learn so much from guys like you!