Thanks, very helpful

Why you skipped sketch 2 in the video? Please make a details video on it please 🙏🙏

hi this is nagendra my question is how to XML file creation

Insert is it materail?

how/where can i purchase these water filters?

When I do this arc length method with a plate, with fixed connections at the top and bottom, much like an inner web I-beam, I get that the plate is buckling move in the longitudinal direction than the transverse direction. Any help?

what is the name of the plastic in the mold?

i run into an issue in the assembly that when I delete the feature it loses the reference points, which doesn't seem to be an issue when you're using the axis but what if I wanted to use the point?

Thank you!! Your video is really useful.

BROOOOOO!!!!!! THIS PROBLEM HAD ME STUCK FOR 4 DAYS!!!! Thank you.

One suggestion, try using square nuts as opposed to hex nuts as they don’t wear out the plastic as easy as hex nuts in case of over tightening.

But 3D printing iteself is a slow process, isn`t it?

This is exactly the solution that I'm looking for.. Thanks a lot 👍👍

great presentation--thank you--I'm trying to do this quickly (of course) and you answered quickly. One thing I wish you would have done is finish it--that is you mentioned 'another feature' to finish the end--obviously that partial fillet end isn't going to be made that way. So far I have to make a sweep in with a tool shape to really make this feature. SW is really moving in the right direction parallel with CAM--but let's make it real. I'm disappointed you have few views--this is a good quick demo! Maybe future version SW gives us the rotating tool shape possibility for partials!

When I try to check the geometry nothing happen. It doesnt show the tool in the bottom side

How much is this in the USA

Know of a decent scanner that doesn't cost $24,800, one in a hobbyist price range?

Cool! Good printing!

Congratulations! You just openly violated the terms of service for those 3d models.

What is the white raft under each of your prints?

bruh all you did was press pause..

Hanzhen harmonic drive gear , robot jonit , strain wave reducer, over 30 years experience

great video!

5:00 sir, you might want to see a chiropractor for your back. heavy, repeated lifting, such as that massive cranium, may strain it.

Well done! I know some of these methods but the carbon fiber and the way to avoid support are very impressive!

What material is he using for those massive rafts on almost every print?

This is fantastic. It exemplifies an entirely new way to optimize 3D printing with FDM. I’ve done this technique with magnets and nuts but this video opens my eyes to much bigger possibilities. It also generates a lot of discussion below that is also very helpful. A bunch of us have already been doing this a little bit, here and there, but this video opened up the discussion. Really valuable.

Strangely, my biggest take-away from this is the non-metal, large overhang part you printed there. Had never thought of that. Other than that, I've used the "Pause at Height" post processing script with Cura and have imbedded weights in fidget spinners, magnets in a cup bottom so it's secure on metal surfaces , and a bunch of other things.

If the torque is high enough to require a metal sprocket this part is going to fail instantly on the small plastic studs in the middle. Use some metal studs at least...

Maybe a silly question, but why did you add the insert to the outer edge and not the inner surface where the screws are?

Thank you for this video, really opened up alot of options for my projects, i will surely stay tuned for future videos :)

Every time he says Fortis, Stratasys or Insight, you should just hear "any FDM printer / software". But the tips themselves are very usable

The dislikes are from Honda.

The e3d tool changer is ideal for this. Basically you have a pick and place tool to drop in the nuts... no manual intervention needed.

I'm still new to 3d printing, and tried to incorporate an ncf chip into one of the designadjustments I made. Maybe it's because I'm still so new, but I was afraid that the chip wouldn't fit, so I made the room for the chip larger. These parts fit so snug into the design, what hints do you have for me so I can improve this type of design in the future? (Apart from finally taking the time and learning better how to work with fusion 360🙈). Also, when I sliced my design in cura to pause at the layer height I needed the print to pause before inserting the nfc Chip, the first time it blew right past it.. Oo

thanks for sharing .

Excellent examples of great engineering solutions to problems with FDM printers. However, it should be clarified that Stratasys Fortus printers, while very reliable machines, are far from the only ones capable of these "pause" behaviors. PrusaSlicer and Cura both natively include the ability to pause at desired layers. You can do this on any $100-$1000 printer, it doesn't need to be a $50,000 Stratasys.

congrats with the rubbing chain on your timing belts

2:45 first thought: clearance between belts and chain? ...

I'm flabbergasted how these techniques blew my mind... I don't know how I never thought of stoping a print midway through. Thanks for the inspiration!

What material did you use as a white raft under the build that you separated with a puddy knife?

Deam, this is brilliant! I just made a part with cutouts to insert hex nuts (using supports), but this makes more sense.

This is that amazing information you're grateful to learn while also feeling like a moron for not thinking of yet.

Open my eyes to including metal. Do you edit the geocode files by hand to pause at the exact position or does the software generate the code for you?

Love this

So Cool😉

1:30 "The roller chain sprocket is going to need to be made out of metal because of high force on the part" * Uses 3d printed plastic pegs printed onto the belt sprocket to transfer torque with a sheer force across the layer lines at a smaller radius than the sprocket *

This is an very useful video. Great ideas for all sorts of inserts. Humble suggestion, when inserting nuts i found it worth buying an inexpensive square nut assortment in place of hex nuts. The longer edges are less prone to deforming the plastic and spinning if you get a stuck part.

The tip to save supports is realkly great. But a lot of the others are kinda bad by design as you completly lose any maintainability of the produced parts. The idea of pausing and semi assembling a part is an interessting one, but not if you lose maintainability or have to scrap the whole thing if you need to change a little aspect.

I thought the dowel pins on the sprocket should be bigger for plastic