I've decided to run Series because of this video, thank you.

Just bought a lifepo4 Renogy Lycan 1075wh power box, which had no capacity, partly balanced the cells manually, and it was greatly improved, bought an active 1.2a inductive balancer, and run a few cycles, it's gaining 45wh every time it's cycled, currently its up to 750wh.

What would be the cause for a CB to pop? In the last week I’ve had both pop one at a time. The only thing I have running is the fridge? The. Inverter battery indicator shows four bars.

Assuming you size the cabling to be equivalent loss (e.g. higher gauge wires for parallel panels), the peak production will be very similar. However, the real benefit of series is that they will reach the minimum voltage level of the controller earlier in the morning and later in the evening, allowing you to capture slightly more overall energy per day. This is especially true when you are comparing larger systems with 48v battery. Most 150V max PV input controllers will have a typical "turn on" voltage of ~80V when used with a 48V battery system. If you have 6x 55V MPP panels, with a 2S3P panel configuration, no power will be collected until each panel exceeds 40V (loaded) production. However, with a typical 500V max PV input controller and a ~80V "turn on" voltage, in a 6S1P panel configuration, production will begin when each panel reaches just 13.3V (loaded). It would make an awesome video if you did a test to show the overall daily production difference between series and parallel as I don't think I've seen such a test !

I think it was a vid from Australia.Ever see a bat called the Beast 12v 608ah.Looked heavy .

Wire your panels in series not in parallel or at least make sure you alternate?

That’s a great looking install.

Did you lose your comb?

I have an ORV with a similar setup. I pulled the fireplace to run the power and cerbo through that wall.

Question? Why do you continue to use those crappy old fashioned batteries. You could put three Epoch 300 amp hour batteries in that same area. Or four LiTime 230 amp hour plus batteries in that same area. Or Big Beard 300 amp hour batteries. All three brands of batteries have better BMSs with 200 amp hours continuously. Your still the man, but think about it?

Brilliant! Gotta love that battery compartment. That's what I call thinking outside the box.

I have a 555 watts solar panel & a 12v 100ah battery. What MPPT charge controller should I use on these?

Good infor.❤

I think you have the panels in parallel rather than series in parallel the amps out are added but in reality you should be exploiting the mppt controller for its max pv in other words panels in series your average solar of 450 watts 450 divide volts eg 30v=15a or if its 40v panel 450/40 its 11.25a in parallel its 2 times these figures so 30a or 22.5a all within the capability of that victron then if you wire in series the amps dont double the volts doubles to 30=30v all within the pv spec of the victron so i have no idea what is happening here in truth in series you could have 3 panels on

That 100/50 seems to be the sweet spot price vs. capability. Then try to get more with 24v or more.

How long was the cable from the Cerbo GX to display?

The “show & No touch” trick is 110% a golden thing , we had two and they both love to tease more then chase the toy … until they allow you to throw it !! Great videos!!! Love dogs and Solar!!!

I have class A !! Should I go 24 volt system or stay with 12 volt???

How do I get the special little cable?

watching a few of these videos, I wonder if the current can be like 20a but after a long enough time it would pop open. which is not ideal for a charger current of 30A expected to run all day

Sorry to add more solar panels . I had a local solar guy try to add . But he couldn’t figure out where to pipe a 2nd set of wires , so he tied in as a pair.a 440 and the 370 stock panel. I wanna add two more 2 -440’s

I LIKE THE OLDER VERSION BETTER. THANKS FOR SHOWING

Any help with a drop on a 2023 grand design 303RLS drop….?

Any thoughts about connecting the two types of batteries in series or parallel?

Couldn't you just run a diode between the battery types so you don't get that power bleed? If you do this, then in theory, the gel batteries should only start drawing down once the voltage on the lithium drops below the resting rate of the gel. About 85% discharge of the lithium. Which would make the gel batteries a true backup. Just run a separate shunt for the gel batteries to show when they are drawing current so you know you are on reserves.

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

Can you explain what you do to route the main power wire to the multiplus? Why are you disconnecting the main rv input wire? I don’t follow what you’re doing there and how you route the new wires and why you’re not keeping or reusing the original rv input wire that already is routed to the main fuse panel?

It figures that your channel found me after I completed my own solar installation. You've got great content, and I really appreciate the tip about flattening the bottom of the lugs....guess I'll be doing that soon.

Thank you for making this video. Lots of RV'ers, including myself, are adding solar power and LiFePO4 batteries for "house" batteries but have an AGM start battery. While putting the 2 types of batteries in parallel may be OK with the engine off (the solar powered LiFePO4 maintaining the AGM), the engine's alternator puts out a tremendous amount of amps. In my care it's 160 amps which could do some serious damage to a LiFEPO4 battery and possibly ruin the alternator. I have read that some people put a fuse between the AGM and the LiFEPO4 batteries while others use a breaker. What are your thoughts on this?

any bifacial experiments?

1590W Solar through 500V dual pole cutoff switch into Victron 150/60 charge controller Quattro 24/5000 with 2 24V 200 WH batteries servicing a complete RV rewire after gutting, new framing, subfloors, insulation, walls ceilings, macerator toilet, 36x6 foot walk-in shower and entertainment center. All for less than half the cost of a small piece of showroom junk from the dealership

I have one just like it made in USA, or labeled that way

How do you make the end caps for the wire raceway?

Was this ever turned into a kit? Or would you be open to selling a digital design?

Honestly, a lot of this went over my head, however I think that based on what you said, anyone wanting to run an AC for more that 30-60 minutes should consider stepping up to a 48V system. Wouldn’t this be anyone who would possibly want to explore the SW in their van during most of the year? I understand that the biggest impediment to going with a 48V system would be inability to charge with a factory installed alternator, but the alternator could be replaced or a secondary alternator could be installed? Do you have a video describing the details for this? Finally, I think that the other big problem is running most of the electrical devices that aren’t compatible with 48V so you can buy some Orion device that solves that problem? Also, for some reason which I don’t understand if you have 400ah of batteries with a 12V system you only need 1/4 or 100ah with a 48V system? Now I plan to watch your other videos to help figure all this stuff out.

So I have 2 of these, and the same thing happened to one of them. This is why I prefer the newer prismatic cell because they are typically in a 4S1P configuration internally for most batteries (unless its a higher capacity one like 400AH). These older renogys have multiple in parallel and in my case there were several dead individual cells and multiple batteries that have horrible self discharge. So I could manually charge each bank to full, and hook the battery up, it would be fully charged and work, but as you drain the battery as a whole I would have a bank that died faster then others, even if i didnt put a load on it for a few weeks. The only way to fix it, is to have 2 batteries in this state and combine good cells that dont have high self discharge, or potentially remove batteries, and drop it down to a 50AH battery. But that comes with its own issues because the BMS protections are for 100AH battery.

Moral of the story: NEVER buy anything from Amazon that has to work.

Craftsman adopted the blue/red for philips/standard on their screwdrivers decades ago. If it works!

Shawn, I also went with the 150/70 (two of them) on my system due to the high volts/amps that it will take before de-rating. My goal is for 2000-3000 watts on the primary controller (to push peak watts of production) and up to 2000 on the second controller.

I have a Transend and have been using a renogy 200 watt suitcase which i plug into the 10amp Furion prewired factory plug. I am using two 100 amp Gel batteries. Its not enough. I want to mount panels on the roof but not sure where to run them down. Where did they run them down on your project? If i run from the inverter to to lugs on the factory switch will that be sufficient and automatically switch when i plug into shore power? Augie

You don’t have to nip the lug is you get fuses that have a round recess in the body.

thanks love watching your vid's

I don’t think I’d want to be a mini split installer.Time consuming.I should be done Monday lol Mega time already into it ! 😮

Love it! Bear is a hoot, but missed neighbor dog Zuki (not sure how to spell it)

I see you are installing cooling fans more and more. Can you share more details on what fan you are using and go more into how you are "triggering" turning on the fan. Have you ever used a Ruuvi Tag and the Cerbo to control the fan?? Thanks again, Love you channel

What display are you using?

Great demonstration and observations. Surprisingly, I guessed the scenarios correctly. And, the short run with MPPT showed little benefit, as it should - longer distance and day's worth of output should be a bit higher yet. BTW, you said "blocking" diodes, but they should be bypass diodes (which think you know). Nice capacity setup.