Thanks, glad you like it! The rubber washer is just large enough to form a seal around the nozzle, but there's also a small metal washer in there to provide something for the nozzle to push against. Hope that helps?

James Ward cheers. Just 2 more questions 😅 what size nozzle hole did you use for the ejector. And did you try various cans? I tried a butane can today and it would not spray downwards.

@@andygreen8290 just nipped into the garage and measured it :) the internal diameter of the rubber washer is about 3.2mm, and the hole drilled in the brass cap is 4.5mm. The metal washer is 10mm OD and 3.2mm ID. My can is "contact cleaner", and it sits upright, nozzle pointing up.

Just realised you might have meant the hole size in the outlet, after the valve? That's smaller, probably 2mm (from memory, haven't measured it)

About 6 to 8 feet at a guess (about 2.4m)

@@jamesward408 Great, 2,4 m was high enough.. And how many time you can shot by using 1 bottle of aerosol?

@@yudhapahlevi975 I'm not sure - I got quite a few shots out of it, but didn't exhaust the whole can.

Thanks!

Hi Ankit, check out this video which shows the components and assembly, it might help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGKXdX9th5ece6c

Have the exact same solenoid valve

@@TradeMarkMusic23 do you hear the valve click open? If not, maybe it has failed. Could be a bad electrical connection, the solenoid coil could have burnt out, possibly a blockage in the valve, or maybe the cylinder isn't engaging properly with the inlet port.

@@jamesward408 I used carb cleaner as the source fluid . Hope that wouldnt cause a clog after one use . I was only hearing the click sound from the rods sparking

[email protected] is my email , if you wouldnt mind maybe talking me through a few things over the phone some time this week thatd be appreciated

@@TradeMarkMusic23 it sounds like the solenoid might have failed. Have you got access to a digital multimeter? I would disconnect the power and measure the resistance of the solenoid coils. If they are open circuit, the coil is probably burnt out. If you get a resistance reading, it may be an issue elsewhere,

Thanks for playing.

Hi Saurabh, thanks! The squares are spaced on a regular 10mm square grid, their internal size is 9.2mm and the walls between each square are 0.8mm thick. Hope that explanation makes sense? Best regards, James.

Thanks James. That answers perfectly.

The solenoid valve brand name was "Geerte", it runs on 12V DC and and has two 1/4" BSP female threads. This is the exact one I used: amzn.eu/jlcxRVJ I also used two 1/4" BSP Brass caps (www.toolstation.com/shop/p90866) which were drilled to make the inlet and outlet ports and two 1/4" BSP Brass hexagon nipples (www.toolstation.com/shop/p35521) which were sealed with PTFE tape (www.toolstation.com/shop/p67236). The metal and rubber washers came out of a selection kit. The rubber washer needs to be a tight fit to the aerosol nozzle, the metal washer needs to be slightly smaller internal diameter (this is what the aerosol nozzle pushes against, causing it to open when pushed into the inlet port). Drill the holes to the minimum size needed to fit. Take care to avoid leakage. In particular, be very careful when removing the aerosol, as quite a bit of gas/fluid accumulates in the valve and will spray back out when the aerosol is removed.

I'm sorry, I don't understand your question, please can you rephrase it?

Hi Gianna, I loosened the belts at the carriages, removed the stepper motor screws with long ball ended hex/Allen keys - it's really very difficult to access though, and the screw heads are easily damaged. Difficult but not impossible!

It's a small microswitch with a 3D printed bracket I designed - there's more information on my Thingiverse page (link is in the description above).

Hi Victor, it's a "Contact Cleaner" aerosol, which contains a mixture of Butane, IsoButane, Isopropyl alcohol and Propane.

Sure, you can find them in the firmware linked above, or I can look them out and send them to you tomorrow

feed=200, acceleration=3000, jerk=20

Hi there, I'm using Marlin 1.1.5 now. There are links to download both firmware versions on my Thingiverse page here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1976680

It was about £75 ($105)

Thanks. I've heard of those drivers, and it does seem effective (although I've not tried). However, having fitted dampers, the only real noise I hear is from the fans, and my next plan is to find some quieter fans to replace those!

Hi, no problem at all - the files are available on Thingiverse. The bed spacers/clamps are here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1982435 and the clips to hold the glass to the heat bed are here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1275136

Yes, just printed parts, a micro switch and some wires. All the details are on the thingiverse link above in the description.

James Ward thanks alot, is there different accuracy between switches?

Steamy Shane pretty much any microswitch should work

Hi! Yes, I used rubber feet (self adhesive) and made a base plate from MDF to mount a larger power supply. I designed some 3D printed stands to raise the printer, and cut aluminium side panels. All the details and 3D models are available here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2024677 Hope this helps?

That helps a lot, thanks for sharing and happy printing

No problem! Happy printing :-)

Hi there, no problem, I'll try and explain: I'm using a 12V power supply to power the solenoid valve (shown at the bottom right corner). The 12V power supply also goes to an "LM2596 DC to DC" voltage regulator (in the centre of the picture) to reduce the voltage to 3V (you have to use a volt meter and adjust the LM2596 with a small screwdriver to set the output voltage to 3V before connecting anything to the output of the LM2596). Pay attention to the positive/negative colour coding of the wires when connecting these. This 3V supply then goes to the black box at the top left, which is a "DC 3V to 7kV boost step-up" converter (both those modules are very cheap on eBay/Amazon etc if you search for the text quoted above). The output of the boost converter is several thousand volts, so be very careful to make sure nobody touches it. For the spark electrodes I used two pieces of copper wire, bent with pliers to leave a small spark gap (a few mm) between the ends. The electrodes are insulated and pushed through two holes drilled in a ceramic tile. As soon as you apply 12V power, the solenoid valve opens to release the fuel, and the sparks between the electrodes then ignite the fuel. Take care and stay safe!

I am a pyrotechnic, an Italian fireworks technician and I work with fire but I do not understand anything about electronics

but there is no danger of backfire and explosion of the cylinder

I thought you might be (saw some of your KZbin videos - very nice work!)

I would hesitate to say that there is no danger, but I know that you can buy commercial "fire machines" which use the same principle as this (for an example see this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3LdmZuYhN-HmKs)

Hi, my best guess is that the pulley version may have different measurements (delta rod length etc.) compared to the linear version, so you probably need to tweak some of the settings in the firmware. The best way would be to compare the settings between the original Anycubic firmware and the new firmware, to look for differences and make the necessary changes to the new firmware.

"Auto Levelling" by Marlin (remix)

It's hard to be sure, but it could perhaps be: 1) radius too large, 2) probe offset wrong, 3) uploading firmware without clearing EEPROM. Which firmware are you using? Have you made any changes to the settings to suit your printer?

Hi Syed, I just used regular white paper, the LEDs are pretty bright. You could also try sanding some perspex sheet.

Thanks James. I also found others using stencil films. Cheers.

This setting in Configuration.h controls the speed of movement between probes: #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 2000 These two set the speed of the probe as it approaches the bed: #define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z #define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2) In this case, they are set as a function of the HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z, but you could set them to your own preferred constant value of course. Hope this helps?

The speed of calibration is only reduced from HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z together with the return to home position! And Can reduce the speed of touching the sensor on the table without touching HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z And how to add 2 to more sensor touches on the table?

Hi, you can simply define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW to be a constant value like this: #define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW 800 This means you can leave HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z at the default. To make it probe twice you can uncomment this line: #define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH I've never tried any of the above, this is just from looking at the code quickly now, but I'm pretty sure it will work.

Thanks I will try!)

Taylor, the Origin button is almost flush, but it protrudes very slightly (~0.2mm). The On/Off and Zero/Abs protrude by about 1mm. photos.app.goo.gl/xNn3eH2HVUFiQdgN2