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@S.Aldulaimi Ай бұрын
I don't suppose you would sell the faulty controller?
@tonyfromcali81 3 ай бұрын
AWSOME BUILD
@JoseCampos-ux6vo 6 ай бұрын
❤
@dandahermitseals5582 8 ай бұрын
Is that the charger?? Im waaay off grid with solar and wind so what did you charge it with??
@scottkahre9206 8 ай бұрын
The charger is mounted in the rear cargo area. I put a J1772 connector in the old gas door, and I just use a 110v adapter cable to charge from a regular wall outlet. It pulls about 13 amps, and would take about 8 hours if it were completely dead.
@dandahermitseals5582 8 ай бұрын
Im old and poor. Whatdid it cost to do your conversion.?? And sourcing?
@scottkahre9206 8 ай бұрын
About $12k all-in. But that was 2017 -2019, and I “stole” the donor car. I bet it would cost $20k now.
@dandahermitseals5582 8 ай бұрын
So did you retain the clutch with your conversion?? Dandahermit?? I have a 91 two door Geo Tracker
@scottkahre9206 8 ай бұрын
Nope, the whole transmission is gone. Had an adapter shaft made and bolted the motor directly to the transfer case using part of the transmission tail housing as an adapter plate.
@dandahermitseals5582 8 ай бұрын
What do your batteries weigh?? Thanks Dandahermit
@scottkahre9206 8 ай бұрын
About 400 lbs total. The Volt batteries are not the most energy dense, but the price was right. . .
@ericdenis8760 9 ай бұрын
Really nice work! I will definitely look into this option when my motor dies. I really like that you have recycled so many things to make it!
@jemmykosasih5467 Жыл бұрын
Top speed 50 mph ?
@paulbaker3144 Жыл бұрын
You saved $1300 not buying a adapter plate for the transmission as you deleted the transmission altogether. Also got rid of some weight. And created more space for the batteries because the motor is further back under the vehicle. I like it and am shopping for a donor vehicle.
@paulmeyer9161 Жыл бұрын
Great work. Working doing a EV Samurai. Do you have any pics of the mating of motor to transfer case.
@nicholasbrown982 Жыл бұрын
Hello sir please how much would it cost me for you to convert my 2009 Range Rover sport into an electric vehicle?
@AhmedHassan-yw5uk Жыл бұрын
Hi is there any Video about the conversion processes The user motor
@fidelisoriere6984 Жыл бұрын
What is the voltage of hyper 9
@scottkahre9206 Жыл бұрын
There are two versions of the Hyper9 system: 100V nominal, and 144V nominal. I'm using the 100V nominal system, which actually has a maximum input voltage of 132V. I charge my battery system to about 121V, and can pull down to about 110V if using all the capacity. Hope that answers your question . . .
@matt889 Жыл бұрын
Awesome video! Love it! I will be making my own EV Sidekick or Vitara sometime soon, for now I have a 1993 1.5L gas one :) Love your project!
@ChilledSon Жыл бұрын
That's a shame! Found it funny you mentioned the voltmeter was on daughter's lap when it went up in smoke, then immediately switched to how much of a shame 15$ meter is kaputt. 😂
@matthewwalker7024 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the update. Sorry about the roasted parts, but i enjoyed the content.
@downtownshark 2 жыл бұрын
Could I hire you on a retainer for consulting purposes. Like an attorney?
@scottkahre9206 Жыл бұрын
Mark, we may be able to work something out, but we need to message privately about it. Do you use LinkedIn? I think I am the only one with my name on there, so you could send me a connection request on LinkedIn. Then we can message privately . . .
@downtownshark Жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 I contacted you via LinkedIn ...
@kenhart2516 2 жыл бұрын
Nice thanks for sharing, I have thought of similar modification maybe a for pickup like the Eluminator. Probably a market for these conversions
@downtownshark 2 жыл бұрын
Could I pay you for consultation services in 15 minute increments?
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Hi Mark, Not sure if your comment is tongue-in-cheek or not, but if you happen to be serious, please go to my website (www.castlemtntech.com) and use the "Contact Us" link to send me a private message. That way, we don't have to share any contact info. on KZbin's public comment forums. FYI, the website is pretty far out-of-date, but it covers my engineering consulting business that, ironically, has nothing to do with EVs. In any case, thanks for the comment! Scott
@rickm7209 2 жыл бұрын
The only issue to using variable regen to slow the car would be how and when to warn cars behind you that you are slowing down. Should the brake light come on as you apply regen, or at 40% (S mode) or full regen (H mode).? Great video. Thanks.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Rick, The Hyper9 IS controller actually has an output for brake lights that can be activated on Regen. I was going to connect it until I realized that it's not simply a 12V source that goes hot. It's actually a ground signal that closes when regen occurs, which would have required another relay and some creative wiring to get the brake lights to activate. I eventually decided not to mess with it, figuring that my regen settings would be similar to strong compression braking (think exhaust brake on an unloaded diesel pickup). There's lots of that on the road these days, so I don't feel too bad . . . Scott
@rickm7209 2 жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 Good to know. In another video (Netgain Hyper9 motor set up), Steve comments about using pin 18 on the 32 pin K1 plug on the X1 controller (when he is talking about setting up the software to handle the 3 regen profiles) "...I used pin K1-18 as digital input...use a relay because the 12v ground is not the same as the car ground." Exactly what you are saying about using a separate relay. I am hoping to install the MO Unit Moto Gadget to handle all fuse/relay issues.
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
I may have asked this before... Is this the 100v Hyper9 motor or the HV version? Thinking 100v What is the gross weight of your Sidekick? You must be approaching 3000lbs. Thanks Scott, I'm about 2 weeks from rolling!
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Christopher, Yes, this is the nominal 100V version, although it's actually good to something like 132V, if I remember correctly. And, I think my rig's dry weight is around 3,200 lbs. It started out around 2,900, and I think I added about 200 - 300 lb overall with the conversion. Not sure about gross wt., since I don't know what the payload rating is on these little rigs. Glad to hear that yours is coming along! Scott
@LeonTroutskiunplugged 2 жыл бұрын
Great series of videos, Stumbled on these last night and binge watched. I have a 95 tracker that just lost a head gasket, so a timely find. ($10 fan belt .... and a wonky temp gauge.) Much appreciated.
@matthewwalker7024 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks again for posting. I hope the move works out for you.
@ChilledSon 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for making this!!! I am working on an 95 Tracker EV build. I am in the North so I am still at the bodywork stage 🙄🙄
@Simon_Rafferty 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for posting this, it gave me just enough info to figure out how to implement variable regen, but without the display.
@carperdiem8754 2 жыл бұрын
I would love to do this to my 2 dr 1989 Sidekick
@anands6127 2 жыл бұрын
Need to appreciate your honest review.As many people tell the advantages only,you described it's problem also.Really useful for diy projects
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
What are the specs of your volt pack? 120v and how many full AH and useable. Thanks. I'll be at 116.8v (32s lifepo4 pack) @ 230ah. I've love to see 70 miles of range.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Hi Christopher, Sorry for the long delay. Have you checked out my range discussion video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4WvgYJpiq2nirs I think it will answer your questions about the battery pack specs. Based on your numbers, I calculate a nominal capacity of 27 kWh. Depending on how much of that is useable and how hard you push the pack, I'd guess you would see 50-60 miles of realistic range with a Sidekick (not sure if that's what you're working on). Good luck! Scott
@rp9674 2 жыл бұрын
Low rolling resistance EV tires?
@rp9674 2 жыл бұрын
About time!
@llooe8532 2 жыл бұрын
How much was the total cost of ev conversion.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
I didn’t keep track of the exact cost, but it’s in the neighborhood of $12k all-in.
@downtownshark 2 жыл бұрын
What kind of motor did you use?
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
It's a Netgain Hyper9. There's quite a bit of discussion about it in my other videos - check them out if you're interested. Scott
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
Are you using K1-35, K1-22 and K1-12 for your brake pot?
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
I don't remember the pinout numbers, but I just used the exact same terminals that were labeled as intended for use on a brake pressure transducer. The 0-5V Pot. works exactly the same way - the controller doesn't know the difference. One slight change I did need to make, though, was to disable "brake priority" (I think that's what the setting was called). It was enabled by default, and it would have prevented the throttle signal from going above zero any time the regen pot. was reading above zero. It's intended to prevent you from "hot-braking" - using throttle and brake at the same time. However, since I leave my regen setting turned up while driving, I had to disable that feature, so now if I hit the throttle, it cuts off regen, i.e. "throttle priority". Scott
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 Great thanks for the reply. I've contacted Netgain with no response. I am trying to use that brake pot dial over connecting to my brake pedel, as I'll use one pedal driving for most situations. I need to also use the clutch switch, but there in no information on that. When the clutch is pressed, regen is diabled so the syncros don't get messed up when shifting due to no freewheeling. Thanks again.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Could you simply wire the clutch to disconnect (or ground) the regen signal wire? So, it thinks you set regen. back to zero as long as the clutch is depressed? Not sure if yours already has a switch on the clutch pedal - mine did because it had Cruise Control from the factory . . . Scott
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 I do have a switch bc this 86' Toyota Van actually had cruise control. I don't have a regen wire (purple), but do have the white/blue clutch wire. Thanks
@peterduxbury927 2 жыл бұрын
If you set the Road Wheel Diameter to 85mm in the software, your ESH Display will show true main Motor RPM. I already have a Speedometer on the car, and thought that the Motor RPM would become more useful, on the Display. Also, for your adjustable Regen, did you take the Foot Brake Transducer wiring - straight to your variable Potentiometer?
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Hi again, Peter. That's a great idea on the display calibration - without doing the math, am I correct that you actually get RPM/100? And, yes, I simply connected the 5V source and signal wires directly to the potentiometer instead of a brake pressure transducer. Scott
@peterduxbury927 2 жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 Hi Scott, You are probably correct in your thoughts that it would be RPM/100. I read this piece of information on an EV Blog Website some years ago, and the figure of 85mm remained stuck in my head. I have exactly the same set-up as you, on a '71 Beetle.
@peterduxbury927 2 жыл бұрын
Hi Scott, I have the Netgain Hyper 9 IS and the AC-X1 Controller. A huge problem is that the Controller sees the amount of Regen 'as a threat, and raises AL 44 very frequently. This should not happen at all, and experts who carry-out these EV Conversions have actually turned the Regen Value to zero, in the software, especially on the Brake Pedal Transducer. There is a video where Moggy and Jehu Garcia are discussing this. Apparently, some AC-X1 Controllers (from new) are fine, with no instances of Alarm 44 being raised - each time that you hit the Brake Pedal. On my software, even though the Regen has been turned really low, this problem exists and no amount of internal software settings will remove AL 44. Moggy and Jehu Garcia have raised this issue, and claim that (on some new Controllers), there are internal faults (from the manufacturer SME) that are the root cause of these problems. Did you have any such issues, I am curious to know? The last thing you need, when your brakes are being assisted by Regen, is for your Regen to completely fail at random. I have been forced to disable the Regen (on the footbrake) for safety reasons. Have any others reading this - had similar issues to me? My car is a 1971 EV Beetle Super Bug.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Hi Peter, That's unnerving to hear that some folks are having trouble with regen, as the flexibility of Regen programming on the AC-X1 was one of the major selling points for me on the whole Hyper9 IS package. To answer your question, thankfully I have NOT had this alarm at all. I have been using my potentiometer knob set at 8/12 lately, so I know it's pushing some pretty serious regen current when I decel. from highway speed. The only issue I've ever seen with regen is that for the first deceleration after starting up the controller (usually in my driveway or a parking lot), the regen torque cycles (on/off, on/off), creating sort of a "jerky" feel. As soon as I use throttle again, the next deceleration and all subsequent ones during the drive are smooth. I've chalked it up to a minor bug that I can live with. It doesn't throw any error codes or alarms. Perhaps others can comment on your issue . . . Scott
@peterduxbury927 2 жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 What Battery Pack and voltage are you using? I have a similar issue with 'jerking' at low speeds. But the reason may be plenty of "Backlash" in your transmission, where it seems to overdrive, and then hold back - in a quick pattern. I have lots of 'play' in the transaxle, which amounts to about 40mm free movement on the outside of the wheel.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
I'm using some re-arranged Chevy Volt batteries in 30S - 4P configuration. This gives me a nominal pack voltage of 120V. I'm sure the regen "switching" issue is in the controller, not the drivetrain, as it only does it on the first regen after start-up. Any subsequent regens at any speed are smooth. But, you're correct that any drivetrain "slack" will be amplified by an electric motor's ability to switch from positive to negative torque VERY quickly. I do see this sometimes when hitting the throttle while strong regen is in progress. I get a "bang" out of the transfer case and/or differential. A newer vehicle with less wear on the gears/bearings probably wouldn't be as bad . . . Scott
@adambuckingham8489 2 жыл бұрын
Same exact thing happens with my electric jeep with this same system.
@peterduxbury927 2 жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 Hi Scott, sorry for the lengthy delay in my writing about your "Glitch" in the software that causes the on/off on/off drive issue. Well. I got some news for you, but my observations are slightly different..... The "jerk" only happens when I have (just) completed a Battery Charge to full (100%). At the first press on the Accelerator Pedal, the car goes into "jerk mode". And it certainly isn't doing your transmission any favors! And yet, when I can get the car moving smoothly, I burn-off just 1% of the battery capacity, and the car runs fine - just like yours. Finally, I would like to add, that the next time that the "jerking" affects your EV, please look down at your display. You will see AL 25 going on/off - in perfect time with your jerky EV. Hope this helps.
@jedics1 2 жыл бұрын
After seeing what you did Its hard not to think this should have been implemented as a standard option, perhaps with a sensor on the brake that increased the regen the further you push the brake with its max regen being just before your actual brake engages. It would encourage people to get the most out of the feature and put the most back into the battery and probably not have to change your brake pads for two decades.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, what you describe is exactly what the OEMs are doing on most new EVs. I thought about something like that, but it would've required me to completely re-design the brake pedal assembly to get a "split pedal" so regen. would be in full force before friction brakes engaged at all. But, in the end, simplicity won out . . .
@peterduxbury927 Жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 I have (finally) got my Regen fixed, where it doesn't go into alarm 44. My technician managed to overcome this issue. Thinking about your Potentiometer Idea, (which is great BTW), your Foot brake must (surely) still have a set value for your braking - as a 'failsafe'. I was thinking that you do not want to (accidentally) move the position of the Potentiometer knob, only to find that your braking has been compromised. I still have an issue where the car jerks backwards and forwards when charged to 100 %, and AL 25 shows-up on the display. I am sure that EV Builders will also like your idea, and also capitalise on this. Greetings from Australia.
@tonybrown3453 2 жыл бұрын
Hi Scott, thank you for sharing your conversion details and experiences. We have two '98 Sidekick Sports with over 200k miles on each, they're great mountain cars! The J18 engines originally in these are pretty incredible for power or fuel economy depending on the angle of your right foot. But when an engine gives out, we'll do a similar conversion. FWIW the Sport models are not really a trim package but a different vehicle than the Sidekick, wider frame, different engine, hydraulic clutch, bigger wheels... a pre-Vitara model. Keep us posted on your electric 4 wheel drive journey!
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your comment, Tony. I knew about the Sport engine being different, and had heard rumors about some chassis differences as well. I never had both side-by-side to compare, so it's good to know!
@downtownshark 2 жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 I am going to do this conversion with my GEO Tracker. When you remove the gas engine, do you need to remove the transmission as well?
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
@@downtownshark Hi Mark, I actually pulled the entire engine, transmission, and transfer case as one unit when I did mine. However, it was pretty tough to get it out that way - I was using my tractor bucket with pallet forks as an engine hoist in my driveway. If you're building it as mostly an on-road car, deleting the transmission entirely can be a good option (as I did), but if you're planning to use it off-road a lot, I'd try to retain the transmission to give you lower gears. But, in any case, you'll want to pull it out so you can work with it easily while you adapt the motor to it. Scott
@leonflackett7397 2 жыл бұрын
Great conversion! I am thinking of getting a Suzuki samurai and doing a similar conversion 👍🏽
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
What is the total weight of your vehicle. I'll be approaching 3500 (4500 gross from manufacturer) and many have told me that the Hyper9 isn't meant for something that heavy. Thanks. Glad I ran across your channel.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
I haven't weighed it, but I think it's sitting right around 3,200 lbs based on the original published curb weight and what I removed vs. what I added. The Hyper9 does fine with it with two caveats: 1) If you delete the transmission, don't expect it to jump off the line in high range (no gear reduction besides the axles), and 2) If you will be climbing long hills or running high speeds in warm weather, consider a liquid cooling system for the controller. Scott
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 Good to hear and glad to know. I am retaining the 5 speed, but not involving the clutch for ease of install... on a budget. I'll get the cooler plate while I am filling up my cart at Netgain. Phase 1 (96v @ 200ah) will be around 300 and Phase 2 is double that range. What kind of + amperage do you get with regen? +5% of what you used to get up the hill? I enjoy your videos because of the like scale of your diy and mine. Thanks again.
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
@@beazkneez I don't have exact numbers for the amount of power returned during regen - I've never datalogged a good comparison of up vs. down the same hill, same speed, etc. However, I can say that based on the negative DC Bus amperage I've hit during deceleration compared to the positive amps during acceleration, I'd say it's closer to 25 - 40% energy recovery. But, I think it's more efficient at higher motor RPM (think decel. on the highway) - negative amps are pretty low when crawling downhill. In any case, I try not to think of regen. as a range extender, but more as a drive-ability aid and brake pad preserver.
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
Oh I love this. I thought about using my clutch to to disengage regen so I can shift (clutchless). I like this to run inline so I can vary for my hilly area. Thanks!
@beazkneez 2 жыл бұрын
This would also be great with traffic. I hate my wife Honda Fit and the CVT, it just coasts FOREVER unless you're in sport (ha, sport)
@dochemmi2465 2 жыл бұрын
Heated seats are much more efficient for keeping you warm in the winter. Worth looking into if you haven't already!
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I actually bought a cheap 12V heating pad that plugs into the cig. lighter outlet. However, it ended up in my wife's car pretty quick, so I didn't really get to test it out in the Suzuki! Since we park it in the garage and most trips are short, I usually just dress warmly . . .
@jefvdb7290 2 жыл бұрын
Do you think this could work with a rotating potentiometer with 0-5v output signal? In order to get a continuous variable regenerating force without 'fixed' positions?
@scottkahre9206 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, that's exactly what I thought I was buying when I got the 12-position knob. When it showed up I was a little surprised to find that it had discrete positions. But they are spaced close enough together that it works pretty well that way, and I can also easily set it back to the same as a previous setting. So, it worked out in the end.
@peterduxbury927 Жыл бұрын
@@scottkahre9206 Hi Scott, When in Regen, I did have the Brake Lights connected, and there is provision for this in the Software. But this created another issue. Every time that you took your foot off the gas, and the Netgain Motor went into Regen, the brake lights became illuminated. As an example, when going down a long hill, (foot off the gas), your Brake Lights remained constantly illuminated. This did not work for me, and it was later disconnected
@shawncell1247 2 жыл бұрын
my charger over heated and burned out because it got hot in the car with windows up . hope you don't have the same problem
@shawncell1247 2 жыл бұрын
cool car. thank you for the video .
@michaelfriedrich7540 2 жыл бұрын
There’s a bloke in Australia that has had one converted for around 4 years now. Neat conversion but trees won’t recharge it lol
@shawncell1247 2 жыл бұрын
You need to hook up the cooling plates in the battery's strongly recommended
@shawncell1247 2 жыл бұрын
there new motor is way more efficient then my ac 35 , at 40 hp ,but with a 5 speed manual its way more fun 35 miles at 73 mph beat that . use the transmission to stay in the torque peek
@shawncell1247 2 жыл бұрын
put it in the grill with computer fans on heat sink before you have a junk controller . don't cont on the self limiting . i have a 2010 Wheego whip i know been running at 125 volts use there cooling system it will turn on and off as needed
@shawncell1247 2 жыл бұрын
thanks for the video ,