Easily. It's high enough to not be in the way. For me, it's above eye level and is only 1 ft deep from the wall so we'll away from my face.

@Dean-In-Milwaukee thank you for your reply! I'm definitely using your idea.

It's just 2 standard 10 ft straps hooked together to make a 20 footer.

It should. The frames are made the same on all aliners, the only difference would be you would need more fabric because it's bigger

@@Dean-In-Milwaukee 😲Yes, of course you are correct! But, more fabric means more weight on the steel conduit and maybe more chance of bending. Do you think a lighter fabric could be used? What size pop-rivets did you use?

@captaincurt3180 a lighter fabric could be used, not sure anymore on the rivet size. You could also go up a size on the conduit. Other than being slightly more expensive there would be no downside to that.

Just generic ratcheting ones from Harbor freight, I think they're 10 or 12 ft long. I bought them years ago.

@hillaryedwards1246 The facing is all there is, fairly thin material perhaps 1/8th inch. The back side of the rivet is visible from the inside.

@ oh ok. I guess my concern was causing rivet holes to leak but I suppose they rivet fairly tight

@@hillaryedwards1246 definitely no leaks. The rivets are extremely tight.

Yes, that is correct. A problem can occur because there is only so many hitch heights available and you may not be able to make it perfectly level. In these cases, pick the one that has the trailer nose a bit low instead of a bit high.

My rav4 hybrids GCWR per the owners manual is 6670 lbs. Even being pessimistic on all weights it's unlikely I'm over 6000 total lbs or 90% of that.

@@Dean-In-Milwaukee Do you drive a 2023 RAV4 Prime? According to Toyota, the 2024 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid can tow up to 1,750 pounds when properly equipped [in earlier models it was 1500 lbs.]. This towing capacity can handle smaller items like moving trailers, personal watercraft, ATVs, and small campers. If you're looking for more towing capability, the Toyota RAV4 Prime offers a maximum towing capacity of 3,500 pounds when properly equipped. Towing an Aliner Ranger with a RAV4 Prime sounds reasonable. > Towing capacity : 2023 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid 1,750 lbs. 2023 Toyota RAV4 Prime 1,500 to 3,500 lbs. I have a 2022 Tacoma with a factory towing package that tows over 6,500 pounds, but I own a RAV4, as well, and no RAV4 model (other than the Prime) has a capacity to safely tow a loaded Aliner Ranger safely in all road and weather conditions, in my opinion. I like my RAV4 Hybrid transmission in full working order, so I will tow my Aliner Ranger 12 with my Tacoma. By the way, I completely agree with you about using the cruise control on steep grades as much as possible. It's all I use on most grades and my brakes are at 90% pad thickness even after towing our Ranger 12 over 35,000 miles, much of it in the mountains of the west and southwest. I just wish the cruise control in my Tacoma worked in 3rd gear, as well, because if the grades get steeper than about 8%, then I need to downshift and the cruise control doesn't work anymore. The steepest grade I encountered was 16%, both up and down, and then I had to use first and second gear. Cruise control is no help then, but I love it when it works. 👍 Happy Trails!

Mine is a standard hybrid, not the prime. My owners manual says 1750 lbs towing and 6670 lbs for total gcwr weight. I am under both ratings by 10 or more %.

@@Dean-In-Milwaukee if the trailer weighs 1400, and the vehicle is fully loaded with people, gear, fuel, and such, I would bet you a soda it’s over 1800. I’m not trying to be a troll. I promise. Just want you, and others to be safe.

​@@Dean-In-Milwaukee I have done a ton of reading about and asking others about towing and tow vehicles. A liberal estimate of towing capacity suggests that the weight of the towed vehicle AND the additional personnel and cargo weight in the tow vehicle should not exceed two-thirds of the rated capacity of the tow vehicle. A more conservative, and frankly more common, recommendation is that the weight being towed and that being hauled in the tow vehicle should not exceed one half of the towing capacity of the tow vehicle. I have never heard or read an experienced person recommend to others that they should tow a trailer within 10% of the towing capacity of ANY tow vehicle -- until I read your post. The reasons for these more common recommendations I referred to stem from two things: (1) Manufacturer towing capacity figures tend to be quite generous.[Consider MPG ratings in this context.] (2) It is important to consider towing capacity in light of the WORST possible towing conditions rather than the best -- bad roads, severe bumps, high winds and wind gusts, heavy rain, and emergency maneuvers and stops, etc. Is it possible to tow an Aliner Ranger with a RAV4 Hybrid? Yes, indeed. I have done so. When I first got our camper, I had to get it home from a dealer 80 miles away from where I lived. I was able to tow it home with our 2020 RAV4 Hybrid on a clear, sunny, windless day on Highway 41 in Wisconsin. I drove 55 mph the whole trip. Everything went fine. I encountered not so much as a bump, a pothole or a gust of wind. However, when I spoke to my service representative at our Toyota dealer, he nearly turned white when I asked whether I could tow our Aliner on a long trip out west with our RAV4. It turns out that he, Patrick, had years of experience with trailers of various types and sizes. He said, "Absolutely not. You CAN do it, but you should NOT even think about doing it. It is just not safe and you could damage your car. I mean, you can do whatever you want, but I sure wouldn't do it." I had never intended to use our RAV4 for towing an Aliner, because our original intention was to get a much smaller and lighter teardrop trailer to replace our car top tent. Hence the trailer hitch on the RAV4. Once we decided to get an Aliner, however, we then determined to get a vehicle with more towing and cargo capacity, and 4-wheel drive, so I sold my cherry old 1995 Chevy 1500 W/T and bought our Tacoma. I have never regretted getting the Tacoma or having more than three times the towing/hauling capacity I needed (on paper) to meet our towing needs. Frankly, a good number of times I have been damned lucky I had a vehicle that could safely and securely tow an Aliner Ranger 12 in severe or unexpected situations. I wish you all the best with your Ranger and your RAV4, but please at least CONSIDER being a bit more conservative with respect to towing capacity. In any case, you do you, and enjoy!. 👍 Regards, respects, and best wishes...and Happy Trails!

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpKTdIBpgpJrmK8

That's a good idea too. Same net result.

No screws, pop rivets. No leaks.

@@Dean-In-Milwaukee So you just drill a small hole then pop rivet through the aluminum, but not anything underneath?

@Tazdeviloo7 the rivets are aluminum like the frame they're going through, so no corrosion issues. They are also very tight so no leaks.

One of the things I like about Aliners is how easy they are to work on. Have confidence. If you make this awning you will be about the 8th or 9th person to do so that I'm aware of. All have been successful. You will be too.

They are also wearing like iron. I did a video, but doing measurements and extrapolation they are likely to last 50k miles.

I made it. The video was to show how so others could copy if the wished.

Thanks, I really like it. My only complaint is the steering. Definitely not a hands off bars bike. Steering is pretty nervous.

@VE8HL yes, very even. They don't have any noticeable wear indicators at all. In my likely use, they more likely age out than wear out.

I personally suspect the dormers are causing most of the difference. They not only add height, but aren't smooth between them as air slides over the top. Honestly, a fun experiment might be putting something on to bridge between the dormers. I would try cardboard duct taped on, and if it works figure out something more permanent.

@@Dean-In-Milwaukee Cool idea.

Point taken. I already know the speedo reads about 1 mph high, but on my next fill up I will manually check mpg and see how close it is.

I took your advice and did a manual calculation tonight. The car said 555.3 miles and 47.8 mpg. I topped up as always and was able to squeeze in 11.008 gallons. That calcs to 50.445 mpg, or about 2.5 better than the computer thought.

@@Dean-In-Milwaukee Great results. A bit surprising that you beat computer. So far I only heard of calculations 1-3 MPG lower than car thinks. You are lucky :)

I'm glad I checked. I was a bit surprised it wasn't closer, but it does explain why the gas gauge wasn't lower. At 555 miles, it's still at 1/3rd full, which makes sense now knowing there's still 3.5 gallons left out of 14.5.

Do you have alcohol in gas in your area? If so what is the percentage?

I've got a prime as well and a classic with hard dormers.

If the edge of your roof is aluminum like a aliner then yes

It appears to be aluminum at the roof line and aluminum bolted through a steel piano hinge along the 2 bottom sides. I may use a stainless steel bolt with nylon lock nuts for the entire project just to ensure the metals are compatible, easier to replace and secure. Thanks for the quick feedback!

Not usually over 70 as gas mileage starts to drop off fast. It is nice to know the tires can take higher speeds without risk. The fastest I've towed was 77, but that was briefly as I was passing. No trailer wag at all.

I personally retorqued after the first trip after the new tires were put on. I found they were still properly tight, so left them alone since.

@@Dean-In-Milwaukee Thank you for answering it's good to know.

Who's the ALiner guy?

I'm not following. Who?

I retorque every 6 months after repacking the bearings - this is another task that should be performed to keep your wheels running cool

Sorry no, the video mentions what's used . It's all really common electrical parts available everywhere.

Mines been reliable so far. Other than being really dirty when I bought my ranger 10, I've not had to pay it any attention. They are pretty efficient. Even on high it drew less than 3 amps, low was barely 1 amp.

No overlap, just butted against. This has worked well in the rain. A secondary benefit of not being attached to the roof is in strong winds air can blow through the gap taking some of the stress off the awning.

@@Dean-In-Milwaukee thanks! One more question. I've been looking into Ottertex material and there's a lot out there. Do you know if what you used was polyester with a PVC backing? And do you recall the thickness?

@dfudge007ca not exactly sure any more, but it is a heavy canvas feeling material on one side and shiny plastic on the other. It feels just like the commercial awnings we've had, and weighs a fair bit, probably 2+ pounds, and let's zero light through.

I made this a while ago, but I think it was 5 yards of 5 ft wide Ottertex material.

Thx!!

I used rebar. I found some precut 4 ft long pieces at Menards. I slathered some epoxy on it and slid it in till it was right in the middle. I only put it in the middle one as it's taking most of the stress. So far so good, no damage from winds.

That can work well, but I've read about people getting overheating damage to their bubble windows doing it this way. The heat enters, but then is trapped by the refectix, causing the temp to climb much higher than it normally would. Having a sun shield on the outside stops any heat from hitting the bubble window directly, keeping it much cooler.

Sorry, I don't do that. Except for the fabric, all the parts are from home depot, and it's designed to be easy to build, 2 or 3 out of 10 on difficulty.

They are just items I designed and made on my 3d printer. The plugs purpose is to prevent fingers being scratched on the pole ends. You could cover them with tape for the same purpose. The washer is nothing special, It was cheaper to print than to buy, so I did.

Mine is the most comfortable bike I've ever ridden.

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