That's false, all my engines (even a stock rebuild) I deleted the balance shafts and daily driven DSMs for years even as we speak. What you're claiming is a bit ridiculous and I never in my 21 years of playing with these cars have I ever heard such a thing. The number #1 killer of oil pumps going bad with a BS delete is over tightening timing tension will wipe out the front case and pump.

@@turbotom20g I’ve heard many say. Don’t crucify me yet lol. it sounds logical why there needed but I suppose you’ve done without them so seems like I’ll take your word it. I had to delete both balance shafts because my bearings broke off so it had no choice because it scarred the surface with the new bearings wouldn’t seat right anymore. We’ll see how long it lasts that way. I did notice way more lighter faster revs especially with the act aluminum lightweight flywheel. And 6 puck act racing heavy duty clutch kit responding so fast 💨

Not many use this method because the stubby shaft from the mirage doesn't have a whole in the oil galley and even though the hole on the back side of the shaft is blocked, inside the shaft will fill up with oil which you might use adequate oil pressure to the oil pump shaft. The second reason and part of the reason why I don't do the same is the mirage stubby shaft is a filled solid shaft vs a modified hollow shaft with a hole down the center of the shaft. If the modified stubby shaft ever would to fail, it would be a catastrophic damage and be very costly. Have people done it with no problem, yes but the correct stubby shaft cost $30 vs $3000 for a new rebuild. Also be careful if you buy one from eBay, because the shaft would be completely straight with no oil galley and you definitely need that oil galley in the shaft or you will have premature wear and damage. Hope my pointers help out.

Still running. I did end up using jb weld on the 35mm plug I put in the front case.

Definitely should work regardless of what transmission the engine is mated to. Mine is a 4g62b, very similar to a 4g63 sohc but just a bit lower in displacement. I have had it's balance shaft done the way it's shown here and not have any problem at all. The only thing not good about doing this is the added vibration you will experience after deleting the balance shafts.

Yes just change motor mounts for the gy6 engine

It helps if you have the 150cc frame that the motor came off of. Then you just cut the bracket that holds the motor mount off the 150cc frame and weld it to the 50cc frame. Also make sure to tack weld it first to make sure you have the alignment right so you don't have to grind an entire weld off when you realize the rear wheel is not sitting straight up and down.

F Hapy did you have to cut the seat out at all. or did yours go right in

You have to stretch the rear when swapping out the 50cc for the 150cc.

I actually just sold it.

You will need to cut the old mount off of the scooter that you take the 150cc motor from and weld it onto the 50cc frame you are going to be using. A 150cc GY6 motor is mounted from the top of the engine while a 50cc GY6 motor is mounted from the front bottom corner.