So it works, now have some fun......it will print some things quite well but you have to play with it......not meant for serious printing but you can get many kiddy play things that kids love to mess with like medallions and other things .......the area is quite large for such a small printer and I've seen many other much larger printers that have only ever printed small toy things.

I'd like to know about attaching a usb...

brou available to help

Would have been great if you took 5 mins to go away and learn what that last gap fill button did. Then you’d have a full tutorial.

you took the wire frame out when adding the plywood?what size plywood is that in depth 24" or exact 22.25"? also is that .25" or 1/2" thick? i also have this same shelf. i noticed people put individual sheets vs one whole sheet but i dont understand why? thanks in advance!

Hi how do i find the bed level function on the printer or console is it 12 or 24 point ?

The cover plate on one of my a1s hits the bed makes annoying sound. Do you know where I can replace

Do i need to install anything to be able to print multi color? I have the same brand and style as you

Very helpful one question does the purge block have to print? my first multi color model the purge block printed also. Anyway to not have that print?

Coming from the hacker community I chose the MK4S kit over the Bambu Lab XC1. Completed the build last night. I now know the machine inside out. No regrets. It's a beast :)

With the new DJ Program Twitch doesn't save past streams anymore. Is there a way to still export the streams to KZbin after being live?

tnx 🥰🥰

Boy that is not neatly held together in any way

Your video saved my printer. I have a K1C and after 2 weeks of printing on it, the first layer of my prints was simply looking awful. When I went to check the leveling of the bed, it was almost 1mm off. The front of the bed was too high and the back was too low. I opened the bottom and had an unpleasant surprise. Creality's quality control left some cables a little loose and they were touching the belt. Some of them even had their insulation eaten away. I fixed the cables and the bed level and now the printer is perfect.

Thanks a lot! It thought I got an error because of this 404 message...

I just put a new spool and feed it manually for a few seconds to take up the difference

If you want to do two separate pieces that are separate colors (i.e Part A black part B white) is it best to just do two separate prints to avoid as much purging and purge blocks?

Thank you for making this short! Appreciate it!

Do you recommend these same settings if you're printing at .20mm?

I've got an issue with my k1c where it's ignoring the slicer speed setting. No matter what, it does whatever 100% means on the menu, i emailed support, and they said there were solutions on youtube, which i have yet to find. I am using up to date orca slicer

Really helpful, thanks!

Indeed what a waste... you can print the whole nothing with that leftover.

thanks

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My friend, please set your camera to manual focus

How do you transfer the content from the camera to your computer fast? Mine takes days literally download content 😌 and it takes forever to upload on KZbin 😢😢?? Help

Thank you

I was SO frustrated and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't print anything, then saw the part where you said you turned up the "power" percentage - that was my breakthrough! I had to turn it all the way up to 100 and also turn the speed down for my project but it worked beautifully! Thanks for posting, you don't know how helpful this video was for me!

Seems like Bambu is like iphones - everyone says that they have features that existed on other printers before

i love my A1 ❤

I don't know what's going on with mine cause I done everything right but my video isn't showing up after I've exported it over to KZbin

i just bought it and its absolute and total dog shit

Thank you for sharing, i've been pulling my hair out trying to get nice clean break-away tree supports. Do you happen to have updated settings for Orca Slicer 2.1.1 ? Thanks!

PLA CF might seem nice, and it is when it comes to the matte finish, although it is very weak with practically no advantage over PLA , and the abrasive properties of it can wear down your ams over time for no gain. If you like the finish, I reccomend PLA matte, if you want stronger prints use PLA+ or PETG, both are stronger than most PLA CFs. (If you want a really tough filament use PA6-CF, where the properties of CF are really useful)

The best drying filament inside whichever designed container requires air to absorb water inside the filament. This is done by heating the air & filament to make the air more attracting. This condition mostly occurs on the outermost filament winding and especially the unwrapped portion. The optimum designed dryer would have heated air circling the filament with cool plate. The cool plate would condense the vapor to water and drain it. This device would be cost prohibited and, in some filament types, unnecessary, even harmful (too brittle). The best filament storge is sealing it in a container while still warm. Include dry packs and vacuumed with a humidity measuring device or strip.

Filament drying experiment. Place a spool of filament in a theoretical air sealed box along with a thermometer & hygrometer at room temperature. Now, heat the air/filament to 150 deg F. Read the hygrometer. Now, let the filament cool down to room temperature without opening the box. See the hygrometer reading return to similar room temp humidity? The RH went down when heated and returned when cooled. Any loss of water in the air is due to it now being more in the filament. Run the save experiment with dry packs instead of filament, and the air RH should be lower because the packs are designed to hold more water than air. Same goes for types of filament holding more water than other's.

Drying filament is about relative humidity within a given space. Relative humidity is about temperature. The higher the temperature, the more humidity air can hold and vice versa. Air conditioners control humidity by lowering air temperature which lowers the amount of actual humidity the air can hold. A/C's condense the air's above 100% humidity... as does a glass of cold beverage. Heated air can hold more humidity than room air, which is how we dry our clothes. Now, what would happen if you turned the clothes dryer on and left the door wide open (I mean, besides clothes falling out)? It takes longer to dry your clothes, right? Well, putting a gap in a filament dryer's lid has the same effect as well as making the heater work harder to heat the new air/humidity coming in while the heated air leaves.

Huh? Sorry, but I have to say to anyone watching this channel's suggestions about drying filament ... follow the mfg instructions. Don't follow this channels advice. I'll explain the effects of "dryer" volume by asking to run an experiment. You'll need a plastic bag, 2 paper towels and a room. Wet the 2 paper towels under a faucet until soaked. Squeeze out excess water and place 1 towel into the plastic bag. Close the bag. Leave the 2nd paper towel next to it on a dinner plate. Check both paper towels for wetness in 3 hours. You are likely to find the towel inside the bag is wetter. Both were drying in equal air temps, showing that a larger volume enclosure could hold more water vapor. Room relativity changed little while the bag's relative humidity soared. Maybe to 99% RH.

Why Isn't this standard?

So frustrating. i plugged my mouse and keyboard into the monitor. plugged in my laptop to type c, DP is connected to PC. set the KVM wizard up. it works perfect with the laptop, but the damn mouse and KB wont work with the PC.

I tried this. Supports are COMPLETELY fused to the part and cannot be removed.... there goes a 26 hour print.

0:38 - The Amazon knife...still kicking?

thats cool that you have an etsy store

Nice, love it!

Ankermake M5C no levening

I just tried to set mines up and all it does is beep giving a shit down due to possible overheating I checked the voltage I’m at 115v I’m grounded directly into wall

My benchy won't stick to the bed any tips

I have a p1p and the Prusa mk3s+ and even though the p1p is far faster I still prefer the mk3 the reliability it just unmatched in my opinion.

You can do a stencil to do this letters work bettter and faster. Just add a square or use Corel Draw to make a perfect shape

My Discord opens even with this setting off and with it turned off in the Windows start up menu. Had issues with it continuously updating on start up, then loading on start up, not can't get it to stop opening on start up. Discord acting more like Malware these days.