U1218 :81 how do I find what this is I have like 13 of these faults. Today I have broken down. Car sounds horrible like air box so loud and car is restricted, rev the engine and it sounds very rattly. Lucky to get 15mph. Only fault is that but I don’t no what that is 🤯

What’s that you are using to connect into relay plug???

Good video this 👍

Very useful video , can you tell us what's the name of the tool you use to send 12v to the relay ? The red one with the button in the middle ? Thank you 🙏

Hi guys , I have the same problem Ford Custom 2.2 love it , but hard starting when getting hot , been in the garage 1 week . Test Injectors Test Fuel Pump , Relay fuses Still the same problem , I have been told to change the high pressure pump No idea what to do 😢

thanks for sharing superb diagnosis

Thank you for your video it’s was really really helpful I was stock in the mountains Switzerland didn’t know what to do until I saw your video..❤

Hi! Excellent job! May I ask you which pin of the relay did you connect to batterie + to start? Sorry, I didn't understand because I'm no native english speaker. Thx!

Where do you get your wiring diagrams?

If you have a soldering iron it's worth trying to fix the switch yourself. Remove the switch and open, it's only clipped together. On the PCB there are 4 little cube shaped light sensitive switches with a slot in them, one side is a LED light source, the other is a light sensor, when selecting different gears a piece of plastic moves between the slots either allowing or blocking the light beam. It is likely that the solder on one of the four corners of one or more of these switches has cracked and needs to be re-melter or re-soldered. You can probably work out which sensor is at fault by moving the black plastic bit up and down as the lever would. I would thoroughly recommend solder containing lead as the most common reason for this type of failure in the first place is lead free solder being used in manufacture! The fault should clear the second time you switch the ignition on.

Hello,I am having this problem now. How do I get it fixed

Hello! Can you please tell me how the adblue level is calculated on this model? Is there a sensor somewhere? I have my tank fullfilled after a 700 KM message, but even after 300km since the tank refilled, the message still doesn't dissapear, the count still goes down and show less kilometers. No other error, and the car communicates with the module, i tested the injector unit, the pump, all test where succesfull. The only problem is level, but I don't know how is it calculated or measured. Thank you!

Hi, great video. I have exactly the same problem. Pal, What was the final bit resolve it?

My car is c220d 2016 on kick down that code pops up and goes into limp mode what do you think it is mate i put cheap fuel in the car once like an idiot and the car wouldnt start got all the old diesel took out put fresh diesel in the car started up but now everytime kick down the car goes into limp mode mate please help if you can

Have 2012 ds3 1.6hdi with U1218 and got no fuel supply to injectors. What topdon is it please.

Hi, I have a trafic 2017 bi turbo with "DTCC59E87" Adblue Dosing Module Computer, missing message on code reader. I am being told Renault can only resolve? Do you have any advice? Thanks

Should I replace the sensor and it will fix the problem?

What is the model name of UNI-T multimeter?

Hey could you help with a similar issue, 2010 Insignia elite, moved off one morning and straight away the ABS/ESP lights come one. The code is coming back as C0040-0F right front wheel speed sensor erratic. Without having access to live data i thought id go for cheapest option and changed the abs sensor but fault reoccurs. What is the chance of this being a faulty wheel bearing? this car has no reluctor ring. Ps can you confirm, when it says right front, is that right as you sit in the drivers seat or right as you look from the front of the car. Thankyou

Hey, I'm just wondering, if the adblue is mapped out would the van still have this issue? Did you have to reset the adblue somehow before allowing you to start since the mileage counter got to 0.

I have a 2018 Vivaro 81k with exactly the same problem funny how these cables all corrode at the same mileage, remember the diesel con.

What pins did you use for the wire

Great work 👍 are there common places where the wite corrodes/breaks down?

Hi sir cud you put a link to get a wringing diagram please

Wow by a stroke of luck ive just found this video...I have a 2020 Citroen Relay, I've noticed that the wing mirrors were replaced in the paperwork history a while ago, probably after market. My outside temperature gauge doesnt seem to be working, & the engine fan seems to be working a lot at high speeds which seems a bit lould, cuts out though when I gnition is turned off, coolant levels etc are fine..is it possible that this might be my problem.? Many thanks for posting.

What is the name of the red device that you started a car with??

Love. Your. Videos. 🎉❤🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉

Very usefull video. Thanks 😎😎😎

Hi mate, are you based locally in Liverpool? My 2011 Citroen C4 had a Gearbox Fault warning message yesterday, it wouldn’t select reverse, just moved forward, when I turned the engine off, it wouldn’t start again with my foot on the brake as usual. I tried several times, then it started and I drove home. I really need my car and I’m worried this will happen again. Would you be willing to check if it’s the actuator or some other fault? I’m near St Helen’s in Whiston. Thanks mate 👍🏼

I have the same problem, what was the solution? -Jarle

Awesome idea, i do a lot of Mercedes work and doing this at the can bus star connector would be incredibly useful

wow. This technique is very cool. First time I seen that. what current clamp are you using, also what is the maximum point(how far)that you can be away from the module to pick up the current signal? And my last question, I couldn't understand, what you was saying on the video, how much was the current on the laptop screen. I subscribed immediately.

Brilliant idea. Really inspiring me.

Glad to find ya great video AC

So simple I like that idea thanks for sharing sir I will be using this in the future I can see the benefits (for me any how)👍👍🤠

You should have shown where the wire was faulty

Thank you so much for posting this video with the main theme being helping others. It is awesome to see the topics we discuss and the applications shared being used at the coal face to help diagnose problems in the real world. Thank you again as these videos can take ages especially when you are filming, narrating and using the equipment all at the same time

Very clever idea. So, as you show, the current clamp tells you when the packet is coming from the module you are next to. In your video, you were getting pull-downs even when the module you were next to was NOT talking, so you knew that module wasn’t causing the problem. You’d keep doing that, ticking off as good, all those modules that don’t cause the pull down. Eventually, you’ll come to the module that shows the pull-down every time it talks, and the pull-down never occurs when the module is silent. At that point, you know you’ve found the dodgy module. Correct? Very clever use of the current clamp. Am I right in thinking you were lucky that plugging your breakout box into the DLC allowed you to see ALL the CAN traffic, because with some CAN topologies, where a gateway is involved, you cannot see all the CAN traffic from the DLC, in which case you’d need to access each module (or pierce the CAN wires) to pick up CAN High and CAN Low at the module? Have you used the clamp in a similar ingenious way anywhere else other than on CAN networks?

Absolutely first class work great work around using the multi meter as a lay over 👍👍👍👍👍👍

I’ve a fiat punto grande with headlights permanently on even when switched off. Runs battery flat as sometimes stay on when ignition not on too.

YOUR VIDEOS ARE GREAT ,, WHY AREN'T YOU MAKING MORE VIDEOS . I WOULD WATCH THEM ALL AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME !!!!

LOVE SEEING THE USE OF THE SENSOR SIMULATOR ,, HOPE TO SEE MANY MORE VIDEOS FROM YOU THANKS FOR YOUR TIME !!!!!!!!!!

WOULD OF LOVED TO HEAR YOU A BIT BETTER ,,, MAY BE NEXT TIME THANKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great video thank you,was it a wire or relay in the end?

nice one ,cheers

Great job from us. Subscribed! 👍

Is it suction valve issue..?

I’m sorry but I’m confused. If the module that has the drop out has current it’s the bad module. But you have drop outs in the scope from other modules?Wouldn’t one of those still have current if you were clamped in? Please explain if I’m seeing it incorrectly. Ps i love this new approach. Just need to fully understand it. Thank you

I have this exact same problem, sensor is missing and I have an error code for it. Can you remember what the resistance rating was in the decade box and which 2 pins in the 4 pin plug you connected to? I just want to connect a resistor across it as a temporary fix till I can get hold of the thermistor sensor . If I can fool it into thinking its +10 rather than -40 that'll do for now. I have some aircon and general running issues and as this is the only fault code I havn't cleared I'm hoping this will sort it.

Vauxhall. Citroën. Renault etc all suffer the same wire corrosion problems.