So Jonesey, a good video presentation but your machining of the indexer sides doesn't guarantee they are parallel to the spindle bore.

Those Manfrotto Magic Arms are wonderful for holding cameras and the knob version is better than its predecessor - it had an over centre handle that was tricky to tighten up after a few months of use. Your new handle is a great improvement - well done Jonesey!

I did a spline shaft in the same way. A lot of people don't realize that if they turn their lathe cutting tool 90 degrees in it's holder, they have a shaper, as the old school scraping machine was called. I laid out the pattern by taking the female part and tapping it on the end of the aluminum blank and that put the dented pattern onto the shaft I needed. I then aligned my tool on a low RPM speed setting, but obviously not under power, to stop it from turning, while taking a scraping pass along the length of the shaft.

Guys... No offense to anyone, but.. that Imperial units.. are bloody mess. I'm struggling to begin to understand how is it at any capacity convenient.

Lovely job 👍

Just one comment. A mechanical edge finder can get closer vertically to the vice jaws (if needs be), or a feature on the part.

Just curious, but what's a "lathe file"?

puka

Love it is the least i can say for this fantastic tutorial❤❤❤❤

I do them on my shaper

Thanks!

Very good video mate, just looking at one and this is very helpful 👍🏻

What is alley you minnie yum?

Works well! and at least as it’s brass if it’s going to damage anything it’s likely to be you new nuts rather than the old screw. Electronic Lead Screw is definitely the way to go IMO. I recently did it to my old Myford ML7 and it’s an absolute game changer. Can highly recommend Rockettronics kits in Germany. Turns its into a cycle lathe so now I can do fully automatic threading as well as a ton of other functions like tapers. Means I never need to put the compound back on so can use the solid tool post for everything even cones. (did a short vid on my page if you’re interested)

If i wanted to do a pitch of 1.5 would the lathe speed be 900?

So you have an horizontal band saw, indexing tool, a DRO, a fine quality lathe...but the push-in knurling tool was too much to buy...? The part is beautiful, btw.

Great build...glad I found this video...been scratching my head for a bit trying to come up with a solution...including clamping some sort of rig into the vise ... this seems to be a lot sturdier than my plan lol

Just ordered my kit 👍thanks for an excellent video.

“Got a bit greedy with that last cut” the lament of machinists everywhere…😂

I want to order one!

Half turn forward and quarter back and use parrafin or similar as a lube. Use a "T" handle chuck type wrench. Works for me past 52 years.

Hi Jonesy, hey just curious if you ever did a metal veraion of this? I'm very interested in your design, but something that is more consistent than the 3-D printed version and keeps the graduations dead on.

Classic demonstration of the versatility of a full range of change gears over the gearbox where the gearbox manufacturer chooses what your options are. The reality is most people happily trade versatility for convenience with limitations, and never attempt anything outside the "usual".

Great work and video. Really enjoyed these Hemingway kit videos

Great video mate good to know what to look for

First time i have seen a youtuber break a tap, makes me feel better , thought it was only me that broke them

Hi, enjoying your vids on the Warco, recently become the owner of.GH-1323, and I’m trying to cut some imperial threads, 5/16 bsf, not knowing the history of the machine, so sure if I’m doing something wrong, I’m having difficult moving the lever to select the “L” position on the second to bottom set of levers, the seem stuck, however the bottom set seem fine, do you have any advice? Thanks Martyn Cheeky I know, but could you make a vid on setting the lathe up from scratch re imperial threads and all the right lever/dial settings. TIA Martyn👍

Following page 9:30 The parting accident was caused by excessive flex in the system. So where? Given your machine didn’t exhibit flex before, I think it came between the round and the jaws. Normally the parting tool dig under the center line by system flex but this time the round rose up also causing the digging. And the smoking gun is right at page 9:44

Perimeters, especially when having to modify holes afterwards for a perfect fit, make the most difference in terms of rigidity and also in having enough material left after modifications. Cubic or adaptibe cubic appear to be the most rigid infill as well.

Stumbled across this video, but really enjoyed it.

Why not just use the scissor knurl tool and push with it. Not perfect but a lot quicker

7:45 Can't watch someone parting off anymore without thinking "Aaaaand yatsie!"

A recommendation to add even more accuracy to your mill/dro. - forget about this type of edge finder (wont even work in plastic/pom qne such) but, get a 3D taster ect s Tschorn SAVEplus. 100% (almost😅) better repeatability and accuracy. Will work in every material and show actual movement and not rely on when you see/hear something and stop the movement. Best regards 🙂

A hacksaw, like every other cutting tool has a cutting speed. It is about 60 stroke a minute, it also has teeth all the way along the blade and they should all be used when cutting. You will find it goes in the metal straighter with a cleaner cut. You should also lube aluminium with paraffin and avoid using steel cutting tools because aluminium welds itself to steel. Much better to use TCT. Other than a teach yourself approach it is a item I will probably make and I have rotary tables and plates. It would make life easier.

really really great video ! i appreciate it.

Inheritance machining made his own 😯

The static edge finder model (electric contact) is hopelessly sensitive to spindle imperfection, not the dynamic model. The dynamic method gives us the edge with respect to the dynamic axis thereby avoided the accumulated error down stream of the spindle axis. The only set back to the dynamic method is - do we have patient to wait for the nose to indicate an edge? I have the ball model but I all my tool holder are imperfect on eccentricity. I tried the probe model ($99) with user recalibration screws on four sided. It enables me to calibrate out my tool holder eccentricity. That create a new problem. The last calibration is a paired calibration may be perfect but next time we insert it back to the same holder to run edge finding again the last (spin angle) registration has gone. The eccentric error adds up to doubled. Do we expect to run another calibration? NO. So I revert back to factory calibration means: a V block and calibrate it with a dial indicator. Then I store it into a box with a label on top that says “ box of shame”. The dynamic method will give us same edge-spindle offset time after time and holder after holder wrt the dynamic spindle axis so I can casually pick any imperfect holder, insert it at any rotation angle and to expect perfect and consistent offset value.

Just watched a guy on KZbin using one of these and doing a review and he broke it straight away by trying to bend 3mm, the cast iron cracked, but it did actually show up poor grade cast iron full of little black bubbles, so yes not the very best quality tool.

Popular Giveaway/comp. Great comunity of fans in the comments. All round great channel , liked and subscribed.🙏👍✌️

Did you put your makers mark/logo on it afterwards? Now having watched all your other vids its just feels like it needs that final touch to look totally 😎 Thanks for your work, I learnt a lot from it 🙏👍✌️

Awesome vid bud 🙏👍✌️

Great video art mate, it make for therapeutic veiwing . Informative too. Whos your director of photography, their good. 👍

Great video and well filmed too. The vice stop is cool, look really useful, did you design it your self ?

No chance of finding a suitable tap?

When fixing hex stock in the mill vise, it is much better practice to clamp across the flats, rather than clamping on the corners as shown here. This is because when clamped on the corners, any disturbance of the part (eg cutting forces) will reduce the dimension of the area held by the vise jaws, and hence make it come loose. This is both very dangerous, and a good way to ruin the part. If clamped across flats, you are instead clamped already on the smallest dimension, and it cannot come loose.

When fixing hex stock in the mill vise, it is much better practice to clamp across the flats, rather than clamping on the corners as shown here. This is because when clamped on the corners, any disturbance of the part (eg cutting forces) will reduce the dimension of the area held by the vise jaws, and hence make it come loose. This is both very dangerous, and a good way to ruin the part. If clamped across flats, you are instead clamped already on the smallest dimension, and it cannot come loose.

Nice work I have Rocketronics on my lathe best thing I ever did , I can cut any thread metric or imperial, both internal and external, tapers both internal and external even elliptical plus lots more.

If I need to cut an unusual thread such as this one, I will use my CNC mill to thread mill it. The digital leadscrew for your lathe sounds like a cool project. I just picked up a second 9" South Bend lathe, but it is missing all of the change gears. This could be a perfect excuse to make a digital leadscrew.

Grandios 👍 👍 👍

The first batch of grooves... I wonder if an indexing head on a shaper could have made short work of those???