My room basically never drops below 19 degrees, and usually stays around 22-26 during the day depending on the time of the year. The vivariums get a tiny bit of spill heat from the lighting (and they also contain some slightly cooler, more humid micro climates in them). 16 degrees seems unusually cold unless you're keeping them in a basement or something. I generally think heating the room is better than heating the individual tank, both because the temperature will be less prone to fluctuations and because you won't get as much condensation on the glass as you would if the outside of the tank is colder than the inside. That said, if you just have to raise it a few degrees, you can use a heat pad or something (but make sure it doesn't overheat; a little too cold is better than a little too hot)

@Tropical_Tutorials Thank you for your reply 👍 We heat the house with a fuel oil stove. It is only turned on when we are at home of course so the temp fluctuates quiet a bit. Heating were I live has become very expensive so we are getting solar panels and heat pumps to get a better solid temp in the house at the moment now so hopefully this will give the vivarium a better climate because this is holding me back to start a vivarium.

@@heatherwilliams3160 i either use Euro Style tanks or Exo terras

@@nathanmoros9207 Hygrolon is my favorite. I tank more about how and why I use it in part 4 of my series Vivarium Rebirth. I do also like cork panels though, which I showcase in “How to Set Up a Dart Frog Vivarium”. Never use coco fiber carpet! It breaks down very quickly and it also has weird water transporting properties that make it tough for many plants to grow on it

@@Tropical_Tutorials Thank you - checking out those other videos

You're totally right. This is an old video, worded quite poorly, and I'm planning to remake it in the near future, but what I usually say (and I said something like that in this video too) is that you should avoid substrate mixes that consist of large portions of sphagnum moss (and/or coco fiber). A bit of it mixed into your substrate can be fine, and it releases some nutrients when it starts breaking down, but if you use a substrate that consists of 50% sphagnum and/or coco fiber, it probably won't be too successful.

I ended up doing 4 mm thick glass. Always use float glass, not tempered glass (which shatters into a thousand pieces if it breaks)

Yeah, I used to primarily keep tarantulas before I switched over to dart frogs in 2019. This channel used to be called Tarantula Nest and only consist of tarantula feeding compilations lol

All the cups are plastic, I've never used glass cups. However, I recently started cleaning them out and washing them, since single-use plastic cups are being banned in the EU. It's quite easy to just scoop out the goo and clean the cup with warm water and dish soap.

Don't think I'd mix species in such a small tank. I'd consider it in a 18x18x36 or preferably a 24x18x36 or bigger. Not saying it'd be impossible but I definitely wouldn't recommend going smaller, especially if you're new to the hobby, for a mixed tank.

@@Tropical_Tutorials Thank you so much! This is great info and I'll definitely wait for a larger tank to mix species!

It sounds reasonable in a large vivarium. However, I recently kept a holdback leucomelas female with my breeding group of Ranitomeya variabilis (I probably incorrectly call them amazonica in this video, but since 2022 the populations from French Guiana and eastern Brazil belong to variabilis) for about 6 months or so. During that time, I got no viable eggs at all from the variabilis, as they were presumably eaten or destroyed by the leucomelas female (they are notorious egg eaters, which seems to expand to different species eggs as well). I even found some remains of eggs that had been destroyed. As soon as I removed and sold the leucomelas about 2 months ago, I started getting clutches again. I don't think I'll try this combination again for this reason.

@ Thanks for your reply. I already have a couple of auratus and still learning from them. My terrarium is 90x45x45 cm… pretty big for this 2 little fellows but I don’t want to take a step until I am sure and more skilled with them. Thanks again!

Jag kör mina i 30x30x30 typ första halvåret som jag visar mot slutet av videon. I början kan det räcka med ännu mindre, exempelvis när de är helt nyuppstigna räcker en godislåda eller liknande första veckan, och de kan bo ganska tätbefolkat som små, men sen tycker jag att man behöver mer plats åt dem (minst ca 30-kub de första 6-9 månaderna och sedan gärna större)

In the hobby we don’t really worry too much about inbreeding and I know several breeders who’ve raised many generations from the same group without any issues. That said, you should probably not push the boundaries, so trying to get unrelated frogs is always good

If so what size tank

I definitely don't recommend it. I have a whole video about mixing species (focusing mostly on keeping different dart frogs together, but also touching on the subject of mixing dart frogs with lizards etc.), and in that video, you'll find several reasons this combination will most likely not be that successful. The main problems are the vastly different temperature requirements of the dart frogs vs the green anole (this requires a massive vivarium to provide enough space for each species in each temperature range) and the predation risk (many tree frogs, unlike dart frogs, can eat very large prey items compared to their own body size, and the anoles can also be problematic depending on what dart frog you go for). In general, mixing is never recommended to beginners, and a good rule of thumb is that "if you have to ask, you do not have the experience necessary to try to mix species safely". The only animals out of those that I would condone mixing during normal circumstances (though a REALLY experienced expert keeper might be able to attempt some other combinations) are the dart frogs with the mourning geckos. Two species in a tank is more than enough and more than that is usually not a good idea. However, even then, the choice of dart frog species is crucial to get right (avoid thumbnail frogs, as they can get hurt by the geckos, and large Phyllobates species, as they can eat the geckos), but Dendrobates species always tend to do well with mourning geckos. I wouldn't keep mourning geckos with dart frogs in anything smaller than 24x18x24'', and for any other cohabs (which you really shouldn't attempt as a beginner), I'd like something far larger.

thanks bro

It varies a bit, and it all goes in waves. If you don't want to listen to it all the time, the key is to not have too many males. Epipedobates anthonyi are probably the most frequent callers (if you have a few males, you'll usually hear them several times per day, each time they keep going for maybe 10-25 minutes), leucomelas and vittatus are a bit less frequent but they'll still have "happy days" from time to time where they will call a lot, but then they can shut up for a week sometimes. Normally, I think the call is very nice and the amount of it is pretty tolerable, but right now, I have about 12 anthonyi males (since I haven't sold the froglets from this year yet, and they have started calling now at around 6 months old) which i think is a bit much once they start calling in the mornings

I honestly have no idea what you just wrote, but sure!

It would most likely be doable. However, I think you'd have a lot more fun getting a group of one morph, so you can raise a few tadpoles from time to time. I personally think keeping a group of one species and getting them to live out their best lives and start breeding (even though you don't have to raise many tadpoles; most hobbyists only raise maybe 5-10 from each species every year) is far more rewarding than just keeping a single frog of every color

I have no idea how this is relevant to the video, but that’s awesome

Very unlikely that you'll come across the same product (Semper Fruit Porridge) that I use, since it's only available in Scandinavia as far as I know, so you'll probably have to find a different recipe. However, the other tips and tricks that I showed are probably useful

Thank you for the kind words

@@Dubo-wabo I have a whole video dedicated to this topic. Generally, mixing species (or different locales of the same species) is never recommended to beginners, and a good rule of thumb is that if you have to ask about it, you probably shouldn’t attempt it, but in my video about mixing species, I get into the nuances more since there are cases where it can work

@@Tropical_Tutorials Fantastic, thank you. I've been wanting to get more into frogs like Darts and Tigerlegs and Giant Waxy Monkeys.

That is a name I’ve heard before when I’ve tried to ask what species it is. I’m not 100% convinced but it seems reasonable

@@tjorben4563 I’ve once bought a hieroglyphica from bens jungle, but received a fenestralis instead. Keep an eye out on bens jungle though, they sometimes have it in stock and usually they sent the right plant

Unfortunately, the answer is definitely no to both of those questions

@@Tropical_Tutorials they just get devoured? Tank over run with them? Or is it a mold issue?

Nearly every single dart frog in the hobby is captive bred and has been for generations. In my country, Sweden, keeping any wild caught vertebrates as pets is completely illegal (I think we're only allowed to keep third generation captive breds and onwards or something like that). Given that dart frogs (at least all of the beginner friendly ones featured in this video) are very easy to breed in captivity, this has created a massive market of captive bred animals among hobbyists. This market completely outcompetes any smugglers or other frivolous actors on the scene, since there's absolutely no point in getting a wild caught Dendrobates tinctorius Azureus when there are literally thousands upon thousands of captive bred ones on the market in a healthier condition for a much cheaper price. Unless you're the first to introduce a new species to the hobby, or have a species that's very pricy and difficult to breed in large numbers (such as Oophagas), there's little to no monetary gain from selling wild caught frogs. The only case I immediately think of when wild caught frogs are sold in large quantities is Oophaga pumilio Blue Jeans imported and sold extremely cheaply in pet stores in the US (it's something I've heard a lot of people talk about, but I am by no means a trustworthy source when it comes to the US pet trade as I live across the pond), where most of them are sold to random people who don't know what they're doing. This is not something I support. Of course every frog has been taken into the hobby at some point, and that process obviously includes taking them from the wild. There are cases where this has been done ethically and unethically. It is very possible, in many cases, to collect animals without it taking a toll on the population as a whole, and there are of course plenty of legal imports. The hobby as a whole is very negative towards animals with a questionable or illegal background (there are certain morphs and species where this is the case) and generally takes a strong stance against them, even though there will unfortunately always be a black market for these species. Nowadays, many of the imported frogs (once again, the only ones that are really imported are Oophagas that are hard to breed, and they are usually bought by experienced people with the goal of breeding and further distributing them in the hobby) come from places like Tesoros de Colombia or Wikiri, which are breeding the animals themselves on-site in Colombia and Ecuador respectively, and they are certainly not threatening the wild populations (quite the opposite). Many of these frogs are also threatened by other things than collection for the pet trade. Take for example Ranitomeya fantastica True Nominal. Like many localities, its range of distribution is extremely small, and its habitat will likely be entirely destroyed in the near future, likely causing it to go extinct. In a case like that, I think it's better to have thousands of frogs in the hobby and zero in the wild than to have zero in the hobby and zero in the wild. Once again, the small number of frogs collected for the pet trade (which have then been continually bred in large numbers) is by no means responsible for the population possibly going extinct. For this specific locale, there are conservation efforts, but that's certainly not the case for all the hundreds of locales in the hobby. Unfortunately, animals bred by hobbyists could most likely never be used to replant a wild population due to the risk of spreading diseases, but having them in the hobby is certainly better than having them extinct and entirely gone from the planet.

Ein interessantes Projekt ist "Tesorros de Columbia". Die züchten unter anderem Pfeilgiftfrösche um Nachzuchten von selten Arten billiger als Wildfänge zu machen. Zur bedrohungslage bei Pfeilgiftfröschen kann man keine generelle Aussage machen. manche Arten sind Kulturfolger und profitieren von Menschen, andere Arten haben nur sehr kleine Verbeitungsgebiete und besondere Anforderungen, bei den meisten Arten ist die datenlage unklar. Generell ist zur Zeit der Chytridpilz die größte Bedrohung für Amphibien, die einzige Lösung die es da aktuell gibt ist Tiere in Gefangenschaft zu züchten um sie anschließend entweder gegen den Pilz zu imunisieren oder die Lebensräume wieder herzustellen und die Frösche neu anzusiedeln.

@@Pewpro The waiting times have been shorter than ever during the second half of this summer, but it’s about to start getting a lot longer again now unfortunately :)