@@VictorRodriguez-z8k any time. 😁

@@VictorRodriguez-z8k I'll try and do that this weekend.

@@keganE621 thank you. I've had them for several years now. I got them online, but don't remember exactly where. When I got the., I think they were in the $120. Range. They're wayyyy more expensive now.

@almagam2099 I cant find any aftermarket parts for this truck, i bought my 87 with a cracked exhaust manifold and a blown out down pipe, i couldnt find any aftermarket engine parts other than the webber you talked about in the video carb and an air intake manifold turbo kit, these crate engines are 2k cheaper than i thought they'd be

@keganE621 i also got a magnaflow muffler installed. Did have a magnaflow catalytic converter. But had it removed cause it's insides fell apart.

@@jimmyfrmdownundr here's a link to one of the videos that has the engine relay diagram. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eaOVcoqeiqeYo5Ysi=960RMWSQUPPoEpLA

@@paulharnad777 i thought about doing the same thing. But thought, with my luck, I'll probably mess it up. So I thought it best too just install a new switch. 😅

@@noureddinasad262 ask away. I'll try my best too help.

@@TRiToN219 sorry. I do not have any. But I do go too the junkyards often. I'll keep an eye out for them for you.

Thanks! I can give you my email or something

@@spydurhank thank you 😊

@@josephzimmerman3384 yes. It was already there.

Thank you ​@@almagam2099

@@josephzimmerman3384 anytime

@@robbiemoore2201 is your d21 manual or automatic? Mine's manual, so I'm more familiar with that. But I did have an automatic 93 d21 for a little while.

@@almagam2099 v6 automatic

@@robbiemoore2201 k. On your steering column. There should be something like a notch. And on the ignition switch. There should be like a locking mechanism or button. "It looks and works like the locking mechanism on a door handle" It should be resting perfectly centered on the notch. I'd say remove your ignition switch and slowly reinstall it. But don't fully tighten it's two bolts. See if that helps.

@almagam2099 I appreciate it. Unfortunately the new bolts to fasten down the new switch were breakaway style. I'll attempt to back them out.

@@robbiemoore2201 they make it so difficult too work on our trucks. 😭😭😭

@@javajetson257 it was a local guy that runs his own shop in Kissimmee Florida. One of the local, bigger machine shops gave me his number cause the part was way too small for them. They only worked on bigger items. The local guy did smaller, scaled items. I thinkHe charged $100. For the adapter plate. But he did use high quality aluminum. I haven't had a single issue with the Weber since I installed that adapter plate.

@@Thatwhiteboyintheholla I've read up on this a bit on the d21 forum's. I'll try and find the exact page for you. But guy's have peeled back the harness for the injectors. I think the wiring splits off at certain points and then goes back too single wiring. I think they said that split off point becomes an issue 🤔

@@almagam2099 I’ve been through all my wiring on my passenger side I think it’s to my drive side now the wire to the switch cause it’ll be pulsing when the truck is off and turn it on it’ll quiet

@@javajetson257 think I got it on Amazon. But it's specific to the the tilt steering wheel column i installed from an 86 nissan pickup. Not the d21. Although...I still have the same brand that's specific to the d21 "it fits from at least years 86 to 93."

@@almagam2099 If you have the model number let me know. I found several on there that look similar to yours, but would rather get the right one rather than guess.

@@javajetson257 what year is your d21?

@@almagam2099 1986

@@figfiggy117 the switch on my d21 was a bit loose. So there was some loss of transmission fluid. Plus I had the truck raised quite a bit from the passenger side

@@almagam2099 ah, that makes sense. I just got the truck, it has a 3" lift on it and I was checking under it yesterday and noticed a small leak at the switch. I had no clue what it was because the cables were not on there but I did see the prongs. I looked it up and figured out it was the reverse light switch and bought a replacement. Since I can easily get under the truck I didn't think about jacking it up so I had to make it a quick in n out type of install. I appreciate your response!

@@figfiggy117 not a problem. Glad I could help

I might be wrong. But it could be the "meter backup lamp."

@@edruiz2863 -yes. It can be installed backwards. -I honestly don't know the answer too your second question. I've never tried that before.

I'm going to find out in a few lol. I bought a 89 from my boss that he was going to send to the scrapyard because he didn't want to spend more money on it. He replaced alot of new parts prior to the current condition it has. Witch is a bad idle. Can't find no vacuum leaks. And the fuel regulator has been replaced and still idles rough.. I just noticed that the cap was on the other way but not sure if that would affect anything. And also noticed the adjuster bolt is all the way to the left and not in the center like how you mention in the video.

So the cap couldn't go the other way. Bolts wouldn't line up the same.. so now I'm stumped because the cap isn't facing the right way but yet the distributor can't be put on wrong? I was going to flip that too and see lol. But if its only a one way insert then idk.

@@edruiz2863 ok. Most distributor caps should be labeled. There should be four mounting points for the intake side spark plug wires. And four mounting points for the exhaust side spark plug wires.. -I wonder if the cap was already in the correct orientation ?! 🤔 Try this.. -Have the cap te way it originally was. Along with the spark plug wires. -loosen the two bolts that hold the distributor down on the engine block. But not too much. Just loose enough that you can casually twist the distributor. -with engine running. Turn distributor till the top bolt is at the center of the bracket. See if that changes the idle. Turning the distributor too far one way will retard the time. "Slow the engine and idle." Turning the distributor the other way will advance the timing. "Speed up the engine's idle."

Yeah so i been trying to get some info at the shop where it's been worked on in the passed. Basically that motors been swapped with another one from a wrecking yard but they were told that it came out of a car ( witch i dont think there is any cars with a z24i).and it was automatic. (I have a 5 speed). So they said when they swapped in the motor everything went straightforward except the oil pump parts and distributor. The rod wouldn't reach.theyre not sure if it was because it was automatic or what. So they swapped out the old pump and distributor from the old motor in it but on the distributor side the adjuster didn't align correctly. So they just shaved the slider a bit longer until it idled good. But that was 3 years ago. And it has been worked on by several other people that they're not sure if somethings have been flipped or messed around with. Lol

@@jaceclark1769 you talking about the distributor?

@@almagam2099correct

When I changed out my distributor I didn’t line it back up and now I can’t get it to idle long at all

@@jaceclark1769 k. Several things too look for 1. If you pull your distributor completely out. Look at the end of the distributor shaft. It should have a specific pattern or shape. "On my d21, it's got a half moon shape." If you look down the hole where you insert the distributor. You should be able too see the end of the oil pump shaft. That's what the distributor shaft mates too. It should also have a specific pattern. "On my d21, it has the other portion of the half moon pattern." There's really only the one way to insert or mate the distributor and oil pump shafts together. 2. The distributor cap itself could be out 180 degrees. The screw holes might be lined up, but essentially, the cap might be upside down. This will cause spark plugs too fire in wrong order. 3. Spark Plug wires could be inserted in wrong order. This will also cause spark plugs too fire in wrong order.

@@almagam2099 I for sure have my distributor cap in the wrong way. I just can’t seem to figure out how to get it the correct way. I was messing with it trying to get it to work and now it won’t even fire up. I have the Nissan pickup aswell and the half moons. That part is all the way in and together

@@jessemendoza2991 I've turned the engine on several times since I installed the block off plates. But only for about 15 too 30 seconds at a time. But won't know for sure how well the plates hold up till I'm able too install the 350 and let the engine run for a while.

@@almagam2099 Thanks for the reply

Not sure if it'll effect full throttle. But will definitely effect how engine runs. Symptoms too look for: -engine stumbling or hesitating. -poor fuel milage. -no spark condition. -engine will crank but not start.

@@TEREK1 thank you.

@@konraddiaz7722 thank you. 😁

@@duqueTerceiraCasadeFériasnoPor I'll try and go over all the wiring after I get out of work today. Are you talking about the interior harness for ac components, the harness under the hood or both?

@@almagam2099 For both, on mine there's no harness I have to buy that too or make them...

@@duqueTerceiraCasadeFériasnoPor what year and trim is your d21?

@@almagam2099 I own a 93 wd21 pathfinder, maybe that's the difference... oh and it's european Dieasel version.... Seen the other video on the wiring also. Even the wiring for the switch and box behind the glove box to connect the smaller plug on the top is just not there. But I do have (I think that's it) the plug for the compressor... weird Thanks, man. Keep up the great work

The entire fuse block?

Rear wheel drive.

Thanks. I removed the dash several times before. And could never find the tach harness.

​@@almagam2099is there i guarantee it unless some one cut it off mine was the same without a tac and i found it there mixed in with one of the harnesses or behind the black part of the dash the only thing i made a mistake and got a v6 (my truck is a z24)

@@cesarpalafox7676 do you know how many pins the harness has?

@@almagam2099 not off the top of my head

Upload it here on KZbin.

Would you be able too upload a video of your setup? I'm only familiar with the manual transmission. But if I can see what you're working with...I can try and help.

Yeah. Ran it inside the cab. One end of ground to pcm bracket. And the other end of ground too body in cab. There should be a mounting point on the floor, directly too the right of the computer for the ground. But really, you can mount it anywhere inside the cab. There are several mounting points on the floor near the computer.

Thank you. I had realized that much, much later. 😅

Do you mean the fusible links or the harness itself? -The harness. For some area's, I just replaced the portions that were fried! "Like Battery cables, and a few of the connectors for the grounds and power wires." For the fusible links? Here's the website I got mine at. But I think they discontinued the green ones. www.nissanpartsdeal.com/page_product/searchbyname?Vin=&Make=Nissan&Model=Hardbody+Pickup+(D21)&Year=1986&Submodel=&Filter=()&Keywords=Fusible+links+

That yellow wire connect too a green connector called a diode. It piggybacks onto "if you look at video at startup" the grey harness connector that's directly underneath the power steering reservoir, bracket! The other end of that grey connector has "I think two thicker gauged White Wires with a Blue strip running down them. At least one of those White Wires with Blue strip feeds directly towards the fusebox. That Yellow wire " i think" is what let's alternator charge the battery.

@@almagam2099 Thank you so much for your help. I will try to locate it tomorrow!

@@rhoadsmatheson2246 let me know how it works out. I would've mentioned exactly what wire that yellow wire piggybacks onto to. But when I first got my d21. I used that cloth type electrical tape. Big mistake on my part. It's incredibly difficult too remove once it's applied.

The gauges and pod are from Glowshift . I've got a handful more of their gauges but haven't installed them yet. That I know of, they don't make pods for the d21. I had too trim a lot of the pod. Even so, there's still a lot of overhang from the pod. The pillars for the d21 are a bit on the thin side. Here's the link for their site: www.glowshiftdirect.com/

Installed gauges: -Oil pressure gauge, along with harness, adapter plate and sensor. "Stock sensor is still installed!" -RPM gauge, along with it's harness. -Water temperature gauge, along with it's harness, adapter plate and sensor. Gauges not installed: -speedometer gauge. -fuel level gauge. -voltage gauge. - I have at least one more gauge, but don't remember which one.

@@almagam2099 from what I can see in the video it looks like they are the maxtow series.

@@TinyHardware yeah, I think that's what they are.

The air intake came with the Weber carburetor kit I got for the d21.

Yeah. That's the hard part. Finding where the links lead. The newer, 90's d21's have more accessories than my base model ever would. That link could lead to something the truck doesn't need too run or it could lead too something a little more necessary.

Sorry. I know absolutely zero about diesel engines. But if the electrical aspect "harness design" is anything like gas engine d21's...I'll try and help. -use multimeter too check battery is good or is at 12 volts. If battery us good but the truck still has no power. -if your truck has them, check fusible links for power. If they don't show 12 volts...they're likely fried. All of mine fried at the same time. I just didn't know it. Took weeks of research and only being able too work on the truck on weekends. I finally learned about the fusible links. Once I installed new ones. Truck instantly had power too all components. If you replace the links but still have no power. Then the harness for each link might be the culprit. Large area's of harness on my d21 were in horrible condition. Was able too repair some area's. Other's I had too replace the wiring or connectors.

​@@almagam2099 From what I can tell, the wiring is close to the same with the exception of the second battery. I can't find the fuseable links required so I am thinking I may have to Frakenstein in a new one at this point. But yes, something sparked and the power died like a fuse blew. Now that I am learning more it makes total sense. 3 of mine are absolutely corroded, the 4th one was only throwing 7v. Thank you!

@@reddtraining OK. Look for the links near the battery. They should be on the inner passenger side fender wall

​@@almagam2099 Sorry, I meant they discontinued one of the fusible links from the website you suggested to someone else. 😅

@@reddtraining I'll try and find a site that sells them. If I find one, I'll post the link here.