Glad it does! Thanks for the feedback!

You can look at cable connections starting at around 4:22. It comes with a CAN cable to reconnect/chain the existing CAN connectors to the radio unit. For a joystick model (referred to as Remote Control in the manual), there is a specific DIP setting (see 4:40) in order for it to work correctly. This product supports both Carplay and Android Auto, and the following video is a followup with more about setup: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5KlnKNngseqf7csi=CMVZsMUh4W2Wcjoa

You are welcome! Glad you found it helpful!

Sure! Do you mean the compressor for your air suspension system? I assume it's not the A/C compressor that you are concerned with in the Winter. :) There aren't many videos on KZbin about that. I do have air suspension on my M Sport model and will find a chance to show how to work on them, though they are in good shape and I am in no need of replacement.

Thank you! Appreciate the feedback! I'm surprised too by how close the predictions were in the end. Can't ignore the data in front of us. :)

Yes, if it's a V6. It has a similar J35 engine using the oil switch with the same part number (37240-R70-A04).

Sure! After the initial setup/connection, your phone will reconnect when you start the car and it will automatically enter the Carplay/Android mode once connected. This works on both iPhones and Android devices.

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Yes, you know it's a specific cylinder problem if it's a p030# code (with the last digital indicating the misfiring cylinder number). A p0300 (or both) random misfires can be due to broader issues such as fuel / fuel delivery, air (vacuum leak), timing, worn engine components, etc. affecting all/any cylinders.

@profsg Thanks for the response. So I'm hearing that a p030# dtc referring to a specific cylinder is better than a p0300 dtc that suggests bigger problems than just a spark plug or ignition coil.

Yes, that's generally the case. Sometimes, though, that specific cylinder can have a major problem too. Start with simple fixes first. In your case, if it's a one-time problem, I'd check engine oil level/condition and fuel. The easiest is to change oil and switch to a better fuel, and see how it goes in the next 100 miles.

Glad you liked the video! Just to clarify, are you saying the P0302 DTC (Cylinder 2 misfire) did not return after clearing it and driving the car for a mile or longer? You may drive a bit more before making a conclusion. If the code hasn’t returned and the engine is running smoothly, it might have been a one-time issue, e.g. sometime due to the fuel you used. However, if the light comes back with the same code on cylinder #2 or you notice rough running, then something is going on with that cylinder. On Toyota's 2GR-FE engine, which has a 10-year or 120,000 miles spark plug replacement interval, it's about time to replace them for preventive maintenance, even if the problem doesn't persist.

@@profsg Thanks for the response. Yes to clarify the p0302 dtc (1st cylinder on front left side vs right / battery side) code did not return after clearing it so far in the few miles of driving I've done since clearing it. I'm hearing that the spark plugs even though they are rated for 120k miles, and even lexus dealership said I didn't really need to change them when I did coolant and transmission fluid changes at 60k miles, they should be changed due to them being 10 years old? The back / firewall side cylinders appear to be the ones that make the job less straight forward than it would be otherwise. Would you think that an ignition coil failure is likely at 10years / 62k miles or less likely than it being a spark plug? If the engine is seemingly running smooth in spite of the solid engine light and p0302 dtc code that was raised would experience suggest its most likely a spark plug or ignition coil rather than one of the more difficult to pinpoint and/or costly to repair issues?

A solid CEL with P0302 and a smooth engine is not a major concern, especially if the code hasn't come back after you cleared it. The recommended interval is whichever comes first (10 years or 120,000 miles) and for preventive, not that I have a concern of your sparks. I have a video on spark plug replacement on the later 2GR-FKS engine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aH2Tc5ptbaeFj8ksi=anqBE6R5DGt2CDT6, yours (2GR-FE) is a bit different but doable too. :) If you end up replacing one plug, do go ahead to replace all. OE ignition coils can last a long time, but if you replace spark plugs and grease/install coil packs at the recommended interval, you create a better condition for the longevity of the coil packs too, which are much more expensive than spark plugs and I'd go for OE if I were to replace them. All my vehicles (this Honda at 165,000 miles, a Lexus at 125,000 miles, and a BMW at 94,000 miles) are still on factory coil packs. Also for OE, no need to get them from the car makers, just find out who the manufacturer is and get that brand.

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It's the same generation of X3 with the same F25 chassis. They should follow the same bleeding procedure with the principle to start with the wheel furthest from the ABS (left rear) and work your way closer to it. In the video, I followed the procedure on the scan tool to go a full circle starting with the left rear but you can also do left rear, right rear, left front, and end with right front (closest to ABS). As for scanner options, there are budget friendly units like Launch Creader Elite for BMW at $130: amzn.to/3DzU1hO. But I may have found an even better deal by Kingbolen (same company), which I am currently reviewing and appears to have ABS bleeding, at an unbelievable $75 price: amzn.to/3BIVX7j. For either option, please do contact seller to confirm its support of ABS bleeding on your vehicle.

You are fine with 75W85 GL5 for both front and rear differentials. BMW's G1 and G2 fluids are equivalent of 75W85 (or 90?) GL4 and 75W85 GL5. GL5 has higher EP additive great for shock loads but bad for gearbox with synchromesh rings (it reacts with bronze/copper), which is not an issue with the differentials. Ultimately, API GL5 with an oil grade of either 75W85 or 75W90 is suitable for many recent BMW vehicles.

@@profsg greatly appreciate that. There isn't much mentioned online on using other branded oils apart from bmw which is about 3 times the price for a litre. I also got the transfer case oil from febi again which says has the bmw DTF1 spec

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Thank you, Reynaldo! The giveaway gifts will be on their way to you. Happy New Year!

Thanks for the kind words! You got it!

Good catch! It's an Exide battery, replaced before my purchase nearly 4 years ago. I don't think it's EFB though as this RX350 doesn't have the start stop feature.

It literally smells like a bad fart, and it only happens right after I have accelerated, but not all the time usually when I’m getting on the freeway. I thought it was the VCM, but I put a Musler in it and I fixed that problem but I still have the rotten egg smell. I also just had all three catalytic converters changed on my car which was an expensive job along with the four sensors two upstream and two downstream. I figured that would fix the problem, but it did not. I’m totally stumped

It's most likely fuel related for the rotten egg smell (sulfur). Oil burning (PCV and VCM related) can make it worse but it's a different type of burning smell. Now that the issue occurs during acceleration, it again points to a fuel-related problem, specifically a rich condition where excessive unburned fuel is entering the exhaust system. Given that you have replaced spark plugs, cat converters, and O2 sensors--assume they all good--have you cleaned/replaced MAF and checked potential intake air leak (engine air filter good)? Another likely culprit is fuel injectors and/or fuel pressure; if the seals are faulty/leaky, you can have a rich condition too. I'd start with a scanner to look at fuel trims to confirm a rich condition first.

Sounds great! Your Pilot will thank you, and you’ll enjoy the peace of mind!

Thank you so much for the kind words! Praise the Lord and have a Merry Christmas!

I just had to replace all three catalytic converters due to this problem, and I’ve been getting a rotten smell of burnt oil in the cab when I accelerate getting on the freeway. Hopefully this fix will resolve the problem.

Good idea to clean it! It's cost effective if the valve doesn't have other issues. Pay attention to the o-rings though--it's better not to have cleaner on them as they can become brittle and lose their seal.

@@profsg Yeah, I removed the o-rings before cleaning and then reinstalled them.

AMD is great, specialized in Toyota / Lexus! Thanks for stopping by!

If it has a dipstick, then it's another generation of transmission and should follow a different procedure. It makes sense to fill through the fill plug/hole and use the dipstick to check level. But it all depends on your make model and design generation, and the prescribed procedure.

@profsg mine is 120d xdrive zf

What is the year? If it's 2017, then it's a similar ZF 8HP transmission. Don't think it has transmission dipstick.

@@profsg it's bmw 120d msport xdrive 2017

Then it's indeed another ZF 8HP transmission and should follow a similar procedure as in the video.

Good catch! Didn't know we would be getting a BMW when making this video but now are loving our X3. It has been trouble free and easy (cheap) to maintain too: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bH64eYCYjKabZrcsi=BQ4xbrLPnIvpMS_Y

Glad the video helped! It's wise to disable/muzzle VCM for the good of the engine. Another concern with VCM is the engine mounts, usually with the front and rear mounts being active-controlled mounts designed for VCM. My Honda (in this video) recently failed safety inspection due to a torn engine side mount but I spent only $50 on the OE part to replace it to pass re-inspection. My front and rear mounts are still in good shape, thanks to the disabled VCM, but if they were to go bad, the parts and labor would be in the thousands. With a simple VCM muzzler mod, you will eliminate many headaches down the road.

@@profsg Yes, thanks for that. To my knowledge I haven't felt or heard anything up front regarding the mounts. Fingers crossed.

It's an interesting proposition! I do think you have a valid point but here are two things to consider. The number one is cost. If you are to hire someone, timing chain tensioner replacement is much more involved than changing spark plugs and the labor won't be cheap. In the U.S., I doubt any car owner would request this service until the chain starts to rattle. The second is about potential failure of related chain components and depends on the product year. Early production years of the third generation X3, for example, have problems with plastic timing chain guides. When replacing the guides, it makes sense to replace the tensioner as well while there. Similar to old-school timing belt replacement/service, when things are already taken apart, one should go ahead to replace other components that might fail down the road (e.g. tensioner, water pump). In this case, the tensioner replacement is usually recommended every 100,000 miles. As a DIY mechanic, I'd probably do it over 100,000 miles (perhaps 150,000 miles) on my BMW but won't recommend this as a regular maintenance item (with an interval) unless the specific model/production year has a common problem with the timing chain. Such a tensioner, just like the chain, is designed to last. If the part has a production problem, replacing it with an (updated) OE part should fix it once and for all.

I didn't have this issue but several in the audience reported engine noise. It's related to your audio ground wire, which may have been labeled as Audio-GRND (or GRN). This wire is normally connected to a metal piece on the car--which is in the end connected/grounded to engine where the noise comes from--but in this case should be disconnected. Good luck!

I suppose you've cleared the code and it came back? Assume it isn't due to fuel injectors or internal wear/damage in the cylinder #2 (e.g. stuck piston rings, valve seals), you may try new fuel and change oil before anything else. Disable VCM (simple steps in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGHFgGxpp5mMiacsi=3X87LFq85HxIUNb5) will help long term. But if none of these helps, you may consider a compression test (and/or injector test) on cylinder 2 to see whether there is internal damage or good seal in that cylinder for combustions. Good luck!

@profsg thank you sir for your time and response. My situation very weird cuz look what I already do: Pressure in cylinders ok, fuel, pressure ok, replaced was - injectors, sparks plugs, ignition wires and coils, crank sensor, EGR cleaning, fuel rail clean. What else can be ? In theory mechanic tell injectors wires can be something wrong? Or he tell O2 sensors? But OBD not show any problems with O2 sensors. P.S. on Gas-LPG everything works nice on all cylinders, no errors and no power lost , but on Benzine - petrol (usual standard fuel) P0302. So its mean in theory problem in fuel system. P.s. i replace Injectors and still same problem cylinder 2

Wow, this is a lot of work/care! Did you use all OE or OEM parts? It's quite puzzling indeed but two things came to mind. Are those misfires associated with VCM, i.e. during cylinder deactivation? VCM is the culprit to many problems including oil burning misfires and it's always beneficial to disable it. Second, did you look at wear and carbon buildup in cylinder 2 with a borescope/endoscope? Given LPG has no misfires, I suspect it is carbon buildup related, which VCM could have contributed to.

@@profsg thank you very much sir for your thoughts and recommendations and your knowledge sharing. I will try check everything what you say and recommend

@@profsg only I don't really know what is VCM :( I have ECM and ECU for sure but VCM not sure . P.S. car Mitsubishi Eclipse 3.0 V6

Glad you found it helpful! Keep checking back for more videos!

@ would you happen to know how many quarts of Toyota WS I should have on hand for a drain and fill? 2019 ES350 with the 8 speed. I was thinking about four quarts but am trying to find an answer online. Thanks!

@@linglingbraps good question! On my 2017 RX350 AWD, about 3 1/4 quarts (3.25 quarts) came out and I put in 3.5 quarts to begin with. I believe 2019 ES350 is FWD only and has a different transmission unit from Aisin, which, based on my reading (don't take my word though), has a smaller oil capacity and proportionally a smaller amount for a drain and fill. 4 quarts should be enough; in the worst case if it isn't, however, it won't be the end of the world if you have to put a little old fluid back to meet the required level. ;) Or purchase 6 quarts if you want to be 100% sure and the rest will go to the next change in 30,000 miles. Best luck!

@@profsg Thank you!!

You bet! The same gear oil is used for both according to the owner manual.

Yes. Overdue for any direct injection engine. Here's what happened to our Lexus: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aH2Tc5ptbaeFj8k

Yep. Next time you go to replace those plugs those connectors will snap off like uncooked spaghetti.

@@robertmaybeth3434 usually you expect that with aged plastics but surprisingly those on this X3 have held up beautifully. I've yet to break anything in this job and will see how they hold up in the next 60k miles.

@@profsg that's great... even so I'd still soak all theh connectors w silicone spray every so often, (unenergized of course) it might prevent them from getting brittle! I own a 2001 Solara V6 and a 2002 Camry V6. My Camry I've always used silicone grease and spray when I did the sprak plugs, I put silicone grease inside the coil where it touches the spark plug, and some on the electrical connector to the coils too. The ones on my 2001 Solara, that didn't have any silicone grease on there, all cracked and needed to be replaced. Silicone grease is life!

@@robertmaybeth3434 thanks for sharing! Sounds like a good idea! I've used rubber treatments like AT205, which is impressive, but haven't done anything on the plastics.

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You are welcome! Glad to help. Merry Christmas!

I feel you! It can be very frustrating in the middle of a job. Sometimes the best you can do is step away, take a break, and come back to it with a fresh mind or a new approach. There's always a way--just stay patient and don't let it derail your project.

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Thanks, glad the videos helped!

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Any time!

You're right, leave it running on the ramps while filling the transmission. Do not stop engine during the process. I understand your feeling as one should be extremely cautious when running through the gears. Your foot should be firm on the brake pedal so the car won't move.

Simple tasks like these are often overlooked, but these should be checked first.

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Thank you! Glad to hear it!